Friartuck

Bob Shafto, You don't mention which vehicle but nonetheless, may I suggest a simple remedy: Fresh Fuel. Fuel refined today seems to have a life of about 60-90 days. I too had a vapor lock incident using 5 month old fuel and when replaced with fresh gas, ran fine.

Also check the flapper seal on the bottom of the vacuum tank to ensure its sealing and not losing vacuum to the outsude vent, a common occurrence for vacuum tanks.

Instrument panel appears to be for 1932 Lincoln KB and possibly 1933 KB. Don't think this is the KA version. This is from judging from the large Waltham Clock on right, round King-Seeley Gas Gauge in middle, engine turned surface, tapered inset upper lip, Speedometer on left, amp gauge in middle, oil on far left and temp gauge on far right. The jeweled knob on right I don't think is correct.

Wayne, The source for my opinion that open trailers get less mileage than enclosed is testimony from actual car carriers. The spaces between vehicles create pockets for wind resistance. Their quoted mileage is 4-5 MPG whereas enclosed trailer versions has MPG rates of about 7-8. Perhaps this isn't a fair comparison in that the private auto collector is just one car tall and the bulk of the car/trailer is blocked by the tow vehicle. An enclosed trailer maybe taller than the open version with a car on it thus have more drag, but doesn't have the air gaps/pockets down the side. The MPG numbers could be debated, but the other reasons for an enclosed version remain. Chris

Article on trailering which may be useful: Antique and Classic Automobile Restoration: Tag Along Trailers

I have a need to navigate my enclosed car trailer down a narrow driveway and move around the back yard, fortunately all on asphalt. I've seen some designs that use ATV winches modified with chain and sprockets and others have a special AC electric motor with a type of gear reduction unit. Buying one at $1K isn't appealing. Has anyone built an electric trailer dolly and what did you use for the motor and wheel/tires?<!-- / message --> <!-- / message -->

The 3rd brush is usually the grounding point for a 3 brush system and is connected to the field windings as sfair states. Power is applied to the field terminal. The movement of the third brush puts the generator in direct phase with the other brushes for maximaum output or shifts it out of phase to reduce the output. The cutout relay is monitoring the total output and will only pull the relay in when its output is enough.

Don't think you need to flash windings on this vintage generator. Polarity was established when they wound the field coils in a particular direction and mounted them in the housing. The field windings for this vintage generator will need to be energized using a battery though. Are there seperate armature and field terminals?? And is there a cut-out relay?

Include 2 inch thick High Density rigid foam insulation (Owen-Corning Foamular 250 rated at 25 psi) under the slab and along the inside of the foundation. Do this regardless of what heat method you use. My suggestion is concrete radiant heat using pex tubing inside the slab. You can use a Takaigi Tankless hot water heater and a simple circulator pump. Even if you ran it at 45-50 degrees it takes the chill off the building contents with minimum expense. For hot climate, simple vent fan to move the air/humidity.

I recently sent my Seth Thomas electric wind up (1930 vintage) to the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors near Lancaster, PA. It is a school, Museum and repair center. NAWCC, Inc. 514 Poplar Street Columbia, PA 17512-2130 717-684-8261 / Fax 717-684-0878 Welcome to NAWCC Ask for Jim Michaels or Al Dodson. BTW, a great museum for those wanting a road trip living in Eastern PA. Chris W.

Try Auto Color Library at: Auto Color Library - The World's Largest Online Color-Chip Library They have the original paint chips scanned at: AutoColorLibrary.com You can't save them (copy protected), but you can at least look at them for comparison. You can always order a small amount (pint) of paint to get a feel for the color. I tried this for my 1930 Lincoln, trying to use original colors. It was the best $110 spent of what I didn't want!!

Does this mean the Subsection B, Paragraph 3 says you should be looking for a Buick Skylark collector with two Left Grills on his shelf of NOS parts??

Bill Hirsch Automotive carries a line of 6 volt halogen bulbs. Supposedly no appreciable extra draw than regular bulbs, but have not evaluated first hand. Eric Hirsch is the contact: HALOGEN BULBS-Hirsch Automotive Products

Under Conceptcars.com, there is a 900 roadster that shows this. The 902 has a square step pad. 1932 Packard Model 900 Light Eight Images. Photo: 32_Packard_900_DV_05_BR_05.jpg

By the time you find and purchase one, you're into it for $200 or more and then have to refurbish it for show quality. Why not make up your own trunk using dimensions and shape to fit exactly what you want? Use cabinet grade 3/4 Ply for the base, 1/2 Ply for the sides and tops, glue, biscuit joint and screw together all joints. Hardware and threaded rivets are available from Restoration Supply company (RSC). Piano Hinge is from McMaster-Carr (McMaster-Carr), and covering material is book binding vinyl from Gane Brothers. Article on using threaded rivets for trunks: Antique & Classic Automobile Restoration Tips Materials: $150 Labor: $0 Satisfaction: Priceless Chris

Another article on trailers: Antique and Classic Automobile Restoration: Tag Along Trailers

DeSoto Frank beat me to it. Muggyweld (aluminum welding, pot metal repair, cast iron, silver solder) offers a Super Alloy #1, a low temp high tensil strength solder especially for pot metal repair. Don't confuse this with the stuff sold at flea markets demonstrated to solder beer cans & repair aluminum air conditioner coils. Suggest making a good solid jig to hold it flat and straight while repairing this dash. Let us know how it turns out, include pics as you go so everyone can benefit from this incident.

Gessipie Marconi decides to travel to Italy for 2 weeks of business and pleasure. He enters a New York City bank and applies for a $5,000 loan. The bank approves the loan, but only with some form of security and Marconi is quick to offer his brand new Ferrari as collateral. The bank verifies the title, takes the keys and parks it in their basement garage. During his trip the bank investigates and discovers that Marconi is loaded; he really didn't need this $5,000 loan. Upon his return, Marconi repays the loan and $22.07 interest. The inquisitive loan officer asks Marconi, why the loan, he didn't need it given his financial status. Marconi replies "Where else could I park in the middle of New York City for $22.07 for two weeks and expect to find my car upon my return?"

The Armature Growler article in the December 1941 issue of Popular Science provides a good explanation. The two metal laminated poles that the armature rests in produce magnetic fields. The armature resting on the poles conducts or conveys these fields. If the armature is shorted, it will act like a magnet and the thin metal such as a hacksaw blade will be attracted to the shorted area. If the armature has no shorts, then no current will flow and therefore the thin metal blade will not be attracted to the armature.

Jon, I'm the model L technician for the CCCA, perhaps I can answer your questions. Website: Antique and Classic Automobile Restoration e-mail: friartuck@monmouth.com Chris

Funny how they don't mention who the U Boat Commander was in the article......

Suggest looking at American Trim in Oklahoma American Trim & Upholstery Supply - foam cushions & upholstery supplies

Special concave file for smoothing leaded joints, typical of the 40's-50's.

I was never a big fan of "snake oils" in a can, but can safetly recommend a product called Seafoam for both the fuel system and crankcase oil. I've found it better than Marvel Mystery Oil. For one it has a much thinner (lower) viscosity than MMO.

Assuming this is the original switch and headlights, a heating condition in a switch is from poor connections. This could be the connections to the switch or the contacts inside. In any case, do not use until the problem has been corrected. If its getting hot to the touch, the problem is significant where this is a safety concern, leading to switch failure and/or fire. The cause of the heat are the contacts not making good connections and the 6-10 amps running through it to illuminate 1920's era headlights is dissipating this current in the form of heat, like a nice wire wound resistor. A simple voltage measurement across the switch contacts should determine the switches health. Ideally it should be zero, but no more than 0.1 volts.