Friartuck

Suggest contacting Jon hardgrove at the Carb shop in Missouri. THE CARBURETOR SHOP

My first guess is the water pump and/or fan assembly. Note the water outlet on top of the head pointing straight up.

Steve, After removing body bolts, I use a flat bar between the main body rail and the chassis, enough to get a shim in place. Continue this up and down the legnth of the rail, increasing the thickness of the shims at 6-8 inch intervals. Always do a little at a time, like 1/16-1/8 inch. In my case, my seats were out and access was easy. You may have to do this from underneath. Inspect all the body mounting points regardless of where there are, there's likely one to be good as a sample. Chris

A couple of years ago, I wrote an article on precisely this problem using Kwik Poly. Scroll to the middle of the page: http://userpages.monmouth.com/~friartuck/lincoln/restoration_tips/restoration_tips.html Chris

Dean, The sending unit sounds right for a pressure system. I would have expected the gauge needle to be at zero without any connection to the tank and not 1/2 tank. The air system can only push air (pressure) and not pull, so it can only start at zero and go higher. The bellows may have an adjustment or can be gentley bent the correct way to compensate.

Dean, I haven't seen a gauge like that but suspect that air is still the means that moves the bellows. Exotic gases weren't really available or used in that era. Tread caefully as you go so not to damage the gauge. Suggest using a hand pump as an air source, the type used for basketballs, etc. Harley Davidson also has a neat little hand pump for their air shocks. Like the hydrostatic system, main cause for failure is air leaks. Make up a jig that will leave air (3-5 lbs) in the line, hence a leak down test. Please report back what you find, it will help us all and include a photo. Chris

My observations on this topic and my reasons. In a few years, I plan on using a RV and trailer to take 30-60 day long trips where I would participate to shows in other regions of the country. At that time, I do plan on having a canine companion and would want to have it with me. Leaving it in the RV is unthinkable & inhumane if not illegal in some parts. If the show's rules were no dogs allowed, I simply would not attend. I would not compromise my companion (and its comfort) for the sake of attending a show. As a show participant I would uphold the same standards towards others as I would want others to apply to me. I would know better not to have a metal leash graze a chrome bumper. I do realize however that standards and their adherence are not alike. A main reason for attending a show is to share with others your project and the oppurtunity to see others as well. Example is during the National meet at Hagerstown in 2004, an elderly gentlemen from Virginia (or W.Va) exhibited his mid 1920's blue Rolls Royce Convt. As I recall, he had a young man in his town drive the 125+ miles just to attend. He was thrilled to be there and more than eager to share & explain various things. My point is he went well out of his way to share with us his project just as I plan on doing via the RV method. It would have been a crime if the "climate" were such where he couldn't attend: The Gent would be annoyed and spectors would have missed out. Isn't the bigger picture the ability to participate and perhaps the Hershey Region's motivation was to pave the way for the conduct of all shows? How does impedding participation help the hobby? Granted, some form of standards must be observed for all. They should be followed and expected in return. I think this can be worked if we try. BTW, how do we handle incidents now like belt buckles scratching an exhibitors car? Chris W.

Dean, Sounds like you have a Hydrostatic Gas gauge commonly used on 32-35 Early Ford V-8 and others like 1928-1931 Lincoln. The copper line permits air to be pushed from the sending unit when gas is added into the tank to the gauge which pushes a red fluid up a clear tube indicating the level. The red fluid has a density of four times gasoline thus will respond at one quarter the rate than the pressure in the tank (four inches of gas in the tank should correspond to one inch movement of fluid in the gauge). Do a search on these types of gauges for more info on how to set them up. Chris

1. Third brush generators of this era will barely keep up with this load if only the standard lights and the set of Pilot Rays were on, estimated at 22-25 amps total. All lights on, load would be about 30 Amps and a negative draw, so no it would not keep up. 2. Running Board Spot Light. 3. The single driving light in the center seems redundant with the Pilot Ray driving lights and probably should be removed. The rumble seat windshield looks nice in a picture, but sort of ruins the experience of riding back there. Perhaps also the Packard script on the stone guard, but otherwise looks fine. Its all at the province of the owner/restorer.

Devcon 80 has a Shore A hardness rating of 80 (comparible to the heel of a shoe) is actually in the urethane family, and molds quite nicely. There is also an additive available if you want to make the mixture softer. Mix the two part Devcon 80 by weight (grams scale on a digital postal scale (77:23) works well. It's also available from Grainger. Chris

The previous posts are true. If you want it fast and cheap, it will look cheap. Good work takes time which equates to the final price. I've used Pauls Chrome in Evans City, PA for over ten years and for one simple reason: Over 250 pieces plated ranging from radiator shells to #4 screws & small springs and not one part ever lost and no rework. Their photographic accountabilty process seems to work. The low price of a plater is long forgotten after you have to find a replacement part. Chris

Normally the fenders and running boards are removed first. The fenders should be fastened along the inside edge into the body. Blind nuts are most often used into the wood frame. Notice on my Lincoln the rear fenders were removed, but the running boards and running board splash aprons were left on. The aprons were easier to remove with the body removed.

The method I've used for two 1930 Lincolns is similar to house moving. After all bolts are removed and the body is free, pry up one area a little to get in a 1/8 luan plywood shim and do that for each point. Follow that by a 1/4 inch and so on. When you've got enough clearance for a 4X4, then use blocking outside the chassis and roll it out from under the body. Its especially important about the dolly the chassis will rest on. Be prepared to chock up the body in certain places on the dolley to simulate the chassis. You don't want the body wood to form/shape to improper alignment. This is especially important on this open touring body where there is no upper support like a sedan. My web page shows a couple of photos: http://www.monmouth.com/user_pages/friar...estoration.html This webpage has an article on using Kwik Poly for repairing the sill supports in case yours are rotted. The article was written with this repair in mind and is best performed while on the dolley: http://www.monmouth.com/user_pages/friartuck/lincoln/restoration_tips/restoration_tips.html Chris

Are you referring to the inside of the channel where the glass travels in the guide?? Restoration Specialties in PA sells standard width felt for that. If its external to the channel it could be rubber. Can you post pics??

Please do not attempt to drive it that distance. You should only drive it short distances (2-3 miles) until you become comfortable with it. I also recommend using an enclosed car trailer method, not an open trailer. Open car transport can create paint chips and other mild damage, enough to disappoint an owner. Breaking a headlight lense for example due to a rock or stone getting kicked up is not worth a couple of hundred dollars in savings. The U-Haul folks were right, the model L is too heavy for anything they have and this is not the time to learn how to trailer a car. The Lincoln model L is a little tricky in starting and running. Please contact me and I would be glad to guide you through a familiarization with it. Chris Wantuck

A point not said here is where T1-11 sheets meet other sheets for heights greater than 8 feet, meaning the horizontal seam. A horizontal metal trim is supposed to bead off water, but really doesn't. It's at these transition points where the T1-11 absorbs water and buckles. I would have suggested the Hardie plank (which can be screwed or nailed) or the vertical metal siding. Good thing about the metal is it comes in lengths up to 40 feet long (intended for roofs at that length), but as a siding, no horizontal seams for water to enter.

This is the same day as the South Jersey region meet at Sharpstown, formally known as Cowtown. Would have been nice if the two NJ regions didn't plan their events on the same day.

Parts washer looks great!! Put some wire bicycle wheels and a multi-color umbrella on it and you're all set to sell hot dogs and cold soda at a street fair. All kidding aside, how was the Coke lettering done, custom cut Vinyl from the local sign guy on a Computer aided machine?? Chris

Bill, Here is an article on using Kwik Poly that I wrote for wood repair. Its not the same problem you have, but the graphics may offer some thoughts when considering your delema. http://www.monmouth.com/user_pages/friartuck/lincoln/restoration_tips/restoration_tips.html Chris

You may ask the contractor if he can apply crushed concrete over the dirty base layer. Crushed concrete was used as a base just prior to asphalt on my driveway, but when rolled, was level, not very dusty and quite hard. I could have lived with it if I had to. Also I don't understand why asphalt can't be used. Asphalt is not considered permanent as opposed to concrete which in building code compliance is permanent (and subject to set backs, etc).

Don, Thanks for e-mailing and posting these photos. Now that I see it, perhaps it is Wire-on that's been smacked down with a rubber mallet. Anyone else have an idea what trim this is??

On the first picture, can anyone identify the trim used between the center soft top and the body? Looks too flat to be Wire-on and it doesn't look like Hide-Em. Any guesses??

Local fire department put out the fire in front of the van and some extra water to through around.......In January!

It would be helpful if we had a way to contact you, either through e-mail or phone. Chris

I vote for the Tan top with tan inside lining. I'm assuming the interior seat material is the same as the divider material, dark green leather.