Friartuck

Paul, I was never a big fan of surge brakes. I like the total control that an electric brake system offers which includes manually applying the trailer brakes via the controller. As for the leveling issue, the pivot point when the hitch is raised is at the ball. In my opinion, a few hundred pounds of force shouldn't bend the frame over a 24-30 inch span (ball to leveler point on frame). As for what to do, research what it would take to retrofit electric brakes to the existing axles. If that's not possible, consider selling/trading it for what you want. Don't compromise your collector car over this.

Whoever gets the task to restore the '31 Lincoln, be forewarned that 1931 was a one year only for Lincoln and many parts are unique for that year. Known part problems are hood latches and handles, steering wheel control knobs, Greyhound hood ornament, both horns, cowl and headlight lenses, tail light and their lenses. Even the Seth Thomas electric clock is unique for that year. There will easily be 300-400 hours just in remanufacturing the missing parts and should be taken into account when establishing a purchase price. The good news is someone recently professionally reprinted the '31 owners manual, so thats a start. Chris

The Lincoln is a 1931 model K and not a 1932 KA. Indicators are: 1. Shape of radiator grill 2. Hood louvers instead of doors. Doors used in 1932 only. 3. Red Cloisionne emblem, used on 31' and '32 V-8 models only. 1931 Lincoln model K

Also try: Trans-Bearing Co Inc. 1771 State Route 34 # 4 Wall Township, NJ 07727 (732) 681-8600 http://www.transbearing.net/

It is admirable that you want to write up something and share it with others. More of us should do this. The subject of Brakes could be sensitive as this is a safety item. Remember that what you put it in print today will last for years & decades. Is this an area of specialty for you? Along the lines of liability, is your view the correct one? Will readers get it right or understand it correctly? My suggestion is 1) reference as many existing manuscripts and their instructions as possible, and 2) add disclaimers that readers should check with certified technicians or part manufacturers.

Looks like you're using a pneumatic stapler or perhaps a brad nailer. How will you finish off the edges, with Hide-Em or Wire-on?? Would like to see a close-up picture of that detail.

Barry, Only concern about intake vent on the bottom is that air will take the shortest route, from the bottom and along the side to the vac source. Ideally air should draw across the work area. For the Gloves, try the ussual places like McMaster & MSC. I know TIP in Ohio sells individual components. Maybe someplace that sells the media for blasting bridges. One trade name for slag based media is Black Beauty.

Barry, my comments: 1. The sheet metal liner in the back wall should be fine. 2. Suggest using several flood lights from differant angles like in the corners. Multiple lights prevents shadows and "punches through" the dust so you can see. As your cabinet is so large, plan on a way to replace the bulbs like the ones on the far end or just have double doors. Wait, don't you specialize in "replacing bulbs"..... 3. The glass window should have a protection layer on the inside that can be easily replaced. The bouncing media will frost the window so just admit defeat and include a replaceable clear covering on the inside. Plan on replacing every 20-25 hours of use. Use the 1/4 inch glass, held using a step or offset channel screwed using hex screws for easy removal using a drill/driver. Don't forget a thin seal around the perimeter of the viewing hole between the cabinet and the glass. 4. Large air intake, preferably on the top with a metal deflector on the inside so blast media doesn't fly out. 5. Attach gloves to the front holes so they can be easily replaced. Invariably you or someone will blast through the glove finger tip or other part necessitating their replacement. 6. The vaccuum system probably should be a good dust collector. I don't think a shop Vac will be enough, but try it. Can't hurt to try. 7. Like the idea of using a pressure system rather than syphon version. Should work well.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Barry Wolk</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What good is insurance that you know will be a hassle to use? </div></div> Barry's note goes to the theme of my post. About 25 years ago, a Northern New Jersey restoration shop burned to the ground and destroyed eighteen automobiles. Seventeen of these were covered under policies from J.C. Taylor and the other with a company which will go nameless (but not mentioned so far). J.C. Taylor settled the claims with their policy holders in about three weeks and the other, took over one year and still not certain if it was settled. Both company's had identical rates.

West, I'll give you credit. If you're going to wish, wish big!

Ken, Since you have to make or find an adapter for the compression gauge, might I suggest you also set it up to do a leak down test. Pressurize the cylinder to about 60 pounds for that vintage and with a valve in the supply side, monitor how fast that pressure drops, with and without some oil in the cylinders. Will tell you health of the valves, rings, priming cups, etc.

Now that I'm enlightened on the individual cylinder configuration, I still have not seen where Ken performed a compression test and what were those results. Remember Ken reported a gradual loss of power and then it finally quit. I suppose another thought is did it jump time? Gears too do move and not just timing chains.

Ken, I have not seen you comment on performing an actual compression test. Did you and what were the results? This sounds like a gradual degradation problem rather than a sudden "something broke" which points me to head gasket gradually failing. The fact that you used the priming cups with no differance has me thinking compression is leaking into adjacent cylinders, hence lack of compression and lack of vaccuum. Your hard choking it may get some gas/air mix into the cylinder.

F&J's comment about fueling dripping is something I didn't pick-up on earlier and is a sure sign of carb problem. Perhaps the electric fuel pump is overpowering the float circuit of the carb. The Carb Rebuilder may have just assumed it was gravity pressure. Ken, do you have a regulator on the fuel pump?

Ken, F&J's comments are very good, but based on the symptoms described, I think its a carb problem and more specifically, float level. Fuels in the past few years have changed their density a little which would change where the float is bouyant. Another possibility is the float itself. How do you know the float hasn't been filling up with fuel, a common problem with older brass metal that becomes porous over time. Yet another issue is recently formulated fuels have been cleaning the fuel systems where grit has been showing up in filters and fuel bowls. I don't see where you mentioned pulling the carb and thoroughly cleaning it. If you're a little creative (and careful), you could run the engine off propane which would narrow down your area to diagnose. Use a 20 pound cylinder with regulator and rubber hose whip with seperate valve on the regulated side. One person on the propane tank at all times controlling it while someone else starts the car. Let us know how this turns out.

Notice Mundy's response about pressure: 1/3 atmosphere, very low. I suspect that if higher pressure's are used, the molucules are tighter resulting in a smaller wavelength, hence a change in color. The marching Dots are probably the residual of some of the gases not mixing together perfectly. Also the frequency of the Tesla coils at 25 KHz may be a factor. He's probably tried various mixes and pressures ala the Edison method: 1 percent inspritation, 99 percent perspiration!

Bruce, I experienced a similar problem with a 1930 Sedan. The problem was the shims rotted out the wood at that specific location. The rest of the body frame rail was fine. This link is to an article I wrote on this type of repair if it applies to you. http://www.monmouth.com/~friartuck/lincoln/restoration_tips/restoration_tips.html Chris

Barry, I think the answer lies in the inert gas being used. Mundy's website does state he's "blended" various gases together, so I suspect its like a semi-condonductor condition. Pehaps temperature or diversion/dissipation of the field from the wire antenna conductor plays a role in it. Where did you acquire it?? Mundy's website is rather silent on their availability. Chris

Roger, I think Cover-It garages is still in business, they're located in Connecticut. Cover-It made up a special "Lean-Too" style 15 years ago and I purchased the replacement cover from them 3 years ago after the original wore out. Also see enclosures of New England. You may also consider a carcapsule inside the Coverit. Adds good protection.

Check with ASAP Metals (now ALRO Metals). They have Brass tubing, depending on your wall thickness sold by the inch. http://www.asapsource.com/public/index.asp

I think what David Coco was referring to is that these 3 inch round bellows thermostat units are common to many differant cars. My L series (1930) Lincoln also uses this round bellows thermostat. These are fairly easy to repair. Perform an air leak-down test using 5-10 pounds of air. If necessary, solder the repair which is usually a crack in the bellows section. When disassembled, use bright light against the suspected section to see the leak area. After soldering together, fill the unit half way (and I mean only half way) with Methyl Alcohol using the "soldered over" fill area in the rear of the unit. You can also replace the soldered fill hole with a machine screw and nylon washer with sealant. Using the machine screw method also makes it easier to perform the leak-down test. Methyl Alcohol is used in some brands of Dry Gas products, so read the labels carefully. I found mine at a local Rite Aid drug store. Do not use Ethyl or Isopropel alcohol. Test the unit in a pot of boiling water before reinstalling. Cost of Solder: $2.50 Cost of Dry Gas: $2.99 Repairing it yourself: Priceless!

I would add to trimacar's posts: Before you consider taking this project on yourself, what machine are planning to use to stitch this top together? You need a good walking foot machine that will handle the extra thickness and weight of the top material. This is the type of machine that has the upper & lower presser feet and the needle all moving in an oval stitch cycle. It should also have a reverse for locking the stitch. Then there is the presser foot attachments that are needed to make nice crisp piping and edges. While these attachments are become more available courtesy of the internet, they're not cheap. If you start ruining $125/yard material with an inadequate machine and the edges look uneven, what have you saved? I would argue you may actually devalue the car. Choose wisely!!

Can anyone suggest an electronic ignition product to retrofit 6 volt circuits that uses the existing points (hence not magnetic or optically triggered)?

A little Googling can go a long way, and so does some experience. I've placed orders with MSC, McMaster-Carr, and Travers and Travers has not let me down, yet....There's a differance between in the catalog and on the shelf. I usually try to consolidate my orders so no wonder why I've never had the $25 minimum problem. Sorry if I mislead anyone. I pretty much agree with Simplyconnected, at least we still have the ability to purchase some of these odd type tools and cutters. Howard Dennis just stumbled upon an odd size. Look at early Harley-Davidson hardware, 1/4-24! They had to split between 1/4-20 and 1/4-28! The fun of car collecting!!

The 10-40 screw size is not standard and doubt that Harbor Freight has that. 10-32 yes, 10-40 no. Suggest Travers Tool in Long Island at 1-800-221-0270, https://www.travers.com/Default.asp, page 140 of their catalog for taper, spiral or bottoming, $12.10 each and no minimum. Drilling out brass 8-32 nuts should work as the stock. Chris