Friartuck

Try American Trim in Oklahoma (http://www.atrim.com) or Gilbreath (http://www.upholsterysupply.com/index.html)

I recently used Prarie in Minn and I haven't finished engine yet, so I can't testify to durability. They did however, came recommended from a well known shop. Search in Hemmings under Services offerred: Porcelain manifolds, show quality, authentic 1430 porcelain; hi-temp ceramic coating for manifolds & headers; show quality cast iron repairs; computer controlled firing; our manifolds are in the winners circle. 507-334-9309, 507-645-5325 cell; email: tandmsparrow@earthlink.net; Prarie Auto Porcelain, 17250 Cannon City Blvd, Faribault, MN 55021. Chris

Another address for Phil Bray is braypt@yahoo.com

In 2000, I took a gamble on a small company called Lexaire and their HVLP. No regrets. Vertical, horizontal and round spray patterns from 6-16 inches wide and a pneumatic trigger is what sold me. More expensive than others. Look closely; they sell the robotic arm version to OEM's. Website is poor, but product is recommended: http://www.lexaire.com/ Chris

An article that was written about trailering in general. Perhaps some of it will provide useful. http://www.monmouth.com/user_pages/friartuck/lincoln/trailer/trailer.html Chris

Don't know if there are seperate zip codes, but the intercom has two area codes!

Catalog info I found at Grainger: Motor,1/35 HP,6 Vdc Permanent Magnet DC Totally Enclosed Non-Ventilated Motor, HP 1/35, RPM 2350, Armature DC Voltage 6 VDC, Mounting Stud, Service Factor 1.00, Bearings Sleeve, Amps@Nameplate Volts 6.3, Thermal Protection None Grainger Item # 2M196 Price (ea.) $14.20 Brand DAYTON Mfr. Model # 2M196 An assortment of fan blades are also available, depending on your size needs.

Rod, you should be able to find brushes through a motor rebuilder in your area. You may have to get slightly larger ones and file/sand them to size. Also, Grainger electric supply http://www.grainger.com has one 6 volt motor in their catalog and it fits perfect into the cradle of a 1930's vintage heater. RPM is right for fan application. They also sell a 4 or 5 bladed fan

I made contact with Brad Landoll, Gerald Landoll's son. Brad is still running the business, though it may not be full time. His plan is to still make trim, not just sell off the current inventory. He also has plans for a website, so stay tuned. Best way to contact him is via email: blandoll@hotmail.com Basic info still valid: L&L Antique Auto Trim 403 North Spruce Street Pierce City, MO 65723 (417) 476-2871 Brad Landoll (blandoll@hotmail.com)

Gerald Landohl at L&L Passed on in about March or April 2007. Supposedly his son was still running things, but not sure how dedicated he is or will be. It may be a case of him selling off the current inventory. Would appreciate it if anyone gets through or knows anything to post a reply. Check with Neal Maken at Skinned Knuckles (sk_publishing@yahoo.com). L&L advertised in SK. Maybe he knows something. Chris

My quick thoughts: 1. No problem sticking your neck out, 2. If you use your own deposit $$, that's your exposure, can you afford to lose it if something goes sour, 3. Yes, use a digital camera or using a movie is better (better depth of field) 4. Never, never, never inspect something like this at night. Ron says his schedule didn't allow daytime visit/inspection. If you can't do it right, don't do it at all. CCW

Agree with West, more than just a speaker. I can't tell from these photo views if even it is a speaker, but the name, VIBRATOR means that it is a part of the power circuit for a radio. The vibrator changes the 6 volt DC into AC and transformers step up the voltage to run the tubes. The holes on top are clear heat ventilation holes. Chris

Dan, can you post pictures of the plate? I don't rebuild electrical motors or generators, but I'm an amatuer machinist and maybe I can suggest something. One comes to mind is a posting on one of the machinist news groups/forums. http://www.practicalmachinist.com/cgi-bin/ubbcgi/ultimatebb.cgi http://www.homeshopmachinist.net/ Some of those guys like the challenge and do it for low cost. If you go that route, remember it might make sense to make several, either as spares or for other folks with Remy's. If they've disintegrated, likely they all are. Chris NJ Shore area

Barry, OK, you're starting to win me over with this blue. Definately a consertaive color and tone/hue. Charge ahead!! Chris

Barry, Great that you're taking on this project and that you've got the time. Not bad for someone who "changes light bulbs"! I don't like the color. This blue is too bright for a limo. Dark Blue, dark maroon, or dark green. Of course, black goes with everything. Chris

The one I used from Bob Anzalone in Michigan is a machined version. About $425 with non-slip wrenches. Also indistinguishable from original. Looks even better with correct decal from Osborne Reproductions in Georgia.

This year, on this AACA Discussion Forum, under a thread called "Clever License Plates", I foolishly posted a picture of my plate and 56 days later I got a parking ticket summons in the mail for a town that I had not visited in this century! This car is used about twice per year, only on weekends and sunny, not on a weekday afternoon while I was at work (as the summons cited). When I pressed the issue to the court over the phone, on the third call, they misteriously dropped the summons. I surmised the parking authority attendant (New Brunswick, NJ) thought he could get an uncontested ticket to fill the monthly quota.

Jeff, Is this the type of Kissel data plate you're looking for? The last period in U.S.A. looks awkward, but the No symbol in Engine No looks about right. Amazing what you can find in your local auto parts store.

Rick, Yes you can use the resister approach to draw more current and allow the flasher to toggle on and off, but isn't that defeating the purpose of using the LED's, to lower current draw? The size of the resister would be in the single digit range, perhaps 5 ohms or so. More so is the heat range or wattage rating of the resister. It should have a 5 watt rating, 10 watt preferred. They are recognized by their ceramic or stone appearance that is needed to dissipate the heat and prevent burn out. Suggest using the heavy duty flasher before going this route. They should still be available over the counter at most auto parts stores like NAPA (even in Alaska) and may need to be ordered . If you get stuck, e-mail me directly. Chris

Rick, You should use the 10 Gauge wire for the headlight circuits (battery to head light switch, switch to headlight sockets and headlight socket ground leads). If you have an ammeter, use 10 Gauge wire from the battery to the ammeter and from the ammeter to the ignition switch (terminal). The 12 gauge is adequate for all other circuits. Also, check whick type of directional relay you have. Some relays need a minimum amount of current to flow through it to make and break the circuit. The LED tail lights won't draw enough current to make the relay work. If that occurs, purchase a heavy duty relay which is a relay that will operate regardless of the amount of current going though it. Heavy duty relays are intended for turn signal circuits when a trailer is added which causes the circuit to flash much faster than normal. Despite its name, you would still use it.

True, this years corral was an effcient use of space, but compared to previous years, somewhat inconvienent. I liked it better when the Corral was in the middle like a "hub" and the flea market fields were "spokes" off of it. The corral should be condensed where practical as a square shape offers. Trying to compare two vehicles when they're seperated by a mile in the "linear format" means alot of walking. Also, walking the corral in the morning is a enjoyable way to see whats available while waiting for the vendors to open up shop. At that point, each field is about the same distance away.

I also say that you would be pushing it. An article that explains trailering: http://www.monmouth.com/user_pages/friartuck/lincoln/trailer/trailer.html

and 1928 Packard 443 Roadster

1936 Mercedes Benz model 540K

The answer here is in the detail. Reread the original post: Restorer32 wanted low crown, not pointed "bullet" style acorns. AIR Fasteners in that size appear to be bullet shape. Its possible to chuck them into a lathe and take off the bullet tip depending how far the acorn nut was threaded and then have them rechromed.