Friartuck

I use the carcoon during the winter months along with a special Cover-It Lean-too Garage. I had Cover-It make up a special frame and their color coordinated canvas and fit it with a zipper door in the front. The carcoon is the inside version because the Cover-It already acts as one barrier. The air inside does move as the fan pushes the air and it leaks past the zipper's teeth. I have not seen any evidence of moisture build up in three years use. When inflated, the bubble is sort of stiff. If a bicycle were to tip over against the car, the bubble is strong enough to break its fall.

Post deleted by Friartuck

Auto color library has scanned paint chip sheets with codes going back to 1930 and even earlier. http://www.autocolorlibrary.com

Try Olson's gaskets in Port Orchard, Washington. http://www.olsonsgaskets.com/

Restoration Supply Company, Escondido, CA also has rain gutter in 12 foot lengths. Page 16 of their catalog: http://www.restorationstuff.com/ Chris

Gardner-Westcott in Michigan has chrome plated and stainless hardware. No minimum to buy and all the correct head styles. Their web site: http://www.gardner-westcott.com/ Chris

The TFT Color LCD Monitor is from ACCELEVision. Model is LCDP56 which means it's 5.6 inch across. Seems Accelevision makes the monitors for minivans, etc. It happens this model has the reverse video feature. I think other larger models are also available. This method could also be used for a street rod with limited rear view mirror visibility (i.e. an electronic rear view mirror). Chris

To answer this primary question, I think air cylinders are limited in length because the amount of volume increases when fully actuated. I don't think you're able to get the same force of an air cylinder when fully extended as when fully retracted. Hydraulic's do provide even pressures. Remember, air compresses and fluids/oils don't. As far as the camera idea, I discovered a 5.5 inch LCD screen version that has reverse video feature which means it's now like a rear view mirror: Objects on the left side of the screen are in fact on the left side of the trailer. Chris

Perhaps I mislead you with my earlier post. I meant for the Smooth-On material for just the mold, not the final product. The cured material is sort of sticky and flexible. That's what it is intended for, as a molding material. After a mold is made, then use a liquid rubber of a hard shore hardness. Check with Devcon, Flexane series. Don't know if it is available in white. As mentioned earlier, what do other car owners use when they cross this problem. Also, Restoration Supply Company in Escondido, CA has diamond alum running board material (for fire trucks), perhaps could be used as a mold. Chris

I agree with Restorer 32 and Bob, send them out to a reputable plater. The difference if in the first plated coating, the copper layer. The caswell system doesn't strike into the metal the way commercial platers do (they have the right acid bath). True, the better the preparation you do, the better the final finish will turn out, and presumably since the plater is doing less work, should save a few rubles along the way. Chris

Thanks for the answer. I thought it was a Packard Darrin, but didn't want to mention it in case I was wrong. It's been awhile since I saw any of the episodes. Chris

Does anyone remember what the vehicle was the George Peppard used in the TV series Banachek, circa 1972-1974? We'll get this out of the way before we move on to Columbo's beat up sedan............. Chris

Beth E. Once you've cleaned out the tank using either the radiator shop boil out or the Draino method, you should seal the tank from the inside using a product like the one from POR: http://www.por15.com/PRODUCTS/FUELSYSTEMRESTORATION/USSTANDARDFUELTANKSEALER/tabid/112/Default.aspx The tank must be bone dry before coating. For your Chevy tank, one quart is more than enough. Pour the entire quart into the tank and rotate and flip the tank on all six sides to cover (coat) the entire inside with the product. Pour out the remaining back into the can. Takes about 3 days to fully dry. Also suggest you complete your profile a little more like adding your e-mail address. Folks here on the forum do send messages directly with attachments like pictures. Chris

Would heating-expanding the drum and press fitting a sleeve inside be an option here?

I posted a thread on reproducing small parts using smaooth-on rubber products at http://forums.aaca.org/favlinker.php?Cat...er=&postmarker= I believe you can use the same process to make a rubber copy of the Marmon logo, then make a plastic pattern. Touch it up as necessary for the wear. McMaster-Carr has liquid rubber in various Shore Hardnesses. Hope this helps. Chris

I'm right in the middle of replacing some wood pieces on a '30 Lincoln 3 window sedan, so this topic is also of interest to me. Regarding the joints, I would leave them clear for the glue/adhesive to penetrate. Afterwards, coat with the coating of your choice. If you're not familiar with Kwik Poly, I recommend it highly. It has a low viscosity so it penetrates the wood fibers well and cures in about 10 minutes. You can also mix it with any dry material such as the silica powder that comes with the kit, saw dust, powdercoat powder, etc to build up a rotted area or reform a piece like countersunk holes for wood screws. I think the web site is http://www.kwikpolyllc.com Try the 1/2 pint kit, I don't think you'll regret it. Chris

Cloth based electrical tape is called Gaffing tape. It is purely cloth based without the excessive adhesive like Duct tape. Its intended to be used in motors and places where it may get hot and you don't want adhesive to drip into moving parts. 3M makes several versions, the one I'm familiar with is 3M6910 which is 2 inches wide. I'm sure they make a narrower version. Chris

Not sure if OlcarHerb is up to date on this, but in New Jersey, Year of Manufacture (YOM) plates are permited on the front only if, and only if the rear tag is the NJ Historic plate. Herb is right that you can apply for Historic (called QQ) vanity plates or just accept the random number versions. If you choose to use the Historic plates, NJ restricts the use to car events and shows and are exempt from the annual inspection rules. BTW: If you've been convicted of a DWI or reckless driving offense in NJ, then you're not entitled to the vanity versions, QQ or regular ones. If I find the copy of the state letter, I'll post it. Chris

I think the answer to this question lies with the intent of these amber side lights, they're clearance lights. By placing the one side light at the same level as the front/rear ones, you're not representing the true height at the center. This is not a case for symetry. My suggestion is to place the center light at the top thereby showing the true height. Chris

Lincoln model L (1921-1930) which also is a babbited bearing engine has main bear specs at .0015. Like it was said, if the expected driving mileage is light to mild, I think I would leave well enough alone. True, good to resolve this while you're in there, but how far do you take it?

Ad in Hemmings reads: Oak Bows, 122 Ramsey Ave, Chambersburg, PA 17201, United States, 717-264-2602 Steam bent top bows duplicating your original bow. All bows steam bent like the original, not glued. No danger of separation. Send patterns, sockets or old bows for duplication. All SASEs will be answered. My opinion. Pricey, but good quality. Five bows for a touring finished was about $1,900. Suggest making them yourself on a plywood template using ship lap joints instead of steam bending. Can do the job using a router, belt sander and material for under $200.

Wayne, My initial response is 1) cost, a touring was 10-15 percent cheaper, 2) climate, tourings were more popular in mild to warmer areas (put up with cold for 2-3 months), 3) availability, sedans took longer to manufacture, and 4) wardrobe, folks generally wore wool or heavy cotton cloths and overcoats. Chris

This was heart wrenching enough to dig out this photo, but this topic goes to prove a point. I lost a 32 KB Lincoln in a fire in western NJ which was stored in a building where owners came and went under the supervision of the building owner. The building owner applied good rules, no working on the car in the building, etc. and taking it out required advance notice. About 40 cars were stored there. I had inherited the car while still in college and this storage building was the best solution at the time. One jerk who had a pop up camper forgot to shut off the 20# propane bottle which was later determined to be the source of the fire. I sued the owner and won (based on a bailment where I entrusted the item to him and it should have been returned in like condition-similar to a fur coat at a door check). The point I want to make is our possesions are only as safe if there under our direct control.

Does anyone have any information regarding the Beals & Selkirk Trunk Company of Wyandotte and Flint Michigan? Beals & Selkirk manufactured trunks for travel (wardrobe & steamer) as well as for automotive. Looking for company catalog pictures, pictures of current trunks, hardware used and interior cloth/colors, and dimensions. send directly to friartuck@monmouth.com Chris

I check the Material Saftey Data Sheets (MSDS) for both ethyl and methanol alcohols. The ethyl has about 44 mm of mercury (44 MM HG) pressure versus methanol which has a rating of 97 mm HG. I interpret this to mean that ethyl would have about half the pressure capability of methanol and its possible that ethyl may not work. Both have the same boiling point of 148 degrees F. The brand of dry gas I used was OSCO manufactured by OSCO Drug. Another source for 99% methanol is the industrial supplier McMaster Carr http://www.mcmaster.com Quart was about $13.00, although no idea what shipping would be.