Friartuck

Jeff, Try: http://www.msc-stainless-fasteners.com/ They do not show Acorns for 9/16-18, but do in other larger sizes. Worth a call, but I think in the end, you'll be spending a few hours at the lathe and get them exactly as you want. Chris

My first thought is to use 1/2 X 20 and drill and tap out for 9/16 X 18. May not need any drilling. Two step method, start with taper tap and finish with blunt-bottoming tap. McMaster-Carr has stainless acorns with varing sizes on the flats (i.e. meat to work with), but G-W has nicer styles. Taps available from McMaster or Travers machine in NY. Chris

Driver's side of a 1930 model L Lincoln: And the Passenger side: Chris

I use the Lincoln SP-175 which is a 220V unit. My suggestion is make the investment into a 220V line for both the welder and the compressor. You'll never look back! Chris

I've got to go with 3Jakes on this one. I'm about to tackle the upholstery on my '30 Lincoln sedan and will only consider broadcloth or mohair. You'll only reduce the value with anything else. I know that Bill Hirsch seels quality fabric. Think quality here and you'll never look back! Chris

Electrical Engineer for the US Army specializing in tactical radio communications. Hardly a pre-requisite for antique automobiles, but the things you get to see.....that I can't talk about! Kind of like the minister who plays hooky on Sunday to play golf and hits a hole in one...Who's he going to tell????? Chris

Barry, This is truely <span style="font-weight: bold">Great</span> news, but you do know that you're going to have to get in the saddle yourself and ride this horse at some point. The points you made about advancing the weight bars are priceless! I guess my quick reaction is how do you know if you go too far in the adjustment? We should all take your tips as a lesson learned. Congrats!!

I''ll offer how I refinished my leaf springs. In my case, the two rear springs need to be re-arched which the local spring shop did. Next, they were disassembled and each leaf was cleaned using wire wheel and flapper wheel. Each leaf was primed using Glasurit epoxy primer and painted <span style="font-weight: bold">one</span> coat of black enamel on special saw horses. Your choice of paint, either Dupont Centari or PPG's single stage (Concept line) works well. They were reassembled with a very light coating of grease between mating surfaces of the leaves. When assembled, another light final wet coat of paint was applied. They were then installed onto the chassis. Pics and details at: http://www.monmouth.com/user_pages/friar...estoration.html

I had a similar experience with my 3rd series roadster. The gas gauge was a pull wire attached to the float and the cable's outer spiril rusted and seperated. I used throttle control cable from a marine supplier. That cable had an extra thin plastic lining on the inside to prevent oxidation in a salt water climate, so the wire slid much easier. Perhaps you can do the same, just cut to length. Chris

Stude8, Spoke to someone here in NJ that has a Wig-Wag, but not installed on a car. There is a valve on the brake pedal, similar to the brake light switch (probably includes a spring on the lever). Using a selonoid might work, but might be tough to find in 6 volt. Try Mc-Master-Carr or Grainger. Let us all know how it turns out. Chris

This may not be a voltage problem. One aspect you may not be thinking of is mechanical/vibration. Perhaps halogen bulbs are more sensitive to shock and vibration. It is also possible to have a "bad batch" of bulbs. That ocurred to me on a motorcycle taillight application: 3 bad bulbs in 3 weeks. Just a bad lot. I don't see small variations in voltage (8-10 VDC) for a short period, say 3 to 5 tenths of a second blowing them out.

Susan, Have you looked into Gear Vendors Under-Over Drive units? http://www.gearvendors.com/ Chris

Folks, an article on trailering that may be helpful. The tip on Nitrogen filled tires will be added shortly. http://www.monmouth.com/user_pages/friartuck/lincoln/trailer/trailer.html Chris

The article you're reading seems very familiar and you suddenly realize that you're the who wrote it ten years ago.....

Charlier, If you have no objections, I'd like to include your comments to the web article. Chris

I just wrote an article on trailering for one of the CCCA regions and also posted it to my website. Its geared for the heavier collectible, but still useful nonetheless. Trailering Article Chris

Stromberg 0-3 Carburetor for sale. This Stromberg includes the rare Electro-Fog Generator feature at the bottom of the carb. As shown, includes Carb adapter flange, air cleaner tower, air cleaner base, choke linkage and lever. This particular unit was probably made for a 1924-1927 Lincoln, but the basic carb fits others as well. $200.00 plus shipping UPS ground from zip code: 07701 (Red Bank, NJ). Other pictures at: Other Stromberg Pictures <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />

Hemmings Ad shows: L&L Antique Auto Trim, 403 Spruce, Box 177, Pierce City, MO 65723, PH: 417-476-2871. Sorry to hear about Mr. Gerald Landohl(sp). I know he went into the hospital in late Feb, buy was released. Chris

Muffler bearings?.....Blinker Fluid?......Anyone suggest a source for a wire stretcher? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

Brad, According to Muggy-Weld, their Arc rods have 300% more elasticity than conventional nickel rods, which makes sense for the expansion and shrinking of cast iron. Agree with something the size of a manifold, pre-heating and gradual cooling can only help to situation. Suggest looking at the videos on their website. And I have successfuly used their products. And BTW, Happy Birthday! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Bob, I would recommend repairing your manifold. Muggy-Weld offers two differant grades/types of Arc welding rods for dealing with cast iron. The repair should include a jig (flat surface) for holding the manifold's flanges flat during the repair. Make sure the welder uses a back-stich method and I would preheat the area to to be repaired despite what Muggy-Weld says. The web site offers videos as well. Chris

In My Opinion, the king of mirrors for all vintages and styles: Jay M Fisher 4B Acken Dr Clark, NJ 07066 (732) 388-6442 Mail order only. Manufacturer of sidemount mirrors, 1900-1970, inside mirror restoration, windwing brackets, radiator caps, mascots, small parts fabrication, leather straps, restoration of any mirrors. Catalog, $2 cash SASE. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

This Stromberg O-3 updraft Carburetor is for model L Lincolns 1927-1930, and possibly as early as 1926. It does not have the Electro-Fog Generator attachment which means its after 1924-1925. Please contact me directly at friartuck@monmouth.com Chris

Lincoln Model L reproduction parts for sale: 1. Model L Gas Caps: http://www.monmouth.com/user_pages/friartuck/lincoln/gas_cap/gas_cap.html 2. 1929-1930 radiator night or touring cap: http://www.monmouth.com/user_pages/friartuck/lincoln/night_cap/night_cap.html 3. Model L splash pan bolts: http://www.monmouth.com/user_pages/friartuck/lincoln/splash_pan_bolt/splash_pan_bolt.html Chris Wantuck <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Trailer Considerations 1. Gross Vehicle Weight, most trailers handle 10,500 pounds, consider getting larger tires and axles rated for 12,000 GVW 2. Height. Is an opening of 7 foot enough? If some collectable cars of the ?teen era? tend to be higher requiring a larger trailer. If you think you will never trailer a tall car, then stay with standard height. 3. Left side door. Having a left side ?pass door? over the axles is handy. Is standard among some models. 4. Spare tire. Include spare tire in your order. Locating the spare in a hidden floor compartment saves space, but can be havoc if you need it and there is a car over it. 5. Electric winch is a good idea. Make sure it?s mounted to the frame (e.g. U bolts over the channel). Run adequate (suggest 8 gauge or better) cable from the tow vehicle battery to a specialized two prong quick disconnect at the trailer hitch. 6. Reese or Equal-I-Zer hitch system that offers BOTH weight distribution and sway control. Barry Wolk?s experience (well documented in other threads) shows the perils of an inadequate hitch. 7. Electric trailer tongue jack is a nice convenience which usually located right behind the tongue. If you have a tongue jack on the outside of the frame rail, it may interfere with the hitch?s weight distribution bars, forcing you to have to move the jack (using snap ring pliers) before installing the weight distribution bar. 8. Consider a tongue weight scale (approx $125 and documented in other discussion forum threads). Helps establish where to position the car and ensuring sufficient weight. Offerred at camping trailer sales locations. Perhaps borrowing one and do it once. 9. Look at the height of the inner fender wells. Will your car be able to pull in and open the door without hitting the fender well. Ideally the door should swing above the well. 30?s cars probably have enough clearance, but 60?s cars may not. This would force you to climb out the window or add raise the height of the floor to get clearance. Exercise care when choosing your trailer. 10. Thin pass door on the front passenger side. Usually standard. 11. Consider using the E-Track System to the floor for securing the car while in transit. E-Track can be purchased through McMaster-Carr Industrial supplier. Don?t forget the E-Track clips and straps. 12. Consider laying down a vinyl floor covering as offered by Better Life Technology, LLC Better Life's Web Page for easy clean-up of oils and spills. Put down the E-Track over the vinyl covering. 13. Consider a special trailer cover to protect it while in long term storage. The sun and elements really reek havoc on an unprotected unit. 14. Consider using small jack stands on the rear frame members and in conjunction with the tongue jack to take some of the weight off the springs while in long term storage. 15. If using electric brakes, investigate how the controller is installed and will be used. I believe starting in 2005, Ford now integrates it into their wiring and brake systems. Other brands may or already did follow suit. That's all folks! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />