Friartuck

May I suggest Mouser Electronics Mouser Electronics - Electronic Component Distributor page 622 or there abouts. Look for Group Size 2AG.

http://www.smallparts.com sells stainless steel shim stock in various thicknesses at 6 inches wide. Perhaps cutting into strips and folding on a rectangular anvil.

Bob, Just exactly are these staples used for? I guess I don't understand. Have you tried where you bought the rubber? My next suggestion is Restoration Specialties there in PA. All sorts of rubber extrusions, etc, perhaps they have a suggestion. If this is decorative in nature, then perhaps contact adhesive for the real strength and small stainless strips, say 1/16 or 1/32 wide shaped as a staple. Try smallparts.com, mcmaster-carr (mcmaster.com) or local hobby shop for material. Photos would help.....

I too like the idea of retracing your steps to find the original, first. Finding someone with a similar vintage Gardner to photograph it or get someone in the area of that Gardner owner if the owner can't or won't photo it himself. Its hard to see from the photo where the line of action is to twist these brake rods. Is it simply up past the axle? Looks like the two rod ends don't touch each other and they're held in line by this coupling, so keiser31's sketch is sort of right.

No experience with these three, but would recommend including Paul's Chrome, Evans City, PA (near Pittsburgh, PA) in your search. Paul's is priced around with the others and their photo identification process attributes to them having never lost a single part of mine, not even the smallest spring. Price and part's condition go hand-in-hand.

American Trim in Oklahoma (American Trim & Upholstery Supply - foam cushions & upholstery supplies) sells upholstery materials including staples for a pneumatic staple gun. Not sure if they sell them in stainless. Also try Sailrite in Indiana (Sunbrella Fabrics, Sailmaking Supplies, Sailcloth, Sail Kits, Canvas & Sail Hardware) sells galvanized upholstery grade staples for the marine trade.

Roger, There are two other power converters available. This system won't let me attach files to e-mails, so e-mail me directly for an article written about this. Also, Bill Hirsch Auto, Newark, NJ starting handling 6V halogen bulbs. Concern I would have is the 12V halogen bulbs draw quite a bit of current at 12V and may exceed the capability of a 6-12 volt converter. Chris friartuck@monmouth.com

Judging from the original photos on how bodies were assembled using special jigs, the tolerances for bodies were reasonably good for their day. They probably mounted the body with four or five shims per mounting bolt and from there, adjusted accordingly, either adding or removing one at a time. In the case of Lincoln, production was about sixteen cars per day.

Suggest using woven brown fiber body cushion material from Restoration Supply Company, page 43 of their catalog RSC Its 1/8 inch thick and making multiple layers is easy. This is the material used by many marques for this very application. I feel that cork will be too soft, the body will sink, and the body will go out of alignment over time. Also, it is possible to put one shim under the radiator mounting bolts between the it and the chassis to prevent squeeking. So start with one shim under the radiator and align the firewall and hood as descibed by others.

Ply33, Yes, I was referring to your article, but didn't know it existed until after the fact. I had a newer style donor gauge with bulb and capillary tubing, but it didn't seem to work after the modification. The main mistake was not submersing the bulb in ice water/salt solution. On mine, I'm able to solder the gauge side directly to the threaded connector. After that failure, I tried using(adding) Methyl Alcohol, but that has a boiling point at about 66 degrees C. Your mentioning the diethyl ether (35 C point) now makes sense as the 66 degree point for Methyl seemed way too high for the results I was getting. I had to really heat the bulb to get any reasonable results, hence why I declared it a failure. So this seems to be one of the questions answered. Now where to acquire diethyl ether. Suppose I could try the starter fluid route, but several web sites indicate premium grade starter fluid has a 40-50 percent diethyl mixed with other petroleum distillants. I can use a hyperdermic needle to refill if I can find the right stuff.

Trying to rebuild a mechanical temp gauge. The hardware (bulb, capillary tubing and gauge) has been inspected and working, in essence no leaks. What is the fluid used in the bulb? Methyl Alcohol, Ether or a derivitive of Ether like dioxane?? For this application, would you want a lower boiling point or a high one? Some like Methyl Alcohol has a boiling point of 66 degrees C where dioxane has a point in excess of 300 degrees C. Would think a high boiling point would be better. Could this be as simple as just using the better grade starting fluid which uses diethyl ether? But diethyl ether has a boilding point of only 35 degrees C. Have seen the article on the Plymouth site, but doesn't say where to purchase the fluid.

Agree with Charlier suggestion to paint side walls white with high gloss enamel. The attached link is an article on trailering that includes a flooring rubber from Better Life Technology, Lenexa, Kansas: Antique and Classic Automobile Restoration: Tag Along Trailers Chris

I would consider a shop that specializes in mounting tires to aluminum rims, aka a high end shop. Their tire machines use an expanding gripper for the rim's lower (inside) section and the tire bead (arm) portion usually has a nylon cover that shouldn't scratch or chip the paint. There are also versions that the bead portion actually gets close the rim's endge, but doesn't touch it. No one wants to scratch a $400 alum rim! So far, I've used this approach, but admittedly, I mount my tires to primed wheels. I don't inflate them yet, paint the entire wheel/tire on a 4-6 RPM rotiseirre with short wooden dowls pushing the bead back a bit from the rim and when dry, remove the dowls and then inflate. The dowls pushing the bead back(down) ensures a gap where the paint gets inside the rim's edge. A large tire like a 650-700 X 19 for this Caddy is whole lot differant than a model A tire which is thin and likely to be more pliable.

In about 1967, a resident of South or West Orange New Jersey purchased a 1927 or 1928 Rolls Royce sedan (Phantom I??) from a salvage or used car lot, for about $100.00. He cut the sedan body off leaving the front seat, cowl and hood intact. He then bolted a refrigerator type box on the back, painted the whole thing white with either enamel house paint or Rustoleum and drove through the streets of the Oranges selling ice cream. The owner/operator was happy to pull the string to ring the bells as the kids flocked around the white Rolls Royce ice cream truck. Everything was going fine till the newspaper (Star Ledger I think) did a story about it and a copy was given to the RR dealer in Manhattan, NY who forwarded it on to RR in the UK. The RR staff in the UK were not amused and commissioned someone to purchase the make-shift ice cream truck. His orders were to do what ever it took to get that thing off the road. The first contact with the owner-operator was an offer of like $500. Each week the offer rose a couple of hundred dollars. The owners response was always the same “The kids love this truck and I need it for my business.” When the offer hit around $2,800, the guy succumbed feeling that was about the cost of a new truck. I can’t verify the story and I don’t have time to search the Star Ledger archives, but the story was handed down to me from a well known NJ based restorer & collector who has since passed. I believe it to be true. Would be great if anyone knows of it or better has a picture. I’m sure RR in the UK isn’t talking!

Steve, congrats on establishing a new family record with Franklins. No, not stupid. Doing what you love...Priceless!

Try wrapping the existing line with ceramic tape (part number CLO022) or ceramic rope (part number CLO021), available from Restoration Supply Company, Escondido, Calf. RSC

This would sort of be a nice oppurtunity to make or create one of your own design, perhaps based on a local dealer or the original dealer if known. Make the design out of clay on a flat surface and create a rubber mold of it. From there you can pour plastic into the rubber mold and either paint it or send it out for chroming. The below link is based on someone else's use of the Alumilite product for making distributor caps. Casting Resin and Silicone Mold Making Rubber

If you're going to try the "Trial and Error" method of matching, at least keep track of the formula you used. Custom colors afterall are a precise composition of standard colors. Note this is what shops like Finishmaster do (hence called the formula and is listed in both actual grams for each color and cummulated gram values). I use a postal scale set to grams mode to keep track of my changes. Start with a standard quart size in a sealable container, zero out or reset the scale and work in either two or four gram increments. Darkening a color by 2 or 4 grams in a 750 gram batch doesn't move the resultant color much, so be patient. Granted it took me about 27 times to get the color I wanted (started from scratch), but its the result I wanted. You could get the formula printed out from the paint shop for your particular match and alter the formula by increasing or subtracting a color or adding a bright or dark color before mixing, but this is a high risk approach. Once mixed, you own it.

Oldiron is essentially correct. The Lincoln multi disc clutch has eight steel disks with fingers into the flywheel housing and seven (or eight) double sided fiber drive disks that connect to the input of the trans shaft. A light layer of rust develops on the steel disks and locks the fiber and steel disks together. Slightly depressing the clutch for extended storage periods will minimize the locking of the disks together. Access is through the floor boards and clutch access plate on top of the bell housing. Fully disengaging the disks and cleaning them is a good start. Look carefully for the disks that are fused together and use solvent to soak the problem disks. Jacking up one drive wheel will ease turning the engine and clutch assembly to inspect the disks all around. Use the brakes and the drive line running with the clutch pedal engaged and disengaged to jerk the disks loose. Freeing them up just takes patience. Model L Lincoln owners in humid climates report this problem. The simple remedy is to use the car occasionally, say once every other month.

I too have used Kwik Poly for filling nail holes in wood. Good feature for Kwik Poly is its low viscosity (like water) which soaks into wood fibers before it hardens. Use small 3 OZ paper cups for mixing, disposable rubber gloves and "index finger over the stray" method to extract small amounts from the cans. Be sure to use seperate colored strays as not to contaminant the A and B parts of Kwik Poly. You may also have to use masking or duct tape to make 'mini troughs or dams on vertical surfaces.

I've used Skip before and was satisfied: Skip Boyer 1348 Carlisle Pike Hanover, PA 17331 (717) 632-0670 Richboy2@comcast.net

If the gauge uses the red fluid, it is the King Seeley type and several vendors offer replacement or repair kits. Buick's use the same type and Bobs Automobilia sells it: Bob's Automobilia Look for: GG-290 :29-30 Gas Gauge Kit (red fluid & tubing to tank) with instructions $ 30.00 Gas gauge red fluid and copper tubing repair kit with instructions. The main concept behind it is the red fluid has a density four times greater than gasoline which means it will respond to the gasoline's pressure in the tank at a rate of one fourth (one quarter). A four inch amount of gas in the tank translates to a one inch movement of red fluid on the glass tube. If the copper capillary tubing supplied in the kit isn't long enough for your Chysler, you could carefully solder two together using a brass sleeve from the hobby shop as a coupler or buy a long enough tubing from a commercial refrigeration supplier.

Taco Metals has the molding I'm looking for and in 12 foot lengths, but the shipping: $46 per length, $115 shipping. The hunt continues.....

Bob's Automobilia no longer carries the aluminum molding. The vendor didn't want to make it anymore, destroyed the dies and Bob's doesn't want to invest in a new set of dies. Other than Restoration Supply Company, is there a source for either 8 or 12 foot long lengths of half oval aluminum molding about 3/4 inch wide?? Chris

Suggest coming right off the battery with 10-12 gauge wire. This article may help as well. http://www.antiquemotoringclubofmonmouthcounty.com/images/6-12_Volt_Converters.pdf