Friartuck

Are you on the compression stroke, meaning valves closed?? As Rusty pointed out, Exhaust valve would be open......

Curt, Guess I learn something new every day. Basic 1/4 tubing from McMaster-Carr is rated at 2,148 psi in a soft annealed bendable version which surprises me. So the one you have at 3220 sounds reasonable. What product or vendor??

I'll chime in with my garage storage experiences. First, I value every square foot of real estate in the garage, so if it doesn't need to be in there, it goes in the basement (shop). The compressor stays in the garage (noise factor) with air lines run to the basement, but the glass beading cabinet, hydraulic press, lathe/mill, etc. are all in the basement. I bought vertical racks with wire baskets from IKEA for like $20 each for a four unit set (and they're stackable). They're available in open wire, cloth surround or full plastic versions. They're good for my machining accessories like cutters, knurling tools/wheels, etc. They can only hold about 20 pounds but not all parts are heavy, just bulky or small enough to keep in a single drawer. I also picked up a bakers cooling rack and made 30 drawers which house small parts.

Hydraulic systems can develop a lot of pressure (250+ pounds) and I don't think copper is rated for this application. I wouldn't trust copper.

Depends on how bad the sills are rotted and where. I ran across this problem with a '30's sedan where the rotted area was at the shims and no where else. I used Kwik Poly as a filler with thin plywood and wax paper to make a temporary mold. Fairly easy once you know what you're trying to repair. Article I wrote on this is at: Antique & Classic Automobile Restoration Tips PM me if you have questions or need more pictures, etc. Chris

I would suggest including contact info like phone number and/or e-mail address in both the post and your Profile for those who can help may contact you directly.

Phil, Perhaps wrapping some aluminum or duct tape around the base where the flaring tool grips the tubing. It should minimize the marks.

This site has an archive which includes an article on 6 to 12 volt converters, in .pdf format. metro_tech

Is the Bendix unit binding somehow? Are the starter bushings OK and is Starter mounted straight? I also would see electrical connections as a potential problem.

Perhaps this one hour video is the one being sought, available through the Packard club for $24.95. It advetised as being aired on PBS channels, so quite possibly the same: DVD Packard An American Classic Car [MI-08] - $24.95 : The Packard Club Internet Store

And just who is the U-Boat Commander??

Driving through very rural roads of Maine and stopped for gas. The attendant begins filling up the tank and notices the credit card in the customers hand. Attendant: "We don't take credit cards" Customer: "Oh he says" and puts it back in his wallet, "Why dont you take credit cards" asks the customer Attendant: "We dont have a credit card machine" Customer: "Couldn't you buy a credit card machine?" Attendant: "Don't need one, we don't take credit cards"

These should shed some light: http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1937-buick-voltage-regulator-conversion-278579.html http://www.1937and1938buicks.com/The-Torque-Tube/Volume%20XI%20Issue%201%20(September%201992).pdf http://www.1937and1938buicks.com/The-Torque-Tube/Volume%20XI%20Issue%202%20(October%201992).pdf http://www.1937and1938buicks.com/The-Torque-Tube/Volume%20XXII%20Issue%202%20(November-December%202003).pdf The DELCO units have their field terminals grounded through the regulator, not supplied with a voltage like other units.

Phil, Judging from the values you posted, you're getting a whopping + 3 Amps out of your generator. Adjusting the third brush does vary the generators output, but my experience has been about 4-6 amps differance from one extreme to the other (e.g. +13 to +18 amps). Sounds like you have a larger problem than adjustment of the third brush will manage. Best suggestion is to have the unit overhauled by a shop and make third brush adjustments under a reasonable load like with the head lights on, leaving 2-3 amps net charge. Output without lights would be about 12 amps.

I would use the bench procedure you outlined with one addition: Add some sort of load to the A terminal such as a bunch of 6 volt bulbs (in parrallel) or a single headlight along with the voltmeter. If you really wanted to be creative, simulate the regulator be placing a varible resistor in line with the Field terminal and note the actual voltages on F terminal and the output (A terminal). That way you'll have something to reference to when you put it back into the car and connect to the regulator. Let us know how it works out. Benefit of this Forum is sharing information and yes, pictures are always helpful. If you don't have a variable resistor available, you could use wire wound resistors (5-10 ohm) from your local radio shack by themselves or possibly with a series of small wattage 6 volt bulbs.

The regulator should be "throttling" the amount of current to the F terminal to regulate the generators output. The higher the amount of voltage (current) applied to the field, the higher the output from the armature lead. I don't know if your regulator does this proportionately or as a cut in or out. Suspect that by 1937 its proportionate. So yes, you should see a voltage on terminal F while running the car. Don't know what range of voltage that should be, perhaps 2-3 volts when the battery is fully charged and closer to 5 volts if the regulator is trying to charge a discharged battery. If bench testing the generator, I don't think a battery tender has enough current output to excite the fields propoerly, thus you have to use a battery.

My few comments: 1. When bench testing, are you exciting the field winding with an external voltage while spinning it? Absence of a voltage on the field would limit or prevent generator output (no voltage, no magnetic fields, no output). 2. Is there continuity in the field winding between the F terminal and ground? 3. Is this a third brush system where the field windings terminate on the commutator? 4. Have you checked to see if voltage is on the field windings while the engine is running? Is this supplied by the ignition or a seperate regulator?

Hope you realize that the date of 9 Oct is the annual car show held in Hershey, PA. It is this hobbies largest and considered our most holyest of days. Attendees will lie to their employers or call in sick, make up stories to their spouses/significant others and other excuses just to attend this world event. Lots of Luck.

Jay M Fisher 4B Acken Dr Clark, NJ 07066 United States 732-388-6442 Mail order only. Manufacturer of sidemount mirrors, 1900-1970, inside mirror restoration, windwing brackets, radiator caps, mascots, small parts fabrication, leather straps, restoration of any mirrors. Catalog, $2 cash plus 55� SASE. Jay Fisher (and wife) makes high quality mirror assemblies to include hinge pin variant.

For this very reason is why I like the car capsule, a vinyl bubble enclosure that is zippered shut with a small 12 volt "Boxer" fan that runs 24/7. It inflates the bubble and and keeps the air moving as there is some leakage out the zipper. Draws about 12 watts and available in indoor and out door versions.

David, Yet one more example with side curtains. Good luck and share with us the final project. Chris

The clock's mechanism maybe dry and in need of a good cleaning and lubrication which would be one explanation why the fuse blew in the first place. There is a horological school and museum in Columbia, PA which can service the clock at: Welcome to NAWCC As for fuses, search under Mouser Electronics: Mouser Electronics - Electronic Component Distributor

Tom, A couple of suggestions. 1. Repost this request in the electric vehicle section which is in OTHER VEHICLES under this Discussion Forum. You may find people in that section that you can contact directly as well. 2. Contact the AACA Research Center for a specific Marque like Baker Electric. 3. Find and/or contact someone who has one and visit it with the expectation of taking measurments to create drawings. Use Sketch-Up, Visio, or other Auto-CAD program to create drawings. 4. There is a reproduction vehicle of the 1901 Locomobile steam quadracycle that was created by a british company called the "Likamobile". Company basically out of business, but they may have drawings that maybe adaptable for your use. About 6-8 of these are here in the US. One US person has this link: Memories and Dreams: Likamobile Kit Chris

I would suggest repairing it yourself using Kwik Poly. Kwik Poly is a Polyol base and catalyst product that can be colored, sanded, and polished. It can be color tinted using dry pigment available mail order or at higher quality art supply stores. Pint kits are at $15.00. Home Page

Check to make sure the pedal is returning all the way in the up position.