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  1. Thanks. I did think 130 ft lbs was a bit high!
  2. What is 1.5 m Kg in ft. lbs? I found two calculators on the web; one says 130 ft lbs, the other 10.84 ft lbs. This is for some Citroen rod nuts.
  3. I'm replacing the connecting rod nuts on my 1924 Citroen engine. They do not use cotter pins, and were originally secured with punch marks on the nuts. Would red or blue Loctite be useful here? Phil
  4. Stan was the only guy I knew who specialized in brass-era carburetors. Most shops will not touch a carb unless they can get a rebuild kit. Phil
  5. Why not? Here are some instructions for building early car replicas: http://horselesscarriagereplicas.com/plans.html Also, I suggest the 1913 book "How to Build a Cyclecar" published by Temple Press. It's available as a reprint here: https://www.prewarcar.com/320394-how-to-build-a-cyclecar-reprint. Also, you could try building a "Fantom" cyclecar from plans published in Sweden. This is actually a velocar in that it uses pedals. However, you could add a 2-cycle engine! See the 2003 book "Folkhemmets Farkoster" (ISBN 91-7988-232-3)... then learn Swedish. Also, Didn't Dyke's Encyclopedia publish DIY automobile plans? Phil
  6. I suggest using yacht paint available from boating supply houses such as West Marine and Jamestown Distributors. These paints are designed for brush/roller application and produce a very nice finish. The suggested application is to use a small roller then lightly tip it over with a fine brush. Since they are designed for yachts, they are weatherproof and come in numerous classy tints. There are a few YouTube videos on application. Phil
  7. I also received 'high-roller" treatment from George when I ordered a hub puller for my Citroen. He would phone and speak of his car experiences, ask questions about my car, and describe how he made his pullers. The end product was so heavily built that it should last a thousand years. A real pleasure dealing with this man. Phil
  8. Do you belong to the AACA? If not, then join, find you nearest chapter and attend a meeting, bringing some photos of your truck. You should be able to get a couple guys interested enough to come over and look at it. That's how you would get your best advice. They will want to know if the engine turns, if the cylinders have compression, if the block is cracked, radiator clogged, etc. Find literature on the truck; there is a lot online. Also, check out the Chevrolet clubs. There are several of them. Finally, try to get to Hershey this Fall. You will meet people who share your interest there. Phil
  9. Yes, Bosch made the DU4 in adjustable and non-adjustable timing models. The adjustable spark will work fine if you add a control cable or rod (and remember to retard the spark when starting!).
  10. I had a similar problem in Texas. I purchased a car from the daughter of the deceased owner. This guy had "jumped" the title (ie, he never transferred it to his name). A helpful Texas title agent told me that the daughter could get the title in her name without a lot of trouble, and then sign it over to me. However, after much foot-dragging, the lady refused to help. I then hired a lawyer here in PA who got the title transferred to me in court. Cost was about $700. The bottom line: get a bill-of-sale with signature of the person named on the title. Go to a title agency with the seller, if possible. If there is no good title, then get the seller to procure one. If they cannot supply a correct title, then buy at your own risk!
  11. The Metz was not sold with an adjustable spark, and one is not really necessary. Be sure to set the spark a few degrees after TDC (top dead center). The timing is set with the gears from the crankshaft, so find the setting that gives you spark at TDC on the front plug (#1) and mark the flywheel. Then retard the timing by one tooth. You can check the timing with a battery-powered timing light against your mark on the flywheel. phil
  12. A very nice film of the Citroen factory in Paris about 1934. This factory was on the Seine very close to the Eiffel Tower. They manufacture the Traction Avant, the first mass-produced front wheel drive car. This car was made from 1934 to 1957. The body was stamped using a process licensed from the Budd Company in Philadelphia. Andre Citroen was a great fan of Henry Ford, and you can see how he adapted the assembly line. Note the very civilized lunch break; something Ford would not have approved! It's in French. Phil
  13. Sold for $427! These are being reproduced, I think, but it's nice to find an original. They were used on the Metz Model 25 radiator, but not the Model 22. Phil
  14. I looked on eBay under "Automobile coffee maker" and found dozens. They mostly work off the 12v cigarette lighter plug. The one in this thread is a nicer design, however. A coffee maker would make your car smell nice, but most people probably smoked a cig along with it. Phil
  15. I recall something like this mentioned a few years ago on the Forum. It turned out to be fake, and the guy lost his money. However, laser rust removal devices exist, and there are a number of videos to see. I think the rub is cost (like $80,000 - $480,000). Maybe the AACA could buy one and let me use it! Phil
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