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About MochetVelo

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  • Biography
    My first car (1968): 1929 Ford Standard Coupe. Now restoring 1921 Peugeot Quadrilette 161, 1913 Metz "22", 1911 Hupmobile "20".

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  1. UPHOLSTERY The Overland 83, even though an open car, was originally was produced with a grey wool upholstery. An Overland collector sent me a swatch from his original car. Here is what I have found in fabrics that are close. They're not cheap: $95-$120/yd. I calculate I'll need 10 yards. The original piece is in the center. Which would you choose? Phil
  2. Thanks. A few coats of paint can hide a lot of defects. I guess I'm lucky. Phil
  3. I got the fenders stripped. My sandblaster (Simpson's Metal Refinishing) turned down the air pressure and did a nice job removing the old lacquer and red primer. Some flaws were revealed, but overall not too bad. Phil
  4. I think the push rods had some pot metal and often failed. Mine were replaced at some point, I think. I'd be curious about any improvements. My Hupmobile also has the centrally-placed accelerator pedal. Phil
  5. It's my theory that automobile side curtain windows were made of celluloid rather than fish bladders or mica.
  6. I wonder how many cars used the friction-drive system. Cartercar started in 1905, but John W. Lambert patented the system Carter used in 1904. A few dozen makers followed, including Waltham, Metz, Sears, Lambert, etc. It would be interesting to search the "Standard Catalog" to see. Phil
  7. I also removed the fenders today. One had an amateur repair.
  8. I refinished 21 grease cup caps. There were three sizes. Six or eight more to go (i think; I keep finding more).
  9. The re-sealed gas tank looks much better, especially comparing the interior to the earlier photo I posted. The sealant directions said to add a little water to the remaining liquid and put it in the trash. Here is what I discovered a couple days later:
  10. Just thought I'd ask in case anyone has a Kwik-Lift car lift for sale. Phil (PA)
  11. The weekend was spent treating the fuel tank with POR-15 "Metal Prep" to ready it for the sealant. It's necessary for the tank to be "bone dry" before the sealer is applied, so I blew it out for several hours with a hot air gun. It sure looked dry, looking through the gas cap hole. However, baffles divide the tank into three sections, so I decided to de-solder the plug the previous restorer had placed on the tank. An old brass tag indicated the job had been done by a New Jersey radiator shop in 1963. I hesitated to do this when there was a possibility of explosion, but the clean-outs had eliminated all traces of gas. It turned out the repair tag covered another hole over the center "cell" of the tank. A look inside with a flashlight revealed it was still quite wet with the rinse water, and I was glad I hadn't applied the sealer. Phil Tag seems to say "04/07/63." However, on another hole was soldered a 1979 penny.
  12. Gas tank clean-out began yesterday. As per the photo above, the tank had been treated with an early sealant which was peeling off. I discovered the sealant dissolved readily in MEK solvent. After drying out the tank, I agitated a gallon of the solvent (a quart at-a-time) through the sealed tank, pouring out a liquid resembling cafe au lait. The MEK dries rapidly, so I was able to continue after lunch to vacuum out even more rust particles; perhaps 2 cups in all. The next step is the POR-15 fuel tank kit I purchased. Photos show the sealer after I drained it from the tank and the MEK has dissolved. It's still rubbery in texture. You also see me agitating the tank. Others have used cement mixers or the like. I'm getting a full work-out, however! Phil
  13. The rebuilt Bosch magneto arrived today from Mainely Magnetos. It had the coil rewound, new condenser, polished and repainted. Looks pretty. They also replaced the hardware store nuts with the correct brass nuts. Phil
  14. I use Citristrip. It's somewhat slower than methylene chloride strippers, but it works very well (at least on the old lacquer and enamel finishes) and doesn't burn your skin. Phil
  15. I agree. I ask because I've always seen fiber-reinforced rubber material used for this purpose (kind of like conveyor belt material). On the other hand, it would seem leather would also work. Phil