Friartuck

Dave, My experience in welding cast iron has varied. I have not found an abundance of welders willing to tackle it. However, in my search, I came across Muggyweld, a vendor that provides cast iron welding rods for both "dirty" and clean cast iron. "Dirty" #72 is defined as for use directly on exhaust manifolds. You can use the other rod #77 over the #72 weld and that second layer can be machined or ground as required. Muggyweld has a number of videos and articles on their website (http://www.muggyweld.com/castiron.html that should be viewed. I also posted an article based on my own experience at: http://www.monmouth.com/~friartuck/lincoln/welding_cast_iron/welding_cast_iron.html I don't consider myself much of a welder and yet I has able to do my own repair, so if you find a welder close to you, I think you can convince him to use the Muggyweld rods. Their pricey, like $70 for 10 rods, but the alternatives are slim. Remember to use the back-stich welding method. Any questions, contact me directly and good luck. Chris

Dave B. These are all good comments regarding the armature portion of your generator. I personally would resist putting it on a lathe unless absolutely necessary. Armatures don't normally go out of round that easily. The procedure described by Simplyconnected-Dave is one I've successfully used before. The one point I didn't see mentioned is after sanding/polishing is cleaning any debris between the armature contact segments, say using a toothpick and/or a cleaner with non-metallic brush. The basic part of why you're doing this is because it quit working. Two possibilities that I didn't see mentioned: Are both the armature and field coils good? The armature can be verified by your local electric shop in a bench test called a "growler" which simulates the magnetic fields. If the armature is shorted, then quite expensive to rebuild and only by someone experienced. The field coils also need to be verified that they haven't either broke a contact (open circuit) or shorted amongst themselves. Either of these two condtions will prevent the field coils from providing the required magnetic fields. And remember, the coil polarities alternate, meaning a north polarity coil is next to south polarity coils. You can verify this on the bench by powering the coils and passing a compass near the coil. portions of this article should apply to your generator: http://www.monmouth.com/user_pages/friar...-generator.html

Tim, Does a program like Solidworks allow you to import picture(s) that has a high contrast, and thus be able to make both 2D and 3D graphics. If at least a program allowed this and only needed 20 percent to "clean up the part", that would be better than starting a drawing from scratch. If this lithography method can be used for plastics that might work. Plastics can make good patterns for the casting process.

My first question is along the lines of Bob Kerr's: check the material composition. Think about what material they would have access to in the 1920's. Is it possible this could be thick and aged leather, like they wrap around lap robe bars in a touring car? The Kwik Poly suggestion is also good. Kwik Poly can be tinted using dry pigment, never liquid color agents. Dry pigment is available on some web sites. I've used powder coat colors successfully as a replacement for dry pigment. Make sure to get a nice uniform color mix in part A before adding part B and again, mix thoroughly. I would be concerned about maintaining the thickness with Kick Poly, though it can be sanded and buffed. I would think tinting is better than a surface coat of paint, though a little harder to do. I've never tried spraying Kwik Poly. The set up time would be hard. Here's a thought, what about sprayable pick up truck lining? It has a plastic-like composition. One brand name I know is Rhino Lining. It is relatively thick (1/16 to 1/8 ich), intended for outside/outdoor use, spayable, and can be masked off, and can be tinted. Check with local dealers and perhaps they'll shoot the handles while doing a regular customer job. Chris

Before everyone leaves, floor creepers and tool chests must be pointed towards Derry Township (Central PA). These after all are the high Holy days of Hershey!

I made the same assumption that Matt did! Based on the title, I was expected to see a couple of Adirondack chairs or a love seat slider with flowers and wind chimes. Then again, I was also hoping to have picked the right six numbers in the right week by now too. Ahhh Damn, he does have wind chimes. Should have looked harder. Sorry Barry

David, You have a few options. Restoration Supply Company in California (http://www.restorationstuff.com) has Red Fiber Block to make your own or they have an already made fuse block, both on page 8 of their catalog. Also, they sell lug terminals on page 5. Another option is to make the block out of black Delrin plastic, available from Small Parts (www.smallparts.com) or Mcmaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com). Small Parts has good pricing for small quantities. For the terminals that hold the glass fuse, try Newark Electronics or Mouser Electronics (http://www.mouser.com) You may have to buy the whole plastic fuse block and carefully unrivet the metal terminals. Not sure how accurate you have to be, but perhaps mounting the fuse block from Restoration Supply onto their red fibre board will be acceptable to you. Use ring terminal lugs where possible instead of spade versions and don't forget to solder the connections to the lugs. Good Luck.

A traveling salesman stops at a 1940's vintage one pump, one stall gas station in a very rural part of Maine. While the attendant is filling the tank, the saleman pulls out his credit card from his wallet. The attendant says "sorry sir, but we don't take credit cards". The saleman nods to acknowloge him and asks "why don't they have a credit card machine". Attendant replies, "Don't need one, we don't take credit cards"

A Snake Oil that works, for fuel systems and oil compartments: Sea Foam http://www.seafoamsales.com/

Our deepest condolences to the Hansen family from his antique auto friends in central New Jersey. We were first acquainted to Fred and the family when we were introduced through Jess Jordan where they stayed at the Scandinavian Hotel in Meyerstown, PA. That was when Fred started attending the fall car flea market and auto show in Hershey, Penn which he regularly attended. That was 20 plus years ago and when Eric was just a lad. Fred was looking for Chandler parts along with studying other Ford model A cars for tips on how to restore his. Jules and Terry Baron fondly remember their vacation to Niagara Falls a few years ago which brought them through Seneca to meet with Fred and the family. We were delighted to see the second Chandler car he recently bought and was able to share with the family. Fred’s mild and soft spoken manner will be very, very much missed. Jules Baron Jess Jordan Chris Wantuck Bruno Hornung Sonny Zuchniewicz Ken Clayton The below picture was taken at the Fall Hershey meet in 2007. Fred, Jan, Jess Jordan and of course the Chandler.

The correct bright finish would have been nickel in 1926. Chrome didn't start until 1927 on some models and by 1929-1930, virtually all went to chrome. Some closed cars stayed with nickel for inside handles, etc for a few more years. The decision whether to go nickel or chrome is not an easy one. The nickel finish, with its sort of light amber hue, makes that vintage car look stunning. Done in chrome, it sort of looks awkward. Nickel however requires extensive upkeep whereas chrome is easier. Whatever your decision, make it consistent, either all nickel or all chrome. The one noted exception is the cigar lighter, it should be nickel regardless. I personally would go with nickel. And make up soft cotton bags to go over the headlights during storage, like the brass era collectors use.

Either Jon or Chuck Conrad.

I would consider using Kwik Poly as a sealer. Kwik Poly has a low viscosity, the consistency of water, which allows it to soak into wood fibers. It sands easily and can be layered if needed. http://www.kwikpolyllc.com/

SolidAxle, The model L series did use a Stewart-Warner vaccuum tank fuel delivery system. It protrudes through the firewall only a little, but the bulk of it is behind the firewall. It holds almost a full gallon and does gravity feed into the carb. Thre are clear pictures of this vaccuum tank on the driver's side at: http://www.monmouth.com/user_pages/friartuck/lincoln/engine_detail/engine_detail.html There is supposed to be a shut off valve just above the floor boards in the center on the inside under the dash. I have never seen a primer, but there is a screen filter on the inside of the driver's side frame rail, just under the front seat area. Trace the fuel line if it hasn't been tampered with, should be near the radiator overflow tank. Chris

Chrome Jim, I'll ask a few questions: 1. I'm considering a restoration on a pre-1927 vehicle which looks outstanding in Nickel. The hue in Nickel really sets off nicely for this vehicle, a roadster. Is there any nickel plating version or method that reduces or prevents oxidation? I've heard of tales of Nickel plating (I think in Canada) that offer a Nickel finish that requires little to keep up the bright lusterous finish. Watts Nickel?? Any truth or comment? Suggestion for maintaining nickel finish? 2. Can any real savings be realized if parts are sent to the plater already ground and polished/buffed? Care to put a percentage of savings against this? 3. Since most people can't strip plating off of parts at home, if there danger in doing repairs on parts where some light sanding/grinding was performed to accomodate the repair? In essence could someone do more harm than good? 4. Do you place any value on a customer that takes pictures of parts and includes them so that they can be used for quality control during the plating process? Would you give a customer a slight discount for doing this, and if so what format is best, digital on a CD or hard copy? Chris

Turtle Wax Bug and Tar Remover, in the spray can.

Steve, I just wrote an article on this topic and is posted at: http://www.monmouth.com/~friartuck/6-12Converter.pdf Since the article was published, another vendor was discovered that also has converters/inverters: http://www.radiosforoldcars.com/powerF.htm Keep in mind the most important issue is to not run the 12V accessory while the car is not running (recharging the battery). The current draw for 6V to 12V can drain the battery quickly. Chris

One suggestion are the vendors that work with fraternal organizations like the Elks or Knights of Columbus. They make very nice pins in exquisite detail in Cloisonne Enamel and other finishes using your artwork for about $1.25 each (qty=250). They tend to make their products small, 1.25 inches. Perhaps they can make them larger, 1.5, 2 or 3 inches since all orders are on a custom order basis and maybe they can offer it with a machine screw instead of a pin and clasp. I've used Emblematics successfully for many years. http://www.emblematics.com/index.html http://www.cheappins.com/ http://www.pincentives.com/index.html http://www.janway.com/default.htm

Article on 6 to 12 volt converters http://www.monmouth.com/~friartuck/6-12Converter.pdf Chris

Harry, Consider using pourable/moldable rubber from Devcon. Sells by the tradename Flexane 80, available through Grainger or McMaster-Carr. For making molds or patterns of an existing part, consider Smooth-on plastics in Easton, PA. They sell flexible rubber for making the mold around an existing part, then use their liquid plastic to make the pattern from the Smooth-On rubber mold. Use the plastic pattern for making the Flexane rubber part you want. Flexane also sells Flex-Add to lower the durometer (harderness) number. Don't forget to use ample amounts of mold release spray, and preferably not Pam. And BTW, some harder rubbers can be machined and/or sanded, so if you find something close, final shaping is possible on an expanding wheel sander. Chris

71Pacer, The Lincoln club here in the US just did a run of 20 ring & pinion gear sets for 1928 through 1934 Lincolns at a group rate of $1,550 each. The original was at a ratio of 4.58:1 and many years ago, a ring & pinion gear set was designed at a ratio of 3.77:1. What we found was that 3.77 ratio went too far and the engine did not rev enough and the car lost power. A new ratio of 3.96:1 was recently designed and manufactured. Lesson: take care when selecting new ratios.

Alan, In 1930 covered wooden trunks were used in this time period, though I believe a few metal versions appeared, especially for Cadillac. Metal became more common by mid to late '30's. I have only seem metal trunks that are painted. Covered ones are wooden. A source for thin leatherette is either Gane Brothers book binding supplies Gane Brothers or Brettruns village trunk Chris

Bob Anzalone's version does not include the three contoured notches that some filters used. Probably not significant. Also wanted to mention that generic (no name) oval decal is available from Osborne Reproductions in Georgia. They specialize in decals. Be careful when getting the decal. A number of round and oval ones have "Packard" on it. Not much help if you have a Pierce Arrow, Lincoln or other car. My filter looks like this:

The darkened window is a good solution versus the stainless panel. The blue for the Mark II works for that car, but not for this project. Either the very dark blue or black.

For color, the blue is too bright for this type of vehicle. A few shades darker blue or just go black. As for the stainless panel, I think it breaks-up the side too much. I liked the black panel version and even the coach light. But I do note that the addition of the stainless trim added to the mid-section window does make the stainless panel work. The turbine wheels are fine. Chris