Friartuck

1. Gardner-Westcott in Michigan 2. Restoration Supply in Escondido, Calf 3. Microfasteners in Lebannon, NJ A #4 that long might be tough.

This is a grease cup for a teens era car and need an identical one for an upcoming show. It's 7/8 inch across the flats and thread is 24 TPI. Please look through your odds and ends drawer as someone may have it. Contact Jeff Morton directly at (732) 216-4409 or email: jmorton732@comcast.net

A point that hasn't been emphasized enough is the dryness of the media you choose. It must be bone dry, Arizona desert sand dry, dryer than a dry martini, etc.... There is nothing more frustrating than have to stop, pull off the hood, remove pressure from the can, remove nozzle, and clear out the clog or blogage due to moist sand (about 10 minutes of down time). Same applies to small pebbles mixed in the sand bag, so double sifting is highly recommended. I actually prep the sand by putting it in a stainless steel kitchen pan and place it on the BBQ grill and heat it, which drives out the moisture. The sand should flow through your fingers and the canister and hose must also be dry. Adding a water seperater right at the canister also traps moisture as prolonged blasting usually has the compressor heating the air and then condensing on the cooler air hose. I also think you can be as successful operating at 40 Lbs than running at 100-120 Lbs of pressure.

Bernie, Perhaps premature, but nonetheless, how do you plan to finish the aluminum screw-on hubcaps? Leave natural cast and just paint the inside or were you thinking about sanding them smooth and polishing to a medium to high luster? Chris W.

Would have thought making up a simple wooden pattern and sending out to an Amish caster who pours cast iron would be simplest. Probably have just half a drum full of cuttings.

Phil, The mixing of the color using weight is right. Its a method that provides consistency for the final color. When I tint and custom mix my base colors, I too use weight, using a digital postal cale set to grams and keep track of the amount and eventually arrive at cumulative numbers for each color. When it comes to mixing the paint and reducers & hardners, then its by volume. I too want to look into the PPG line. I was only aware of the Concept line. Maybe someone can expalin the differance between this DelFleet and Concept. Think both are single stage urethanes. Chris

These ratios should be by volume, not weight.

King Seeley housings available at: King Seeley and Hobson Fuel Gauge Parts and Supplies

Would it be possible to have a metal spinner spin up some reflectors out of stainless of appropriate diameter and curve profile and polish them? Just a thought.....

Restoring steering wheels has come up before. Using Kwik Poly is suggested as it is very fluid and can be tinted with dry pigments. Use masking tape around areas to be filled as if it were a dam. If you create two batches of differant colors and time the mixing right, you can do base color and accent color swirls or any combo needed. This article shows the result of accents in photogragh 2: http://www.metroccca.org/tech_articles/tech_07_winter.pdf Kwik Poly can be sanded and buffed so you don't get that "paint" feeling on your hands. The colors are embedded in the material. Kwik Poly: Home Page Chris

There is a parts manual that has been scanned and can be down loaded on one of the Packard websites. That one is a PDF of 81 pages. The e-bay one is cited at 374 pages, so it would seem theres more to that one. The e-bay one says it covers 1922-1928 (1st through 5th series whereas the downloaded one is 1st-3rd series.

Bernie, The oil pan nuts are plain brass, longer than normal, perhaps 3/8-1/2 inch long with lock washers. The length of the nut is long enough to conceal the threads of the stud. Makes sense given the amount of debris the oil pan was likely to experience and don't want to damage the stud's threads. I disagree with Bill Boudway's advice on the block and cylinder head nuts. Block to crankcase nuts are always regular nuts with lock washers. They can be either nickel plated or polished stainless. The cylinder head nuts for these early series Packards use regular nuts which can also be either nickel plated or polished stainless with flat washers, not acorn. Packard did not use acorn nuts on cylinder heads till least 4th series, and possibly 5th series. This is clearly shown in the owners manual, parts listing, and several original surviving Packards. I also confirmed this with the late Packard restorer Jimmy Tuschinsky (New Jersey) when I pulled my cylinder head to change the head gasket and he warned me about not using acorns. Using acorns would be an example of non-authentic restoration, as cited by Matt Hinson above. Chris W.

Bernie, FYI, the oil pan on my 3rd series six is natural aluminum with brass nuts. Chris

Harry, This article may help you. http://www.metroccca.org/tech_articles/tech_09_winter.pdf The intent was to make a pattern and make any modifications to the pattern (if necessary) without damaging or risk losing the original part. Chris W.

Bernie, I do not have this bracket on my early (June 1925) 3rd Series six Runabout. The only thing next to the vaccuum tank is the roundish cover and conduit for electric leads from behind the dash through the firewall and down to the chassis frame. Chris

The repair looks good. Restoration Supply Company sells brass threaded Rivets, also called unslotted screws. Easier to buy a few at $0.50 than time on the lathe: RSC Chris

Bernie, Thanks for the lead on the brass water jacket. Regarding the water pump, I would like to see what you propose for a modern water seal. I tried using a modern seal for a vintage water pump and I find myself having to go back to the regular stuffing gland material. Fortunately there is only the water pump & fan on that belt/pulley, so the bushing and seal aren't that stressed. May I also suggest using an arc welding rod specially made for cast iron instead of building up with bronze....Muggy Weld in Washington state here in the USA has photos and videos on repairing cast iron and specific article (photos) on a cast iron water pump. The resultant welds machine well. Muggy Weld, LLC Specialty Alloys and Electrodes Chris W.

Bernie, What was the vendor where you purchased this water jacket? I'll probably need one in a year or so when I start working on my 3rd series. Next question, do those holes line up to be between the cylinders or exactly at the cylinder. The logic is water between cylinders carries the heat away whereas water directed at the cylinder might create a cold spot on the cylinder wall. Given the number of holes it sort of begs the question: Shouldn't there be one extra hole close the front?. Perhaps there's enough water splashing around the front where that's not needed. I think I answered my own question, well sort of anyway. If you use the small 1/4-20 screw holes around the water jacket's perimeter as a gauge against the side view of the engine, the four water holes line up between the cylinders towards the rear of the block. But shouldn't there be a fifth hole to push water between the first two cylinders?? Chris W.

Brad, I use a vent free Comfort Glow for may basement shop area which does not have any gas fume concerns. Its rating is 10,000 BTU input and output is only 5,000 BTU. It barely takes the chill out of a semi insulated basement. In your description of your shop area, I think installing insulation would be a good investment. A shop of 400 Sq Ft with poor insulation requires 45,000 BTU/HR whereas the same fairly well insulated area requires 15,000 BTU/HR. The 20K unit you bought will probably struggle to keep up your "half insulated shop". Can you install 2 inch thick rigid foam insulation on the outside walls and on the door?? The seams should be either tongue and groove or ship lap joints. I suggest rigid foam to avoid having to build out a wall and use conventional fiberglass. Store the gas outside and drain the mower (not needed during winter anyway).

F/S: One Audi shop manual for 84/85 Fox, Last few pages have water damage, $5 plus actual shipping to your area. Chris (732) 530-1917, Central New Jersey.

There is also Owl's Head Transportation Museum, about 5 miles south of Seal Cove on the mainland.

My suggestion is basically been presented. Using a computer graphics program like Photoshop or Paint Shop Pro, recreate the black lettering and gauge's scale. Print on regular paper to get font, size and scale correct. There are two printing methods instead of the bumper sticker vinyl. The shade of the vinyl may not match to the paint. Print on clear Laser labels and cut to fit which will only print the black and not have the white mismatch. Another alternative is to use a color ink jet printer. There is a kit (spray) available that lets you make water soluable decals using printings from an ink jet printer. The clear label is probably the easiest. Chris

Barry, You have figured it our correctly. It's not the insensity of the filiment, but is location within the parabolic geometery that makes it a Low & High Beam. The upper filiment is low beam. If the head light bucket has an adjusting screw in the back, that also moves the filiment within the parabolic to focus the beam. A 50 CP bulb should not have fried the switch contacts, but support your use of a shunting relay. Chris

There is a collector in NJ who has a 1923 model C 750 GPM Stutz Pumper Truck, an award winning restoration that was even featured in a Snap-On calendar within the past few years. Likely, one Stutz owner may know of others: Ed Burdge, 597 Branch Avenue, Little Silver - (732) 741-5841

The brass is probably getting porous and replacements are likely to be just as bad. Get or make a new one. This source offers cylindrical floats for the Schebler which may fit: Schebler Model S Carburetor Float - 1 3/4 x 1 1/4 Spinning the two halves and soldering them should be doable. Be careful of replacements that the final float level is adjusted correctly, taking into account weight increases, etc if either a new float is created or a coating applied.