DavidAU

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About DavidAU

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 07/18/1944

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Brisbane, Australia
  • Interests:
    Vintage and Brass cars, High performance classic cars

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  1. It should only have 1. I think the other maybe on there as a spare as they seem to be somewhat unreliable these days and the old originals like you have are well past their use by date. You could have a look at C & G Ford parts web site and see what they have as they are a very good supplier of Ford parts or go to your local parts supply and get a new one that that will fit on to the distributer. Just make sure it is approx. rated at about 22 mfd. Also get a spare to keep in the car. https://cgfordparts.com
  2. This is from the instructions for a Bosch ZF4 which is very close to a DU4 The magneto is driven by a transverse shaft and is connected by a Simms coupling. This coupling has 19 teeth on one side and 20 teeth on the other, which gives a vernier adjustment so that a very minute adjustment may be made by altering the position of the fibre centre piece. Make sure from time to time that the contact breaker gap is between 15/1000 in. and 18/1000 in.
  3. The pre-war Rolls Royce method is to insert the cotter pin so the head is hard down in the nut groove, grip the other end with pliers and twist it 90 degrees then bend the ends back around the sides of the nut. Finally the ends are cut to size, bent at 90 degrees inwards and pushed into the nut slot where the pin came through the bolt. Why such a complicated method? It is to stop the chauffeur cutting his hands when he is washing down the car and cleaning the exposed nuts on the suspension etc.
  4. https://rroc.org.au/wiki/images/5/57/20_25_Owners_Handbook_Part_9.pdf
  5. I'm with DavidMc but I would also wash it out thoroughly with detergent and water first and then fill it full of water before I drilled it and when I soldered it.
  6. I think if it was for a Bentley it would be a bit wider and triple laced.
  7. Contact gilletman on this forum. I think he is in Holland and seems to have a fair knowledge of those cars. You will find his latest post further down the forum titled "Pre War Rally"
  8. I'm with JFranklin above. Clear sheetmetal type Silicone is the best. I spent many years as a metal Roofing contractor and I've seen metal flashings that have been out in the weather (read HEAT) for 20 - 30 years where I live and you have to cut the silicone to separate them. If you stick the badge on with that it will never fall off. I might also add that it is the best thing for sealing exhaust gaskets, manifolds and exhaust pipes as it does not burn. Far better than the expensive exhaust sealer you can buy in tubes.
  9. Just a thought about the curve in the top of the bow. How about slitting a 2mm saw cut in the centre of the bow from one side to the other ( you could even leave a couple of mm of wood on the bottom side so it couldn't be seen from underneath) and insert a straight or curved up piece of 2mm thick steel or stainless ie. 25 x 2 mm across the full width. Through bolt or screw it and cover the ends of the threads so they are hidden and that should hold it straight. Sorry about the size of the sketch
  10. Great job. You wont want to drive it when it's finished in case it gets dinged.
  11. To me, the fact that it is screwed through the face of the badge and that it has the badge makers name on the back says it didn't come off a car as all the car badges I've seen are clipped or use adhesive from the rear. Also GM certainly wouldn't have someone elses name on their stuff. I would think it is probably off a Caravan or boat or similar
  12. This may work https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=1964+Glidden+Tour