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About KenHupp20

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  1. Repairing the block sounds doable.You might look for someone who knows Muggy weld,it’s a brand of rod for cast iron and does away with all the heating,cooling issues.Those bottoms to the block are quite thin,maybe some gussets could be added to strengthen them. Well good luck. Ken p.s. I think I used a very thin paper gasket and Hylomar anaerobic sealant.
  2. Tom can you pm your address?I have a copy I can send.
  3. It might be best to start with measuring the crank and the bores to see if they have been machined before.I think there are places that can bring back to original size,but that may not be needed. If the cylinders need boring I’ve been told it’s important to radius the top to relieve stress. Good luck with the work. Ken
  4. I might be able to dig something up for you. Ken
  5. Congratulations Eric,you will have fun with the car. I look at BaT most every day,fun,and there is a lot to learn from some of the comments.Nice to see brass era cars getting some traction there. Ken
  6. Look closely at the drawing of p/n 247. I think you need to make a new bushing,I think it should be the total length of the gears.Yours looks sheared off.Looked at one again,there seems to be two pieces(?) to the bushing,or one piece with an oil groove.You will find out when you press it out. Ken
  7. Let’s see if I can do this....
  8. That pin holds the two gears together,bronze hub in between. Parts number 247,248,249,250.Eight pins (248). Ken
  9. Thread repair file has 11,12,13,14,16,20,24 tpi,it’s a flat file to use on the male threads.Try google or YouTube,very handy tool.
  10. Thread files are darn handy too.
  11. Tom,Ithink the hole at top of cylinder is how it was cast.Went straight up through to hold a core for the rough bore and cavity for valves. Holes were plugged somehow after. Ken
  12. Uh oh,not good.Keep us posted.
  13. Wow, very nice looking.Do you have a photo showing how it came from the printer,before polishing?
  14. Good stories. Makes the hobby fun.I had a ride with John Lothrop in the Corbin,wow! Drove it like he was a teenager in a sports car.He was a very talented man,could build anything in his basement. Please keep us posted Tom,and good luck.If you do have to get the cam out it was suggested to me to make a locating jig before removing the babbitt.Luckily,I did not have to do one.Also there has been some previous discussion on the cam babbitting on this forum.One of the gentlemen from down under.
  15. Hi Tom, I think my pistons are Jahn’s,but not positive.I do think you want to go with new aluminum. As David mentioned the cam could be a nightmare.Do you have a really good shop to do Babbitt? I think there are several places to have the cam done,but getting it back in the side plate is the big one. How is the engine otherwise,crank,the cylinder bores,valve guides,the main,rods? Ken
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