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KenHupp20

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About KenHupp20

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  1. I was thinking along the same lines as David.The only hitch I can think of now is the threads at bottom. Another approach depending on condition of your existing might be to have them reground,then bushings made to that I.D.
  2. Unique! Looks like you still need to get left fender back on still. Cheers,
  3. Repairing the block sounds doable.You might look for someone who knows Muggy weld,it’s a brand of rod for cast iron and does away with all the heating,cooling issues.Those bottoms to the block are quite thin,maybe some gussets could be added to strengthen them. Well good luck. Ken p.s. I think I used a very thin paper gasket and Hylomar anaerobic sealant.
  4. Tom can you pm your address?I have a copy I can send.
  5. It might be best to start with measuring the crank and the bores to see if they have been machined before.I think there are places that can bring back to original size,but that may not be needed. If the cylinders need boring I’ve been told it’s important to radius the top to relieve stress. Good luck with the work. Ken
  6. I might be able to dig something up for you. Ken
  7. Congratulations Eric,you will have fun with the car. I look at BaT most every day,fun,and there is a lot to learn from some of the comments.Nice to see brass era cars getting some traction there. Ken
  8. Look closely at the drawing of p/n 247. I think you need to make a new bushing,I think it should be the total length of the gears.Yours looks sheared off.Looked at one again,there seems to be two pieces(?) to the bushing,or one piece with an oil groove.You will find out when you press it out. Ken
  9. Let’s see if I can do this....
  10. That pin holds the two gears together,bronze hub in between. Parts number 247,248,249,250.Eight pins (248). Ken
  11. Thread repair file has 11,12,13,14,16,20,24 tpi,it’s a flat file to use on the male threads.Try google or YouTube,very handy tool.
  12. Thread files are darn handy too.
  13. Tom,Ithink the hole at top of cylinder is how it was cast.Went straight up through to hold a core for the rough bore and cavity for valves. Holes were plugged somehow after. Ken
  14. Wow, very nice looking.Do you have a photo showing how it came from the printer,before polishing?
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