oldcar

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About oldcar

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  • Birthday 11/09/1936

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  1. I will answer Al first as I will need to take some photographs for Mike which I will set up later. Al; I usually either use pre painted tube or if time permits paint the frame, Most steel tube is treated with some form of galvanising. I have never had a problem with my welded joints. For heavy gauge steel I tend to use Electric (arc) welding. I am waiting for my order for steel tube to be delivered on Monday (tomorrow). so I will take some photographs then. Bj
  2. Thank you both JV and Mike. It is interesting that virtually all the Singers shown on the video were 9hp. by the most common and widely used of all Singers. I think that with the exception of one 1935 "Bantam" I have never owned a Singer "9". That particular Bantam had three lives during my ownerships. It had started life as a 2 door Saloon but what above all else made it different was the Chassis Number , which identified it as the very first Bantam to be built. LC-00001 That it has an "earlier "Junior" radiator was simply a matter of convenience, and what I had on the "shelf" at the time. Oh, yes, it is the same car.
  3. Thank you "Merrill" Frank Dale and the one "other" I appreciate your "Thumbs up" but no one answers my questions. This leads me to believe that no one really understands what I am trying to do. Of course I did not include the "before" photographs of the Austin 12/Six featured above. I will include them now. Virtually all my "rebuilds" come into my carport is similar condition to this Austin. My current project the 1935 Singer 11 while perhaps not quite as derelict adds to its degree of difficulty by virtue of its extremely advanced (for a 1930s Singer) specification. Incidentally, the Austin featured in these and previous photographs has now been painted Black for it new role as an "ICE & SNOW" Racer in Switzerland. Bernie j.
  4. Hi Frank You have to realise these things take time, I am sorry you will just have to wait. BUT please consider that what I am attempting to replicate is a typical ENGLISH 2/4 seater sporting tourer from the Early to Mid 1930s. Remember too that I do not use an English Wheel, so no "compound curves". Perhaps a slightly larger version of the Austin 12/Six (as in the photographs) is about the best description I can give you for now. Even "simple" bodies like this one takes time. Being a 2/4 seater (longer wheel base) the Singer should have a door on the passenger side. In the second photograph you can just see the rear of the Lagonda Rapier so this should give you a "clue". They are all from the same 1930s period. Take a look at the square tube "body frame" in the first photograph. every piece of tube had to be cut and fitted by hand, every joint gas welded using a hand held oxy-acetylene torch. All this by the one pair of 80+ year-old hands. I have used this same process for every "body" I have built in the past 50/60 years. Some people will never learn. Most other people just sign the cheques............... Have a think about it, I even make the little things such as the dash-board "Glove-box". None of these things are delivered to the door "ready made". Just the 6 metre long, lengths of steel tube. and sheets of aluminium. Perhaps this will be the "Last one ever". Bernie j No offence meant, but having re-read the above, I cannot help wondering how many people, if any, can truly appreciate what I am doing?
  5. Thank you all for your input, of course the ultimate example of this tax avoidance were the small SIX cylinder British cars in the early 1930s.. Most of the British manufacturers built one. In 1930-36 Austin had the 12-Six with a 61.25mm Bore. Hillman in 1928-32 went one better with their 8 cylinder Vortic 63mm Bore. In 1929 for just one year Humber had their Six-50, 65mm Bore. Lanchester had a Light Six, in 1933-37 with a 57mm Bore. MG worked their way through the Alphabet starting with their L type, then K and N, Magnettes all with the same 57mm Bore. Morris followed suit with their 10-Six also 57mm Bore. Riley produced their version with the 14-Six and Stelvio 1929-34, 60.3mm Bore and the MPH 1934-5 with a 57mm Bore. In 1932 Rover had their 6 cylinder Pilot 12, 59mm Bore. Singer also joined in with their 1933, 14hp, 60mm Bore. In 1933 Standard introduced their "Little 12" with a 57mm Bore. Talbot not wanting to be left out had a 12/30 as early as 1922-24 again with a 57mm Bore. In 1932, Triumph produced their 12/16 with a 56.5mm Bore. Even Vauxhall by 1934 under General Motors rule produced their "Light Six" with a 57mm Bore. Not wanting to left out, in 1931 Wolseley produced the Hornet Six, 57mm Bore. I am sure that their must be one or two I have overlooked and I do hope I have not bored you with all this. Now back to my current project, the 1935 Singer 11hp with just Four Cylinders and 66.5mm Bore. I am about to order the steel tube for my body frame. I find it is better to construct this onto the chassis BEFORE I clean and paint it. This way I avoid the risk of damaging the new paint. I build the body frame straight onto the frame and then remove it to paint the chassis later. The first step is to fit the radiator, so I know the height to build the scuttle to. BUT wait I am reminded that I must look at lowering the rear springs before I do anything else. Even before I do that I must have a clean and tidy in the garage so I can start work without the need to be constantly moving "stuff" to create some "elbow room". It is now just after 10.oo AM and I have yet to open the garage door! Bernie j.
  6. Thank you Matthew Singer really went overboard with the 11hp. If you go back a little you will see that in addition to the Independent Front Suspension, it has both a Fluid Flywheel and a Twin Plate Clutch together with a Free-wheel. All in pursuit of a Clutchless Gear-change. Unfortunately all this made it so expensive that it, "Priced itself out of the market". All this meant that it sold in very small numbers, with the resulting extremely low number of survivors. With regard to shortening the chassis, in addition to the extensive X members the chassis tapers throughout its length so that at no point are the side members parallel. Bj.
  7. Quite unlike most English Chassis frames from the 1930s, the Singer 11hp was incredibly strong and extremely well thought out, with far more attention to detail, diagonal bracing etc than most of its contemporaries. Apart from anything else this would render the task of "removing a few inches" virtually impossible. At 8'5" the wheelbase is virtually the same as its contemporary Rileys, and less than six inches longer than most MGs. The Austin 12hp of the same period (1932/5) was more than 6 inches longer. The comparable 1937 Wolsley 10hp was virtually the same length, just one inch shorter. The body I intend to build will be essentially a Two Seater with an "Occassional Seat" in the rear for two small children or one large dog. I already have a mental picture of the body I will build but the rest of you wiil just have to "wait and see". As with all my "bodies" in the past it will be built "free-hand" without the benefit of complicated drawings etc. As has been described by someone in the past, "Flying by the seat of my pants." Not that it really matters, I doubt that you will be disappointed! Also attached are photographs of three of my earlier (8hp) Singers. While it may not be immediately apparent, I have developed a technique of building bodies that do not have any "compound curves" and so do not require the use of an "English Wheel". I do not make any excuses, ALL my bodies and built on welded, square section steel tube frames, all "gas" welded. Bernie j.
  8. Good Morning, Some people may be puzzled by my use of the term "Basket Case". This goes back to the Battlefields of Northern France during WW1. Most of the action took place in trenches and the opposing Artillery Fire. Troops were literally "Blown out of the ground". Stretcher bearers sent out to recover the wounded were said to need to use "Large Baskets" in which to collect all the pieces of some of the victims. Likewise it could be said that I may need to use a large basket in which to bring home all the various "loose" parts of the cars to restore! Bernie j.
  9. Hello Jeff I will take some photographs of the chassis tomorrow. You will then be able to understand why I have decided to abandon any thought of using the "Morgan" body. I have now advertised it for sale on the "PreWarCar" website. I will, once I have sorted out the engine and transmission, make a start on a new body of my own design and construction. Ultimately this will be a far more satisfactory answer to getting the car drivable and after so many years in the wilderness back on the road. Slowly slowly I hope to unravel its history. I suspect that it may not have been driven since the end of WW2. i.e. 1945. Perhaps even before then. I get a great deal more satisfaction from building a new body from the ground up. You will just have to be patient. To give any doubters some idea of what is possible, this 1924 Riley, and the 1932 Austin 12/Six, below, are just two examples of my "bodies". I am sorry but I do not have a "before" photograph of the Riley but I can assure you that it came "home" in very much the same state as virtually all my "Basket Case Rescues".
  10. Hello Mike It looks like an early Morgan and the vendor assured me that he had bought it as being for an early Morgan. Beyond that I do not know. All that I do know is that I will NOT be using it and would like to sell it. It comes with a pair of doors that look as though they will fit it, after some slight adjustment. Bj.
  11. Having had the chance to "sleep on it" I woke up this morning with the realisation that while the idea is good, the actual Morgan body is far too small for the chassis. The Morgan body came with the chassis as part of the deal. It will now be offered for sale. This means going back to the drawing board. This also means that once again I will be building my own two seater body on the chassis. This will marginally slow down the project (slightly) but I am sure that it is the only way to go. I am also sure that I will have no trouble in finding a new owner for the Morgan body. Before I make a start on that; I have some work to do on the motor, brakes etc. That and I really need to sort out some wheels before I do anything else. Having said all that, I will not be letting any grass to grow under my feet! I have a projected finish date sometime around my 85th Birthday. Not as far away as you may think! Bernie j.
  12. While this may not look very much, it is a major leap forward with the "car" now securely "at home" I can start work in ernest on its rebuild. The big question is where to start? Probably the most pressing matter is to find a new home for much of the surplus saloon body parts. There are the four doors and the rear trunk lid. all have what are possibly hard to find and useful items such as window winder mechanisms and door latches etc. There are two lengths of aluminium "rain guttering" from along each side of the saloon roof. BUT what do I do with them? any suggestions? The other thing(s) to take priority is to remove the cylinder head and the sump in order to establish the actual condition of the engine. It would be good to have the engine free and able to be turned over. I am still trying to discover just how long ago the car was actually being used. (driven). The oil on the engine "dip-stick" is beautifully clean; past experience suggests that this means that there will be a thick layer of sludge on the bottom of the sump (oil-pan)? Bernie j.
  13. At last the Singer is safely ensconced in my garage & carport. With everything unpacked, I have been able to start to appreciate everything that "came with the car". Just one of those "things" was this little piece of history. Given that the car is 1935 and the imfamous Berlin Olympics took place in 1936 makes this little treasure even more desirable. It does have on small piece missing from the base but even so it is a surely unique piece of history. Given any one other of a possible thousands of chances, it could have just as well ended up in the melting pot. Re the two other photographs, If the wheels look all wrong that is because they were borrowed from an MG "A" and are 15 inch. The wheels that belong with the car still have to be rebuilt. They are 18 inch. Also the rear springs as they are were set up tp carry a heavy four door saloon body. The need to be adjusted to suit the very light "two seater" body that is to go onto the car.
  14. Quite different in a number of ways. While similar, the single overhead cam motor is 1500cc capacity. This is basically the same motor that Singer sold to HRG. The independent front suspension was unique to this (1934/5,11 hp) model. It was never used again by Singer. I imagine that along with the Fluid drive transmission, the IFS made the car too expensive for the times. That there are so few surviving (Perhaps between six and 12) is a reflection of the number originally sold. I have just started to clean-up a few small parts while I am waiting to get the main parts of the car home. I am amazed at the total lack of any signs of wear on the hand brake ratchet, apart from some surface rust there is absolutely no appreciable wear. This from an 80 year old car! It also had hydraulic brakes in large, finned drums. Singer did not use hydraulic brakes again until well into the 1950s. The "speedo" reads 06647 miles and the speedo face itself looks almost "too good to be true". Hopefully in the not too distant future I may get to learn some more about the car I have bought. I am still trying/hoping to unearth some of the cars early history but this is proving very difficult. BUT don't worry I have not given up yet! First thing is to get it all safely home and in my little "garage". Bj.
  15. Another day draws to a close and I now have all the usefull small parts "put away" and those that do not fall into the "Useful" category carefully placed in the "bin". I now have a nice clear space in which to put the "car". All I need now is a day and time to collect it. I really do not see any reason to keep 75/80 year old hydraulic Brake hosesn although I have cut off the threaded metal ends just as a precaution. These too can go into the "bin" once I am sure that replacement hoses are available. I have even got as far as wire-brushings and painting a couple of small parts, Once the paint has dried they can also go onto the appropriate shelf until required. Bj