Friartuck

I'm in agreement with Peter, full size photos on the front and rear is a must. The cover is a nice feel and appearance, but not worth the extra "Rubles".

Steve and all: Received my copy on 1 Dec and I like the changes, but I wasn't sure which ones Steve wanted us to focus on. Both the inside covers having multiple autos show that we're a diverse club and many types of vehicles are 'Antique & Collectible'. It provides the editor some latitude to include many examples instead of just two. On the inside pages, the green blocking for highlighting (an individual) is also nice, but undecided if that's worth the extra expense. I'll take another look as I'm sure this thread id not done. OK, I'll admit it, I'm happier than a clam that mine is one of them, but my reason still stands!

Please see my post #230984 - 07/04/04 08:30 PM in the General Discussion Forum where I show a homemade powdercoat oven. Also visit some of the suppliers under http://www.powdercoatingonline.com/ web page They offer many colors and at small quantities, like one pound. I don't think you can mix powders to achieve a specific color. One reason is not all powders are made of the same polyester composition and won't flow right.

Here are two helpful hints when using Kwik Poly (http://www.kwikpolyllc.com/), the two part polyol for filling and bonding. Since usually only small amounts are needed, use two plastic straws to give perfect equal amounts into small 3 oz paper Dixie cups. Dip the straw all the way into the can and use your index finger over the top of the straw to trap air in the straw and carefully remove from the can and release into the Dixie cup. Do this as many times as you need for both the base and catalyst. You must use separate straws for the base and catalyst, so mark one straw with red magic marker at the top for use with the base. The other tip is that Kwik Poly can be tinted by using only a Urethane paint such a PPG?s Concept line. Add just a few drops to the base to achieve the desired color before adding the catalyst. If, for example you?re repairing a plastic steering wheel, make up one cup for the base color and another for the darker hairlines and swirls. Just as the base color is setting up, using an Exacto knife blade dipped into the dark color add the darker color where desired. When fully hardened (full 24 hours) the area can be sanded and polished. Practice on test pieces before doing the real project.

I would recommend being practical. Mugs or smaller ornament style awards are easy to display, trays are not. The CCCA trophy of etched glass in a wooden holder is another possibility. Perhaps just the Durea or create a "newer" icon just for preservation. Overall, think small with a touch of elegance.

Suggest contacting Donald Axelrod, 35 Timson, Lynn, MA 01902, PH: 781-598-0523; email: hdlthqtrs@aol.com Don is a headlight dealer for 1914 to 1940, except Ford.

Suggest reading the Post "E-bay warning" started by nearchoclatetown. My e-bay account was tampered with and the password and e-mail address was changed. E-mail E-bay, they're good at responding within 12-24 hours. Chris

Dan (56BuickSuper), The password was a combination of letters and numbers. The letters could have been guessed, but the combination of both.....unlikely. What I think happened was I got hit with a peice of spyware that may have been a keystroke reader. Since this occurred, I used Spybot, Ad-Aware6 and CW Shredder with complete success (so far). The lesson here is to change passwords often (30-60 days) and make them a series of letters, numbers, and special characters. US Army (my employer) policy is: at least 10 Characters, at least 2 lowercase, at least 2 uppercase, at least 2 numbers and at least 2 special characters. We need this kind of aggressive defense because you wouldn't believe what we get hit with on our servers and computers (like 28K hits per month). Unfortunately remembering this is tough, but try formulating it around things YOU are familiar with. Example, a guy likes menu item #32 sweet & sour pork with duck sauce at his local chinese food at Kyong T. Fat takeout: KYT-ssp$#32W/DS. Chris

Try Tom & Dottie Batchelor in Reno, NV: Restoration Supply Company 2060 Palisade Drive Reno, NV 89509 tele: (702) 825-5663 fax: (702) 825-9330 e-mail: restoration@rsc.reno.nv.us

While we all were enjoying the beautiful weather at Hershey this year, my E-bay account was tampered (hijacked?) and someone listed a special triatholon bicycle under my user name. Then they changed the e-mail address on the personal page. I think you can guess what would have happened: winning bidder contacts "seller" via new e-mail and settles auction perhaps thru Pay-pal which uses e-mail address. I was alerted because E-bay sent me the change of e-mail notice, a precaution E-bay places in case of something like this. They send notices when there is any change to your account. I ended the auction and E-bay cleared it up and possibly chasing the culprit. The IP address and subaddress are listed in the mails. The reserve the bicycle had was $3,900. On another note, I'm happy to report my 1930 Lincoln took a Senior at Hershey. Ahhh the thrill of victory.......... Chris

I've had good results from Paul's Chrome Plating, Evans City, PA which is just outside Pittsburgh, PA. Paul's, while not cheap (and which shop isn't) makes one distiction with me: He didn't lose a single part for my 1930 Lincoln. He did about 65-70 peices ranging from radiator shell ($800) to small engine peices ($20-$30 each). He uses a photographic inventory control process and everything was returned. Typical turnaround is 4-6 weeks. Labrandi (also in PA) also has a good reputation, but I never used them. Car will be in class 19A on Saturday's show. Chris

I recommend Jay Fisher in New Jersey. Outstanding craftsman, products are perfect and good quality. Jay Fisher 732-388-6442

Posted pics in Jim's behalf. Let's get this carb to a good home! The mixture arrow should be a clue.

I think most have seen the durability of power coating. Unfortunately it requires heating the parts at 400 degrees for 15-30 minutes. Electric ovens are usually easy to come by, but they sort of limit the size of your parts. I wanted to share with the forum my way of making a power coat oven. My plan is to coat 20 inch welded spoke wheels instead of painting them. It?s a 36 wide X 18 deep double door heavy duty utility cabinet (Gov?t surplus for $25). It has a shelf that?s adjustable so you only have to heat the minimum space for the part being coated. On the outside it?s covered with 2 inch thick rigid fiberglass sheets that?s rated for 450 degrees. The insulation is held on with 2 inch long aluminum tubular screw sets. One sheet is mounted to the underside of the shelf to help retain heat. Insulation is available from McMaster-Carr for about $220. The heating elements from an electric stove are mounted vertically on the shelf. You choice whether you include the oven?s original thermostat. Straight 220V wiring works and when it?s up to temp, just toggle the switch; on for 1 min off for 2 min. I use a probe thermometer rated to 500 degrees, available from Grainger for $30. There are vendors that sell powders in small quantities in a lot of colors, not just what's available from some auto suppilers. More information on Powder Coating can be found at: http://www.powdercoatingonline.com/ p.s. If you?re going to also heat your Swanson Hungry-Man dinner, don?t forget to poke holes over the mashed potatoes and the apple crisp desert!

I posted a composite photo of Hagerstown at http://www.monmouth.com/~friartuck/Hagerstown1.jpg I couldn't resist adding the two 1930 cars, a Pierce Arrow and a Lincoln. Wonder how that happened?!

In 1979 my late father lost his battle to cancer at 54. He amassed 42 collectible cars during mostly the late 50?s and 60?s when they were inexpensive. They were to be his retirement projects. He sold two K model Lincolns to pay for medical expenses to a local collector (Manny K. in NJ) who restored one almost immediately, the other waited till 1997. A couple of years later during the settlement of the Estate, a stack of letters was discovered written by my father to his parents when he was a foot soldier during WWII. Although written in polish, through these I pieced together his Army Service, mostly training in the States as a sharpshooter and some action in Europe in the Spring of 1945. There are even sensorship markings in the margins. The envelopes themselves were pieces of art, each with various cartoons which showed he probably had time on his hands, then anyway (see attachment). In 1997, Manny K had a surprise for me. When he started to work on the second K Lincoln, he found another stack of letters stuffed in behind the back seat. Through this second batch, I learned that he was uprooted out of Europe and shipped off to the Pacific to be engaged in that campaign. Without these, I would have never known that segment of his Army Service. I think this thread has shown that we can find almost anything in our collectible cars. Not that anyone?s story is better than the next, but it definitely keeps things interesting.

Picture of Bugatti at the Mount Olive Grand Classic. Chris Wantuck

I might be wrong, but wasn't Milford "Tiny" Gould the president of Gould Industries, makers (importers) of batteries, electronics, etc?

I'm looking for someone who has a Wayne 519 Visible gas pump. I recently acquired one that's disassembled and need help putting it back together. Pictures and diagrams would be great. Chris

After you've gotten the wheel off, I recommend using kwik poly epoxy or XP2000 (http://www.xp2000.com). The benefit of this type of epoxy is that you can tint it to the color you want. You can only use powder colors to tint (can't use liquids) and it takes some practice mixing until you get the right color when dry. Try asking a local power coater for some of the color you're looking to use. No sense in buying 1/2 pound of powder when all you'll need is a pinch. Use a bunch of 2 once dixie cups to mix in. You can fill cracks in stages or use playdough around the crack and make a dam around the crack so the epoxy doesn't run out while pouring. File, sand, and polish the area when dry. XP2000

Following up on the trunk covering material, part number is Vinyl, PVS4122A 54 inch wide, 10 yards was $55.00 in 1995. Gane Brothers & Lane, 1400 Greenleaf Avenue, Elk Grove Village, IL 60007 or Gane Mount Laurel, 110 Gaihter Drive, Mt Laurel, NJ 08054, 1(800) 523-7312. Nickel head nails, perfect head size, is Chervan in Bedford, VA.( http://www.chervan.com/ )

Annette, I used a material I bought from a book binding company. It's a thin cloth based vinyl, but looks absolutly like trunk leather. My trunk turned out great. Bought it from Gane Brothers in the Chicago area. Would be willing to mail you a swatch. Please send a private email to friartuck@monmouth.com Will also send digital pictures and other hardware related suppliers such as nails, etc. Chris W.

Cyndi, A few comments. These questions should have been posted in the technical forum. I almost didn't see it here in the general section. Have you considered joining the Lincoln Owners Club (LOC)? http://www.lincolnownersclub.com The LOC membership can greatly aid you with your project. Also please contact me directly at friartuck@monmouth.com I'm sure there will be many questions along the way where I can help. I believe the windshield frame is held by machine bolts that go through the wooden cowl frame into the bottom of the windshield frame. Going by memory, there are six total, three per side. That's the way it is on my 1930 touring. To get access to these, you probably need to remove the dash. That's held by wood screws along the top and side perimeter of the dash into the wooden cowl frame. You don't say why the windshield frame has to come out. As for the stamped steel wiring cover, also called a loom cover, those should be available. I'm making a big assuption that the earlier model L's use the same loom cover as the later ones. E-mail me and I'll provide several sources. Would like to know how you came about the car. I've posted a pic of my 1930 type 177. Chris W. Asst. Tech Advisor L series, LOC

Within the past two years, an attempt was made to have a common set of high-speed ring & pinion gears made for both late model L and early model K Lincolns. Commonality was key because 30 sets could have been made (0.200 inch on the pinion was only difference). This differed from a run of gears done in the 1980?s for model L?s at a ratio of 3.77:1. Great on flat highway but some say the ratio went too far and cars lugged up hills. The original ratios were 4.58:1 for sedans and 4.26:1 for the roadster. The new ratio selected was 3.95:1. Conclusion: Care should be taken when selecting the ratio. Fairfield Gear in Lafayette, Indiana takes on these projects and usually charges about $3500 set-up cost and the price would have been about $800 a set in quantities of 25. The project did not go through as planned and Mr. Phil Bray, ORF Corp., Grosse Ile, Michigan offered to make the sets. He charged a flat rate of $1,450 per set in quantity of 12.

I'm revising my earlier post. 90-110 pounds is to high for this vintage engine. 60-70 is a better estimate. Don't know what I was thinking. Listed in Restoration Tips from Tom Reese (published by AACA in 1985), page 65 the following ratios and pressures: 5.0 is 80 lbs, 5.5 is 90 lbs, 6.0 is 100 lbs, 6.5 is 110 lbs, and 7.0 is 120 lbs.