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About 1913Moline

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  1. My dad probably bought these off some farmer’s porch 50+ years ago. They seem to be high quality but don’t seem to wrap around as much as 1909 vintage seats from a car with no doors. There is also a ring that looks like a robe strap attached. That would mean a car with doors maybe later teens?? I suppose they could be buggy seats but seem too fancy. Seems like really big diamond upholstery too so a bit confusing. Jackson spring cushion company Jackson, Michigan tag on one. Any clues??
  2. My radiator seems to be identical to the 1914 B-55 in this thread: Looks like they smoothed out the radiator shells later.
  3. I've found a couple of poor photos, but no really good front-on picture of a 1915 C-55 6 cylinder Buick. The photos I've seen seem to ave the exact squarish radiator shell surround for the crank hole cover. http://forums.aaca.org/topic/292006-what-is-it-probably-a-1915-buick-model-c-55-six/ Anyone have a nice pic of a 1915 C-55?
  4. I've kept this for years thinking someone might need the top and bottom tanks for a re-core. Anybody know what it might fit? The shell originally came up around the huge crank hole from the bottom, so that seems to be an identifying feature. Thx
  5. Howard- count me in for a Ben Franklin. Since I couldnt contribute to your distributor cap quest, I'll send my $100 to the library. Guess my donation goes to the count above the cellar tho. Thanks again for toting part of my own library half way across the country..... Greg
  6. I have a duplicate set of Bulb Horns- Complete from 1946 thru the 60's and mostly complete into the 90's. Includes some issues back to 1941. Had to buy these as part of a big collection to get some other magazines that I wanted. Also have a set of AACA Magazines from about 1952 up. Will trade this run for pre 1915 Motor Age, Horseless Age or other various pre 1916 US auto magazines, or will sell outright. Email- kisselkar@cs.com if interested. Greg
  7. If you could find the name of the supplier, that would be great. A ring and pinion swap is so much cleaner than an overdrive setup, particularly the larger displacement cars of the teens and twenties. Thanks for any help you can provide. Greg
  8. Anyone have any recommendations for a supplier of repro high speed gearsets? It is pretty easy to find a gear house to do these if you want to order twenty of them. I have a friend that wants to buy 1 set!! These are spiral bevel gears- not hypoid. Anyone actually done this recently? Greg
  9. The rotors of these dual delco's turn at the same exact speed. The timing is totally controlled by the breaker points and the advance arm which affects both distributor cams. I have used these on 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder cars. Even bought one with 6 cylinder lobe and had 4 cylinder gearing inside. We really struggled to figure that one out. They were made to replace typical magnetos which make two sparks per shaft revolution. When replacing the mag on a 6 cylinder car, the gearing to the rotor is different than on a 4 cylinder. Pierce used the 4 cylinder one on trucks and used the 6 cyli
  10. Usually, I cannot be stumped on one of these. You had me digging, but it is correct for a 1921 Oakland Model 34. As far as I see, that is the only application. For those interested, the early Hollanders work well for this cross referencing. Also, early National Service Manuals which turn up at swap meets and on ebay. I have a huge Delco book which is about 10" thick, but it doesnt cross parts to cars. You can go the other way, but not 'backwards'. greg
  11. Body lead is great for seams and other body work BUT DO NOT take an air sander to it. The dust generated by sanding can be absorbed by the skin and also inhaled. Not something you want to deal with.
  12. I have quite a few automotive aftermarket parts books from the 1920's. The Victor Number for the 1922 Light Six is #297 The McCord number is #93 You might contact Olson's Gaskets - They are out in Washington or Oregon. Sandy Olson has most gaskets like this available. Good Luck, Greg
  13. Carleton's process is basically assuring that the compression ratio of each cylinder is the same. That would be a complicated process with the blind bores of an engine with non-removeable cylinder heads. Since the compression ratio is the cylinder+clearance volume at bottom dead center divided by the clearance volume at TDC, any variations in the clearance volume (volume of Comb. Chamber at TDC), will affect the C/R of that particular cylinder. Another key performance issue is cylinder to cylinder spark timing. This is something that most anyone can do. Mark your TDC marks to a reference p
  14. This discussion certainly does not apply to the Model T Ford type of magneto which has totally different construction than the Bosch, Remy, Splitdorf, Berling or other "unit magnetos". I would never argue that the Ford magnetos are unreliable.
  15. I have no argument that magnetos can be made to be reliable. Lots of airplanes airplanes still use them- and they carry a spare, mounted to the engine and tested every time one starts out. If you dont mind carrying a 40lb spare rebuilt magneto, then using a mag is not a bad option. I have spent a lot of time rebuilding magnetos- in fact, I wrote a two segment article in 1992 for the Horseless Carriage Gazette on Bosch magnetos which people still contact me to discuss. I dont think that many of the serious brass era car tourists use magnetos though. The inherant flaws in "spinning" a two set
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