• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About bluetaxi

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 03/15/1948

Contact Methods

  • AIM

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Fairbanks, Alaska
  • Interests:
    Studebakers, Pans, Franklins, Buicks

Recent Profile Visitors

302 profile views
  1. bluetaxi

    '32 Dictator factory photo

    Not interested in address... she would be about 106 now, I expect. I am hoping Richard or someone else has info on the photo, as I have not seen it elsewhere.
  2. Can anyone give me any information on what appears to be a factory photo of a 1932 Dictator? Location is The Lighthouse, Pacific Palisades based on the umbrella. The photo is numbered 15327.
  3. Egge does not have new pistons for the '22 engine, but did for the '24 EJ. I have original pistons in my '22. BTW, Scott, my "repaired" aluminum head did not last long without leaking again, so I am going to order a new casting later this winter to replace it.
  4. Was idling in the driveway while I dusted it before loading it on the trailer to go to a show. Like most of us with bad habits, I reved the engine a bit before I engaged the clutch, and it broke with a very loud "bang". Engine kept running until I shut it off. Pistons are now aluminum from Egge. Took 2+ years to find a block, plus then time to gather other parts, machine, etc. One flaw is obviously the pistons, the other is that the rods will clear the bore when the crank at at bottom for that rod.
  5. Same thing happened to my '24 EJ Touring about 15 years ago. The #6 piston failed at the wrist pin letting the full length of the rod fall out of the cylinder and it went through both sides of the block, taking out the starter on one side and the water pump, etc., on the other. Took a while, but found an engine and rebuilt it, so if you do find a block only and not a full engine, and need a good crank or other misc. parts, please contact me.
  6. bluetaxi

    1932 bearings wanted

    Got the standard Clevite CB-527P bearings in the mail from Amazon this morning. They check out perfect for the thickness to fit a 2.374 crank in a 2.500 bearing housing at .0625 thickness. To fit the standard Studebaker 2.344 crank, the Clevite inserts must be ordered .030 undersize. If you have to turn the Studebaker crank, then you need to order even greater undersize to fit. The inserts also need the oil hole drilled, and the tabs are reversed, so they will take some minor fit work. Now that I've done your math homework for you, order the bearings. They are available.
  7. bluetaxi

    1932 bearings wanted

    I'll order one of the $6/pair intermediate bearing shells from Amazon and check the thickness, now that you have me curious - but I'm sure I checked when I installed them...
  8. bluetaxi

    1932 bearings wanted

    Rex - Shells I took out look to be standard diameter, and with a couple checks average .0775" thickness. A quick web search shows that all the replacement crankshaft bearings are available - the only one that isn't is the rod bearings for the Commander (that you have bought up the stock) - but if this is a Dictator, they are babbited anyway. - Rick
  9. bluetaxi

    1932 bearings wanted

    Robert - As I said in the personal email I sent you, the Dictator engine in '32 had babbited rod bearings - I had mine done at Harkin Machine. All the main bearing shells fit perfectly, as properly shimmed and set with plastigage. Engine had 4500 miles on it when I lost babbit in the #6 rod bearing on a steep grade - had the car towed home and had the rod rebabbited. That was in 2015 shortly after I fitted an overdrive on the car. The car is a driver - has another 3500 miles on it since then, many at modern highway speed. Engine I rebuilt had about 23k on it; the one I used it to replace had about 73k on it and was tired. - Rick
  10. bluetaxi

    1932 bearings wanted

    The trail starts with the article Ford Stoecker wrote a dozen or more years ago for Antique Studebaker Review. Main bearings are 2.344 and nothing currently made is available - but several engines use 2.374, so a .030" undersize will fit, but there are four different widths (can use the same for #1 and #5). Rear main #9 is the same as a rod bearing from an Allis Chalmers WD or WD-45; Federal Mogul #2440SB. Intermediate bearings #2,3,4,6,7 and 8 are rod bearings from Chrysler 383 (1961-71) and are Clevite #CB527P. Bearings #5 and #1 are rod bearings from an International Truck (6-cyl 240 or 264), Clevite #CB475P. I used the above advice from the article rebuilding the engine for my Dictator. As Ford points out, almost every bearing shell has the mounting tang on the wrong side, so a slot needs to be machined to accept the "backward" bearing shell, and most oil holes do not line up correctly and the holes or grooves need to be modified. Rod bearings are Federal Mogul #1360SB in the appropriate undersize for the Studebaker 1.875 rod journals - they can be found for the old Caterpillar pony engines. In the article, Ford gives credit to Performance Antiques 573-243-7322 for all the bearing interchanges. I did not call them, but found that the info Ford had in the article was correct, and my rebuilt engine has been going strong for 11 years and thousands of miles. Youv'e helped me out over the years, hopefully this starts to repay the favor! - Rick Larrick Fairbanks, Alaska
  11. bluetaxi

    Seat Belts

    Thanks, Robert - That certainly answers the question and makes sense - Studebaker had pre-drilled holes at reinforced locations on the cars of that period, but not the trucks. I will go ahead and drill for the belts where it makes sense, and use the large reinforcing washers. Thanks for posting the link to the SDC information.
  12. bluetaxi

    Seat Belts

    Thanks, Richard - Now that begs the question of whether anyone has an NOS belt, and if so, could a copy of the factor instructions be made?
  13. bluetaxi

    Seat Belts

    Did Studebaker ever put out a tech sheet for dealers for fastener location for seat belts on late 50's / 60's models? I know that as early as 1955, General Motors had even engineered in floor locations and had belts as options (I found those locates for belts in my first '55 Buick in about 1966, and they are where belts are attached in my current '55 Century). I am re-doing a '63 Champ, and while I have the seat out for new upholstery, I will put in seat belts and would like to put the attachment points where Studebaker Engineering intended them. Rick Larrick Fairbanks, Alaska
  14. bluetaxi

    What's it worth - '36 Buick Century 2Dr?

    Thaks for the input - it has been helpful. Some new information: Inspection today (helped move the car to temporary storage) reveals that it is a Special 48 and not a Century. Mileage is undoubtedly real - opened the trunk and the spare has never been out, other signs of a gentle 38,000 mile early life including literally no upholstery wear or seat spring sag, etc. Story was that it was an estate car in southern California. Given to the house manager as a gift for great service, etc. Registrations are through '74 in California. Was sold (to a family member) and brought to Fairbanks, Alaska in '76. Was put up on jack stands in a heated basement garage here in '77 and not moved or started since (owner was an oil field worker working 2 weeks on / 2 weeks off, but never got around to doing anything with the car, but treasured it as an heirloom and investment. When we lowered it from the jackstands and aired one low tire - the car rolled and steers easily. No brakes. Engine turns easily when rolled in gear, so not stuck. Absolutely no rust - undercarriage dry and clean. No rodent evidence. Wood floor good. A bit of waterstaining on door panels probably from leaky window seals in early years. No paint bubbles or chips - a few surface scraches that will rub out. Good glass all around. I have the only offer on the car at $8200. One family member - daughter of the house manager and relative of the deceased owner - has expressed an interest in bringing the car back to CA. There are thus three choices - move the car back to Santa Barbara to keep it in the family, sell to me, or put it in storage until a spring auction. When resolved, I will post the end decision, and if I get the car and paperwork, the "rest of the story" of the car's provenance.