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rlcokc's Achievements

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  1. Would suggest calling Dave Tachney--he would know what is out there and would assume good idea of which is original. I have two model 40 1936 and have the heavy duty on one and tall one on the other. Bent rods for teh taller one and straight rods for the heavy duty/country one. Bent support rods necessary for usage of taller one and straight OK for country. I believe these are original. Do know some changes made midyear and the taller air cleaner is the early production but do not know if change made between early and late. The light switch was changed as well as support bars in rear seat removed for late. Interesting to know as I have never seen the shorter air cleaner on any 36 model 40 but don't know if I would have noticed anyway. Rod
  2. problem solved----altho not sure how it was solved. Removed several wires from switch and checked after removal of each to see if lights off when switch in off position. When I removed the driver headlight wire and put battery cable back on positive post the lights were off. But I also moved a wire hanging down which is for one of the bulbs in dash and don't know what it was touching before I moved it--it was close to switch itself. Don't know how it was fixed but at least for time being the lights are operating as designed. Do believe the switch I removed was bad as when I bench tested it not making contact with one of the contacts so that was not a waste of time. Appreciate your suggestions and wish I had something helpful from my experience but at least I didn't have to remove switch again--really a pain in the butt. Thanks Rod
  3. thanks for responses. I'll double check and see if knob is indeed going all the way to dash. I did not check as I assumed it did. I do not have a fitting like yours but i do have a fitting with lip on outside that is threaded for tightening the switch itself. Could be that is not tightened properly. When I get to shop I"ll certainly check. My switch is fused 30 amp fuse attached to the top of switch. I did not open up the switch which I installed but did bench test and tested OK, at least I thought. I did remover the base of the switch I removed and indeed had 3 triangular contacts with 3 dimples on each for contact with copper disc in switch. Well worn but didn't think enough to cause problem with operation. Spring under each of the triangular contacts and my all appear identical in size. I''ll check on the off position and report back. Don't really think that is issue as if it were to make contact should be position 2 which is just just the fender lights and not the headlights as well as they are position 3 and 4. Thanks Rod
  4. My light switch decided to malfunction and the driver's headlight would not come on when switched to the 3rd(country) or 4th position of the headlight switch. Checked wiring and assumed it was switch. Got my oversized butt under the dash for the day and changed out the switch. Tested the old switch and indeed no. 5 and 10 switch wasn't operating properly. Installed another switch and connected the wires and low and behold when I hooked up the battery the passenger headlight, both fender lights and the taillights were on-----when the switch was in the off position. I then ran the switch thru the 4 positions and the only one that didn't work properly was the off position. Running lights on one, headlights and running lights on country and bright to passenger on 4 when dimmer switch pushed with driver light working. Any ideas what the problem could be--don't relish pulling the switch again but would bet I'll have to do it. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks Rod.
  5. Thanks for info. Was not familiar with the bulbs that simply fit the present headlight fitting. Interesting website as no prices or online ordering--all I see is to email for catalog and prices. Will contact them and also search to see if others offer the halogen headlight bulb. Believe I will go with the 2530 as my generator charge is great. Thanks Rod
  6. Cars Inc shows headlight bulb. for 1039 buick--#2330. Bob's shows both 2330 and 2530 in old PDF catalog but when you go to website not listed as present inventory. I have several NOS but want to get some new bulbs as my mechanic says the NOS often loose gas inside bulb and causes them to fail. Didn't know about gas maybe just seal. Question is what is difference between the 2530 and 2330? Most of my old bulbs are Mazda but neither Bob or Cars identifies the manufacturer. Any help appreciated. Rod
  7. rlcokc


    check out this link. Appears may be able to make. also very good photo journal of wireon, welting, hidem.
  8. Might want to post question on this forum: https://groups.io/g/39-47Dodgetruck
  9. let me know if Dave doesn't have one-believe he will. I know I have one with broken cable which was rechromed and not sure how to repair/lengthen the cable. Not sure I have another. Actually think I got the one installed on car from Dave after the other broke.
  10. no stainless whiskers on the mounting piece-36 has 3 which are mounted on the front of the lower piece-the mounting piece
  11. yes there is a hump created by the cover which goes over the transmission. Appears to be same as Buick Special. Wood covers over passenger and driver side with metal cover over transmission. I did not measure but would be very close to same if not identical.
  12. yes-clock works repaired. Cost was $99 plus shipping. Actually shipped 4 clocks and had two repaired. Work appears to be good and clock working.
  13. Anyone have experience with AKH Vintage Wheels in state of Washington. Terry Rowe is the owner. Communicating with him about 4 wheels he has. Says backspace is about 4" --- how much difference does it make between the modern repos which have 3 1/2" backspace and the originals for my 67 which had 4 1/2?
  14. My clock stopped working and have searched several threads and it is apparent that repair by me beyond my expertise. In search the web I found The Clock Works and Smith Classic Car Clocks which repairs old auto clocks. Mine is a Borg 6 volt-I have new wiring harness as well as several clocks and housing as well as new lens for the clock. The estimated charge per website is $49-$59 bucks plus shipping. I find the cost reasonable but as always wonder what real cost may be once clock is received. Any suggestions or experience with either one of the clock repairers mentioned? Thought about contacting Dave Tachney but think I would prefer to get one of my clocks working/repaired as opposed to obtaining an additional used one. Rod
  15. thanks again. Think the code registration from Team Buick may have been the document I was referring to. Believe the wheels for 67 were black, satin as opposed to the Light met. silver, satin as shown--isn't that correct?
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