21raceabout

Members
  • Content Count

    163
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

13 Good

About 21raceabout

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. The photo is of a Mercer Raceabout with a 300 cubic inch 4 cylinder "T" head engine (intake and exhaust valves operate vertically on opposite sides of the cylinders). The Runabout model was a bit more "civilized" with a cowl and doors. The Raceabout of this vintage is highly coveted by enthusiasts today and is one of, it not the most valuable cars of this era. The Raceabout was, as apparent by the photo, a very racy affair, low slung and powerful, that most experts consider to be America's first sports car. Owners could take their new Mercer off the showroom floor, remove the fenders and go racing with the expectation of winning - just as your grandfather appears to have done. The grandfather of former NASCAR driver Jeff Gordon ran his Raceabout known at the "Gordon Special" in races on the West Coast. It's designer, Findley Porter, once said that "we built racing cars for the street". It was hand built in Trenton NJ by the Mercer Automobile Company which was backed by the Roebling (Brooklyn Bridge fame) and Kuser families. If you have any other pictures or memorabilia I'm sure we would all like to see it.
  2. Work is progressing on our 1915 C-25 project. Ran into a question about the condenser on the Delco M.G.56 motor generator. The original condenser was in tough shape and failed electrical tests. I was able to procure one similar (original P/N according to parts book was 10860, whereas replacement I acquired is 10861) It looks like the replacement has a different wiring set-up compared to the original. According to the original wiring diagram, one lead attaches to the timing contacts after the resistance unit (coiled wire shielded by metal cover) and the other lead goes to ground. (Remnant of the original wire is still attached to the timing contacts in the photo). The replacement condenser is wired directly to the resistance unit metal cover, although the wire actually being too short to reach. The gound wire is also intact. Thinking I need to remove the part of the wire with the metal cover attached and splice in a new wire to reach the timing contacts. Anyone know exactly where the ground wire attaches? (under the upper left hand screw of the condenser unit?). As always any comments or even photos much appreciated.
  3. The 9th annual Mercer Associates meeting will take place at Hershey Fall Meet on Thursday, October 10th, at 3pm in the Red Field spaces RWN/RWM 20-25. As in the past, the meeting is an informal gathering for owners of Mercer automobiles and honorary members of the Mercer Associates. Looking forward to catching up with all of you on the news from the past year.
  4. Cleaned up th oil pump on my 1915 C-25 project and was disappointed to find heavy wear on the bronze gear (ID and OD), shaft (which appears to be integral with the housing) and the housing itself. How a pump which is supposed to be immersed in oil has so much wear is a bit of a mystery. I studied up on geared pumps and it would appear that the pump still delivered pressure because as the bronze gear shifted away from the steel driving gear, it's OD continued to rub on the housing resulting in tight clearance preventing by-pass leakage. This wore ~0.050" off the OD of the gear. If I true up the shaft and put a bushing into the ID of the bronze gear, to re-establish it's original center, that will open up the clearance between the (worn) bronze gear and (worn) housing, losing pump effiiency (proportional to the gap cubed... similar to the importance of minimizing blade tip clearance in a turbo-fan engine). I considered ways of replacing the worn material in the housing using brass shims or even babbitt, but before I do that was wondering if anyone has a spare pump or parts (bronze gear, housing) they would be willing to sell. Also looking for a push rod for the same engine if anyone has a spare before I go off and make one. Thanks...
  5. I'll send you a PM tonight. Are you in need of windshield (frame) parts? If you do I can probably help with that.
  6. SummitA, where are you in Maine? The C25 I am working on is located in Cape Neddick. I removed the "wide flanged screws" that hold the rear of the outer brake bands with heat as was previously suggested. I ended up making new ones on my lathe when it went back together.
  7. For my C-25 speedster project I replaced all the original (and heavily worn) "Z" type bolts with the built in "base" for the grease cups with Grade 5 9/16" fine thread bolts. (Best deal on fasteners I've found is a Bolt Depot.com in MA, short of the Grade 2 junk sold for $1 a pound at Marden's.) I drilled the bolts on lathe part way down the length through the head and cross drilled in the center for the grease to exit. I threaded the hole through the head with 1/8" PT so as to enable use of standard grease cups from Model T suppliers or a Zerk fitting. I calculated shear capability for the bolts with the internal hole and found plenty of margin of safety with Grade 5. This avoided having to buy carbide taps for Grade 8. I recognize I'm compromising authnticity but this will be a driver rather than a show car and everything done is fully reversable. All the old worn out steel bushings in springs pressed out and replaced with bronze from McMaster drilled out on lathe then reamed after install.
  8. I recently used Harkin-Arcola in MN for the babbitt on my 1915 C-25 project (center main was falling apart in chunks). Excellent customer service. I used Fastenal's shipping service to get crankcase from ME to MN and back. Made a sturdy box for it bolted to a pallet and had no issues.
  9. The 8th annual Mercer Associates meeting will take place at Hershey on Thursday, October 11th, 3pm at the west end of the Coker Tire tent. As in the past, the meeting is a gathering for owners of Mercer automobiles and honorary members of the Mercer Associates. Looking forward to catching up with all of you on the news from the past year.
  10. Thanks for the commentary. So to finish the story, in order to get that last cage out we made a 1/2" thick AMS5663 Inco718 plate to cover the inlet and exhaust ports of the offending cylinder. Made some hollow spacers using an EOS M70 DMLS 3D printing machine with Inco625 powder so we could use the original studs to clamp the aforementioned plate to the cylinder head. Inco625 is a good choice of material as it has high temperature capability but being non-hardenable has some "give" so as to avoid damaging the studs. Before installation of the plate we drilled and tapped the exhaust side for two 1/4" pt brass fittings with ball valves and barbettes. We also drilled a 1/8" hole through the plate on the intake side. Best to use a carbide drill on such hard material. We cut off a 1-3/4" diameter piece of round bar stock about 2" long out of MARM-242 in order to block off the valve port that already had the cage removed. The original cage nut was used to hold the bar stock in place. MARM-242 is a great choice of material here given it's higher oxidation resistance compared to steel at higher temperatures; especially important if one had multiple cages that are stuck. Next we made some hardwood wedges (about door stop size) and drove them between the flywheel and frame to keep the crankshaft from turning. Then we attached a neoprene hose of the appropriate diameter to each of the barbettes and funnels to the other ends of the hoses to facilitate pouring in equal amounts of methanol hydrazine and hydrogen peroxide to partially fill the cylinder. Next we placed a firecracker fuse into the small hole and we lit her off. Had to get the ladder out to recover the valve cage from the hole in the ceiling where it got stuck. Oh yeah, don't forget to install an old spark plug on the other side tightly otherwise this technique might not work.
  11. We were able to remove all the cages from our "parked next to, not inside, the barn find" 1915 C-25 by removing the cage nuts and then working the brass seals out with a pick. Then soaked the cages in acetone and ATF for 2-3 weeks per Mark and Terry's suggestions. Most came right out, with the last one naturally being a little more trouble due to rust. We used the modified NAPA puller set-up as described in Dean's 1915-18 club newsletter as we did not have the vintage Buffum tool.
  12. Hi - I'm in need of a distributor cap for a 1915 Buick C-25 with a Delco MG-56 #52 (4 cyl) motor generator...photos attached; thanks Rick
  13. McMaster Carr has a wide selection of bronze bushings and solid bronze rods. You may find what you need off the shelf or if you have a lathe it is easy work to custom fit what you need. I have used them for my rocker arm, leaf spring and steering control bushings.
  14. Redbaron - I would be very interested in learning more about the K-line phosphor bronze liners... and photos would be great. Thanks