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About 21raceabout

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  1. The 8th annual Mercer Associates meeting will take place at Hershey on Thursday, October 11th, 3pm at the west end of the Coker Tire tent. As in the past, the meeting is a gathering for owners of Mercer automobiles and honorary members of the Mercer Associates. Looking forward to catching up with all of you on the news from the past year.
  2. Thanks for the commentary. So to finish the story, in order to get that last cage out we made a 1/2" thick AMS5663 Inco718 plate to cover the inlet and exhaust ports of the offending cylinder. Made some hollow spacers using an EOS M70 DMLS 3D printing machine with Inco625 powder so we could use the original studs to clamp the aforementioned plate to the cylinder head. Inco625 is a good choice of material as it has high temperature capability but being non-hardenable has some "give" so as to avoid damaging the studs. Before installation of the plate we drilled and tapped the exhaust side for two 1/4" pt brass fittings with ball valves and barbettes. We also drilled a 1/8" hole through the plate on the intake side. Best to use a carbide drill on such hard material. We cut off a 1-3/4" diameter piece of round bar stock about 2" long out of MARM-242 in order to block off the valve port that already had the cage removed. The original cage nut was used to hold the bar stock in place. MARM-242 is a great choice of material here given it's higher oxidation resistance compared to steel at higher temperatures; especially important if one had multiple cages that are stuck. Next we made some hardwood wedges (about door stop size) and drove them between the flywheel and frame to keep the crankshaft from turning. Then we attached a neoprene hose of the appropriate diameter to each of the barbettes and funnels to the other ends of the hoses to facilitate pouring in equal amounts of methanol hydrazine and hydrogen peroxide to partially fill the cylinder. Next we placed a firecracker fuse into the small hole and we lit her off. Had to get the ladder out to recover the valve cage from the hole in the ceiling where it got stuck. Oh yeah, don't forget to install an old spark plug on the other side tightly otherwise this technique might not work.
  3. We were able to remove all the cages from our "parked next to, not inside, the barn find" 1915 C-25 by removing the cage nuts and then working the brass seals out with a pick. Then soaked the cages in acetone and ATF for 2-3 weeks per Mark and Terry's suggestions. Most came right out, with the last one naturally being a little more trouble due to rust. We used the modified NAPA puller set-up as described in Dean's 1915-18 club newsletter as we did not have the vintage Buffum tool.
  4. Hi - I'm in need of a distributor cap for a 1915 Buick C-25 with a Delco MG-56 #52 (4 cyl) motor generator...photos attached; thanks Rick
  5. McMaster Carr has a wide selection of bronze bushings and solid bronze rods. You may find what you need off the shelf or if you have a lathe it is easy work to custom fit what you need. I have used them for my rocker arm, leaf spring and steering control bushings.
  6. Redbaron - I would be very interested in learning more about the K-line phosphor bronze liners... and photos would be great. Thanks
  7. cxgvd - thanks for offer on bearing numbers, yes I would be very interested in the list. I sent you a pm did you get it?
  8. Looking for instructions or tips on the disassembly/reassembly of a 1915 C-25 rear axle/differential. Have not worked on one of this vintage before. Rear wheels, hubs, outer bearings are off, all the brake hardware, stiffening rods and the drive shaft housing with pinion gear have been removed. We have found plenty of sticky goo inside and the ring and pinion gear teeth look OK. Thanks!
  9. This was the car sold some years ago from the Seal Cove Museum at the auction held at Owls Head. Fresh out of restoration it was shown at the Pebble Beach concours a couple years ago where some ignorant judge marked the car down for not having ribbed rubber on the running boards. I believe Stan still has the red Libaire car as well.
  10. I got the cam shaft out today. The front cam bearing has to come out with the cam shaft so it is a matter of getting that bronze plain bearing out of the aluminum crankcase. In this case the two parts have been in close contact for the last 102 years. I used a torch to heat the aluminum around the bearing and found that it took repeated heating cycles with some measured tapping on the base of the nearest cam lobes with a hardwood drift (went through several) to get it apart. I suspect I was fighting that fact that although aluminum has a higher coefficient of expansion than bronze, it also has a higher rate of thermal conduction such that the aluminum dissipates the heat faster than the bronze requiring quick action each time the heat was removed. It all worked out in the end with nothing broken or damaged. Thanks to those who responded.
  11. Not from the Associates meeting but we got to see Mr. Lucas' freshly restored L-head Raceabout and Fred's "old reliable" at the show...
  12. Larry - Yes, all the lifters are out. At this point the cam is the only thing left in the crankcase. I assume the front and middle bearings will come out with the cam...any recommended place to tap with a (hardwood) drift...locally heat the crankcase first?