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Friartuck

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Everything posted by Friartuck

  1. Did you check the towing available section? There is a guy advertising Seattle to San Diego. Maybe he can accommodate on the return trip http://forums.aaca.org/forum/112-towing-available/
  2. Thought this was worth sharing on removing the seat back. The back panel must be removed to access bolts at the base of the frame. Seat1. The seat frame removed from the car. Seat2. Under the cigarette vanity there are a few screws to remove. Next are the lap robe inner mounts on each side of the vanity. Seat3. The lap robes lay down. Seat4. There are two each screws on the lap robe outer mounts. Tugging and pulling the entire back comes off. Seat5. The seat back removed exposes the under side of the seat back cushion. Seat6. The four lower bolts on each side hold the seat back in place. This could have been done with the frame still in the car.
  3. I Too recommend examining the cables. I submit that a good working 6 volt electrical system does not need a 8 volt battery. An important point is that the cable to lug connections are soldered. Just crimping a lug may loose 10-15 percent of the current. On a side note, my experience with Optima batteries has not been grand. They did not have the endurance as a wet cell and we'll leave it at that
  4. http://www.vintagecarradiatorcompany.co.uk/ http://www.ftrs.com.au/ http://www.replicore.co.nz/ http://maineradiator.com/jaz_mar_antique_frame.html Several sources to consider. Likely to be pricey.
  5. I posted this on the Caddy Forum and reposting here in hopes this is a common GM technique. Vehicle is an original 1951 Caddy series 62 4 door sedan. The front seat bottom cushion lifted straight up and out, but how do you remove the front seat back cushion? The rear seat bottom and back cushions were held in via clips and lifting the metal frame the cushions came out. However the front seat back cushion appears to be a mystery. Is it held via clips or is the back cushion like a sub frame that is secured with bolts some where?
  6. Vehicle is an original 1951 Caddy series 62 4 door sedan. The front seat bottom cushion lifted straight up and out, but how do you remove the front seat back cushion? The rear seat bottom and back cushions were held in via clips and lifting the metal frame the cushions came out. However the front seat back cushion appears to be a mystery. Is it held via clips or is the back cushion like a sub frame that is secured with bolts some where?
  7. Are you referring to the 1/4 inch thick battleship linoleum that has a burlap backing? See this thread: http://forums.aaca.org/topic/250225-linoleum-source/?hl=linoleum Tony Lauria offers cut peices in different colors. Metal edging is available from L&L Trim.
  8. It depends on your priorities. If the overdrive unit requires invading the torque tube, I presume that is a one way modification when you can't easily go back to original. True, the over drive alternative offers original and higher speed selection. My preference is not to modify a drive train (to that extent). Some history to compare. Lincoln standard ratio was 4.58:1 and they offered a factory high speed gear set for only the lighter bodied roadster at 4.26:1 which represented a 7% higher ratio than standard. The Lincoln Club (group) made a series of high speed ring and pinion sets starting in the 1970's. The first set was a 3.77:1 ratio which represented a 17% increase over original. On flat ground (and down hill) it was acceptable and on slight hills it proved to lug the car. Even a moderate hill required down shifting. The second set (circa 1990's) was at 3.96:1 which was a 13% increase over original. This ratio set proved well for most roads and hill situations. If we had to do another set (production run), I would advocate about 4.1:1 which is 10% increase over original. The ratio you've stated of 3.6:1 over the 5.0:1 sounds like a 25+ percent increase over original. If the Lincoln lugged at 17%, surely this 3.6 ratio would lug, also referred to as too tall, meaning to big of a ratio. Investigate how the 3.6 ratio was calculated and query other Cadillac owners who have used it. This 3.6:1 ratio sounds like a disappointment in the making. If this is the first run of gear sets for Cadillac, may I suggest a ratio of between 4.4 and 4.5. My conclusion is the higher ring and pinion set when designed carefully offers the best trade off of performance versus modification. Be tentative of dimensions. A higher speed gear set involves a larger pinion which will force the ring gear to be adjusted (located) possibly requiring modification of the axle housing. PM me for additional comments and pics.
  9. The guys at SM Electro Tech make a nice controller unit which utilizes original bulbs like the cowl light for signals. http://turnswitch.com/Turnsignal.htm
  10. Most trunks for the larger cars are 18 inches deep and anywhere from 36-38 inches wide.
  11. Since you've done a few tractors in the past, you already know some of the challenges ahead of you. 1. Do research which sounds like you started. Contact the AACA Library and get info about your vehicle. What makes your model what it is and what options/features/colors were availble. 2. Find other like Dodge truck owners and get pics of their vehicle. This doesn't mean to say that their vehicle didn't get altered during the years, but its a start. Recognize what is right and what isn't. 3. Develop a realistic plan of expenditures for your project. If the engine and drive train are healthy, degreasing, power washing, wire brushing, and hand painting maybe suitable for the engine & chassis. Ensure the mechanicals are sound before you go too far down the path where you can't recover. 4. Make a safe and reliable vehicle for you to enjoy. Address the fuel system from tank to carb. I suggest replacing the wiring as well and include a master battery switch. Too many vehicles have been destroyed by fire due to fuel and electrical systems. Don't be a casualty.
  12. If the generator is motoring, it means at least some of the field coils are connected. If motoring faster than expected, it sounds like either the ground or armature brush is not making contact. The adjustment (function) of the third brush is to vary its alignmnet with respect to the ground brush. Its possible the motoring circuit is being completed through the armature brush. If the armature failed (open or short), I doubt the unit would motor at all. If a field coil shorted internally or against ground, it likely wouldn't produce the field(s) and again wouldn't motor, certainly not fast. If a field coil opened, then no fields would be produced and wouldn't motor at all. That is why I suggest checking the ground or armature brushes first. Ensure the brush springs apply light and even pressure on the commutator. Also look for the ground brush braided wire making good contact to the case and the armature brush wiring possibly grounding out against the case.
  13. Any job worth performing is doing it right the first time. Pull the pump and rebuild it.
  14. I too heard from Brad and that he had to move the business which took time and was not able to fulfill orders til now. According to Brad, best method is through the website. Glad he's providing trim to the hobby!
  15. Gardner Westcott offers plated hardware. http://gardner-westcott.com/ You might also look at Tioga Stainless. They offer some unusual head shapes. Polished Stainless has the appearance of nickel or industrial chrome which usually is a good trade off. Important to get the shoulder-mechanical aspect correct for this top mechanism. Modifying an existing item maybe inevitable.
  16. I believe a lot of car folks as well as vintage engine collectors have used Cattail. Check with them, I think they pour Cast Iron, Bronze, Brass and Alum: Cattail Foundry Emanuel J. King 167 W. Cattail Road Gordonville, PA 17529 (717) 768-7323
  17. Agree with the others, 40 is low. Consider doing a non evasive leak down test. It may tell you if valves or head gasket are suspect. If you're not planning to do anything then use it and enjoy.
  18. All restorers face the challenges of using currently available materials and processes to emulate was done back then. Given cost and availability, i would consider a truck bed liner coating or Eastwood's undercoating: http://www.eastwood.com/ew-rubberized-undercoating-830ml-28oz.html?reltype=3 Eastwood's rubberized coating brushed on should appear nice for this application.
  19. I'm thinking ignition related rather than fuel. My first thoughts are coil or condenser shorting out when they get hot. Replace coil with a newer manufactured BOSCH VW coil and replace condenser.
  20. I concede that John348 route is a smoother ride. If you can get over the GW bridge at 6:00 AM, you'll be fine.
  21. I assume you have a regular pick Up and tag along trailer, not a truck. My Suggestion: PA pike to NJ pike NJ pike north to exit 10 (Edison) East on Interstate 287 which runs into RT-440 Over the Outer Bridge Crossing Bridge North on West Shore Expressway to Interstate I-278 I-278 East and over the Verrazano Narrows Bridge Continue on I-278 Brooklyn Queens Expressway (BQE) to I-495 Long Island Expressway (LIE) Take I-495 LIE East to your destination. All tolls should have EZ Pass. Revised based on trucks prohibited on NY Parkways.
  22. Several points I'd like to make 1. Use good wood to make your bows. Ash is preferred as its strong and stable over time. Suggest adding (including) a slight crown from side-to-side. If you ever get water on the top you want it to roll off, not puddle in the center. Custom fit your bows into the existing wood. Fasten using screws and glue. Rotary tools like 1/8 carbide cutters were helpful for my project. 2. Acquire pics from other Dodge owners with the same model car. Use them as a guide for form and shape. 3. An important part of top replacement is how the edge gets finished. This is where the fabric meets the body. Some cars have a molding strip at certain sections. Others may have a rubber molding or a caulking method. 4. A good sealant is 3M 5200 in full caulking tubes. Used extensively in the Marine industry and is available from West Marine or other on-line suppliers.
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