Jrbrks

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About Jrbrks

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  • Birthday 07/16/1955

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  1. Thank you, Bill. i am very slowly learning to work on a vehicle of this vintage. It was not entirely clear to me, when I looked at the service/owner’s manual. I appreciate the information. Best Jin
  2. When I remove the wood wheel from the front of my 1929 Model 135, will the outer brake drum be removed with the wheel? Do I need to remove the tire and rim before removing the wood wheel, or can I remove it as a single entity? I think my wheel cylinder may be plugged, as I replaced the flexible brake line, and I can get no fluid out of the bleeder. Fluid runs through the end of the flexible hose, so I am guessing the brake fluid flow is plugged somewhere in the wheel cylinder. The flexible hose I replaced was deteriorated and leaking, but only a very small amount. Thanks Jim
  3. Thank you, Joe. My 442 is restored and driven. I keep the 442 stock, but I realize original factory replacement parts may not always be a practical option. I can do the adjustments that may be required, as you have suggested. Thanks, again, for the help and advice. Jim
  4. Joe Is the CPA38 a poor choice? This is a $15-$20 part plus shipping (EBay auction aside), so that is not the issue. Is the Carbs Unlimited part listed above a more specific option? I would like to do the repair properly. Thank you, Jim
  5. Thank you for the great advice and feedback. I appreciate it. It helps to call it by a proper name. The Olds factory manual calls it a “vacuum break assembly”, the factory parts manual calls it a “control” (Thank you, Joe), and a “choke pull off” to everyone else. Joe, i purchased the following: Standard Motor Products CPA 38 I do not know, if this is the proper part, as per the factory, but multiple sites listed it as a “correct” part. I am clearly not a carburetor expert, so adjusting a “flat spot” may be beyond my current skills/experience. i plugged the hose coming from the carburetor, while I am waiting for the replacement part. While I am in south central California, where the temperature is rarely colder than 40 F, the car actually seems to start and run a little better on what we consider to be cold mornings. Thanks, again, to all who weighed in with advice and help. Jim
  6. I do not know, as the part is now broken. But, I am assuming it is involved in some manner. Thanks, Jim
  7. One additional question: This part is labeled as a "Vacuum Break Assembly" in the 1968 Oldsmobile shop manual. Is this also a "Choke Pulloff"? I apologize, if this is a dumb question. Thanks, Jim
  8. One additional question: This part is labeled as a "Vacuum Break Assembly" in the 1968 Oldsmobile shop manual, but would it also be considered a "Choke Pulloff" as well? I apologize, if this is a really silly question. Thanks, Jim
  9. Does anyone know a source for a vacuum break assembly for the 4MV carburetor on a 1968 Oldsmobile? It has a stock (to my knowledge) 400 engine and stock carburetor. Pictures are attached. It seems the assembly just split apart I pulled my car onto ramps to grease the chassis and smelled plastic burning. When I removed the air cleaner, I found the plastic vacuum break assembly had come apart. i would appreciate any advice and/or source for a replacement part. Also, it seems the car will run ok with this not functioning. Is this correct?  Thanks Jim    
  10. Does anyone know a source for a vacuum break assembly for the 4MV carburetor on a 1968 Oldsmobile? It has a stock (to my knowledge) 400 engine and stock carburetor. Pictures are attached. It seems the assembly just split apart I pulled my car onto ramps to grease the chassis and smelled plastic burning. When I removed the air cleaner, I found the plastic vacuum break assembly had come apart. i would appreciate any advice and/or source for a replacement part. Also, it seems the car will run ok with this not functioning. Is this correct? Thanks Jim
  11. For information or leads on a Packard 120 or later model (1935-1940) Super 8 or 160/180, I can be reached at email: jrbrks@gmail.com Phone or text: 818.935.1628 Thank you, Jim
  12. For leads on a Packard 120, I can be contacted via email at: jrbrks@gmail.com I am located in Southern California, but I would be willing to ship the right car within the U.S. i can be reached by text or phone at 818.935.1628 Thanks Jim
  13. I am looking for a 1936-1940 Packard 120. I would prefer a coupe or club sedan, but I would consider any model of a restored/survivor, within this time period. This is to be a driver which is used regularly (I am located on the west coast). Thanks for any leads. Jim
  14. I am looking for a 1936-1940 Packard 120. I would prefer a coupe or club sedan, but I would look at all models of good restored/survivor “drivers” within this time period. Thanks for any leads. Jim
  15. Thank you for sharing! The video is really powerful! My only add would be a voiceover defining each of the parts as it is being assembled for those of us not as familiar with all the parts. Jin