Packard Don

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

8 Neutral

About Packard Don

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 09/15/1951

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Sunnyvale, CA
  • Interests:
    Packards, Imperials and Cadillacs; Vintage Polaroid cameras and vintage video including Cartrivision and reel-to-reel. I love folk and most any kind of world music and have produced professionally released several CDs and LPs for Peruvian singer Yma Sumac. Formerly a journeyman toolmaker, I am a Web and database programmer now and also licensed by the California DMV for Vehicle VIN Verification. I've owned theremins (the oldest electric musical instrument, invented in 1919) since I was ten years old and built my first one and currently have a replica of the type built by RCA in the '30s.


  • Biography
    I have owned Packards since the mid '60s when, at 16 years old, I bought a 1939 Six in Northern Washington State and it came with a 1940 110 parts car. A year later I bought 1941 Henney-Packard end loader with extension table and owned it until about ten years ago. Also in the '60s I bought another 1940 Packard 110 sedan in Seattle that must have been there its entire life and was low mileage but with the wrong engine. I replaced the engine with the proper one and owned it until just recently when it was sold and went back east. Starting in the '70s I bought newer Packard, the first being a '51 Henney-Packard combination and later a '54 Patrician. I still have the latter. I also bought a nice museum-quality '52 Henney-Packard Nu-3-Way that I sold and which ended up in Australia! After being up to 22 cars at one point, including several 1965 Cadillacs and several '64-'65 Imperials including a Ghia! Currently I have a '51 Henney-Packard military ambulance, two 1954 Patricians, a '56 Clipper Custom sedan, a 1965 Cadillac Fleetwood 60 Special and a 1965 Imperial LeBaron. I have two newers cars that are also of limited production: 1992 Nissan 240SX convertible which is one of Bly 327 built and a 1985 Plymouth Voyager with the rare Magic Camper option (I've never seen another).

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. It turns out that the longer driveshaft I have would be the one for your car. Interestingly, the shorter one is from a 1951 Henney-Packard on the huge 156” wheelbase which has a shorter secondary shaft to extend it.
  2. Here are some better photos of the factory welds, one on the shaft shown above and one on the identical one that I have. The one with oil on it is the second one. No cobbled together parts in my shop!
  3. No, that’s the way it came from the factory. Depending on the manufacturer (there were several) they all had the weld but the photos made it look odd and I thought the same thing based only on those. The other one like it that I have has the identical weld.
  4. Note that it is extremely rural where my shop is and I am leaving on Monday so there is only one day left (Friday) where there is a possibility to ship so I need to hear from you quickly as I would have to get it packed tomorrow (Thursday). In the meantime, here is another driveshaft that is 58" long but I am fairly certain that it is from a 1951 Henney-Packard and is shown here next to the one on the photos above.
  5. The length is about right but one of your photos shows what appears to be a postwar Ultramatic universal joint so I'm not sure what you are actually looking for. I have both types so can you confirm that we are talking about a 1941 110? These are photos of a 1940 110 driveshaft which is about 52" long center yoke to yoke fully compressed. I don't have a way to extend it to see what it measures but it appears that it can get at least 6" longer if not quite a bit more. I also have another that is also out of a 1940 110 but the telescoping yoke is not there. I have it somewhere but not sure where offhand.
  6. Are you still looking for a driveshaft? I am at my shop until the end of the week and can take a look.
  7. I have many 1940 110 pumps, if I can locate them, which should be the same. Not sure, though, so you may need to do some research. I am currently at my shop but only to the end of the week and it will be a few months before I return so let me know via PM if you want me to get them out for photos.
  8. Ah, you're completely missing the wheel. I thought you had a non-true one that you were replacing. The driveshaft places will rebuild and balance it so no worries there but I will look when I'm next at my shop to see what I have. I believe I have at least one but not sure and it would help if you sent photos and a rough length of yours so I can be sure. I have many driveshafts, not all Packard, and most look alike. You can contact me directly through my Packard / IMPERIAL page below if you want.
  9. I believe you also posted the same question on another forum. If you have a wheel, there are services that can easily and inexpensively check and true it as needed. Even the very rural Central Oregon area where my own shop is, there is such a place. On the driveshaft, there are driveshaft services all over that can shorted your original for you which is what I did on my 1940 110 when adding overdrive. They prefer having the car there to do it but will also do it if you give them the needed length or at least tell them how much shorter it needs to be. The original R9 overdrive might be a different length than later R9 units and different than R11 units so best to have the replacement available to measure and compare to the original.
  10. Again, the age of the vehicle has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with it. If it’s out of the DMV database, it must be verified but even if it’s still in the system by whatever strange means, if no documents, then it will be very difficult to re-title. Even to simply verify it, one must have either the title or a registration card even if expired. A bill of sale will not suffice and neither will any DMV receipts or printouts.
  11. There is no $20 annual fee for no-op. Although the DMV had made it annual many years ago which is how my own cars fell out of the DMV system, it is a one-time fee now and has been for at least the last decade or two although they recommend to “renew” it every five years by resubmitting without any payment just to assure it doesn't get removed. Same with unused vanity plates if you want to use them at some future date. As for the back payments, not sure but I’ve never had to pay any myself although your situation seem an odd one as without registration for all those years it should no longer be in the DMV system. As I handle only VIN verifications and I’m not a DMV employee, I can’t speak outside my own experiences.
  12. This is absolutely not true, or at least it is no longer true. Any and all vehicles including trailers, RVs, tiny homes and mobile homes must be verified if not already in the CA DMV database.
  13. I used to use Bleche-Wite on my tires until I read that the strong chemicals can change the surface of the rubber making it get dirty and yellow more quickly and even to deteriorate. Not sure how true it is but, as I recall, that was on the Diamond Back tire site.
  14. I had a 1964 Ghia-Imperial from the early ‘70 until about 15 years ago and it was a real head-turner wherever it went. Not the landau model as yours and unrestored but still looked good. Yours is gorgeous but the wheel covers from a later model don’t suit it particularly well. Is there a story behind them? Also interesting is the lack of LeBaron name plates that mine had on the front fenders and right side of the trunk lid. If it’s not already there, please be sure to add it to the Ghia-Imperial roster on my Packard / IMPERIAL page and if it is there, please send a private message to me with any updates.
  15. After all this time you've probably gotten it worked out but here is my two-cents worth anyway. As a journeyman prototype machinist (long out of the trade), drilling chrome is a very tough job at best. As the plating is only on the surface, it will likely chip or flake at the edges of the holes leaving unprotected areas that will eventually cause corrosion to the base metal. Best to strip it, drill and tap the holes, then replate.