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  1. Thanks guys, I will give it a shot. Looks it's off to a machine shop. I think that king pin has a hole down the center too as there are threads for grease fittings on both ends. I'll clean it up and take a closer look.
  2. Hello! I'm looking for a Timken king pin set off a 1923 Gotfredson Model 20, 1-ton truck, which I believe has a Timken 1250 front axle. Am I going to have to get these machined, ya think? If so, am I going to have to take the entire front axle into the machine shop, or can I get away with just taking the steering knuckle in? The TOP bushings are missing in action from both sides. Does anybody have an old Timken catalog with specs? Maybe I could get a larger size king pin and machine it down? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  3. This may be posted elsewhere, but the attached photos show the top and bottom thread sizes for a model 216-O Stewart Vacuum Tank. I believe other Stewart vacuum tanks with the same top have the same threads. If your top is cracked, you can get an aluminum reproduction from this company in Australia. Not cheap but nice, quality work. (I am not affiliated with this company but I did purchase a top for a different tank I was restoring). Also, Hal at at Classic Preservation sells rebuild kits. Aluminum top: https://vintageandclassicreproductions.com/product/stewart-vacuum-tank-top-39/ Rebuild kit: http://www.classicpreservation.com/vactankkits.html
  4. What company logo is that on the side of my gas tank sediment bulb from a 1927 Gotfredson truck (vehicle made in Detroit)?
  5. Found this. Marvel number unknown. https://classiccarbs.com.au/index.php?_route_=Marvel-Model-H-Carburettor-Air-Valve-Spring-Type-1-has-many-applications-inc-Buick-1922-25-900.M001-
  6. Hello! I am trying to figure out which Marvel air valve spring will work with my carb in the attached photo. It is currently installed on a Buda HS-6 engine (not original vehicle): http://gotfredson.org/models/BUDA_HS-6.pdf My carb is similar to this one, which is labeled a "1928 Pontiac Marvel Model A" on the Old Carb Doctor web site: http://www.oldcarbdoctor.com/photos.html Additionally, I saw a photo posted a couple years ago by CarbKing Jon (also attached). Does anybody have one of these Marvel parts books that identifies the air valve spring by number or photo? Thanks!
  7. Hello, I am looking for a choke lever for my 1927 Gotfredson truck. These photos are from another Gotfredson owner. Has anybody ever seen one of these? I am interested to know what other types/years of vehicles they came on. The patent was filed in 1918. It was made of stamped steel so not that easy to make. The Shakespeare Company eventually morphed into a fishing rod company. https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/db/79/25/ddc0df11e2f7f6/US1260465.pdf cheers!
  8. Yeah that grease nipple is not original. It will be replaced with a grease cup. Originally, it had two grease cups... one for the packing and one for the bushing, I believe. Probably better to turn the grease into the packing while the shaft is turning, I would guess.
  9. Thanks all! Will try to repack now, and if it doesn't work, will rebuild later.
  10. Is this guy still in business? http://water-pump-rebuilders.com/ Tony Coenradi 200 Davis Creek Road Selma, OR 97538 USA *** update*** yes, just spoke to Wade from the Flying Dutchman company. Very informative guy.
  11. This water pump is from a 1926 Gotfredson farm truck with a Buda WTU 4 cylinder engine. The pump seems to work fine. Circulation is fine. It just leaks a bit too much. I understand some leakage is necessary for lubrication. How many drips per minute is normal for a 1" diameter shaft? The gland nuts seemed to be tightened all the way. I loosened them up and pulled away the brass washers. I can't see any packing material at all. See photos below. Can I just remove the old packing (if there is any left), clean up the shaft, and put new packing rings in without removing the entire pump? Or, should I remove the entire pump and have it rebuilt with modern, not leaking seals? I am thinking I just unbolt it from the fan pulley to remove it? Any advice on where I could send it be rebuilt, if necessary? Thanks in advance!
  12. Tried 25% kerosene. Ran really smooth (on jack stands).
  13. Thanks Rusty. I am looking at these. http://www.frantzfilters.com/product/universal-kit/ http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Model-A-B-air-cleaner-K-N-filter-system-vintage-new-Tillotson-Zenith-Carb-/160908017894 Never thought about the crankcase ventilator. I have to look for it.
  14. I found this old article on Google Books from 1919 (my Buda WTU is a 1926). I may as well post it here. There's a PDF of the article also attached. I am curious about your thoughts concerning the section of the the article I outlined in a red box, re: using Kerosene to clean out the crank case. If it is possible, it seems like a good idea seeing as the engine does not have an oil filter. Thanks again! 1919 Buda Operation, Care, Repair.pdf
  15. If I mixed about 25% kerosene with 87 octane gas, what would be the advantages and effect on horsepower, torque, engine lubrication, carbon deposits on the spark plugs, smoke from exhaust pipe, etc? I understand the octane rating would be lowered. But what would it do and would I even notice the difference? I live in San Diego so I never start the engine below freezing temp. As you can see from the photo above, the intake manifold is somewhat wrapped around the exhaust manifold. I read in an old Buda manual that the company made different intake/exhaust manifolds, depending on whether the vehicle was going to run on gasoline or kerosene. I have the gasoline variety (I think). The manual says the intake and exhaust manifolds can only be sold together because the ports are machined flat after the two manifolds are mated during assembly. By the way, this truck is not going to be worked hard and it starts every time with 87 octane gas. It does have a bit of an audible miss you can hear at the exhaust pipe when it idles (a very minimal miss). The miss seems to go away at higher RPMs. Thanks all!
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