Gotfredson

Hi y'all, I need to replace this exhaust pipe (from manifold to muffler) on a Buda engine. Does anybody know what tool I can use to create this flare? It's 3/4" in from the end of the pipe. The triangle flange slides up the pipe and seals via the flare. I went to a muffler shop and they said they could do the bends needed to manufacture the pipe, but they could not do the flare. Cheers!

The soaking paid off. I got one rod out. Just one left to go. I will post photos when I get them all out. BTW, these spacer type clips were on the rod/tube I just removed. Does anybody recognize these types of clips? What are they called? I saw some literature that may have called them a "tube spring silencers" but I may be wrong. They basically keep the tube within a tube separated from each other. The tubes have slight indentations cut into them to hold them in place.

Still soaking that steering column. Here are some photos of a similar Gemmer (1912) box with the spark and throttle rods removed. Mine is a 1923 Gemmer. The owner of this Michigan car told me he had no problem removing the rods. https://michiganmotorcar.com/nuts-bolts-2/steering-and-dashboard/ I am getting ready to take the whole steering assembly to a machine shop, though I am not sure exactly what they could do. I have tried heat cycles (with an acetylene torch) and soaking in both purple power and the "home brew" above. The center rod came out easily, but the second one is stuck and starting to get damaged now. Once removed, I will probably have to replace it with a new tube.

I think that cork washer was meant to keep the grease inside the housing from leaking excessively through the bushing, and there is a grease fitting on the outer end of the shaft to grease the bushing. I like this stuff now: https://penriteoil.com.au/products/semi-fluid-steering-box-grease I think I will give that "home brew" a try for soaking the steering rod within a rod within a rod. Thanks.

Hi all, I dove into this 1923 Gemmer (Model 75?) steering box. It's a worm and wheel box. I found a deteriorated washer between the wheel and the housing. But I am not sure about the washer material. Looks like cork, maybe? Looking to answer a few questions: - What is that washer material? Is there a better replacement? - Should I fill it with grease or that heavy steering box fluid? (Looks like it has a fill hole and one grease cup hole). - Any advice on how to get the long steering (spark and accelerator) rods out of the center tube? They are rusted in tight. I am thinking a torch to heat up the outer tubes. Thanks in advance!

FYI... 3/8" packing rope was too thick. I went with 1/4" packing rope and it's a nice fit in the groove.

I know this is an old string but it looks like the Spicer dome seal in my 1923 truck was braided graphite packing. Not sure if that was original. I might try 3/8" square packing.

Thanks guys, I will give it a shot. Looks it's off to a machine shop. I think that king pin has a hole down the center too as there are threads for grease fittings on both ends. I'll clean it up and take a closer look.

Hello! I'm looking for a Timken king pin set off a 1923 Gotfredson Model 20, 1-ton truck, which I believe has a Timken 1250 front axle. Am I going to have to get these machined, ya think? If so, am I going to have to take the entire front axle into the machine shop, or can I get away with just taking the steering knuckle in? The TOP bushings are missing in action from both sides. Does anybody have an old Timken catalog with specs? Maybe I could get a larger size king pin and machine it down? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

This may be posted elsewhere, but the attached photos show the top and bottom thread sizes for a model 216-O Stewart Vacuum Tank. I believe other Stewart vacuum tanks with the same top have the same threads. If your top is cracked, you can get an aluminum reproduction from this company in Australia. Not cheap but nice, quality work. (I am not affiliated with this company but I did purchase a top for a different tank I was restoring). Also, Hal at at Classic Preservation sells rebuild kits. Aluminum top: https://vintageandclassicreproductions.com/product/stewart-vacuum-tank-top-39/ Rebuild kit: http://www.classicpreservation.com/vactankkits.html

What company logo is that on the side of my gas tank sediment bulb from a 1927 Gotfredson truck (vehicle made in Detroit)?

Found this. Marvel number unknown. https://classiccarbs.com.au/index.php?_route_=Marvel-Model-H-Carburettor-Air-Valve-Spring-Type-1-has-many-applications-inc-Buick-1922-25-900.M001-

Hello! I am trying to figure out which Marvel air valve spring will work with my carb in the attached photo. It is currently installed on a Buda HS-6 engine (not original vehicle): http://gotfredson.org/models/BUDA_HS-6.pdf My carb is similar to this one, which is labeled a "1928 Pontiac Marvel Model A" on the Old Carb Doctor web site: http://www.oldcarbdoctor.com/photos.html Additionally, I saw a photo posted a couple years ago by CarbKing Jon (also attached). Does anybody have one of these Marvel parts books that identifies the air valve spring by number or photo? Thanks!

Hello, I am looking for a choke lever for my 1927 Gotfredson truck. These photos are from another Gotfredson owner. Has anybody ever seen one of these? I am interested to know what other types/years of vehicles they came on. The patent was filed in 1918. It was made of stamped steel so not that easy to make. The Shakespeare Company eventually morphed into a fishing rod company. https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/db/79/25/ddc0df11e2f7f6/US1260465.pdf cheers!

Yeah that grease nipple is not original. It will be replaced with a grease cup. Originally, it had two grease cups... one for the packing and one for the bushing, I believe. Probably better to turn the grease into the packing while the shaft is turning, I would guess.