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Poppy510

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  1. How did you seal cracks in the exhaust manifold?
  2. I was reading #89,708. Maybe I have #89....or #708...? And the manual that has always been in the car is titled 130 Series, which should have been for the 1928 Victory 6, vs. 140 Series for the Standard 6. Maybe I have #89 produced early 1928, and only manuals from the Victory were available at that time?
  3. Body code is 1733(3?) - (the last number was drilled through) Engine is J89-708 Which is odd. 75,519 was the last unit produced. I havent located the frame code on the cross member, toe plate, or near the right rear spring.
  4. So how uncommon are Standard 6s? Ive seen a few members with 1928 Standard 6s, but I haven't even seen mention of another 1929 Standard 6. I have searched the forum pretty thoroughly. I had assumed that Standard was standard, garden variety, but most discussion is regarding DAs or Victory 6s.
  5. Just to add personal experience to this post in case it helps someone in the future: My 1929 Standard 6 had stymied family members for years. Always ran rich as hell, belching smoke and dripping fuel from the exhaust pipe. Once I was in a position to take a look, I took a systematic approach. First, vacuum fuel pump. I discovered pin holes in the inner tank, and a broken flapper. Fixed that with a new flapper and fuel tank liner to seal the holes. Second, sticking air valve in carb caused by varnish on shaft. Sticking a finger in the air inlet throat one should be able to raise the air valve up smoothly. If not, take it apart and clean it. Make sure it is not stuck due to a bent metering pin. Third, the metering pin rack was totally mis-adjusted. There is a procedure for setting the rack location relative to the drive pinion that must be followed if the rack has been disassembled, or if there is any doubt as to its correctness. Mine was off, so the metering pin was allowing in too much fuel. Fourth and most important: the metering pin has a small washer/cylinder swaged to the bottom of the pin. This pin/washer assembly fits tightly into the TOP OF THE METERING RACK. It just so happens that the underside of the metering rack, where the spring goes, is the same diameter as the top portion. My metering pin had been assembled from the bottom of the rack up. It fits that way, and it is captured in the rack which seems to make sense because it would prevent the possibility of pin from being separated from the rack and getting sucked up into the valve. Problem is that in this position it cant go up high enough to properly meter the fuel. So, be sure the pin is connected to the TOP of the rack, not up through the underside. Franky, its a bad design...the pin should be captured, but..... Once I got these corrected and adjusted the throttle pedal to allow full range of throttle, she ran better than she probably had in the last 25 years.
  6. I am starting a new topic on this, since my other post was more related to condenser and other tuning. Anyway, I believe the points are shot on my 1929 Standard 6. The fixed point looks like a cup with the contact surface recessed below the lip of the cup. It can be seen if you look very closely at the photo. This may not be the source of all my problems, but it sure isn't helping. I have reached out to another member who had some point available a couple years ago. Are there any other sources of OEM or modern replacement points other than fabricating your own? I would rather not convert over to Pertronix, but don't want to limp around on 100 year old points either.... thanks
  7. good ideas here.......got me thinking...Ive never seen temps above 150. Might be checking the thermostat next.
  8. I take it pretty easy when cold so I am not totally sure, but overall it does not seem to drop off suddenly when hot. I may have been to generous with my assessment of the points. I inspected the mechanical advance thinking maybe I had TOO much advance due to a broken spring or something. I would rate the point condition as "moderate." Not great but I have seen worse. I appreciate your input.
  9. The rotor shaft has very little radial play (.001 according to my calibrated fingers😁). The body of the distributor has a little more play due to the adjustable nature of the design. My overall sense is that once everything is biased and operating in one direction, there is not an excessive amount of slop in the distributor system. I was somewhat hopeful that I would find the rotor shaft more sloppy. I reset the static timing again and picked up a few degrees on the housing, so we'll see if there is any effect. I am still interested in other ideas out there. Thanks!
  10. Carb is Stewart Detroit lubricator. Plug gap is .025. I haven't measured lash yet. Wobbly distributor shaft is a promising sounding lead. How did you measure distributor shaft play? I assume the shaft is on bushings which would need to be replaced.
  11. Hello all, I have worked through most fuel, lubrication, cooling, and braking issues, and I am now down to "performance". Understanding that the car is nearly 100 years old and the term "performance" is relative, I have felt that the performance under load is fairly sluggish. I also experience some slight stumbling under heavier load and at the upper rpm range. Timing is checked, wiring is good, points are good, plugs are good. Also confirmed with a timing light that the mechanical advance is functional. Plenty of fuel is available at the carb. As I would expect, the best performance under load is with full advance. If I retard the timing at all with the hand lever, performance drops of dramatically. Thinking that a little more advance might be beneficial, I rotated the distributor slightly, but this only resulted in an occasional backfire through the carb, along with the general stumble. Honestly, its not bad and if a just putted along at 25 and only went to high gear on the flat or downhill, I would probably never even notice the stumble. My next step is to replace the condenser. Do I need to go straight to Myers Dodge for a special 6V condenser, or is there a known replacement available at NAPA? Any other thoughts? On a separate note, I can hear an exhaust leak coming from firewall side of the exhaust manifold but I cant find it for the life of me. I'm thinking may be a crack in the back of the manifold or something. I cant however imagine that this would cause the performance issue I am observing.
  12. So the Derale fan didnt even come close to fitting. It had a 1.5 inch offset from the mount to the blade leading edge, whereas the stock fan is .75 inches. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CN6U1I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Now I have a 74 Pinto/Mustang fan on order.🙄
  13. Im confused. Is it a Pinto or a Mustang? I dont think Im going to be happy with the look of a new flex fan, so I'm eager to source one from a Pinto or Mustang.
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