Stevemo

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About Stevemo

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  • Birthday 09/04/1979

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  1. I can email a PDF of the photo for anybody who truly needs it. That's about the only solution to the photo being resized.
  2. I made a YouTube video of this set but couldn't include the application chart so I'm sticking it here and cross referencing it with the video. This set is from 1962 and has specific applications between 1938 and 1962 but can be used on many more generic applications. Models listed by application include Buick, Cadillac, Chevrolet, Corvair, Chevy II, Chrysler, Comet, DeSoto, Dodge, Dart, Lancer, Edsel, Ford, Falcon, Thunderbird, Frazer, Hudson, Imperial, Kaiser, Henry Jr., Lincoln Continental, Mercury, Nash, Oldsmobile, F85, Packard, Plymouth, Pontiac, Tempest, Rambler, Studebaker, Lark, Valiant, Willys, Light Trucks, Heavy Trucks, Volkswagen, MG, Jaguar, Simea. Sales Literature: https://archive.org/details/SnapOnToolsCatalogBB1970/page/n113 https://archive.org/details/SnapOnToolsCatalogY1962/page/n113 CG630B CG-630B CG630-B Form SB-142C
  3. I finished the big paper template. I think I am going to save it as a single piece and go back to make door bottom templates. This will make sure I maintain the proper positions of everything.
  4. I've added a new video showing how I'm doing a template of the sides of the car.
  5. We build up babbit at work with a TIG torch when the damage doesn't warrant a re-pour. Our smallest shafts are 6" in diameter so there is lots of space for the TIG torch.
  6. When I got the car it had a Ford 289 in it that was full of water. The 302 is about the same engine so I knew it would fit so that is why I am going this route plus I was able to buy the donor van for $500. Things should really get going once the weather improves. It's too cold to lay on the floor or do anything that requires dexterity. I think I can put in 16 hours a week for the next 5 or 6 months.
  7. I will be posting videos on my YouTube channel now that I'm ramping up on restoring this 1934 Hupmobile 417W Rebuild. I'm not sure if "restoration" is the correct word in this case. I've had it for a number of years now and I'm itching to get it on the road. The intent is to hammer away at it to the point of it becoming a rolling restoration as soon as possible. The engine/transmission will not be correct but everything else will be. Please watch the "Where to start?" Video and provide pointers. I am more comfortable with chassis work that body work so I'm struggling to start with the body work. I know I can get more done faster when working on the chassis. Cheers, Steve
  8. A couple of days ago I bought a steering wheel puller but as can be seen in the photos the wheel is not set up for it. I am going to try and drill/tap the wheel so I can get it off. I actually have a squirt bottle of acetone/atf that I have been using along the way. It does the job but I suppose the wheel won't just "pop off" so I need a way to grab onto it. Cheers, Steve
  9. Hi all, I am trying to get the steering wheel off of my car but it is stuck to the splined shaft. I have beat on it a bit but it is bending the shaft so I need to find a smarter solution. Are there any tricks to pulling these things apart? I undid the steering column bracket and the slip connection on the steering box but this is not helping. Is it possible that the steering box shaft extends all the way to the steering wheel? Please help. If anybody has a better matching steering wheel I'd be interested in purchasing it. Regards, Steve
  10. Here are some photos, these shocks are amazing devices internally. There is actually a bi-metallic strip to adjust the shock piston based on temperature. As expected, the seal is loose externally. I need to get some epoxy to get it to hold in the housing. I also found that the adjustment screw passes through a leather seal. I did not replace this as it is hard to get to but I think it will be OK. Steve
  11. Alright, progress is slow but steady. I am including some information but it is tailored around fixing leaking seals. If your shocks have not had water get into them they should be pretty easy to maintain. Disassembly: Remove plug from shock; Lightly seat the adjustment screw under the plug, count how many turns it took and write down the value (front and rear shocks will have different settings); Drain the shock into a container so you can attempt to measure the amount of fluid and use it to compare viscosity with other fluids; Index the location of the lever to the splined shaft by stamping them with dots; Hit the hub with the flats around the edge with a hammer a few times to loosen it up, it is actually a large threaded retaining ring. Remove the retaining ring with a large pair of oil filter pliers; Pull on the shaft with enough force to dislodge the face of the shock from the body (probably best done with a slide hammer); and Make note of the alignment within the shock, you will notice the shaft and cap are keyed to the body of the shock and cannot be assembled improperly. Inspection: Inspect the tightness of the shaft to its rotating points. There is a blind hole in the back of the body and one through the cap and they should not have any slop; These could be repaired by installing bushings and machining the shaft to suit; Inspect the counterweight like assembly and how it fits against the body of the shock. I suppose this could be checked with a feeler gauge; Take the adjustment screw out and inspect the orifice mechanics for anything unusual; and Clean everything up with your solvent of choice. Parts: Seal, SKF 8620, this seal is a bit of a compromise in that it is a couple thousandths small on the OD so it may need to be held in with LocTite; http://www.skf.com/ca/en/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/radial-shaft-seals-pt/index.html?designation=8620&unit=imperialUnit Quad-ring (similar to a square-ring but more common), Size 4-041 or 4041, 3.000 x 3.125 x 0.070"; and http://o-ring.info/en/technical manual/ERIKS - Technical Manual - Quad-rings.pdf Fluid, TBD, I need to do some experimenting. Reassembly: Lubricate the shaft with the fluid you are going to use and drop it in to position; Lubricate the quad-ring and stretch it over the cap; Install cap; Install threaded retaining ring; Install lever according to index markings you made; Mount shock on car but do not hook up linkage; Adjust screw as per findings during disassembly; Fill shock to bottom of filler hole and actuate shock several times, refill and repeat Install plug; and Hook up linkage. I have not gotten to the point of reassembly yet. The groove in the shaft where the leather seal used to be may interfere with the lip of the modern seal being installed. If this occurs the groove may need to be filled in with epoxy and then covered with a Speedi-sleeve. The Speedi-sleeve to go with the seal is SKF 99087. http://www.skf.com/ph/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-seals-skf-speedi-sleeve/index.html?designation=99087&unit=imperialUnit Cheers, Steve
  12. I find it kind of funny that I haven't found a fastener with a thread pitch on my 1934 that is stocked in stores so far. Is it common with all old cars to run into UNS fasteners? When did the sizes in UNF and UNC get settled on? The latest oddball to crop up is 1/2-24 for the shock mounts. Be careful out there, it you strip a fastener you may very well end up having to get a new one made... Cheers, Steve
  13. Hi all, I have made a new drag link and tie rod for my 1934 417W Hupmobile but I am running into a problem. I used regular tie rod ends that are still made by MOOG and the one that fits into the pitman arm does not have a long enough stud to offset the drag link. As a result, the drag link hits the rear spring shackle when turning right. I only need about 1/2" clearance so I was thinking about bending the pitman arm out away from the frame. Is the pitman arm made of a material that I can heat up with my oxy acetylene torch and make the bend? I do not want to risk breaking what may be the only good part on my car. I've attached a photo I took to remind myself how to re-install the fender. Cheers, Steve
  14. Hi All, I am getting ready to do the frame work on my car and I've decided to start with the rotary shocks. As it turns out nobody seems to have posted much of anything on the Gabriel rotary shocks so I thought I'd start a thread. The outer assembly is fairly basic. There is a nut and star washer holding on a lever arm. Behind that you will find a dirt shield and a spring to keep dirt from damaging the leather seal and the shaft. I took some basic measurements on the shock shaft as follows for a Hupmobile 417W: Seal Depth, max would be 0.420", depth could be less or even higher if allowed to stick outSeal OD, 1.141", this value cannot be expanded by very muchShaft OD, 0.870", shaft will require a sleeve It seems like the seal OD is the real limitation. If anybody knows the part # for the seal that Apple Hydraulic installs in these shocks please let me know. Their prices for servicing 4 shocks is simply out of reach for many people. What are people using for fluid in these? I read that people are using Mobil 15w50 in the Houdaille's. http://phscollectorcarworld.blogspot.ca/2015/03/tech-series-houdaille-hydraulic-shock.html Thanks, Steve
  15. Hi guys, I am trying to upload a 1934 to 1948 leaf spring catalogue that is full of useful information but I am getting "Failed to upload", "No file was selected to upload", etc at the end of each upload. I get to 100% and then the error comes up in red. The file is a 10 MB PDF, is this blocked in some way? I want to make it available to everybody. Thanks, Steve