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About GraniteBayBob

  • Birthday 02/24/1942

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  1. Replacing roof on '27 Chrysler model 50 four door sedan. Would like to know what kind of wood to use; for wood slates or even if wood slates or other material should be used? Replaced some of the bows and placed some 3/16 ply on but it shows some peeks and valleys between bows. Still have the old slates and placed on roof and they seemed to round out the contour of the roof without the peeks and valleys. Several of original slates are twisted and warped and unusable. What is best wood to use for slates? Or is there a better method than using wood slates? The slates add the need to place chicken wire, cotton batting or foam. So is there a best method for roof replacement? Thank you for assistance.
  2. Where can I find the rubber insert for roof rain gutter for '27 Chrysler /50? I cleaned up the metal and repainted but now need to find the rubber insert. Base of rubber looks to be 5/8" wide. Tried Mac's and Snyder's with no luck. Thank you.
  3. Looking to replace drive shaft flex u-joint discs for my '27 Chrysler model 50. Any information would be welcomed. Looks like BMW's use similar flex discs, will any of them work on my car? Thanx
  4. Existing vacuum assisted fuel cylinder is not providing enough gas to keep engine running. I would like to add an electric fuel pump to provide adequate gas source to Model A carburetor on my engine. Is there something I should check to make existing fuel cylinder work? Want to fix if possible before installing fuel pump. Any suggestions on the best method to install electric fuel pump and model to purchase? Thanks
  5. Hi, Update of missing linkage on carburetor. I improvised in such a way that dash choke is original but has the added feature of being able to adjust gas needle valve. Used a speedometer cable and it looks and works great. Thanks for everyone's help.
  6. Thank you, thank you guys. Looks like I have a little more work to do. Does the 45 degree tube come out? I tried and it would not budge. Pretty mush rounded off the corners trying to remove it. Are there any photos or YouTube videos that high lite this adjustment rod? I appreciate all the good information! Maybe some place that has all the parts (used)? Well got the tube removed, had to hammer on 10 mm box wrench to re-establish corners on nut. Now I see what you were talking about on adjusting mixture (and YouTube). Don't known if the previous owner adjusted mixture, don't see how. My existing choke is in middle of dash cluster. Is it possible to use existing choke location by using a flex cable through a tube? Then you could still adjust and pull for choking. How did you set up yours? Mac's looks like it also has all the parts.
  7. viv w, Thanks for reply. Yes this is probably not the original as shown in owners manual but a Ford model A. It is in excellent shape except for the venturi which was pot metal. I've ordered a venturi from Snyder's for five bucks. Everything else I cleaned up and it looks good. Do you know what that two inch long tube that comes out at a 45 degree angle towards the intake end does. Tried blowing air through and spraying with brake cleaner, no air seemed to pass thru. I did get engine to fire up for the first time 45+ years It would stop when I tried to accelerate due to venturi being broken and part of it missing. Very rewarding experience.
  8. Model 50 but any carburetor that will work or knowledge of a site that may carry parts or whole units.
  9. That's good to know, but in this case the ground is connected to the positive side of the battery; so I'm still not sure about the lead from coil to ignition the switch were the negative is coming from. In some cases the negative is not always ground/earth or vice versa. Maybe I'm over thinking this thing. P.S. Thank you Rust_OToole, That is what I was thinking. Missed your post b4 sending this.
  10. One question: on a positive ground 6 volt system the lead from the ignition switch to the coil, should it be connected to the positive or negative side of the coil? Or does it make a difference?
  11. No, the head has not been planed. I only cleaned it up. Good news I got it running (3 times) but only about 10 seconds. It was chocked and did't run long enough to make adjustments. Then it acted like it wasn't getting spark. I felt the coil and it was very warm. Should it get warm? Has voltage on both + and - side, it only has no voltage it seems like when points close; is this correct? Would like to get answers to this before trying to start again. Thanks.
  12. Thanks you Spinneyhill for your help. With heads off could crank easily with even force.So rechecked cam/timing gear and verified TDC also reset tappets. Did all that when I had the engine out and it was much easier. I'll put heads back on recheck compression and try to start. Fingers crossed.
  13. Thanks for the input. I did have all the plugs removed when trying to crank and getting the difficulty completing a full revolution. Pulled the head last night to check cylinder walls. Specs diameter 3.6285 (3 5/8), had a difference on one cylinder of 3.6335. This with caliper at top of cylinder, I'll have to get the tool for checking lower down in the cylinder. I did replace fiber cam gear with an aluminum gear. Will take a look at that also. Today's engines are higher compression but what should I be getting? The tool from Harbor Freight does not hold the pressure when under 30 pounds. The little valve stem gadget will not seat at low pressure.
  14. New pistons, rings and valves. Honed piston walls. Reassembled and did compression test. Would like to know what kind of pressure to expect while hand cranking. Got 22+- psi on all four cylinders dry but wet I started to get different results. Two squirts of oil: 30 30 26 28 Two more squirts: 40 35 35 37 again this is hand cranking, because the starter only makes 1/2 rotation at a time. When cranking there seems to be a lot of resistance on bottom part of rotation. Question is all of this normal or should I be getting different results? What should I expect?
  15. Looking for rear door hinges for '27 model 50. Would like both sides but need passenger side. It appears the rear door was hit in possible accident at some time. If these are common with other years or models that would be nice to know. Thanx
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