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Evapo Rust……the final word. Watch the entire video.


edinmass

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Ok boys. I think I’m the first guy to recommend Evapo Rust here 15-20 years ago. I especially like it to clean blocks and radiators. Heat speeds up the process as explained in the video. I would not use it on a frame like in the video…..to each his own. Great for rusty tools. Please watch the entire video, as the chemical reactions are explained in different areas of the video. It won’t touch paint, brass, copper, aluminum, or anything else. It binds with the oxygen in the rust and leaves metal alone. Back in the 60’s a NASCAR guy soaked his entire car body in hydrochloric acid……..made the metal thinner and thus his “stock car” lost half its weight. It was the same guy who made his fuel line four inches in diameter to carry twice the fuel load…….worked great till they changed the rules! Enjoy……

 

FYI- it’s fifteen thousand dollars of Evapo Rust. Fortunately YouTube and the manufacturer carry the out of pocket cost…….500,000 views in just five days.

 

 

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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I remember the acid dipping. Penske had to add a vinyl top because the thin metal developed small ripples and dents so easily. Also the brilliant idea giant fuel line that added extra capacity while keeping with the tank size specified. 

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Thanks for posting this video. Evapo Rust is great stuff. I always wondered how it worked. There is an easy way he could have done this job in a single dip. Place in the tank as many empty 5 gallon buckets with a rock needed to raise the surface above the frame. I add objects to make a little Evapo Rust go farther and cover the rusty object. 

 

This made for an entertaining video but the cost of the Evapo Rust makes it impractical to clean a frame this way in real life.  

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Evapo Rust is good for cleaning small parts especially irregular shaped parts like lamp buckets. Read the instruction carefully before use. At times your help is needed. When the fluid gets black it needs to be replaced, Use a swede brush to brush the remaining rust  and soak  and repeat  until clean. To remove rust streaks from your regular driver, paint the affected area with  a paint brush, like washing motion ,  until rust is gone. The secret is to help it by wire brushing .I dipped a light socket with surface rust in a plastic container and forgot about  it over the winter. It made a large hole in one corner . When the water dries out it leave a mush like gum which eats away at the metal, If you soak your dash gauge overnight the paint and numbers will  be gone by morning. Clean your gauges by wash painting it with a fine paint brush . DO NOT SOAK.  I cleaned the surface rust from the inside of the bumpers on my 72 MGB by using the paint brush method and helping with the fine wire brush. Wash with warm water an quickly dry, heat an paint.

Today there is a plethora of videos on UTUBE. 80% propaganda  PICK SENSE FROM NONSENSE . 

 

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I've always been a believer, great stuff, in fact I am cleaning some things in a heated ultrasonic cleaner in the garage this evening....

 

But, does anyone have thoughts and evidence on whether evaporust harms babbitt, as in the babbitt on connecting rods?

Babbitt varieties = lead, tin, nickel....

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2 hours ago, Leif in Calif said:

I remember the acid dipping. Penske had to add a vinyl top because the thin metal developed small ripples and dents so easily. Also the brilliant idea giant fuel line that added extra capacity while keeping with the tank size specified. 


As we said at the track countless times…..it’s not cheating if you don’t get caught! Some day I will wright a book…..

 

 

 

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Impressive results. I’ve had excellent results on a much smaller scale using a 2 gallon parts washer to clean up small parts and tools.

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It works really well to clean the scuzzy green corrosion off nickel plated parts as well.  I took a bunch of NOS window winders and door handles off a display for them and threw them and the chrome ones in the vat.  Took them out, light scrub off with a toothbrush and they didn't have a speck of corrosion on them,  plus the back sides were as clean as the front.  Anybody that has ever cleaned the green scuzz off nickel knows it's a real PIA and you always seem to scratch the nickel as it's soft.   Excellent for detailed pieces that are really hard to get in the nooks and crannies.

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The frame in the video just has a light surface rust, the metal should have been coated when they 'blasted' it the first time. But from reading the above it seems like most already know how great Evaporust really works, especially on old rusty and crusty stuff.

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22 hours ago, edinmass said:

Ok boys. I think I’m the first guy to recommend Evapo Rust here 15-20 years ago. I especially like it to clean blocks and radiators. Heat speeds up the process as explained in the video. I would not use it on a frame like in the video…..to each his own. Great for rusty tools. Please watch the entire video, as the chemical reactions are explained in different areas of the video. It won’t touch paint, brass, copper, aluminum, or anything else. It binds with the oxygen in the rust and leaves metal alone. Back in the 60’s a NASCAR guy soaked his entire car body in hydrochloric acid……..made the metal thinner and thus his “stock car” lost half its weight. It was the same guy who made his fuel line four inches in diameter to carry twice the fuel load…….worked great till they changed the rules! Enjoy……

 

FYI- it’s fifteen thousand dollars of Evapo Rust. Fortunately YouTube and the manufacturer carry the out of pocket cost…….500,000 views in just five days.

 

 

Thanks Eddie for letting me know about Evapo Rust over 15 plus years ago. It really worked on my radiator's and water jacket problems. 

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Like to clean the rust inside the engine block ?  Drain and blow the fluid from the system and fill with vapor rust . Remove the thermostat first. Leave for about 30  hours and drain.   Repeat if necessary. 

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One word of warning with evaporust, it helped me find a crack in a block I didn’t know about. I wonder how many years it would have been before I had an issue if I never cleaned the rust out of the painted over crack. 

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Been Using if for years around 10+ now, on my 1929 & 1930 Chevrolet parts... I like that is WORKS and is NON-Toxic, and safe for plastics :)
also did a radiator engine cooling system cleaning with it, was great, basically ran it in car for about 3 months, heat cycles work great and MAN it did a great job in the block and head as well as radiator. I did run a filter screen (GANO) in the return line to he radiator to keep any gunk out of it !!

 

i put it in old peanut butter plastic jars for small parts n pieces. when it stops working, then start a new batch :) 

 

got 1-1/2 gallons of it in my garage, still using for other things... 

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I successfully used ER to clean one of my Crosley's cooling systems. Decided to get more sophisticated in my next Crosley to clean and put a filter in the upper radiator hose.  I filled it with ER and ran it a shot time and was letting it sit with the plan to run it a few more heat cool cycles and life got in the way and when I got back to it a few weeks later its had found a rust filled pin hole in a metal adapter in the lower hose that was for the heater and all the ER was on the floor. No problem changed the lower hose and when I was getting ready for another try I filled the system again.  Not sure why I didn't wait till I was ready to run the system but again I filled it and it was few days till I ready to run the engine. When I walked into my shop to another mess.  Not sure exactly what happened but apparently the radiator had some leaks that were plugged by rust.  So now it has fallen back on my list of projects so I will leave it empty till I get a clutch put in another Crosley and a radiator in my Ford F1 fixed.  Still haven't tested the filter idea but wait to use another gallon of ER.

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20 hours ago, gossp said:

One word of warning with evaporust, it helped me find a crack in a block I didn’t know about. I wonder how many years it would have been before I had an issue if I never cleaned the rust out of the painted over crack. 


I prefer not to drive cars with cracked blocks……..and yes especially on pre 20 stuff there are often cracks and castings flaws that evapo rust will find. Finding cracks doesn’t bother me, driving a car with a crack would.

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I used EvapoRust at Ed's recommendation a few years ago on the rusty water jackets of my '54 Ford and it seemed to work well. I haven't noticed much evidence of rust in the coolant since then, but you have to keep EvapoRust in there for a while and run the car regularly. I'll probably flush the rad and block and try the treatment again in a few years to keep on top of things.

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1 hour ago, edinmass said:


I prefer not to drive cars with cracked blocks……..and yes especially on pre 20 stuff there are often cracks and castings flaws that evapo rust will find. Finding cracks doesn’t bother me, driving a car with a crack would.

Finding the crack bothered me!  Pulling off my first stitch was a fun learning experience, but a pristine block that didn’t need it would have been more fun. That said, as soon as the repair was done I put more evaporust in while the stitching stuff was still out and handy. 

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1 hour ago, JamesR said:

but you have to keep EvapoRust in there for a while and run the car regularly

I can't keep Evaporust in a system year round, as the garage is not heated and freezing is an issue! Freezing point is 32°F, hmm, same as water. Why do you think water jackets in blocks are cracked? 

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17 hours ago, Frank DuVal said:

I can't keep Evaporust in a system year round, as the garage is not heated and freezing is an issue! Freezing point is 32°F, hmm, same as water. Why do you think water jackets in blocks are cracked? 

 

Frank, when I say leave it in the cooling system a while, I mean longer than a week or two. Ed suggested all season long. My location gets colder than the place you list as your location, so I always make sure I have antifreeze protection in winter, and that means removing and flushing out EvapoRust before putting in antifreeze. Where I'm at that means getting cars antifreeze protected before November at the latest. So it is kind of a hassle having to change out coolant for an EvapoRust treatment. It's my impression that it helps noticeably with water jacket rust, though. I haven't needed to do the treatment for a few years now. BTW, EvapoRust makes a product specifically for cooling systems in cars...I think it's formulated for shorter use time. I just use regular EvapoRust over longer periods. 

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