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Leif in Calif

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Everything posted by Leif in Calif

  1. Sounds like it's priced about right. A new top for a Karmann Ghia is several thousand dollars. Paint and rust repair could easily be around 6K. A nice one of these is worth about 20K, so this seem a fair deal, but not a great one.
  2. Thanks for that...it doesn't consistently miss at idle so I can't short out cylinders individually. This vehicle only sees about 20 miles a year ( just parades) and was rebuilt about 10 years ago so I'd like to think I can rule out mechanical issues, which leaves us with fuel and spark. Is there a way to test fuel delivery? It has the vacuum type "pump" on the firewall. Leif
  3. Hello! I am responsible for a 1925 Chevy truck which belongs to the City of Petaluma CA (see general discussion forum "Restoration vs. Preservation" for a picture). Anyway...its developed what I would call a "High Speed Miss' (high speed is relative in this case). It idles OK and if you drive a low RPMs is seems OK but at higher RPMs there is a definite miss. Am I correct in assuming it's probably an ignition issue? I did take a quick look at the points and they seem to be opening correctly and aren't pitted. What should be the next step in tracking down the cause?
  4. Right O Christech....we'd never start it with out lots of oil! We have pads we put in a zip lock baggy and soak before installing. The truck is only used for parades and displays so it only goes a few miles at a time and I always re-oil if it stops for more than a few minutes . Better to much than too little (sorry about the mess). Can't imagine what a nightmare it must have been when it was new and most roads were dirt!
  5. Thanks to all...the decision is not mine to make but your thoughts will be forwarded to those ultimately responsible (the Museum board). This vehicle has over head valves but no oil supply or return to that part of the engine. You oil it before each use and the excess just runs down the engine block. It leaves a trail where ever it goes but it also coats the undercarriage so there's no noticeable rust in that area. It's currently stored in a hanger at the airport which seems very good.
  6. I am one of the custodians of a 1925 Chevy truck which belongs to the City of Petaluma California. It runs well and I drive it in parades and use it to spark interest in city history. It was originally green but painted red I think in the 40's. It's got quite a bit of surface rust and the bottom of the shell of the radiator is completely gone. One of the other people involved with it thinks we should treat the rust and repaint the fenders and replace the radiator shell with a new one, trying to achieve a "rustic" finish. I'm not totally against that but I do think about the truck as a historical artifact (It's in the museum's care) and while I certainly don't want it to degrade further, I wonder about what I would call cosmetic repair. What do you all think? Is there a way to stabilize a rust? Thanks in advance!
  7. I realize it's unusual but this car is 12v negative ground so I'm confident that's the radio's set up as well. It is as you describe as far as location.
  8. just to be clear: FREE! (but you'll have to cover any shipping)
  9. I think I can claim "Old Porsche Hand" status...my farther picked me up from High School in a 550 Spyder for sale fror $3500 and I've owned and rebuilt 5 or 6 over the years. Just the same I can't get my head around the $100K 356 "driver". They really aren't Bugattis!
  10. I removed this radio from my 1951 Simca. It seems to be a model Sears sold in the 40's and early 50's...it has a small head unit with mechanical cables that connect to a big speaker cabinet which actually houses the radio. I'd tried to damage it as little as possible getting it out but the car sat outside for a long time so condition is pretty rough, but I think a radio person could easily bring it back. I don't know which connection is which so I haven't attempted to see if it plays, but my car is 12 volts. The last picture is one in much better condition than mine, just for reference. Free to a good home but probably expensive to ship since it's heavy and fragile! I'm located in Petaluma CA 94952
  11. Thanks very much... this forum IS the place to learn. Car sold yesterday.
  12. See my ad under Cars for Sale.... http://www.prewarcar.com/magazine/previous-features/the-art-of-mental-engineering--003880.html
  13. 1925 Chrysler 2 door sedan. Believed to be a model 70.The wood is rotten and the top is gone. No Engine or transmission. Only a small amount of rust... good frame, sound 20 inch wooden wheels with recent tires, steering and hydraulic brakes complete at the wheels and look good. 4 pretty good fenders and cowl, hood and radiator. Instruments. Some seat springs. bumpers. I've had this since 2005 and haven't made any progress so it needs to go! Also: 1950 Straight 8 ( C-49) engine. Good condition (running when removed a few years ago and stored inside and turned over occasionally) Cell: 209-321-8567 Leif Located in Petaluma CA 94952http://www.prewarcar.com/magazine/previous-features/the-art-of-mental-engineering--003880.html
  14. I have an early Chrysler I'm thinking of making into a speedster. I'd like something a little more robust than the original 20" wooden wheels. It seems like I'll need completely new hubs to convert to anything else...does anyone have a better (easier or cheaper) idea? Maybe a disc to replace the wood? Thanks! Here's the car: http://www.prewarcar.com/magazine/previous-features/the-art-of-mental-engineering--003880.html
  15. Thanks! I looked at the frame in the back and even tried scraping the old paint but haven't found anything. Could you possibly post a picture? Maybe I'm not looking in the correct area.
  16. I have an early car, believed to be a model 70 sedan (20 inch wooden wheels) that is missing the serial number. There is an indentation on the left of the dash where I believe it would have been, Is it found anywhere else? Thanks!
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