Thoughts and ideas on a garage lift

[James Matthews]

I am building a garage and I would like to install a garage lift. In researching a lift there seems to be a lot of choices. At the moment, I am thinking about installing a Backyard Buddy Classic or an Advantage lift. One thing that I am having a hard time understanding about the BYB and Advantage lifts is the company recommends leaving the lifts free standing because of their construction as opposed to anchoring the lift but it is an option. In my research, I have found nothing but positive comments on both lifts. I plan to use the lift to help restore a 1981 corvette.

 

I would appreciate hearing everyone's thoughts, ideas, suggestions and if anyone has any experience with BYB or Advantage lifts.

 

Thank  you.

 

 

[EmTee]

I have a Direct Lift 4-post lift.  I went with it because it is ALI certified and has (relatively) local parts and service support.  The one thing I did and HIGHLY recommend is spending the extra $ to buy the sliding hydraulic jack.  Mine came with the usual steel jack tray (supply your own jack), but the accessory axle jack is much more convenient, capable and safer.  I have no complaints.  Make sure that you have at least 10 feet of floor to ceiling height.  I have 10 feet and though it's OK, 12 would be better...

[Bloo]

No hoist works for every job. The different types have advantages and disadvantages, big advantages and disadvantages.

 

The most useful type of hoist BY FAR is an offset 2-post floor mounted hoist. There is a reason you will see several of them in a typical service shop for every one four post hoist. The reason to get an offset 2-post hoist rather than a symmetrical one is that it is impossible to open a door once the blocks are set. It is a problem even on offset hoists, but not as big of a problem. The typical thing to do with either type is to get out with the car in neutral and roll it into position to set the blocks.

 

We have had threads like this before, and 2-post doesn't get any love around this forum. It is because you have to get down on your knees about 4 times, maybe more if you are inexperienced, just to set the blocks on one car. It is a valid point. I used to do it all day long, and it just kills my knees now. I feel their pain... literally. I'd still get a 2-post hoist.

 

There are some jobs you can't do on a 2-post hoist. That is why many shops have one four poster in addition to all the 2-posters. The difference is the car sits on it's wheels. for instance, it is necessary for exhaust work, alignment, and suspension work. The trouble is for most jobs the hoist will be EXTREMELY in your way. You will find that your hand is too big and that your arm is too short and does not have enough joints in it to reach whatever it is you are trying to reach. How old the car is has an effect, as really old cars have most of the mechanical stuff right down the center, and the engines tend to be inline. That makes it less bad. With the Corvette, I think you will hate it. On anything much newer than the Corvette, or anything front wheel drive, you will still be working on the floor with jack stands about 3/4 of the time.

 

The "bring your own jack" accessory @EmTee mentioned I am not sure I have ever seen. A common setup on 4 post hoists is a pneumatic jack setup you can roll back and forth. You DEFINITELY want this if you get a 4-post. In fact you want two of them, which is the most common setup. With 2 you can lift both ends of the car at the same time. These have movable blocks that let you widen it out and lift from points blocked by the part of the hoist you drive on. These are optional when you are shopping, but are not optional in real life. If you don't have a compressor, or yours is tiny, or has no tank, plan on getting a better one.

 

 

 

[EmTee]

The deciding factor for me on the 4-post lift was I use it to store my GP during the winter months.

 

 

There are compromises as Bloo noted, however, I haven't run into anything yet that I couldn't do because I don't have a 2-post lift.  The optional axle jack helps offset some of the inherent limitations, at least for me.

[James Matthews]

Hi EmTee and Bloo, thank you both for your advice and comments. I appreciate it. You both brought up some good points that I will consider.  EmTee, thank you for posting a picture of your lift and garage. I really like your GTO, very nice. Bloo, I figured that I will probably be getting a set of Jack Stands as well. Also, the more I read, it seems everyone suggest going bigger with a compressor.  Thank you for the good advice. 

[Avanti Bill]

I have a Bendpak which seems to be well built and is certified.  I got a 9000 lbs lift as the ratings are with the wheels on the cross arms so a short heavy vehicle could exceed the rating of a 7000 lift.  I do believe the two post lifts are the best for working on the car and the Rotary brand is one of the best but expensive compared to others.  

[James Peck]

The Automotive program in which I studied had both 2 and 4 post lifts. I suppose I should be better prepared to discuss the pros and cons of each. I get the impression that the two post lifts would be easier to move, if necessary.

[Bloo]

2 posts lifts are bolted to the floor. Some 4 post lifts are too, but 4 post lifts that do not have to be attached to the floor exist. Some can even be rolled around.

[Avanti Bill]

2 post lifts have to be bolted to the floor and the floor really needs to be reinforced where they bolt down.  The four post mostly sit on the floor and are very stable even without bolting down and no reinforcement is needed.  I would have prefered a two post but the floor was already poured and I didn't want to break it up and put the pads in for the two post.  The four post mostly come with rollers which you can lower the lift down on and that will lift the feet off the floor to allow some easy movement though I have never tried doing that.  For most hobbyist doing light mechanical work the 4 post work fine and are cheaper than a good two post.

[alsancle]

There are lots of threads on this subject.

 

If I only had one lift, it would be a 4 post.

[James Peck]

So, if you were designing a garage floor from scratch you might want to include pads for two post lifts in case you wanted to go that route in the future.

[Andy J]

James Peck,that is what I did when building my shop. It has a 4'X4'X6" extra concrete footing under each post. I have an Atlas 2 post lift rated at 9000 lbs. It isn't a commercial grade lift,but it is just fine for what I'm doing. I paid $1800 for it,plus shipping.One year later the price doubled.I installed it myself.

 

It is true that you have to get on the floor to get the lift arms adjusted to the car.I'm 71 with no physical problems,so it isn't a big deal for me to get everything situated.I have marks on the floor and on the lift arms to tell me exactly where I need to put everything before I lift. I have marks for each car I have that helps me get everything lined up quicker.Of course,I check everything before I lift.This has been the greatest thing ever when working on brakes.I hardly ever use a creeper anymore.

[Century Eight]

When I poured my floor, I wasn't sure what lift I would get and still haven’t, but in the general vicinity of where the lift is to go,  I dug deeper holes for a two post lift and also holes for a four post lift.  Then,, when the concrete was poured, all the holes were filled in deeper, with additional inches of concrete ready for either scenario.  Just measure from the wall, the point where you deepened the floor so you don't forget.  

 

Also spend the extra money for another inch or so of concrete and put in key ways or expansion joints so it never cracks.  You’ll love your floor.  It would also be better for a roll around lift.  

[TAKerry]

5 hours ago, Century Eight said:

When I poured my floor, I wasn't sure what lift I would get and still haven’t, but in the general vicinity of where the lift is to go,  I dug deeper holes for a two post lift and also holes for a four post lift.  Then,, when the concrete was poured, all the holes were filled in deeper, with additional inches of concrete ready for either scenario.  Just measure from the wall, the point where you deepened the floor so you don't forget.  

 

Also spend the extra money for another inch or so of concrete and put in key ways or expansion joints so it never cracks.  You’ll love your floor.  It would also be better for a roll around lift.  

I have been working construction for 40+ years. Have readied, placed and rubbed more than my share of concrete. 2 things I can guarantee:

1. Wet concrete will get hard

2. It will crack

[Century Eight]

Agree 100%, it’s guaranteed to crack but you can control the crack, no? The last time we poured at my place, the guy said about 9 x 13 is about as big as you can pour without a crack.  What he said worked.  Earlier pours, that guy didn’t put enough joints in, and it cracked all over the place.  Looks terrible.  I have a farm and we pour occasionally.  

 

Of course all the other stuff matters, temp, thickness, mix etc.   In my limited experience,  enough joints make all the difference..  I love my floor, and hate my drive (not enough joints).

[Bills Auto Works]

The choice between a 2 post lift & a drive on 4 post lift is a personal one, but both have advantages & disadvantages.

 

  I have a BendPak 10,000lb 2 post lift in my shop & have had it for about 15 years. The only actual requirement for the cement is a minimum of 4 inches thick. I love this lift & the only vehicle that gives me a bit of problem is my Chevy 3500 1 ton 4 door dually, because of the overall length & the fact that the rear frame rails start upward over the rear axle a little too soon for the rear arms of the lift. I purchased a set of "Lift Jack Stands" & when I get the truck to the desired height, I put them under the rear axle tubes for added safety.

 

  The only reason I don't also have a 4 post lift is when I installed one in a buddies residential garage some 10 years ago, he said he would probably only have it for 2 or 3 years & then was going to give it to me when he moved into an apartment! LOL His is a Direct Lift & except for a hydraulic hose blowing out one time a couple of years ago while the car was in the air, he has not had any issues with it. The problem with the hose blowing out did nothing other than sitting down on the next safety latch, but he could not get the car down until he replaced the hose & OH What a Mess!

 

God bless

Bill

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/nationwide-single-car-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

Edited August 23 by Bills Auto Works (see edit history)

[TAKerry]

Bill your 4 post situation sounds similar to what I ran across. My neighbor tragically passed away. He was a car guy, and did restoration in his shop next to his house. He had a really nice 2 post lift. I was friends with his wife and eventually asked if she would sell the lift to me. She said I was too late as she had already made a deal with someone else, and was just waiting for the guy to pick it up. I watched for literally a year and it was still there. She put her house for sale, I was helping her clean the shop and again asked about the lift. Same story. Someone else bought it and was supposed to come and get it. She sold the house about 5 years ago and the lift is still there!

[Turbinator]

Everyone has a good reason for the 2 or 4 post. Id have to agree the 2 post sure makes it easy to work on the wheels and other as well. I bought a Challenger 9000 lb 4 poster. I bought the 4 poster mostly for my PERCEIVED better safety. Id surmise the two poster when loaded right is safe. My heart and gut over rides my brain a nd says get a 4 poster. I got 4500 lb concrete about 8” thick. I did anchor my 4 poster.

I got the sliding jack, but I wish Id purchased two.

Oh, the 4 poster makes you do goofy positioning of the car when you replace the ball joints. If I had to do it over id still get the 4 poster.

[Model56s]

I bought an Atlas 8,000 lb 4-post lift in May of 2021. The only two complaints I have are that 1) the pulley shafts are not drilled for a zirk and grease channels and must be removed for greasing and 2) the Atlas plastic guide blocks have too much play in them for my comfort.  Most lifts have 2 plastic “guide blocks” that attach to each end of the crossmember (gantry), 8 total, and serve to guide them snugly during travel within the respective upright channel. I ordered a replacement set from Atlas under their tech support advisement (over $250 with shipping) because I noticed this year that I could get the lift to sway as much as an inch with a car on it. When I removed the old guide blocks, their measurements were the same as the new ones, indicating no wear. The lift has the same give with the new ones.

 

The Atlas hydraulic pump, motor, hose and ram have been reliable and are almost leak-free - just an occasional drop of hydraulic oil at the junction of the supply hose fitting and the ram cylinder. The steel uprights, runways and crossmembers are powder coated and appear to be of sufficient quality steel with good welds. I didn’t anchor the lift since it was shipped with casters for each corner and I can move it between bays with very little trouble.

 

Today’s price for the same lift is about $3800 vs $2600 I paid in May ‘21. Overall - it’s an OK lift. With no guide block play and drilled pulley shafts, it would be a great lift.

[Barney Eaton]

If you only have one......the 4 post is probably the best choice.   (1) it does not need to be bolted down so if you want to move it to a different bay it can be done easier than a 2 post. 

(2) I have an older 2 post and i must drive in further than needed so the front arms will swing past the front tires,  then back up after the arms are in place for proper weight distribution, 

 this has been addressed on most newer 2 post. 

(3) the second part of putting a car on a 2 post is you must locate and move the arms to the proper lift points.... you just drive on the 4 post and you are done. 

(4) the post on a 2 post can interfere with opening the doors on your vehicle.... sometime you must squeeze into the car because the car door will hit the post. 

One additional consideration is the footprint of the lift.. if you have a normal 2 car garage,  either lift may greatly reduce the space in the other bay. 

I purchased my lift before starting construction and chose to increase the size of the bays because of the lift footprint. 

[EmTee]

(5) A 4-post lift makes the most sense when storing two cars in one bay is an objective.

 

(6) I found that purchasing the accessory sliding axle jack mitigates most of the disadvantages of the 4-post vs. 2-post with regard to access.  I can conveniently (and safely) raise one axle at a time with the car on the lift, which makes tire changes, brake jobs and suspension work much easier.  I have really had no insurmountable undercar access issues with my 4-post Direct Lift.

[BadGoat]

  I had the same questions when I built my shop as to if I went with a four post or two post so I did both. The four post's are difficult at best for me being 6',2" as I have a tendency to hit my head on rails and the sliding jack working under them.  So my 9000-four post is generally only used for storing two cars in one spot, (sometimes three, one full size on top and two MG Midgets down below) the 10,000-two post is the one that gets a lot of use as my neighbor's and friends found out that I put them in and it amazed me how they thought it was a "free" garage. kind of like a neighborhood garden... 

 

  The two post is also used for storing one on top and one down below in the winter time when I am working on another project in the main area.  When I built the shop the code enforcement said that I could not build the 1400 sqf shop of my dreams, and that all I could build was 900 sqf. so it can be a little tight at times however it does work. I poured the concrete at 6" in only the area that I knew I was going to install the two post even though the code states 4" as sufficient.   Both my lifts cost me about what one new four post would as I found a local Bend Pak distributor/inspector that sold me both of them when he took them on trade for the new replacements.  They were only 4 years old when I bought them and he had serviced them every year with the state inspections. It is highly recommended that you go with the largest weight capacity that you can afford as it is true they hold up better.  If you purchase a four post do not forget the drip pans and the sliding jack as a "package" because they make a difference.  when I store two on my two post I have a tarp that I put under the upper car with magnets that catches all the leaks, as every one knows Pontiacs leaks like clock work. 

 

 so with all that if you do have room for both it can make your life much easier and no more floor creepers a laying on your back. 

 

 

[topblissgt]

I love my Bendpak. Top quality throughout, not a problem with it in 4 years. 4 post narrow doe consumer garages 9000 lb unit.