Optima battery

[37_Roadmaster_C]

@Skidplate,  Do you notice any imbalance in the charge of the two batteries?  The system you have drawn is very simple and would give both 6 and 12 volts to the car and accessories, but these series divided systems often suffer from battery imbalance causing premature failure of the lower 6 volt battery due to overcharge and premature failure of the upper battery due to undercharge. There is no easy way to avoid this, but it can be minimized by switching the two batteries every once in a while (4 months?) to balance them out. Another way to help the situation is to run both batteries down a bit by leaving a 12 volt accessory on until the 12 volt power drops to 10.5 or so then charge each battery separately with a good 6 volt charger until they are fully charged. This should be done every 4 months or so depending on how often the car is driven. You do not need to disconnect anything to charge the batteries, just connect the charger neg to neg and pos to pos on one battery at a time. This will help battery life a LOT!

  The reason for this problem is that the lower 6 volt battery is discharged with ALL loads while the upper battery is only discharged with 12 volt loads while both batteries are charged in reference to the 12 volt series string.  It may not seem like a big deal, but with Optima 6 volt batteries a $225+ each, every extra year adds up 😀.

[MCHinson]

On 12/11/2023 at 8:57 PM, Skidplate said:

 Now I've said it, and let the shouting begin. Cheers

That is a very complicated solution to a problem that does not exist. It is much easier to simply repair what is wrong with the system than to try to redesign the system. A 6 volt battery will start a properly maintained 6 volt car without any problems.  

 

As long as you have all of the original components in good repair and all of the wiring connections clean and tight, any good single 6 volt battery will work fine in a 6 volt system as the original engineers designed it. I personally use two Optima batteries in parallel just because I like to be able to have plenty of battery capacity to be able to run the original tube type radio for hours at car shows, which is not a normal use that was anticipated by the original engineers.  

Edited December 13, 2023 by MCHinson
typo (see edit history)

[Skidplate]

I believe my configuration will charge (and drain) both batteries equally as long as they have matching characteristics I.e., both are the same 6v Optima battery. The charging voltage from the alternator has to travel through both to get to ground. That balances the charge no matter which supply  (6v or 12v) you use the most or least.

My big complaint with 6v is a weak starter compared to modern high torque starters, and probably even more so is the dim lighting. Bright lights might play the biggest part in keeping our vintage iron On The Road without getting run over or running over something else.  And to me, that's worth everything.

Oh, and sorry about the head ache... schematics tend to do that to people.

Edited December 12, 2023 by Skidplate (see edit history)

[drovak]

50 minutes ago, Skidplate said:

I believe my configuration will charge (and drain) both batteries equally as long as they have matching characteristics

If you have different loads on the 6V tap and 12V tap, you will not be draining the loads equally. You will have all of the current of the 12V load going through both batteries, but the 6V load will only require current through the single battery providing the voltage for the 6V loads. 

 

Folks with lithium ion batteries deal with this all the time. It requires a fancy setup to ensure the cells are properly balanced. But different battery chemistries may be more or less susceptible to imbalance. 

[Skidplate]

In theory I would say you are probably correct. And if we were tuning precision instruments then by all mean this might not be the way to go. But these AREN'T precision instruments and all some of us are seeking is the ability to have a reliable 12v source to run our modern accessories while retaining our original 6v components with reasonable accuracy. I installed 2 DC gauges to monitor my 2 different voltages and so far I have seen both voltages stay well within tolerable limits. If in the future I come to realize that this WASN'T a viable solution then I will be the first to acknowledge the error of my ways. Until then however I'm delighted with how well it all turned out. Certainly not for everyone... Fine for me.

 

 

 

[edinmass]

In over forty years of driving pre war six volt cars I have been able to get every one to start fine, hot or cold. Hasn’t always been easy, and a few made me talk to myself. But in the end, six volts is a good system. I’m watching a local V-12 Lincoln being converted to 12 volts this week. Lots of problems, stuff melting down…….literally. And……the “professional conversion kit” sold on line…….well, there are more wires in the car than what shows in their harness. Won’t shift into over drive, and the ignition coil looks like Chernobyl………big meltdown. 

[maok]

10 hours ago, MCHinson said:

That is a very complicated solution to a problem that does not exist. It is much easier to simply repair what is wrong with the system than to try to redesign the system. A 6 volt battery will start a properly maintained 6 volt car without any problems.  

 

As long as you have all of the original components in good repair and all of the wiring connections clean and tight, any good single 6 volt battery will work fine in a 6 volt system as the original engineers designed it. I personally use two Optima batteries in series just because I like to be able to have plenty of battery capacity to be able to run the original tube type radio for hours at car shows, which is not a normal use that was anticipated by the original engineers.  

 

I think you mean parallel, not series.

 

Most 6 volt cars can be converted to 12 volts fairly easily, competent auto electrician or knowledgeable person can do it.

 

Better to do a complete conversion to 12volts than what is proposed above. Yes, some items may need more attention, ie. fuel gauge, there are simple solutions for them.

[32buick67]

Sorry in advance for a little rant, but I implore everyone to fix their 6v problems if they can, which often stem from the usual culprits such as worn/misaligned brushes, poor continuity, high resistance connections, low batt water level, small wire gauges, inadequate contact cleaning, etc. to get their cars to at least run per original design and mfg specs - as we all know, millions of 6v cars ran well, not 8v, not 12v, not anything but original 6v.

My Fleet Farm battery is almost 6 years old, and I don't charge it or maintain it with anything except the original Buick generator, and now that its winter, I doubt it will get a good charge until April, which has been the case for 6 years...it can be done, not bragging, I decided to put a lot of time to get the car back to factory so I can trust it, and because I am lazy and I don't want to spend time re-engineering what Buick and Delco already did.  I like to tinker, but I would rather play with the Marvel carb than play with the generator...

 

If folks aren't willing, or don't have the ability, or access to a shop to help with reestablishing the 6v performance, than I am sorry and I hope that someday you might be able to enjoy a well-running 6v originally designed system, and I hope that until then you are able to keep your cars rolling using other safe means.  If its of any future encouragement, 6v systems perform really well, even on these 8s, my crank spins fast on a cold engine with the starter I rebuilt.  I clocked the starting rpm, but I forgot the # at the moment.  And spark, wow, bright blue...

 

If folks want to run modern 12v accessories, I encourage trying a boost converter, very low cost vs another full-capacity battery, capable of being hidden, and highly reliable if loaded to 80% of design rating (eg. only use 4amp load on a device rated 5amps max).

 

I use this exact product on my solar hobby and telemetry projects, 5amp, 10amp - it works well for my conversion projects, and I would use it in my car all day long if my 6v car didn't already thankfully work so well after I have gone through every electrical component per original mfg design specs.  I recommend using an automotive fuse holder and add a fuse to the input and output.  Using a small glass fuse holder is ok, but most gas stations carry the automotive fuses vs the glass fuses, just in case someone doesn't have spares.

 

Most USB phone chargers will work, but they aren't efficient when converting 6.xV to 5V and will probably charge a phone, but very slow...modern chargers are designed to convert 12.xV to 5V efficiently and charge the phones rapidly at approx 2amp rate.  If you are planning to charge a phone, I recommend buying a solar cell phone charger, they are cheap, and they also free up the car's 6v budget.

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L90B3RI/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?pd_rd_i=B01L90B3RI&pd_rd_w=31YJP&content-id=amzn1.sym.f734d1a2-0bf9-4a26-ad34-2e1b969a5a75&pf_rd_p=f734d1a2-0bf9-4a26-ad34-2e1b969a5a75&pf_rd_r=BRKFXFW2EQS22C0V2C6C&pd_rd_wg=aHQpN&pd_rd_r=80ea3a4c-1d00-43df-970e-55571086cb4c&s=electronics&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw&th=1

 

 

[37_Roadmaster_C]

@Skidplate, Not trying to trash your solution to a problem, BUT the physics of the circuit cannot be changed. The lower 6 volt battery WILL experience more load discharge AND the lesser discharged upper battery WILL limit the charging of the lower battery along with overcharging the upper battery.  This may not be a problem for you as it is VERY dependent on how the system is used.

Just my $.02 solution would be to use the 2 batteries in parallel for more reserve power and add a 6 to 12 volt converter for the 12 volt accessories. If you have a 12 volt starter, and really want to keep it, then a converter will not work and you would be forced to either convert the entire system to 12 volt or do as you have done. If you are happy with how it works then you are good to go.

[32buick67]

Its probably also worth reminding that with raw bench batteries connected in parallel, one will act as a load, and one will act as a source (due to slight differences in internal resistance values), until they flip, then the other will be a load, and the other will be a source, until they drain each other to 10.5-11.0v, and then the lead-acid cells are dead and the batteries won't charge or they will burn up chargers/generators trying to charge them, or they won't have the CCA to start a car or boat.

 

Batteries in parallel can cause many issues if not properly monitored and topped-off with minders, or if they are not recharged by somewhat regular driving/generating.

As an example, PV arrays and IT data centers spend a lot of money to ensure all of the batteries which are connected in parallel only receive, and to ensure any don't start to act as sources to low resistance peer batteries which will look like loads.

The good news is that for an antique car solution, the two batteries likely only need a battery tender to keep forcing simultaneous charge flow to both of the batteries so one doesn't try to peer-discharge into the lower resistance 'load'.

[Brian_Heil]

A favorite post on hand cranking to get the 12V folks well, cranked up.

[32buick67]

40 minutes ago, Brian_Heil said:

A favorite post on hand cranking to get the 12V folks well, cranked up.

Brian, thanks for reposting, I forgot about that old hand-crank post....

I have safely hand cranked my Buick 8 many times since then, hot and cold, lots of fun for spectators, nice to have a carb and ignition properly setup for those kinds of hand starts...

[MCHinson]

14 hours ago, maok said:

 

I think you mean parallel, not series.

 

Most 6 volt cars can be converted to 12 volts fairly easily, competent auto electrician or knowledgeable person can do it.

 

Better to do a complete conversion to 12volts than what is proposed above. Yes, some items may need more attention, ie. fuel gauge, there are simple solutions for them.

You are correct. I was focusing too much on the proposed solution and simply typed that in error. I will edit the typo. Thanks.

[JRA]

On 4/20/2023 at 8:39 AM, edinmass said:

I resisted them for years, and now they are in all our cars. In the old days, it they would  be good for 10 years, now that they’re made in Mexico they’re good for about six.  There’s definitely a learning curve with them and you need to know how to charge them if they get substantially discharged. I installed two of them in every car. I like the extra amperage. Of course, the cost is very substantial.

 

On 12/10/2023 at 12:33 PM, MCHinson said:

This doesn't answer the original question about how it looks in the engine bay, since the battery is mounted under the seat on a 1937 Buick, but on my 1937 Roadmaster I have two Optimas wired in parallel. I have nice heavy duty cables on them. They provide more power than needed but I use two of them because I like to use the original tube type radio (which draws quite a bit of current) when parked at shows. I have 40's tunes downloaded onto an ipod and use a small "Micromitter" AM transmitter to send tunes to the radio. I don't play the music obnoxiously loud but people really like to hear period music while admiring the car. I can leave the car parked with the radio on for several hours at a show and the car still starts just fine. When I get home, I use a charger to top off the batteries so the car is ready for the next show.  

Same approach for me two Optima 6v batteries in parallel, doubling the cranking amperage, in all cars. Slow charging at home sometimes, generally lasting 6-8 years. Investment in a good charger is important. This is the approach I have used in my cars for more than 10 years. I have to admit the last ones have lasted less time than the initial batteries I bought.
When they completely die, without much notice, it is definitive, time to buy new ones.

I use mp3 players in my cars, so I have installed a small 6v to 12v transformer to allow me this pleasure.

For large heavy engines, I believe a 12v conversion is helpful.

 

 

Edited January 15 by JRA (see edit history)

[CarNucopia]

I only have two 6V cars and keep one Optima in each. Usually, I'll take the battery from the car I'm not using with me in the other car as a "jumper box" of sorts. 

[Morgan Wright]

I don't know why anybody would convert a 6V car to 12V. Maybe it's better to double everything. My car has a 3 speed transmission, maybe I'm going to make it 6 speeds. It has 4 wheels, I think I'll convert it to 8 wheels. It has an engine, maybe I'll give it two engines. Just double everything.

[drhach]

15 hours ago, Morgan Wright said:

I don't know why anybody would convert a 6V car to 12V. Maybe it's better to double everything. My car has a 3 speed transmission, maybe I'm going to make it 6 speeds. It has 4 wheels, I think I'll convert it to 8 wheels. It has an engine, maybe I'll give it two engines. Just double everything.

You should clone yourself too, so you have someone to help you drive; assuming you don't already have a wife for that. 

[Skidplate]

Oh I don't know Morgan. Maybe it has to do with the nature of cars themselves. Every year, every modern automobile out there gets something converted from one thing to something else. Every race track in the world is running cars that have been converted and improved and tweaked and modified to be something better than they were before. And more often than not, every one of those cutting edge improvements ends up on our standard factory off-the-lot cars a few years later.
The only vintage car that is able to remain exactly as built is most likely a car that either never goes anywhere or only limps down the street to the car show twice a year or around the little town now and then that its been located in for the last forever. The cars that DO actually get driven and DO actually go places are (whether you like it or not) cars that have been modified in some way or other to make them even remotely drivable with parts that can actually be had if and when something fails. Whether it's a change of voltage or a better carburetor or even yes a better transmission with OMG more than just 3 gears.
Even modern oils are so far superior to the original, only a fool would not upgrade when at all possible. So yes, if I can gracefully upgrade my vintage automobile from 6v to 12v for much better and safer lighting and much more reliable and cleaner fuel burning and more capacity for optional equipment that might help me NOT end up stranded on the side of the road somewhere without permanently destroying the originality of the car... I might (and probably will) do just that. I'll also be that guy who can and does often drive my vintage cars as far and as wide as humanly possible for as long as I'm able to do it. Call me a rebel... please.

[Larry Schramm]

Some of my cars are now 12 volt because we tour a lot with the cars and it is helpful to have 12v to run the GPS for maps and mileage & keep a phone charged. 

 

Now the cars that I can say have been changed to 12 volts only have an ignition coil and lights.  Nothing else except the plug for modern conveniences.  I like the led lights including the stop lights when on tour and get caught in the dark.

 

No radio, no IP cluster, blower motor, etc...... nothing else. If any of my cars had all that, then I would keep it at 6 volts.

[alsancle]

4 hours ago, Skidplate said:

Oh I don't know Morgan. Maybe it has to do with the nature of cars themselves. Every year, every modern automobile out there gets something converted from one thing to something else. Every race track in the world is running cars that have been converted and improved and tweaked and modified to be something better than they were before. And more often than not, every one of those cutting edge improvements ends up on our standard factory off-the-lot cars a few years later.
The only vintage car that is able to remain exactly as built is most likely a car that either never goes anywhere or only limps down the street to the car show twice a year or around the little town now and then that its been located in for the last forever. The cars that DO actually get driven and DO actually go places are (whether you like it or not) cars that have been modified in some way or other to make them even remotely drivable with parts that can actually be had if and when something fails. Whether it's a change of voltage or a better carburetor or even yes a better transmission with OMG more than just 3 gears.
Even modern oils are so far superior to the original, only a fool would not upgrade when at all possible. So yes, if I can gracefully upgrade my vintage automobile from 6v to 12v for much better and safer lighting and much more reliable and cleaner fuel burning and more capacity for optional equipment that might help me NOT end up stranded on the side of the road somewhere without permanently destroying the originality of the car... I might (and probably will) do just that. I'll also be that guy who can and does often drive my vintage cars as far and as wide as humanly possible for as long as I'm able to do it. Call me a rebel... please.

What is the earliest car you’ve ever owned?

[Grimy]

4 hours ago, Skidplate said:

Oh I don't know Morgan. Maybe it has to do with the nature of cars themselves. Every year, every modern automobile out there gets something converted from one thing to something else. Every race track in the world is running cars that have been converted and improved and tweaked and modified to be something better than they were before. And more often than not, every one of those cutting edge improvements ends up on our standard factory off-the-lot cars a few years later.
The only vintage car that is able to remain exactly as built is most likely a car that either never goes anywhere or only limps down the street to the car show twice a year or around the little town now and then that its been located in for the last forever. The cars that DO actually get driven and DO actually go places are (whether you like it or not) cars that have been modified in some way or other to make them even remotely drivable with parts that can actually be had if and when something fails. Whether it's a change of voltage or a better carburetor or even yes a better transmission with OMG more than just 3 gears.
Even modern oils are so far superior to the original, only a fool would not upgrade when at all possible. So yes, if I can gracefully upgrade my vintage automobile from 6v to 12v for much better and safer lighting and much more reliable and cleaner fuel burning and more capacity for optional equipment that might help me NOT end up stranded on the side of the road somewhere without permanently destroying the originality of the car... I might (and probably will) do just that. I'll also be that guy who can and does often drive my vintage cars as far and as wide as humanly possible for as long as I'm able to do it. Call me a rebel... please.

The last week in September 2023, 33 cars 1912-1932 completed a 6-day, 600-mile tour in SW Utah beginning in St George (~2700 ft elev), on to Cedar City (~5600 ft elev), then climbed the hill to the rim of Bryce Canyon (rim ~6700 ft) via Cedar Breaks Nat'l Monument ranger station (10,000 ft elev), down into the canyon and back up and down 16-18% grades (most of us with 2-wheel brakes), then through Zion NP and back to St George.  One Chrysler did not finish due to a fan blade thru radiator but the rest did, including a 1928 Chev 4-cyl coupe.  I don't know of a single one that had been converted to 12V.

 

My 1918 Pierce is pictured  It runs on the original pressurized fuel system, no electric pump, a single Optima battery.  I chased this car for 18 years before being able to buy it (finally!) 8 yrs and 9,000 miles ago.  This car would have even more of my own miles on it if I didn't feel the need to keep the rest of my fleet exercised.

 

I carry a sealed 12V alarm battery (7 mAH) that I use to charge cell phones for mapping and for powering my 2007-vintage Garmin when I feel a need to section-cup it to the windshield.

 

Of course I use modern oil (Rotella T-4 15W-40) in all my vintage cars.

[EmTee]

3 minutes ago, Grimy said:

My 1918 Pierce is pictured.

That's a beautiful automobile!  I hope I look half that good when I'm 100 years old... 

[edinmass]

I have at least 75,000 miles on big pre war cars that are bone stock. Never an issue. 

[Grimy]

4 minutes ago, EmTee said:

That's a beautiful automobile!  I hope I look half that good when I'm 100 years old... 

I'm sure you will!  🙂

 

The Pierce is a torque monster, 4.5 x 5.5 bore and stroke for 525 cid out of 6 cylinders, first year of 4 valves per cylinder, dyno-ed by factory at 121 bhp (found in P-A Engineering Cmte minutes, never advertised as other than 48 (taxable) hp.

[MCHinson]

On 1/15/2024 at 1:18 PM, Skidplate said:

The only vintage car that is able to remain exactly as built is most likely a car that either never goes anywhere or only limps down the street to the car show twice a year or around the little town now and then that its been located in for the last forever. The cars that DO actually get driven and DO actually go places are (whether you like it or not) cars that have been modified in some way or other to make them even remotely drivable with parts that can actually be had if and when something fails. Whether it's a change of voltage or a better carburetor or even yes a better transmission with OMG more than just 3 gears.
 

If you were correct, how have I driven my 1937 Buick Century from North Carolina to Ohio and back or from North Carolina to Indiana, and toured many many miles on different tours over the past decade. The car is still 6 volts and still has the original engine and drivetrain and bias ply tires. A properly maintained stock 1937 Buick is good to drive anywhere you want to go. Since mine is a Century, it is even fine for Interstate speeds, although non-interstates do tend to have more interesting scenery. Sometimes I have taken the interstate, and sometimes I have taken secondary roads. 

Edited January 16 by MCHinson
spelling error (see edit history)

[Morgan Wright]

20 hours ago, Larry Schramm said:

only have an ignition coil and lights.  Nothing else except

I was checking out the light bulbs at the Auto Zone. Some of them with the super low numbers, like 2 digit numbers and even 1 digit numbers (!!), I guess those bulbs have never changed in over 100 years. The voltage on the side of the bulb says 8-10 volt, so I think you can use the same bulb for 6V or 12V, I see no reason to change the bulb for 12V. I figure the same bulb can go both ways. I doubt 12V would burn it out.

[Skidplate]

I tried that just recently and found that the original 6v bulbs used in my dash (that were brand new) at 12v didn't last very long. Really not long at all.
 

12v bulbs seem to work fine in a 6v environment (as in, they won't burn out) but I don't think they shine as bright as with 12v... or as bright as do 6v bulbs shine in 6 volts.
 

And I haven't found LED substitutes that span that voltage range either. 
 

But I will say, (and this is not to prove some point for or against 6 or 12 volts)... the slightly more modern headlight bulbs that run on 12v but still fit nicely in the original headlight can, are substantially brighter than the original 6v. 

Edited January 17 by Skidplate (see edit history)

[NailheadBob]

@BuickTom87  Great article on Optima 6 Volt Battery and 6V Rigid clamp tray in the "Torque Tube II" 36-38 Buick Club magazine

 

Here is where to get the battery tray: http://optimatrays.com 

 

Included with the 6-Volt Rigid Clamp Tray:

1 "solid style" bottom

2 bottom clamps

4 stainless steel fasteners for tray assembly

4 stainless steel 3/8" mounting bolts with lock washers and nuts

4 stainless steel #10-24 mounting bolts with lock washers and nuts

1 allen wrench to assemble the tray

5 year warranty

 

 

I am not sure if the tray is the same for your car as this is for a 1938 Buick.

 

You may want to join the 3638buick club also specializes in Buick  straight 8's  (www.3638buickclub.org)

 

Great information in all magazines from this club

 

Bob

 

EDIT: @EmTee  Do you have a Optima battery in your '38 Buick?

 

Edited January 19 by NailheadBob
Add photo (see edit history)

[MCHinson]

1 hour ago, NailheadBob said:

@BuickTom87  Great article on Optima 6 Volt Battery and 6V Rigid clamp tray in the "Torque Tube II" 36-38 Buick Club magazine

 

Here is where to get the battery tray: http://optimatrays.com 

 

Included with the 6-Volt Rigid Clamp Tray:

1 "solid style" bottom

2 bottom clamps

4 stainless steel fasteners for tray assembly

4 stainless steel 3/8" mounting bolts with lock washers and nuts

4 stainless steel #10-24 mounting bolts with lock washers and nuts

1 allen wrench to assemble the tray

5 year warranty

 

 

I am not sure if the tray is the same for your car as this is for a 1938 Buick.

 

You may want to join the 3638buick club also specializes in Buick  straight 8's  (www.3638buickclub.org)

 

Great information in all magazines from this club

 

Bob

 

 

 

  If you can remind me which issue of the Torque Tube II that article appeared in, I can post a link where anybody can download that issue to make it a bit easier for them.  

[NailheadBob]

1 hour ago, MCHinson said:

  If you can remind me which issue of the Torque Tube II that article appeared in, I can post a link where anybody can download that issue to make it a bit easier for them.  

@MCHinson It is November/December 2021 for the Optima battery article.

 

My friend Ron Johnson member #140 lends me his Torque Tube II magazines and I read them and then I add information that I think me or someone else may need to a data base on my home Mac computer so when something is needed I can access it easily, and then return the magazines to Ron.

 

Matt you and your club members do a great job with your magazine and articles, I especially liked the self-shifting articles by Lawrence.

 

I have been following (little late I know as you already sold it to EmTee, I think?) 1938 Model 61 Restoration, again great stuff.

 

Where did you and Brian Depouli purchase "Timiya #81027 red paint" for your emblems, I found some on Amazon but all the markings on the bottle were Chinese?

 

I would recommend anyone with a '36,37, 38, or Straight 8 Buick to join your club, the information in your magazine alone would save them time and money. I could be your spokes person.

 

Bob

[MCHinson]

Bob,

 

Thank you for the kind words. For the Tamiya #81027 Red paint, If I recall correctly, I purchased it from Amazon and I think it is made in China. If I recall correctly, it has both English and Chinese on the label. A google search shows up several other sources. For those who wish to see the issue with the Optima mounting plate article, it can be downloaded at this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-CQUEozwiHp5lZOqb_zFMuB7XZ9dKCFQ/view?usp=sharing

 

For more information on the 36-38 Buick Club (Which is open to all Straight 8 era Buicks, check out https://3638buickclub.org/

 

[EmTee]

11 hours ago, NailheadBob said:

Do you have a Optima battery in your '38 Buick?

No, I'm still running the standard lead-acid one that came in the car when I got it.  So far, no problem.  I'd consider an Optima when the time comes to replace it, however, it will be much more noticeable being under the hood, vs. the '37 location.  I would likely fabricate some sort of box or cover to fit over the battery if I were to go with an Optima.

[Grimy]

I've been using Optimas exclusively for over 20 years, but among my fleet only the 1948 Jeepster has its battery under the hood--the others' batteries are under the floor or under the seat.  For underseat and underfloor locations, the Optima as a sealed battery is ideal in that it never needs to be checked for water, never needs corrosion cleaned from terminals, does not outgas potentially harming seats, prevents seat wear where the seat is moved in and out to check for water and corrosion.  Further, for me the Optima holds a decent charge over the winter without a maintainer, and I can check state of charge or add a maintainer at the starter if necessary.

[BuickTom87]

14 hours ago, NailheadBob said:

@BuickTom87  Great article on Optima 6 Volt Battery and 6V Rigid clamp tray in the "Torque Tube II" 36-38 Buick Club magazine

 

Here is where to get the battery tray: http://optimatrays.com 

 

Included with the 6-Volt Rigid Clamp Tray:

1 "solid style" bottom

2 bottom clamps

4 stainless steel fasteners for tray assembly

4 stainless steel 3/8" mounting bolts with lock washers and nuts

4 stainless steel #10-24 mounting bolts with lock washers and nuts

1 allen wrench to assemble the tray

5 year warranty

 

 

I am not sure if the tray is the same for your car as this is for a 1938 Buick.

 

You may want to join the 3638buick club also specializes in Buick  straight 8's  (www.3638buickclub.org)

 

Great information in all magazines from this club

 

Bob

 

EDIT: @EmTee  Do you have a Optima battery in your '38 Buick?

 

Thank you , I have a 1938 also . I’ll look into this for that car