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Diving into prewar....


NC-car-guy

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1 hour ago, alsancle said:

The Buick guys are probably the most active "marque" specific posters on the forum.   But since you had a Roadmaster you probably already know that.

 

Cool car, resist the urge to take it apart the first day it is in your garage.

Yea. I've been playing with Buicks since 2002. Joined here in 2006 I think?  But always been in mid-fifties cars.  This one will get stashed in the building (fully assembled) as I have another car and some home repairs ahead of it.

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On 4/11/2021 at 6:34 PM, NC-car-guy said:

Just put a deposit on a 39 special 4dr sedan with side mounts..  What have I done....  I am an addict. 😃

Screenshot_2021-04-10-07-03-20~2.png


Good morning, and welcome to the 1930s

image.png.fa20847e6c8501a101307a2271e65da9.png

this era Buick, no matter the series, are dependable drivers, and in addition to BCA functions, are eligible for touring with VMCCA Glidden and Chrome Glidden tour, as well as AACA Founders and Sentimental tours. Looks like a neat addition to the neighborhood - congratulations !

Edited by Marty Roth (see edit history)
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I went from a 1954 Buick Special to a 1937 Century Model 61. I now own a 1937 Roadmaster 80C as well as a 1938 Century Model 61. The 1938 Century is for sale, but I don't have any plans to ever sell either of the 1937's. I would also suggest you consider joining the 36-38 Buick Club.

http://www.3638buickclub.org/

Despite the name, the club is open to all Straight 8 era Buicks. If you send me a private message with your email address, I will be happy to email you a sample .pdf copy of a recent 36-38 Buick Club newsletter. 

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  • 1 month later...

Well....seller is having a hard time getting a title. Something to do with a specific PA tag law that caused it to get listed as scrapped when he dropped insurance and tags 10 years ago .  😯😒  seller has been trying though and offered my deposit back if I want out.

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If it’s a good car......wait for him. Good cars are difficult to find. Don’t pull the trigger without a title.

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PA registration laws are a mess.  I bought a 1957 Continental out of an estate sale in PA.  It was titled as a 1956 because all Mark II's serial numbers begin 56C****.

When I asked the lawyer how to get the title corrected he told me that you had to hire an investigator to go back and research the vehicle history and then hire a lawyer to take it to court and get a judge to rule on making the correction.  I left the title alone and registered it in Virginia as a 1956.  It wasn't worth the $5000 to get it corrected.  

 

Bob Engle

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New York allows you to change things without a lawyer. I had a 1940 Buick, and NY state used the original engine number as the VIN but it didn't have the original engine anymore. I took photos of the frame number and NY changed the VIN no problem.  

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Bob , you may have got duped . I had the the year changed on mine from incorrect 1925 to 1931 when i did transfer . As long as serial / vin  matched they made no fuss . Was prepared with documentation to prove . Notary said send nothing extra unless they ask for it . Worked for me in PA .

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  • 1 month later...
  • 11 months later...
31 minutes ago, NC-car-guy said:

Still no title.  Anyone know of a hunker with a title is could transfer the good parts to?

 

 

Is there a process in your state to obtain a court-ordered title?  Ask the county clerk if not sure.  In Indiana the small claims division will do that for anything under the small claims threshold.

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4 minutes ago, lancemb said:

Is there a process in your state to obtain a court-ordered title?  Ask the county clerk if not sure.  In Indiana the small claims division will do that for anything under the small claims threshold.

I'll check

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If the seller cannot get a title, it should be possible to get a title in NC, but it is a real pain. I would suggest you contact your local DMV License and Theft Inspector's office and ask them about the process. You will likely end up having to get a bonded title, which probably will cost you about an extra $100-$200 to obtain the bond from an insurance agency. It is possible that without an existing title, the Inspector will want to put a state applied number on the car and register it with that rather than the actual frame number. There is also an appeal process if you are unhappy with what the inspector wants to do on the car's NC Title. The appeal process involves a committee with both DMV personnel and non-DMV personnel. If you want to know a bit more about how the appeal board works, send me a PM.   

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8 hours ago, MCHinson said:

If the seller cannot get a title, it should be possible to get a title in NC, but it is a real pain. I would suggest you contact your local DMV License and Theft Inspector's office and ask them about the process. You will likely end up having to get a bonded title, which probably will cost you about an extra $100-$200 to obtain the bond from an insurance agency. It is possible that without an existing title, the Inspector will want to put a state applied number on the car and register it with that rather than the actual frame number. There is also an appeal process if you are unhappy with what the inspector wants to do on the car's NC Title. The appeal process involves a committee with both DMV personnel and non-DMV personnel. If you want to know a bit more about how the appeal board works, send me a PM.   

Thanks!  I've been through the bonding process.  Just worried since this VIN shows as scrapped in the PA system.  I've registered a vehicle with a state given # as well when a trucker I bought had the same VIN as a boat trailer in the NC system!

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I would call the DMV Inspector and have them confirm that the frame and engine number do not show as stolen. I don't think NC cares what PA's DMV shows as long as it does not show as stolen, but I would go straight to the horse's mouth to be sure. Ask DMV before you spend any money and you will know. In any case, I would think that the trouble that you have to go through to register it here should be worth a bit of a price reduction on the car.  

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13 hours ago, MCHinson said:

I would call the DMV Inspector and have them confirm that the frame and engine number do not show as stolen. I don't think NC cares what PA's DMV shows as long as it does not show as stolen, but I would go straight to the horse's mouth to be sure. Ask DMV before you spend any money and you will know. In any case, I would think that the trouble that you have to go through to register it here should be worth a bit of a price reduction on the car.  

Junked VINs are not re-registerable.  Ugh.   The car is worth it for the parts honestly the side mounts should be worth it. Just not sure its worth my time to get it and deal with it.

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1 minute ago, kgreen said:

Bring it to GA, I can get it done for you.  I got a 1940 Super from Lamar a couple years ago without a title.  I knew it and accepted it.  The process here is that the local police run the registration and if it is not found on a stolen list, or not found at all, they sign a document that I bring to the DMV sufficient to register the car.  GA does not issue titles for cars build before 1974 (I think).  I then called the DMV in Michigan and posed as a resident that bought the car from Georgia and all I had was a current registration and a notarized bill of sale.  MI DMV said they would register and title the car.  

 

Here's the odd part of the story.  The '40 Super had a permanent registration from Ohio.  The cop would not tell me the name of the guy to whom it was registered, but said that based on his date of birth he was not likely alive anymore.  He signed the DMV form.  

Do they not run the junked vehicle database?  I've bought cars without titles....just never dealt with a blacklisted VIN.

Edited by NC-car-guy (see edit history)
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  • 1 month later...
11 hours ago, NC-car-guy said:

I have the missing tire cover and door handle

Looks good.

You also need a front bumper and a horn ring.

The front fender side lights are uncommon option. Can be expensive to buy now.  Good the car has those.

Side mounts also an option. Be careful opening the doors.

Looking forward to photos of the engine and interior

1939's have many 1 year only parts

 

Try Dave T.  The best source of pre war Buick parts is Dave Tacheny in Champlin, MN. He specializes in 1936-1941 Buick parts. He is old school:- no email. The best way to contact him is to call him between 4 and 7 pm Central at 763-427 3460. You can also write him a letter. His address is 11949 Oregon Ave N., Champlin, MN 55316. 

 

http://forums.aaca.org/topic/206688-dave-tachney/

 

Edited by 1939_Buick (see edit history)
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On 7/6/2021 at 2:38 PM, MRJBUICK said:

not trying to hijack the thread but the 60 next to the 39 in the pic is that on the block also, just wondering lol

sorry I lost track of this.  That 60 is a mortuary service car (short hearse) and not for sale.

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17 hours ago, NC-car-guy said:

sorry I lost track of this.  That 60 is a mortuary service car (short hearse) and not for sale.

thanks

i know your focus is on the 39 but any chance of pics of the 60

if not good luck with the 39

if you are still having issues with the title check out the Vermont option on you tube

Marty

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1 minute ago, MRJBUICK said:

thanks

i know your focus is on the 39 but any chance of pics of the 60

if not good luck with the 39

if you are still having issues with the title check out the Vermont option on you tube

Marty

Yea.  When he said not for sale I did not take additional photos.   I can ask if he'll share some for curiosity sake.

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  • 4 months later...
  • 4 months later...

I've crossed the title hurdle.  NC legal!  I feel bad after 25+ years being stored inside, now she's been outside for 8 months.  I need more storage (I need to stop buying cars). 🤣🤣

 

She does turn over easy, no spark and the wiring looks like a fire waiting to happen so I'm not going further yet.  Wiring and weather stripping are some immediate needs.

PXL_20230414_172832521.jpg

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  • 3 months later...

So I disconnected the harness except what I need to start the car. Of course the guy who hauled it here for me was nice enough to park it in gear.  I now can't get it out of gear and the clutch is bad. I laid under the car and tried to move the lever on the side of the transmission, no luck, it won't move.  Any tips?

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