auburnseeker Posted June 26, 2018 Author Share Posted June 26, 2018 So it took some serious brain work but I came up with a way to put a drip edge on those windows. I tried bending 1 piece every sequence possible but couldn't find a way to make them on one piece, so I decided to split it into 2 pieces with a lip to lock them together once installed. Overall I think this is better than the way I was going to do it. There were going to be 2 pieces anyways, this just puts the seam in a different spot. I actually bent up all the sill pieces and made a quick template for the underneath pieces with the nailing flange. Seems very strong the way it came out. I should be able to bang out all the bottom pieces in short order tomorrow. Again lots of figuring involved so that it's sealed as best as possible with no water traps. I think I'm going to do a 2 piece top cap as well in similar fashion. The overhang on the ends will be trimmed and bent over to seal everything up. I'll Silicone all the seams when I put it togehter as well, where the water would have a chance to enter and leave all the downside ones open so any water intrusion can drain out. Hopefully I can get the metal work done on these tomorrow, then they will be ready for installation. I have some final framing work to do on each opening as I wasn't sure what height they were going to be located when we framed the walls. The sun was setting just as I was coming in and I stumbled across this barn find. I better get that ford out and Dust it off or it will be one you read about years from now. Hot weather is coming end of the week, near 100 degrees, so it might be a good time to go over the brakes on that Ford so I can get it on the road. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted June 29, 2018 Author Share Posted June 29, 2018 Some progress. I finally have all the metal bent. 72 pieces, all containing 2 to 5 bends. I burned up a 2 foot by 50 foot roll of flashing with probably only 3 feet of waste total and that's trimmings. I assembled the first window. Took almost 3 hours, I had to rip some lumber down for all of them though so it wasn't exclusive. I put the next one together in about an hour or so. Hopefully I can finish them all up tomorrow. All the channels lock together and the only thing fastened is the window stops. They are screwed in from the outside so you don't see any fasteners. I did use a few staples which will be inside the wall just to tack things together tight before I drill for the screws. This was the first time I ever used a brake to make anything. They aren't perfect, but I have to rememeber they are going to be 13 feet off the ground. I still have to paint them to match the sashes but hopefully that won't be too involved. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted June 29, 2018 Author Share Posted June 29, 2018 I would have mitered the corners, but I think this gives better water shed. Here are a couple of more shots. Tolerances are a bit tight. I had a time trying to slide the lock strips on the first window, but I lightly oiled the male tracks and they slide in much easier on the second. I didn't really want to use a lubricant as I'm going to paint the windows, but I'll wipe them down with lacquer thinner really well first. Hopefully that will keep the fish eyes away. I also used it pretty sparingly. The junk leftover wainscoting is coming in handy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted June 29, 2018 Share Posted June 29, 2018 Looks like good progress. If the barn find is in the way or an unknown orphan I can come by and get it out of your way. No charge and I wouldn’t even need help doing it. Your going to be finished with this project soon with all you are getting done. As a bonus it looks good. Have fun. Dave S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted June 30, 2018 Author Share Posted June 30, 2018 Hindsight I probably should have bought the windows and been done with it, but I didn't really have an extra $2000 at the time. The brake will have other uses so it's an investment. I'm probably out about 300 in materials to do the windows, but the labor is starting to really rack up. Good thing it's free. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted July 16, 2018 Author Share Posted July 16, 2018 Well it's taken forever but I finally have real progress to report. I finished crafting those 6 new windows with the Pella sashes then finished cutting down all those Pella jambs. I got everything painted, then framed in all the openings. In the meantime Big Bertha's steering cylinder snapped off the end so I had to run it up to the welder's and have it fixed. He did a nice job and 6 dollars later plus another 40 for 1 inch bolts with locking nuts, the steering is in a little better shape. It was nice to have to work off from to cut out the openings then with a contraption I rigged up to roll the tyvek on the building with the lift, Of course a Hornet's nest slowed down the tyvek work a bit until I could get to the store to get some killer to take care of them. I got one side all set yesterday to put in the first 6 Homemade windows. Got the first opening caulked, then rain hit, so I had to wait it out and for the eves to stop dripping before I could put the one in before the caulk dried. Today I put the other 5 windows in. Had it down to about 15 minutes from start to finish including actually getting the window and putting down the sill seal. This afternoon, I got the lift moved around to the other side and got all the openings cut and tyvek on, but ran out of time as the wife had to head to work to get any windows in. Hopefully shouldn't take too long to get those other 6 windows in before I get cooked again as it's on the southern side. I got pretty fried today but was glad to step back and see as much done as I got. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xander Wildeisen Posted July 16, 2018 Share Posted July 16, 2018 That is really turning out nice, very nice setting with all the trees around your property. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted July 16, 2018 Share Posted July 16, 2018 Really liking those half windows up there. So, you gonna show us the Tyvec install contraption or are you afraid we'll steal your invention, patent it and make a billion $$ off it. As Xander said, nice setting and looks like you have plenty of rocks saved for future landscaping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted July 16, 2018 Share Posted July 16, 2018 Looks great, and well done. I can see it about a year from now, finished, full, and all the surrounding vegitation nice and green. Any plans to put some type of weather protection over the garage and man doors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted July 16, 2018 Author Share Posted July 16, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, MrEarl said: Really liking those half windows up there. So, you gonna show us the Tyvec install contraption or are you afraid we'll steal your invention, patent it and make a billion $$ off it. As Xander said, nice setting and looks like you have plenty of rocks saved for future landscaping. I was thinking I should get a shot while it is in action. I still have to do a 60 foot strip across the back but It's hard to get a shot while I'm in the bucket and no one was around to take one. If it would have been a car, Keiser would have just appeared and got the shot. Yes lots of rocks. I have some ideas but they would be alot easier to materialize if I had a grapple for my excavator. Surprisingly I see very few for sale and there really isn't anything left in the budget for more equipment. I figured even if we don't use the rocks around the garage, my other half will find projects for them elsewhere. It is nice to have a huge rock pile to pick from when you want to build a rock wall, even for flower gardens. Those half windows do let in alot more light and help balance the height so it's not so imposing. I'm hoping with that row on the southern side, I will get some solar heat as well in the winter. In late spring early summer, the overhang helps shade them, but the much lower sun will focus the light and heat in the building. All the windows have grids for them so they will match the doors more or less. Edited July 16, 2018 by auburnseeker (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted July 16, 2018 Author Share Posted July 16, 2018 1 hour ago, edinmass said: Looks great, and well done. I can see it about a year from now, finished, full, and all the surrounding vegitation nice and green. Any plans to put some type of weather protection over the garage and man doors? I am going to put some type of 2 foot roof at the 16 foot mark if nothing else than to break up that height and give me a break for my siding. I'm not sure if I will do any more than that. I was thinking over the garage door to put a matched gable style pair of fake rafters that follows the 6 on 12 roof pitch. I'm also shrinking that door height down to 12 foot from 14. I don't have anything that tall or anticipate getting anything that tall. It could easily be enlarged as it's framed for it. I plan to build swing in Bifold doors with 4 foot wide panels like I did on my shed for now. Even with hardware they will come in at probably under 500 where as a garage door, and not even one I really like is running in the 6,000 range. I've overspent already and I'm pretty much tapped out, so a few days labor is more manageable than that 6G bill. I think the door I would like to put on is closer to 10G. No power either in the building for a door opener, so I still have to get out to open and close either. Doing the greenery will be nice. It's hard to envision that far down the road. But then again, I wasn't even digging the hole yet for the foundation at this time last year. and while I was tamping for the footings, I couldn't wait until I finally could back fill and not have all the holes and rocks to climb over and work around. Then the same with the drive , the shell, and the roof, so it all comes togehter eventually but when it comes down to pretty much just you doing the work, while still earning a living, those milestones take much longer to achieve making you wonder if you are ever going to reach them. My next big milestone is the floor, but before that I need to get my soffet all done (which will be cetol natural wood color wainscoting) then the Siding and those doors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted July 16, 2018 Author Share Posted July 16, 2018 On another note. I won't be able to afford paving the place anytime soon. I was wondering if anyone has done pavers in front of their shop? What are the pros or cons? Especially in a setting that gets snow and will be plowed. Again thinking down the road here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted September 3, 2018 Share Posted September 3, 2018 Framing for 14 feet and then going down to 12is a great idea.......keeping options open in the future is important. Take photos to show it’s possible, and it helps When twenty years later you don’t remember exactly what you did.......learned this one the hard way. Understand the budget constraints, but just a small blacktop pad in front of each man door and a ten foot pad in front of the big door would be a godsend and probably be good for twenty years......I didn’t do it and regretted it for the next five years, then bit the bullet. Outside air lines and electrical are a must when you get around to doing it. I would also put some wall protectors to be sure no one hits the big door jam going in and out.....another lesson learned! You don’t need protection from yourself......just you family and neighbors! I bet a nice wood stove would make the building comfortable in all except mid December to mid February, so that might be a good option.......plus you could put it near the work bench so even in the very cold weather you could still work on stuff on an emergency basis. It’s a fine shop, and almost everyone here would give their left arm for it. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughing Coyote Posted September 3, 2018 Share Posted September 3, 2018 On 7/16/2018 at 6:57 AM, auburnseeker said: I was wondering if anyone has done pavers in front of their shop? What are the pros or cons? Only thing that would be a concern is that if you drive anything heavy over them they can sink if yo don't have a hard packed base. Had a forklift run over some I had down for a while and it left a dip in them where the forklift tires drove. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted September 3, 2018 Author Share Posted September 3, 2018 3 minutes ago, Laughing Coyote said: Only thing that would be a concern is that if you drive anything heavy over them they can sink if yo don't have a hard packed base. Had a forklift run over some I had down for a while and it left a dip in them where the forklift tires drove. I guess you could pull the dented area and fill it with stone, then put them back. I have been running my 20,000 lb lift around outside and it's pretty packed. I have alot of stone down for a base with dust so it packs good. It's probably something I won't end up doing, but just brainstorming out loud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsancle Posted September 4, 2018 Share Posted September 4, 2018 I’m with Eddy on the pads outside the doors. Winter is coming...sadly... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe in Canada Posted September 4, 2018 Share Posted September 4, 2018 On 7/16/2018 at 9:57 AM, auburnseeker said: On another note. I won't be able to afford paving the place anytime soon. I was wondering if anyone has done pavers in front of their shop? What are the pros or cons? Especially in a setting that gets snow and will be plowed. Again thinking down the road here. On a tour past July went to a fellows private collection up north here. He had two very large buildings facing each other and a smaller workshop off the side. The pad area in the centre was done in pavers with a 1920s touring out of pavers in the centre. It was very nice and should have taken a picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted September 4, 2018 Author Share Posted September 4, 2018 (edited) Unfortunately no money for concrete inside or out this year. I did just finish putting all the tyvek on all the way around and all the Hurricane plates plus installed the rest of the windows and flashed them all with the flashing tape. It's progress just very slow as it's so big, one guy only makes a little dent. The 40 ford that was going to be sold to finance my floor has lots of issues I need to address before I market it. Nothing significant just stupid stuff that wasn't done right. Not to mention I need to do my soffits and siding before I can get my CO so I can then go in and put the concrete in. I'll be lucky to get that done before winter. The only good thing is most of my siding is pre finished as are most of the batten strips. I'm hoping it goes fairly quick when I get going. with 14 foot long by 1 foot wide boards, I should make good progress when the heat breaks. Edited September 4, 2018 by auburnseeker (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted November 15, 2018 Author Share Posted November 15, 2018 I finally have some updates to post. Though I have been working on the shop in most of my spare time, which is 6 to 8 hours some days, the size of the building takes quite a bit of work to actually look like you got something completed. I went over to a Friends and bought a bunch of wood for my trim. We planed out a bunch of rough cut for the bottom banding boards. I had him deliver those and sawed them all to a similar width so I will be able miter them together when I put them up. He also delivered a big pile of planed lumber for the rest of my trim. The wife and I spent quite a few days staining all of them so I will be able to work in the colder weather putting them up. My wife over the summer also stained all the batten strips and coated all the wainescoating for the soffits with Cetol. Here are a few stacks there are many more not shown. All these pieces of green trim required 3 coats of stain. I think there are 75 to 100 pieces of green trim. It took 5 gallons of stain to coat them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted November 15, 2018 Author Share Posted November 15, 2018 For real progress I finished all the window installs earlier this summer. Added my rafter ties and tyvek. I just added this roof return on the end. I have all the shingles precut so as soon as the weather breaks I will get the roofing on it. I never framed one of these before so it took some figuring but I got it eventually. As with every project this late in the fall, you finish it up in the dark with a flash light a couple of hours after dark with a storm coming in every time. I also framed down my garage door to 12 foot from 14 foot in preparation to build doors for it. I have to get a quote on a garage door but I don't think it's in the budget at the moment. I can build swinging doors that look attractive for the cost of the hardware as I have extra 16 foot siding I can use. I still have to add the tyvek to the reframed opening. The lift has been wonderful as I can use it to hold the material in place to nail it as I rarely have any help and have to do everything alone. Before I finish my new door opening up, I was wondering if it will cause a problem for the masons to pour the floor when I finally reach that stage. Does anyone know if a pump truck will have a problem pumping through my 12 foot high by 16 foot wide door? I know the trucks are 13 foot 2 inches high to the top of the swivel mount and the boom goes out from there which will mean it's too high unless it can articulate down and through the opening. I looked at specs on line, but couldn't quite tell. Has anyone ever done a pour like that with one through a 12 foot opening? This roof return ended up costing me another $1000 plus in just materials. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted November 15, 2018 Author Share Posted November 15, 2018 The trim is 6 inch for around the doors and windows with 8 inch corner boards, garage door trim, as well as top and bottom banding boards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelsBuicks Posted November 15, 2018 Share Posted November 15, 2018 (edited) Hate to see that snow because it means short daylight and slowed progress. But, it’s looking great. I found a pump truck capability chart and it looks promising. I’ll try to post it. http://www.pumppartners.com/documents/schwing31htreach.pdf this shows maybe 8-10 feet ? Edited November 15, 2018 by JoelsBuicks (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted November 15, 2018 Author Share Posted November 15, 2018 I saw that chart online as well. I was trying to figure if they have the room to unfold it and get the boom through the doorway as I think it's around 40 to 50 feet to the bank from the garage door. That first section of boom looks like it has to be at the 13 foot height. I'll wait to finish it off until i get a definitive answer. I might have to call the concrete guys. The only problem i have is I probably won't use the guys that did the rest as a friend's floor didn't turn out well that they did, but the other company did a beautiful job on the projects they have been doing. They are a little more money, but this is one job you only do once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Dobbin Posted November 16, 2018 Share Posted November 16, 2018 On 7/16/2018 at 9:57 AM, auburnseeker said: On another note. I won't be able to afford paving the place anytime soon. I was wondering if anyone has done pavers in front of their shop? What are the pros or cons? Especially in a setting that gets snow and will be plowed. Again thinking down the road here. At my old shop in Florida I was able to find about 6000 Augusta brick pavers (1920's street pavers) for the front of the barn. Each weighted 8 pounds and was 4"X8"X4" thick, a lot of work to get them level, but they looked period perfect with the rough sawn cypress B & B siding and my gas pumps. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 16, 2018 Share Posted November 16, 2018 (edited) If you think you might ever want a colored floor do it now, put the color in the concrete. By the way, that is a gorgeous shop. Edited November 16, 2018 by Guest (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted November 16, 2018 Author Share Posted November 16, 2018 Concrete is still a year out atleast. I'm waiting for a quote on a nice craftsman style garage door. The guy said he though it would come ion cheaper than the other doro with real glass windows so we will see. If it's too much, I'll be building them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1912Staver Posted November 16, 2018 Share Posted November 16, 2018 That's going o be a great shop. Did you compare the cost of a steel building ? Your structure is large enough there might not have been a big difference in price. Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted November 17, 2018 Author Share Posted November 17, 2018 The benefits of steel were minor, though maybe cheaper, I wanted a shingled roof and wood siding so just the framing would have been steel. The few guys I talked to wanted to just sell me a steel package including siding and roof. I think with labor I have around 60 in the shell without any windows or doors finished as you see it. That doesn't include the concrete but that wasn't included in the steel prices either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Dobbin Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 Another thought is insulation. I waited for two years after I moved in, then had foam insulation blown in from the top of the walls up in the gable ends and the entire bottom of the roof. Added a Reznor gas furnace hanging from the sissor trusses. I leave it on 35 degrees all winter and can go in a bump the thermostat to 55 and I'm set for the day. Take less than 1/2 hour to get the whole place to 55. A great working temperature. I recommend you do that before you fill the building with stuff to cover, maybe even before the concrete. I insulated my walls as I needed display space for my American Picker's Collection of stuff, or hung cabinets My theroy is waste no floor space with junk. Also consider a floor drain in front of the door where you drive in with snow on your tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted November 25, 2018 Author Share Posted November 25, 2018 I was planning on 12 inches of roxul with atleast 1 inch of rigid foam inside for a thermal barrier with the foil face in the ceiling and 8 inches of roxul with that same minimum 1 inch Foam in the walls. Should be able to easily heat it after a good bean supper. Seriously though, I'm thinking of an outdoor multifuel boiler to run this and the house. with possibly another tap to run the old garage. There is a place to locate it centrally between all 3 and I can run the lines down the powerline so the digging might not be as hard as I won't have to go through every tree root on the property. After working out there today with an inside temperature in probably the teens or low 20's I can't even imagine the day I will finally pour a floor much less actually start insulating. When you are doing it as pay as you go, it's a slow process. Especially when you are the one doing all the work and still running your business 7 days a week. I'm, still waiting on a quote for a garage door. Once I get that I can decide whether to build or buy a door. If it comes in under 3G, I think I'm going to just bite the bullet. That will take a good month of sales to try to come up with that. I can open it back to 14 feet though and not have a worry about the cement trucks. They will be able to pour the floor without a pump truck then. For inside junk, I have been trying to keep everything on pallets so I can move them with my tractor. If I pour it in 2 sections i can also do half, then move everything to the finished half and pour the rest the next month or so. Then nothing will have to be outside otehr than Bertha. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe in Canada Posted November 25, 2018 Share Posted November 25, 2018 (edited) 5 hours ago, Paul Dobbin said: Also consider a floor drain in front of the door where you drive in with snow on your tires. If you do put in a pre cast trench drain system go with Mea being a much nicer cast with very little porosity. I would also go with a metal rail and maybe even a cast rail to take the load to prevent a failure. Stay away from plastic only polymer concrete! If you want to get fancy you could go with Iron Age grating system in cast steal or even nickel bronze picking out the pattern you like. But you will have to watch what patter you choose as some are not high heel friendly when the ladies might come in and see what you are up to. One more thing go with hot dipped galvanized and not galvanised as there is a big difference when you are talking road salt.. Edited November 25, 2018 by Joe in Canada (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted November 25, 2018 Share Posted November 25, 2018 Do you need to prepare the outside pavement base to prevent frost lifting it? I was wondering if tiles or paving slabs would be good enough; they heave all over the place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted November 25, 2018 Author Share Posted November 25, 2018 Without a septic system they won't allow a floor drain. I am a long way from worrying about though. I'm not sure about frost heaving with the pavers. But I suppose there would have to be some. I'll worry about the door and siding first so I can get my CO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted November 25, 2018 Share Posted November 25, 2018 2 minutes ago, auburnseeker said: I'm not sure about frost heaving with the pavers. But I suppose there would have to be some. If you can exclude water, it should be minimal. But that means no-fines gravel under it to some depth plus deep drainage to keep the water table below the gravel. My brother's area in Lincoln, MA requires 5' deep foundations to prevent frost and tree heave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidAU Posted November 25, 2018 Share Posted November 25, 2018 (edited) "I'm, still waiting on a quote for a garage door. Once I get that I can decide whether to build or buy a door. If it comes in under 3G, I think I'm going to just bite the bullet. That will take a good month of sales to try to come up with that. I can open it back to 14 feet though and not have a worry about the cement trucks. They will be able to pour the floor without a pump truck then." Does your local concreteing services have a concrete line pump? These are like the boom pumps but they run the hose over the ground instead of through a boom and can pump the concrete across the ground up to 150 meters from the truck. They are commonly used where concrete is required inside an existing building where the boom type can't reach. It may be worthwhile contacting your local concrete plant to see what's avalible before you decide on the door. Edited November 25, 2018 by DavidAU (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted November 25, 2018 Author Share Posted November 25, 2018 10 hours ago, Spinneyhill said: If you can exclude water, it should be minimal. But that means no-fines gravel under it to some depth plus deep drainage to keep the water table below the gravel. My brother's area in Lincoln, MA requires 5' deep foundations to prevent frost and tree heave. I have it well pitched for drainage by the building but there is one area along the outside where the water will stay for part of a day until it leaches down through the ground. That's probably 25 feet from the building. I was figuring maybe 20 feet out at the most but again another one of those thinking out loud ideas that probably won't come to fruition. I'll have to check into the concrete line and see if they offer it around here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted November 25, 2018 Author Share Posted November 25, 2018 I did get the roof on last week, just before another round of snow as you can see. Fortunately I got it done before it hit 5 below zero with a day time high of 17. I cut a few hundred pieces of soffit to length yesterday and added a few nailers inside, then did a little clean up. It was still rather frigid inside with the previous day having only been 24 for a high so the building was still probably in the low 20's inside. I never though we would be dealing with such prolonged unseasonably cold weather. Today it has been raining. So now everything is coated with ice. You just can win, though I will continue to trudge on this winter. I can't wait to actually start putting siding up. I have a bunch of flashing to bend up. I think I will move that into the heated garage though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted November 27, 2018 Author Share Posted November 27, 2018 I just got a price from the local guy for a fully insulated I believe Clopay R18 Carriage house 16 by 14 foot door. Without opener fully installed with the arched windows it's just shy of 4G. It's similar to this one, but obviously going to be taller but the width is the same. That's in a wood tone which I still have to pick the color of. Should look good with the brown siding and green trim, since I will have similar finished wood soffits as you can barely see in the previous posts for the roof return. I hate to spend the money, but it is a major focal point and I won't be building swinging doors with 500 to 1000 worth of hardware not to mention the lumber to later replace with something like this. Looks like I better get to selling to try to make up the shortfall. Of course like everything I didn't want to spend more than 2500 for a door but found one that's what I really want for more. He says it's about 4 weeks out once I order it, so it's time to get serious. That also will take care of any worry about cement trucks fitting in the door. Looks like I better take that framed down opening out. Of course it's nailed and not screwed in. I'll add hardware to the outside at some point to dress them up like real carriage house doors. I have some real nice literature offered on Ebay right now if anyone wants to help the garage door fund with lots more to come. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelsBuicks Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 I completely agree with your thought about it being a big focal point for your shop. Maybe better said is that anything less than a first class door job will detract from that nice architecture. I would wager that you can use the time saved to pay for the additional cost. There may be a chance to save some labor. I bought a 12’w x 14’h insulated door I think it was about $900 with all hardware. The labor quote was around $900 and I ended up installing this door myself. It was no problem at all. Perhaps this is something to consider? I get the chills looking at those pics. Too frozen too soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted November 27, 2018 Author Share Posted November 27, 2018 With the size of the doors and winding those springs, I'll pay the labor charge. I get weak in the knees around garage door springs. Especially ones big enough to raise that door. besides if they break something putting them in it's on them and I couldn't get help to install them as They are definitely not a one man job. It's snowing outside right now after raining all day. A little accumulation. They are saying could result in 5 to 8 inches depending. With another 1 to 3 in snow squalls scheduled for tomorrow. I'll be ordering that door in the next 2 days I think as long as they get back to me and I can decide on the color. Hopefully I'll have a door by New years. Yes way too early. Over a month earlier than last year and temperatures have been trending 10 to 15 degrees below normal almost every day. Hard to feed us in the Northeast the planet is burning up theory when we have had record cold that won't leave for a month now. They are even mis recording it as they called our low at 3 degrees one day when everybody had -5 and colder. Even one of the weathermen in an article on the news was saying he's getting tired of having to look back to the beginning of data keeping at all the record colds we keep breaking. I'm much happier sweating to death than freezing. Seems a warm planet would be better than a cold one as well. Nothing grows in frozen soil, but plants will thrive in warm weather. It takes alot more energy to heat everything than it does to cool a few select things as well. I bought an AC unit for my old super insulated garage for the warm humid summer we had and never turned it on as it never reached over 72 inside. So far the heat has run just about every day for the last month just to keep it at 50 degrees. Besides all the energy needed to move the white accumulation and tons of salt the highway department continually puts down to try to melt it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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