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JoelsBuicks

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JoelsBuicks last won the day on October 31 2018

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About JoelsBuicks

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  • Location:
    Owasso Oklahoma

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  1. Jake, I’m gonna tell you something here that you probably already know. First, this car can be yours for $10k or less. The owner wants it gone, he doesn’t even know the model and he doesn’t want to overwinter it. Start at $8,500 and work it from there. But, make sure door wood is solid. Second Jake, your bank interest might be a tenth of a percent. So, you can own this car for nothing. Clean it up real good and make it reliable. Drive it and love it and keep it original. when you buy something reasonably priced that will hold its value, it costs you almost nothing. tell u
  2. 1939_Buick what a great reply! It just reminds me how important this forum and its members is to many Buick enthusiasts including me. Thanks to all who share their time and talent! Joel
  3. That’s looking good and I think very highly of your disciplined approach to get an organized workplace before you get knee-deep into a project. I need to take a lesson from this myself. Thanks again for sharing it with us! Joel
  4. Mr. Earl, is that called capricious compliance?
  5. Just curious, are there several sizes of ‘35 wheels like for ‘36? I know for a fact that every ‘36 series wheel is different. Your wheel doesn’t look like my ‘35 (series 50). Joel
  6. Holy cow Tom! Aside from the square end as you’ve said, that looks exactly like what I need. I see no reason to not buy one and just square the end of my handle shaft. I just knew this would be a long shot request but you fixed that in a hurry! Thanks so much for weighing in! Joel
  7. Tom, can you try the picture again. It might be just what I need. thank you, joel
  8. The deck lid latch on my ‘36 - 66S is broken. The culprit is a small pot metal piece that fits on the end of the handle and has an eccentric that retracts the latch bolt when turned. This piece is encapsulated within the latch assembly which did not come apart easily. The pictures should help. My question is to see if anyone has found an alternative or might by chance have a spare. I suspect that this is 36-37 coupes with rumble seats only. I may resort to having the part made; does anyone else need one? Again the broken part is pictured. Thanks, Joel
  9. First let me say I am not familiar with this engine. My experience is with 1931 and newer but I’ll offer a suggestion. Are the rod caps fitted with shims on this motor? If so, did you remove any shims to help with any wear in the crank and rod babbitt? You may have slightly flat rod journals and used that flat side to gauge how many shims to remove. If so, they would become very tight upon turning and give the problem you are describing. If you suspect this, consider loosening the rod caps one at a time to see if it frees up. I suppose you can also loosen crank mai
  10. Quick test to see if it’s bad: put it to your mouth and suck on it. If you can pull air through it, it’s bad. If not, it will most likely work - put it on and try it. I can’t help you with the linkage. Now be easy on the comments 😉
  11. That orifice is 3/64” diameter - as measured using a drill bit.
  12. To follow up on this, I took Bob Engle’s suggestion and I cut a new diaphragm from a recent fuel pump diaphragm. It turned out that the old material was in great condition because it was protected via multiple layers. I wish I had taken more pics but the end result turned out very well. It sealed up and actuates the switch like intended. How long will it last? We’ll see. Thanks, Joel
  13. Lamar, It’s yours if you want it. Very tough shape but since it’s brass, a patient guy with an eye for straight could help it out a lot. It’s also missing a mounting screw on back but that’s an easy fix.
  14. Bob, that would probably work. A new kit would cost $69 just to get that diaphragm. I may try a Nylon reinforced nitrile That I found on eBay. It’s less than $20 shipped. i read about a guy who used an inner tube and it worked. I’m pretty sure that wouldn’t work for long.
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