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JoelsBuicks last won the day on October 31 2018

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About JoelsBuicks

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  1. Larry, you are right. I did some searching and found that the reformulated gas is far fewer. But the map did not include seasonal blends. Two major changes that are now several years old are the benzene reduction and sulfur reduction. I recall a time when refiners were crying foul about ethanol reducing gasoline demand. Then, almost in a moment’s time, refiners realized they could leverage ethanol producers due to over production thereby buying it cheap and selling it at gasoline prices. Big profit! Then they started making subgrade unleaded and blending with ethanol to get octa
  2. In recent years refiners have had a surplus of butane. Butane is a relatively low value byproduct of refining. In fact, as refiners process heavier and cheaper crudes, those processes produce more butane. Refiners have discovered that they can blend butane into gasoline up to meeting a seasonal vapor pressure specification usually established by a city or region. Essentially they can sell butane at gasoline prices. The octane bump that they get from ethanol helps facilitate this blending. Butane is volatile and it will flash at elevated temps and cause vaporization
  3. Regarding fire resistance, boron is a fire retardant, have you thought about using it? 😬 ok, not funny but I just couldn’t help myself!
  4. Looks like a Model 46. Trim on bonnet side is truncated and upright air cleaner vs horizontal. Lots of wood originally in floor may better explain why they are gone vs being rusted out.
  5. I ended the wood at the bottom of the sill after coping it into the sill and securing it with a screw and glue. There is a separate piece of wood (thin like about 5/16”) glued and screwed to the bottom of the sill along the outer edge to accommodate that metal cover that is at the bottom of the doors.
  6. Erndog, you are correct and for the record I need to simply say that this is the way I did it and it may well be incorrect. So, I went and checked the old rotted sill and there isn’t anything left at that point that would indicate that the brace was recessed or wasn’t . I then checked the old post and it wasn’t recessed there in the vertical position. Like you said, all other braces (six others) are indeed recessed and if I had it to do again, I would very likely recessed it (about 1/8”) for that reason alone.
  7. I checked and those lower braces are not recessed into the sill.
  8. If you can figure out that we are dealing with the same part then I can help you with dimensions or more pictures. I recall that these two posts were very difficult to make work. From what I could tell, the original wood was installed before the windshield metal was welded to the cowl. This means that you cannot simply duplicate the original piece and “slip it in.” It sort of “rolls” in after you remove some corner wood that is completely hidden once installed. Most definitely the toughest two pieces I made, even worse than the pieces that had no old wood left. I thin
  9. Mine is ‘31 8-67 and I guess I don’t know the job number. I will have to get a closer look before I can answer your question about the brace. Both of my sills were rotted away from the post forward.
  10. It looks like your old right side post is in pretty good shape, except for the top maybe. Which dimensions do you need and do you think a ‘31-60 would be the same? I had a partial old post rotted on top and bottom and just had to improvise- waited on making those final cuts until I could wait no more. By then I pretty much knew how they needed to be. I have never seen any factory drawings with dimensions but I bet they existed.
  11. I’m glad that you brought the headlight s up. I was going to mention that because I had read the same thing once but my own experience is different. In one picture below is my Century Coupe headlight. It is about 11” long from the back of the light to the back of the ring. It also has the stainless trim on top. Compare that to one of my Roadmasters and that light measures about 13”. I could be wrong but it just doesn’t look like the Sr. 60 has been changed. Of course my Sr. 40 is short with no trim but I also own a spare set of long headlights that look original but have no evi
  12. I wonder how on earth do they get this wrong and is it purposely done? Surely these folks know that this isn’t right - maybe they don’t know. I want to give them the benefit of the doubt. Some of the subtleties: 16” wheels vs. 15” on Century, upright air cleaner vs. horizontal from EE-22 carb, one piece exhaust manifold is 233 not 320, hood is about 3+inches longer on Century (evidenced in ornate stainless on bonnet), taillight lenses without center button reflector are small series, and last, speedometer goes to 100 vs. 120 on larger series. I think another is the fan but I’m g
  13. Not sure that this is the joint that you’re speaking of but if so, I sunk the screws in from the inside. I was careful about screw length and used glue in that mortise & tenon joint.
  14. I would cut along each crease fairly deeply with a cutoff wheel but not cut through it. Then begin beating this back into shape. Consider hammer/heat/dolly for final flattening. Weld up the creases, grind to suit. Joel
  15. If indeed the wood is solid, this car has lots of promise. But, I’ve seen so much wood that looks solid but isn’t that I am skeptical. When the seller says there are spare parts I have to wonder if they are actually spare parts or parts that have been removed and shelved or boxed. These limiteds have some unique parts - almost impossible to source. I hope this car finds someone with the passion and resources to see this one through.
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