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The toy box and the big shop, my New shop Build.


auburnseeker

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Must have been a slow morning if all you had to talk about was my shed. ;) 

You definitely have the advantage.  For a few minutes the temperature reached almost the normal highs for the time of year and I thought,  wow if. I had a week of Normal weather,  I would be in good shape. 

I did bust my butt Yesterday and today until dark.  I got all the nailers inside and got all the siding on that end today.  All screwed in place,  cursing the guy that sold me the 2 and 1/2 inch phillips headed screws (yeah why wouldn't you stock square or star drive exterior coated screws in the 25 lb box, only Phillips)  every time I slipped off one trying to drive it home. 

I was lucky to get the lift started today after all the cold to beable to put in all the upper screws.  Would have literally been taking my life into my hands as the screw gun slips and I fall off the ladder. 

Anyways,  they are calling for snow later in the afternoon and an overnight low of 30? so maybe I can get the corner boards and top banding board on before the storm hits.  Fingers crossed here as that's all I really need the lift for,  then I can put it away for the winter.  Of course I have to clean out enough space in the garage to park a 28 foot lift so that will take a while.   Photos to come tomorrow.  It was dark when I finished today as usual this time of year. 

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5 minutes ago, Steve_Mack_CT said:

Randy. Hope you made progress today.  Attended the CSRA meet here in CT, hadn't been in a while.  Very few decent parts of any kind but definately where 300 or so vendors bring old snowblowers, CDs, mismatched tires and t shirts to die.  3 hours we won't be getting back.  Feel bad for dude who parked next to us w jersey plates!  🤔😁

With the forecast,  maybe they thought the Snowblowers would be hot sellers? 

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Well I busted my butt today and got the end sided band and corner boards up, as well as screwed and marked the whole end for the batten strips.  All i have left is to put the strips up then the siding is done.  I can do that all off the ground and from a ladder.  Now that I'm done with the lift for the year,  I drove her back around then had to clean out the shop to put her in for the year.  I found some floor space I haven't seen since the walls went up. 

With the siding all up I was finally able to put her in the back corner out of the way. 

My dad's truck is having issues again,  so he dropped it off for me to fix so that's in a few of the photos.  Of course with the salt on the roads now,  he's in no hurry for me to get it fixed. 

So I'm happy that phase is over.  The discoloration on the boards is dust from being in the shop.  Mother nature should clean it off this winter. 

I have the batten strips all ready to go and close trimmed I'll work on pre-nailing them this week to put them up if it's not to cold.  Suppose to be -1 one night. 

I also have a couple of casings to put on the man doors, but those I don't even need a ladder for.  My goal was to finish anything I needed the lift for and since that's done,  I feel a whole lot better.

Hopefully the snow we are getting doesn't pile up too much as I need to still put the chains on the tractor and plow, as well as replace the fuel line on the used snow blower I bought,  so all we have right now are shovels for the 600 foot driveway and a leaf blower. 

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1 hour ago, SC38DLS said:

What year is your dad’s truck? 

It's a 47,  Ford of course 1/2 ton with the factory stake body.  It came from CA so it has no rust. Too expensive to give it a new paint job, so he uses it as is.  I had it running real good,  but either the coil crapped out or the new distributor I put in it, didn't have the points tightened (it came all preset so I didn't take it apart to check anything) and they closed up as it has weak spark now but was really good when it left and he drove it over 100 miles before it started acting up while he was driving it. I was ahead of him with the Hudson when it started crapping out at a car show/ Cruise. He took it home on his trailer afterwards, but driving dump truck 60 hours a week and care taking a few camps left him no time to even take a look at it, besides being 78.  I should have had him leave it here so I could fix it then as he never got to drive it again this fall. I just did the brakes on it this summer for him, He didn't ask me to,  but when I test drove it after fixing the distributor They were all sticking from sitting and the wheel cylinders were all rusted up,   because I knew he wouldn't get to them either and fixed a few other things he never got to.   I just haven't had a chance to check the coil or pull the distributor apart as it's a mallory (1951 Ford flathead) and you have to unscrew the rotor then work under the weights.  Not a big deal,  but the garage was more important.  When it warms up next week,  i'll get to it.  It's not going anywhere until spring now.   

I still have that new Dodge to work on as well.  Kind of itching to get back to it.  I did get a few minutes to do some polishing the other night at 1AM. 

Edited by auburnseeker (see edit history)
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I had a 49 1 ton I did a frame off. Drove it twice and realized with my back problems cutting off the nerves in my legs I was afraid I couldn’t get to the brake pedal fast in an emergency. Loved the truck. I put a black walnut bed floor in it and moved the gas tank to the back of the bed and switched out the widow makers Otherwise stock. A3FFCE6C-BDFE-432A-942E-A5D2B90F5FDE.thumb.jpeg.79348fb7b315686f7c6aa232d46d048d.jpeg

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Gentleman......I know it’s cold up north this morning.........It’s going to be about 80 here today......thought I would share with you my day today..........It’s 7am and I’m going in early again today............worked an 11 hour shift yesterday.............even with the holiday. Today will be a “fun” day at work..........two wonderful things have arrived for the building............we only use Inter City Lines to move cars.......they are the BEST! 👍

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Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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3 hours ago, edinmass said:

Gentleman......I know it’s cold up north this morning.........It’s going to be about 80 here today......thought I would share with you my day today..........It’s 7am and I’m going in early again today............worked an 11 hour shift yesterday.............even with the holiday. Today will be a “fun” day at work..........two wonderful things have arrived for the building............we only use Inter City Lines to move cars.......they are the BEST! 👍

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Your day at work looks a little better than mine.  Mine started with a shovel and a layer of ice.  Later will be tire chains and the plow, if I don't just give up and go work on the Dodge for some mental therapy in the heated garage. 

If I hadn't built that shop,  i would be looking to sell and move some place atleast 50 percent better. 

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Randy, I’ll have my new place down here soon..........you and the wife can fly down and spend a few days in our in-law apartment, I even have a 18 year old Ford Focus you can drive around in.............we’re only four miles from the airport........easy up and back.......direct flights from Bradley airport are less than 150 round trip in early February............Ed

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52 minutes ago, edinmass said:

Randy, I’ll have my new place down here soon..........you and the wife can fly down and spend a few days in our in-law apartment, I even have a 18 year old Ford Focus you can drive around in.............we’re only four miles from the airport........easy up and back.......direct flights from Bradley airport are less than 150 round trip in early February............Ed

Much appreciated but we have the kids issue to deal with,  so for now I'll just dream. 

The wife says when you retire to put in a good word for me.  By then I might even know something about prewar cars. We'll have definitely had enough of Northeast winters by then.   Damn close to the breaking point now especially with snow and ice (the driveway looks like January)  this early in November.  Atleast in January you are on the other side.  We still have to months to get there.  

I might do a brake job on the new Dodge just to keep me busy and ward off the cabin fever. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here she is all finished (well for inspector purposes) on the outside. I did finish up the last little bit of siding on the back wall at the bottom which I will pull off when stone the bottom over.  I figured it needed to be sided though to get the CO.  No reason to make him not pass it over something that I had the materials for and only took a couple of hours to do. 

I took a couple of close ups as well to show some details. Everything is swollen up right now so all the fits are real tight.  Summer time which seems like the more Humid time,  some of the fits open up. 

It will be nice to do some stone work hopefully next year around the bottom to really finish it off. 

We are going to do a bunch of landscaping next year leading out to and around the garage.  I need to put a nice walk in between the two garages as it was a lawn,  but has gotten so trampled I now have a muddy hill leading up to the old garage. 

I think all I have left to do inside for the CO,  is make some metal caps for the foam insulation on the foundation. Of course thats 260 feet I have to cover, but have some someone gave me from their project and it's temporary so it doesn't matter how great they come out.  It shouldn't take too long to make them up on the brake.

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1 hour ago, mike6024 said:

I never see workmanship like that around here. Just OSB, T-111, and Hardiboard siding. Cheap and easy.

Other than my Friend who built his much like mine less the nice soffits (which I think he is going to start doing after seeing mine) most guys have a tin building.  A few have crazy nice places down on the lake with nice garages but then again I imagine many of those properties are in the $2,500,000 range and up.  Most shops are not as big as well.  More along the line of oversized 3 cars.   I could have went alot fancier if I went half the size or smaller. 

 

For inside if I can scrape up/ make a bundle of money,  I plan on 8 inches of Roxul in the walls and 12 inches in the ceiling,  then 2 inches of Foil faced High R foam over everything. 

I'm not sure on wall finish yet.  I'm leaning a little toward board and batten unfinished inside.  It would give it a nice rustic look for hanging all my signs.  The problem is that it's dark as it ages. 

I know alot of guys have gone white metal but After the outside looks so nice,  I hate to have the inside come out so cheap. Lots of money to be spent on electric 10G or more,  a Floor 30G, and the insulation , probably atleast another 30G before we get to wall finishes.  I don't really like sheetrock.  With the foam, the walls will have to be stripped out with nailers,  regardless of what I put in it.   Could go with the same finish as in the other garage but that's pretty labor intensive and expensive.  (which means that will probably be what I end up doing) 

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Back in the 80’s (I understand that’s ancient history to some of you) we built a 3600 sq ft house and the contractor convinced me to go with the spray on foam insulation. The company made a deal with me if our heating bill was more than $350 for the 4 months of Nov thru Feb they would refund the cost of the insulation. It was a cold winter and the total was $341. I’ll never forget that number and was amazed they were so accurate. At the time they were just starting to use that type of foam in the Chicago metro area. It was used quite a bit in Canada. The house still has low heat bills compared to neighbors. You may think of using that type insulation

 

Have fun

dls

Edited by SC38DLS (see edit history)
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I hadn't gotten a quote but it still seems like you would have thermal bridging with all the studs,  where you won't with a full 2 inch inner foam shell.  Not sure as I haven't researched it that well yet. I do plan to have infloor heat, which the floor will be insulated of course as well,  plus the insulation is inside the foundation,  so I'm not heating the actual concrete of the foundation. 

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I’m sure you are right about the studs but the question is does the cost savings offset the cost of heat loss on something like that. On that house my neighbors were spending about $200 a month back then for about the same size house with conventional batten insulation. Your inner two inch foam would save more but is it worth the cost. I’m sure your research will answer that as the rest of this building has been done so well

Have fun

dls

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The one area money spent up front is usually the best return is on insulation.  Unfortunately that heat bill comes around every year and the cost of heat rarely goes down.  Now i could heat with a wood boiler,  and haven't ruled a multi fuel boiler out, that requires having coal, wood or oil dropped and to do it smartly,  build a boiler house centrally located between the shop, Garage and house then heat all 3 with it.  Our house is well insulated but has alot of glass and we burn a little over 500 gallons of fuel a winter keeping it fairly cool but it also heats our water. The central boiler especially if wood fired would probably be pretty economical.  Though pumping water to all 3 buildings and back would require a fair amount of energy.  I was told ot put it in one of the buildings because then you essentially heat that building for free, but if it's going to be a wood fired boiler,  I like the idea of it being isolated from the buildings.  We'll see.  A long way down the road at this point.  With new energy standards,  that combo I gave for R ratings might be the new requirement before long. 

Also remember what the soil looks like here.  Digging a bunch of trenches for burying those pipes might be very difficult.  Though if I run electric from where I want,  that would put one trench from the one garage to the other as I go by it to the power source.  If i run water from the well,  right by the house to the shop,  that would provide a trench between those two. 

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It would look nice inside with vertical rough sawn. You don't really need the battens, let there be some gaps, you can always put black plastic or tar paper on the purlins so the gaps will show black if you think it will bothers you and you will have a smoother wall to hang things. If you think a clear coat on natural wood is still to dark use a semi transparent white stain on it.

 

Here is one end of my shop with a similar treatment.

 

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I have alot of windows and will have alot of LED lights so It shouldn't be real dark as alot of guys have caves with no windows. It just wouldn't be as bright as if it was white inside. 

 

The 1 x 12 x 16's I used on the outside were about $10 each from my friend.  The only exception is some of those were water stained but I could tell him they need a clean side because I'm leaving them unfinished.  He would probably accommodate me with that big an order.  That would be about 240 pieces.  If he couldn't do it,  I know alot of other guys saw in the area,  so I should be able to get a similar deal for a big quantity. 

Edited by auburnseeker (see edit history)
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There's info on that stud thermal bridging. i don't think it's that big of a deal. One stud every 16 inches, and the stud is 1.5 inches. So the studs make up only about 9% of the running length of the wall. Studs have a lower R-value, but it's not zero.

 

http://www.rvalue.net/page2.html

 

Approximately 11% of your home is not insulated properly due to wood framing however, wall studs are a fact in home construction. Before you cover up the wall studs, making house insulation diagrams for any future reference is a good idea.

The r-values of wood studs act as a thermal bridge. The r-values of wood can create a cold area in the insulation where the wood stud meets the sheetrock. The cold spots can compromise the insulation and lower the effective average R-values of the whole wall. In addition to the poor r-values of wood lowering the R-values of the wall, a cold spot may lead to condensation problems. Moisture could condense through wall studs, which generally have the lowest insulation r-values, and other framing materials of the home. If moisture does get into the wall cavity, moisture condensation can begin where the cold r-values of wood studs meet the sheetrock.
The r-values of wood wall studs are linear and are measured in terms of inches. However, wood wall studs generally lower the r-values of your insulation.
The r-values of wood are specified as 1.25 per inch.

 

A 2X6 wall studs r values are measured as,
5.5" X 1.25. The r values = 6.875

A 2X4 stud wall studs r-values are measured as,
3.5" X 1.25. The r-values = 4.375

Edited by mike6024 (see edit history)
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I have 2 x8 framing and alot of windows that require alot of headers and of course lots of jack studs so I have probably a higher percentage of thermal bridging.  What I'm not sure but with the size of the headers it could be as much as 15 to 20 percent.  Roxul also carries a higher R value.  I think 6 inches of roxul is a R22 and 8 is R28.  

Not sure how that plugs into the overall equation.  

I know the foam inner shell helps seal everything up better for drafts while still allowing the building to breath to the unheated outside so you aren't as apt to get sweating,  plus the roxul doesn't absorb moisture as much as conventional glass insulation.  

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Is it only me that has this kind of luck?  So I went to shut my garage door this afternoon, before the big storm hits with 30 MPH and up winds, when the garage door wouldn't close.  This is the $4000+ garage door and new $1300 opener with 2 year warranty that was installed less than a year ago and says to service every 5000 cycles.  Can't be on more than about 250 at this point. 

It has been occassionally not wanting to shut but usually did on the second push of the button. I figured it might need lubrication on the rollers and hinges which I did Yesterday. 

I did a bunch of research on the web as when did it act up? About 10 minutes before 5Pm and today is Thanksgiving Eve.  Won't close at all now and a call to the owner of the Garage door company that I bought it from,  yielded no return call, though I called the owner's Cell phone.  I just wanted to pick his brain if nothing else. With diagnosing and a bunch of searches on the Web, Several trips to the garage on the nice wet  as it's pouring out ICY Drive,  I think it's the RPM sensor.  It is doing exactly what the guys online state it will do if the sensor fails.  Closes about 6 inches,  then reverses.  I know I probably should have called the guy when it first did it,  but I figured it was a glitch.  Why should a new unit fail in less than a year.  Especially since it's a Commercial unit?

Of course the only way to get up to the opener was to drop the plow off the tractor, put the Forks on and Clean off my Work platform that goes on the Forks so I had a good workstation and wasn't holding on by my teeth off the extension ladder as the lift is put away for the winter.  

 

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The sensors seem to be working properly and I double checked the alignment. According to the lights on them. (that was my first guess as to what might be wrong)  How do I bypass them completely? 

 

I tried holding the close button as well after reading about that on line,  but it didn't work.  (couldn't have been that easy to bypass it so I could atleast get the thing closed)

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Take the two sensors off the door track and mount them in a way where they are about 2" apart and try the door again. I am assuming you have extra bell wire, and you can mount them anywhere. Then when the door people come back they can set it up again.

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I did go back out this morning after some research on the web.  The sensors seem to have been the culprit.   Though they were showing a solid light they were at the extreme edge of their parameter which even though it showed a solid light it wasn't making enough contact (surprising they could do that)to actually let the door close.  I positioned them so they were closer to center of the lights being steady and it closed right down.  Wish I had tried that last night,  but since I had a solid light I figured it was good.  I actually figured it out from a vide on youtube where a guy said if the sensors move at all they can send a false warning.  When I went to make sure mine were secure I noticed how close to setting the flashing code off they were.   I guess on is on and off is off doesn't apply here and there is a little gray area. Something for everyone to keep in mind if they ever have the same problem. Even though things look fine, reset/aim them.  

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.  I used the door a few times today to be sure and it worked fine. 

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The other thing that I found was with the loss of tree foliage and the different angle of the sun in the fall there is about three weeks that the sun itself overpowers my sensors in the early morning.

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  • 5 months later...

Update on the building please.........what’s next in line. You need to get it finished, lots of us are waiting for the grand opening,,,,,,,

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Right now I'm about 6 hours or so work away from getting my CO.  I need to wrap all the exposed foam for the floor on the foundation with metal.  I already pre bent all the caps and then just use rolled aluminum for the face under the cap.  I'm not quite half way done right now and that was doing the side with the most crap in the way I had to move to do the metal work.  The rest should go faster.  

Today I went and bought flowers for the flower gardens.  We dug up a couple of new gardens so more work ahead to finish those.

After finishing and moving the duck house over from garage scraps I cut all the brush in the swamp behind our house , pulled a bunch of stumps and leveled off a nice area for them to be able to swim in it.  Made them happy.  

The wind finally stopped blowing so I spent yesterday leaf blowing most of the driveway. Remember we had snow a little over a week ago.   I still have the bottom stretch to finish.  The top took a long time as we never got frost before the first snow storm of a foot.  When I plowed I dug the crap out of it and really made a mess of dirt and gravel all down through the grass.  It took alot longer than normal to finish. 

I still have a bunch more to do up here. 

The work is never ending for sure.  Oh then there are the cars to deal with.  As it is I rarely get a chance to do more than look at them. 

Hopefully soon that will change.  

 

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