Ian_Greenlaw

1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration

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Hi David,

A guy names Allan Heywood ( Heywood Enamels ) in Skipton Victoria. Unfortunately he passed away a short time ago. Another excellent tradesman that will be missed. A bit like the guy who did my front windscreen ( Ellis Baron ) all handmade and cannot fault the workmanship.

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Hi Steve.

your dead right. you only get one chance to do things like this and I grab each one.

i guess one reason why I'm restoring my car is that it will outlive me once done and part of me will stay with it.

I suppose I better get on with it.

Ian

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Hi David,

A guy names Allan Heywood ( Heywood Enamels ) in Skipton Victoria. Unfortunately he passed away a short time ago. Another excellent tradesman that will be missed. A bit like the guy who did my front windscreen ( Ellis Baron ) all handmade and cannot fault the workmanship.

Thanks for that Ian. yes it is most unfortunate that many of these master craftsmen are no longer around. I did know about Ellis Baron though. I had a windscreen frame made by him for my fathers 36 Chev roadster many years ago. A superb job.

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Hi Steve.

your dead right. you only get one chance to do things like this and I grab each one.

i guess one reason why I'm restoring my car is that it will outlive me once done and part of me will stay with it.

I suppose I better get on with it.

Ian

I agree with that. Whoever owns it next, hopefully family, will refer to it as Dad's car. As for the outing, you are obviously enjoying it. Did you already own the period dress or did you have to make it?

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Hi Pat,

For school "camps" at Soverign Hill they actually have a full wardrobe area and supply everything. even the pocket watch. I wasn't allowed to wear my normal watch. I also had to interact with the public ( visitors ) and how to all the ladies etc...it was great fun as this is a reproduction full functioning gold mining town. Google Soverign Hill Ballarat and gave a look. While I was there I also gad to make a spoke for a wagon by hand ( needed help with that one ) My daughter had to attend the school there for a few days which nearly killed her because of the strict discipline. ha....I tried it when I got home to no avail !

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Back to the Dodge now its cooling off a bit.

Trial fitted the cowl vent, removed the screen and started to put the opening handle in place. Decided to shorten the screws that hold the screen in place.

Did that and made a little pin the hold the opening lever in position. Shortened it and wire brushed the rough edges with the wire brush wheel.

While I was doing that the vibration through the bench vibrated the finished cowl vent along to the edge and you guessed it, it fell onto the concrete. Bugger.

Took it back to the painter and while I was there borrowed next doors sand blaster to clean up my third tail light assembly.

Came up looking good so I made 2 good ones out of the three I have as two of the lens retention clips were broken off ( rusted I guess ).

Cleaned them up and riveted them in place. Gave them a good coat of etch primer and then some black paint.

Happy with the result.

Now the cowl vent has been repainted I can get on with installing it.

Also bought some black radiator overflow tube I'll use for the drain tube for the cowl vent.

Cheers

Ian

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Ok the moment of truth arrived.

A trial fit of the panels to make sure everything looked and sat properly.

All panels were attached to the body and the new running boards did need some minor adjustment but overall everything sat fairly well.

Ah no....not so simple is it !

When the front bonnet sides were attached the gap is uneven between them and the front of the radiator cowl.

One side sits well and the other has an I 1/4" gap. Cannot move the radiator that much to compensate for it.

We put it up on a hoist and found the measurements between certain points on the chassis were out.

Got it down and ran a string line from the centre of the rear window to the centre of the radiator and its out just over an inch.

Somewhere along the line the car has been in an accident and the chassis is bent. Great !

The guy who is doing the body work has a friend with a hydraulic Ram that can bend it back.

So the chassis and engine are sent off and the chassis corrected.

It never occurred to me to check the measurements as I didn't believe the car had been in an accident.

Anyway the guy who bent the chassis back said it was one of the toughest chassis he's bent....so that's good.

Next step once back is to get all the panels back on again and see how we go.

Cheers

Ian

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Are you going to paint the inside of the lights white or silver for more reflective value?

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That's actually a great suggestion. Even though the originals were just a grey metal colour I have some reflective sheeting I could line the inside with which would make the light more efficient. I even had thought of using LED instead of globes but I haven't found anything yet that would be suitable with a brake and park light in one.

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It is amazing how much just a little bit will help brighten those tail lights. Here in the states, Ron Francis and other suppliers have what they call 'bright bulbs' that put out significantly more CP than the originals, even with 6 volts. I originally put tin foil in mine on my 34 PE sedan and then got some of those reflectors that used to be put behind Christmas lights and used them for years. Finally painted the insides with reflective silver paint. Easy to see now. SMB

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In my youth i worked on a few 30's mopars and anytime we measured the chassis it wasn't unusual to find side shorter than the other .But it wasn't from accident damage,it was often a manufacturing fault. 3/4 - 1" was normal .Years later i read in book, (might have been Tex Smiths Mopar hot rod book) that it was indeed quite common to find this. Unless it is actually bent and you can see the wrinkle it is best to alter the panels to fit.

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Hey Ron,

On close examination there did seem to be some sort of repair, very well repaired that even the body guy had to look twice to see it, on the chassis. So we figured that must have been it. All good though as the panel on a quick refit came within the right gaps we'd hoped for.

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I has a brainstorm after reading your posts about reflective insides of the tail light. I was working on my low voltage outdoor lighting and replacing Dichroic Halogen globes with LED and the spotlights have a reflective cone I have to remove to the LED's will fit.

I got this cone and ground the opening with my Dremel tool and it seems to fit well. I may have to shave a bit off the rim when it goes inside the housing but overall looks ok.

Also picked up the front window frames from the electroplater yesterday. I have two roller buffers that seem to align up with the holes in the frame. Can anyone confirm that these attach to the front door window frames ??

Had a little visitor on our deck handrail. The Kookaburra's are looking for food.

Cheers

Ian

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Nice job on the reflectors. I had been thinking about using reflectors out of old bike lights or torches.

Our kotare (kingfisher) is similar to the kookaburra. They sit on top of something - weather station post, windbreak (6 m high), trees by the beach, etc. - and watch for insects, worms, crabs, small fish and so on. They can spot a small worm in the grass from 15 m or so. They must have the most amazing eye sight. The kotare sit very similarly to that kookaburra when watching. To make a nest, the kotare flies flat-tack into a clay bank repeatedly to make a hole about 30-40 mm diameter.

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I has a brainstorm after reading your posts about reflective insides of the tail light. I was working on my low voltage outdoor lighting and replacing Dichroic Halogen globes with LED and the spotlights have a reflective cone I have to remove to the LED's will fit.

I got this cone and ground the opening with my Dremel tool and it seems to fit well. I may have to shave a bit off the rim when it goes inside the housing but overall looks ok.

Also picked up the front window frames from the electroplater yesterday. I have two roller buffers that seem to align up with the holes in the frame. Can anyone confirm that these attach to the front door window frames ??

Had a little visitor on our deck handrail. The Kookaburra's are looking for food.

Cheers

Ian

Looks like those reflectors will work great! Certainly better than my old Christmas lights ones, although those worked pretty well. On the roller, that does not attach to the frames, it attaches to the door itself, outside of the window frame, and serves as a roller against the vertical divider between the vent window and the main window. When I get home tonight I will shoot you a picture of the installation. SMB

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Hi Scott. There is one half way along the front door but I can't remove that. I'll check it out later today.

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Hi Scott. There is one half way along the front door but I can't remove that. I'll check it out later today.

The outside one seems to be tacked to the door itself the inside one is removable (2 small screws)

I think I posted a picture in these threads with the roller view , I 'll have to check where I posted it.

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How about something like printer paper rollers are made of for the roller?

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ok so there are two rollers. One you can't remove and one you can. the one you can sits up in the air when mounted and covered by the garnish mould or is it mounted inside the opening and all you see is the screw heads and a bit of the roller.

They probably used the vaccum rubber hose in the old days. Great suggestion.

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ok so there are two rollers. One you can't remove and one you can. the one you can sits up in the air when mounted and covered by the garnish mould or is it mounted inside the opening and all you see is the screw heads and a bit of the roller.

They probably used the vaccum rubber hose in the old days. Great suggestion.

Exactly. Roller attaches with sheet metal screws on TOP of the inside door panel, with the roller and shaft hanging down. See attached the one on my 34 PE (with the vacuum hose!).post-89602-143143001472_thumb.jpg

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Not too long ago I acquired a 34 DR 4dr Sedan. I was told at least some of the 33-34 Mopars used wood between the body and frame. Looks like yours had more conventional rubber pads where the body to frame bolts go. Is that correct? Does anyone else know what is correct here, or if coupes or convertibles use wood instead of rubber?

Mine is nearly the same as yours except it has the rear mounted spare instead of side mounts.

Thanks,

Dave

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