Ian_Greenlaw Posted January 11 Author Share Posted January 11 They work a treat ! Sorry I’ve been off the forum for a while. My mum passed away so everything is on the back burner until the dust settles. Funeral is today and it’s suppose to be 38 degrees...... boy, can I pick em ! I’ll be back to it soon Cheers Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doozer Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 Ian, So sorry to hear about your mom. 💐💐💐. Rick in North Carolina Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullfrog_eng Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 Ian, condolences from me as well. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 Sorry to hear about your Mum Ian we’ll be thinking of you today. It is a hot one here today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 Sincere condolences to you and your loved ones Ian We had a 43 in the shade here last Friday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted January 11 Author Share Posted January 11 Thanks guys....long day but doing ok ! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 3 hours ago, Ian_Greenlaw said: Thanks guys....long day but doing ok ! Keep your chin up mate Our thoughts are with you 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lescor Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 Ian: how did you approach the restoration of the “rubber” frame around the rear quarter windows .?? like most, mine is damaged and needs some repairs ., les Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted January 18 Author Share Posted January 18 Hi Les, You mean those damn metal frames which have that damn vulcanised rubber surrounding them that are for those damn rear quarter windows ??? Off and on for eight years I searched for a solution for these things.....they are a s rare as hen's teeth.....only because the water use to sit in them and rust the metal frame out. What I had was that one of my complete frames was in pretty good condition. The guy that organised my glass for the car, I showed him and told him of my plight. At this point I was telling anybody that would listen. He reckoned he could make up a wooden frame to the correct shape to suit the metal frame. He said he would then coat the frame in beeswax ( as a releasing agent ) and then inject polyeurathane into the frame which should give me a decent replicated rubberised frame. I said, well nothing ventured nothing gained. So I "gave" him my good frame ( praying that he wouldn't lose it ), and heard nothing for a number of months. I got this phone call saying that he had my fame ready and could he drop by. Well bugger me, it looked new ! Cost me like $250 but I reckon given the level of stress finding something like that it was worth every cent. Some guys I know instead of going down this track, got some rear window rubber and a piece of glass cut to shape, and basically made theirs into a fixed window. Hope this helps.... Cheers Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted February 5 Share Posted February 5 How are you going Ian just checking in to see your ok. The Dodge is probably the last thing on your mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted February 6 Author Share Posted February 6 Hey mate, Thanks for the follow up. It’s stressing me out not working on the car. doing ok.....just so much to do...... Trying to get back to it. I really wanted to finish the car and take mum for a drive in it. Never mind....back to it ASAP. cheers 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted February 6 Author Share Posted February 6 After a bit of advice. Thinking of selling my Dodge Passenger Car Master Parts List Volume 2 Book. This is an original and not a reprint. Really good condition for its age and no scribbling inside. Obviously suit someone with just Volume 1 i guess. I've never had Volume 1 and I've seen both books go for $300. Do you think $150 is a fair price ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted March 10 Author Share Posted March 10 Ok, so back on the car now we've got a lot of my mum's estate sorted. I didn't want to pay a solicitor to do the probate so I did it myself....its actually quite easy with step by step instructions on the supreme court website. ( anyone in Oz that has to go through the same process its worth a look ) Soooo....finished readjusting the rear brakes, cleaned up the pistons and bolted everything back on. I used my nifty little brake adjustment tool I got from a guy in the States. Now I have to redo the front brakes and bleed them. Started back on the interior. I recut the patterns myself and gave them to the upholsterer. This is only temporary but the rear garnish molds fit a lot better now the panels have been remade. At lot of adjustments to go, but getting there. I've tried contacting the guy who is redoing the rope at the rear of the front seat as well as the passenger assist straps but can't get hold of him. He has my original chrome plated ends for all these so I'm just hoping he's still there. More progress soon I hope ! Cheers Ian 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 Those surrounds look really nice and very well done. Love the colours of your interior Ian. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted March 11 Author Share Posted March 11 Thanks Matt, Tried to keep it in with the year of the car. Wish I had the drive and experience you have with the cars. I'm aiming at trying to finish mine mid this year but see how we go. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 Hey Ian, thanks for an update on the brake adjustment tool. Glad it worked out. I shipped the tool to you last May. It's from Canada! Lol. Good work on the restoration. Cheers Mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted March 14 Author Share Posted March 14 Hey thanks Keith. Yeah both rear brakes I've used it and now I'll do the front as well. Both this tool and brake spring tool make a job I was dreading a lot easier to deal with. Cheers Ian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lescor Posted May 14 Share Posted May 14 Ian .. any suggestions about removing the front shocks .. and .. doing a rebuild .. ? my car is shaping up .. turning my attention the the brakes and suspension hood all is ok .. les 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 23 Author Share Posted May 23 Hi Les, Sorry been off the forum for a while. Too mant things to sort out here...so far this year either family or friends, 6 have passed away now......now I've been through the process myself I'm helping other people with the paperwork. My front shocks were rebuilt when I bought the car so I didn't need to do them. One of the other guys on the forum might chime in and assist with this one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 23 Author Share Posted May 23 Finally getting back to the Dodge now. Fitted the two rear door garnish moulds in place. Interesting that one side where the screws go has threaded holes and the other side had plain holes. I had to order some Stainless Steel Metal Threads ( Slotted Round Head Countersunk ) and the same with self tapping screws, so now I've got that sorted its on with the door and window winder handles. This is going to sound like a noobie question but which way does the springs behind the escutcheon plate go ?....I'm having a senior moment and for the life of me I'm just not sure. Promise I'll keep going now ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted May 23 Share Posted May 23 Looks absolutely beautiful Ian. 👌 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullfrog_eng Posted May 23 Share Posted May 23 Ian, I asked the same question re my DA. I THINK the springs go as you have shown them, but I had hoped someone could confirm that. Certainly looking good! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullfrog_eng Posted May 23 Share Posted May 23 Had a phone call from a mate who misunderstood what I meant (it happens a lot!!!). This may help. This is the way I THINK it goes. And again, if anyone can confirm or otherwise, that would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted May 23 Share Posted May 23 Bullfrog, I am agreeing with your guess on the springs. But have not found proof. This way gives the most support to door panel. Ian, your garnish moldings look great as does the rest of the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 23 Author Share Posted May 23 Thanks guys, much appreciated support there. These little things certainly take a lot of time I must say. Just trying to understand...what benefit does the spring have behind the door card ? I'd have to remove the garnish moulds again so trying to avoid it if I can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin bc Posted May 23 Share Posted May 23 Ian The spring keeps the pressure on the door card as it presses against the little triangular tags on the etrushion (Spelling is bad), which stops it from turning with the winder or door handle, and cutting grooves in the material as the handles operate, basically there to stop the etruschions turning.When you assemble the door handles you have to press the etruschions into the materiel to make 4 little slits for the etruschion pins to stick into, making sure they are pointing in the correct position if like mine on the Dodge 8 they are sqaurish in nature and only fit in one position, if they are round position doesn't matter. The result of not having them there is that over time you may get the etruschions turning and cutting through the material, especially the drivers door which gets more use. Mine were 70+ yrs old when pulled apart and the etruschions where still where they were put when the car was built Kevin BC Kevin BC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullfrog_eng Posted May 23 Share Posted May 23 Ian, as Kevin says, but you may be able to work them in through the holes that you have for the handle/winders by "winding" them in. They need to push the fabric/leather against the escutcheon which in turn presses against the winder/handle so it is all tight with no gaps. In theory the springs should be fitted before/as the door cards are fitted, but you may be lucky. My DA is at the motor trimmer at the moment but I have tried with my old door cards and I recon I would be able to get the springs in through the holes if I had to. The holes in the door cards need to be large enough for the springs to poke trough the door cards and bear on the fabric/leather though. Gee, I hope I have explained this OK. Have added a photo of one of my old door cards, this is the door side, fabric is on the other side but you can see where it is folded over onto the back where the A is. Good luck. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 24 Author Share Posted May 24 Thanks for the time taken to answer this, its really appreciated. Something I thought would be a breeze is turning out to be a headache. I just had this sinking feeling that the upholsterer hasn't made the holes to take the springs !....I'll have to check. I think I have an original door panel at home so I'll check that out too. Funny thing is I thought the spring went the other way and the smaller part of the spring went inside the escutcheon...it fits really well ! I'll keep playing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin bc Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 Ian Whilst on this topic of door handle springs, I also came across a situation with mine created by todays changes to re trimming of our old cars. You would have found when taking the trim apart that the card they used back then was only about 1mm cardboard, with some wadding and the material or leather over that. However the trimmers of today like to use thin board of about 2-4mm as the backing, which gives a nice solid backing ,and a beautiful smooth flat finish of the door panels. This is where the problem can occur, you need a certain depth of free moving area on your mechanism stalk to push the etruschion in towards the door to drop the pin in to secure the handles. In my case you have the thickness of etruschion (10mm), new door panel(4-5mm), and spring in compressed state(4mm),around about19mm you need to be able to move etruschion in to drop the pin in to secure the handle. My old panel was only 2mm thick not 5mm like the new one, so I lost 3mm of movement along the shaft, and couln't get the pins in. After pondering the problem for a few days and many attempts to get those little pins in, and breaking out one of the pin holes in a handle , I succeded by taking the panel off, and on the back of the panel around the holes ground out a circle with a Dremmel grinder to the size of the spring diameter(large end), and took about 3mm of the material out of the board, leaving enough to hold the pressure of the spring . This allowed me to push everthing back about an extra 3mm towards the door which then gave me enough room to drop the pin in to secure the handle. I found using a small diameter long shank punch made inserting the pin easier. I guess if you use thin backing or get your trimmer to use thin backing, then there wont be a problem, but I thought the potential problem just needs to be bought to peoples attention, as it wasted a lot of my time finding a solution Kevin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 24 Author Share Posted May 24 Thanks Kevin, Funny I was just thinking to myself ....I wonder if the door card is the same thickness ? Then your info just popped up. I'm sure when I was working on my old Holden the larger part of the spring sat against the door and the smaller part sat inside the Escutcheon. This is so odd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin bc Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 Ian Your last few words prompted me to go and pull my old door skins out of their hidyhole - new I kept them for a reason. I can now say for certain the big end goes towards the handle , as you can see in the picture a large imprint in the cardboard, also note that they have cutout some of the cardboard thickness ,I guess for the same reason I talked about above. Picture 349 is a rear door, looks like they cut out all the cardboard to get it to fit, and the other photos have part of the cardboard cutout on a front door. The orig cardboard was thicker than what I remembered. Just to add something else I have also kept most of the old timber from my 1930 DC8 Tourer, if anyone ever finds another DC8 Tourer and needs a pattern, it may be in my shed Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 24 Author Share Posted May 24 Hi Kevin, So the larger end of the spring sits behind the door fabric / leather....i.e. doesn't protrude through the material.....it only goes through the door panel. Hope this is making sense ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin bc Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 Ian I might have confused the issue with those two photos, the rear panel with the wadding shown through has had the backing cut away, so as you say the spring would have rested against the material/leather and kept the material/leather pressed against the etruschion . I don't think this is how it was intended.I think they did this to get the clearance to get the pin in the hole easily.It shouldn't have been done that way. Motor trimmer taking shortcuts. It should be as in the top photo where you can see the spring was resting on the backing cardboard which would then push the cardboard/material/leather against the etruschion. If you look at the etruschion the points on the circumference should be big enough to pierce the material and into the cardboard to stop them turning , if there is no cardboard there the etruschion would not hold in the material, and would finish up turning with the handle. This way you have the max force pressing back against the etruschion. ie spring, cardboard,and material/leather. Its quite hard to get the tags of the etruschion to pierce the leather/material/cardboard, so I actually maked the spots and made 4 little incisions through the leather into the backing with a Stanley knife to make sure they would pierce the leather and card to lock into place. Its funny how a little spring can make so much conversation, its no wonder we can make a restoration last for years, Matts the exception I reckon Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 24 Author Share Posted May 24 I'll post a photo when I get home if I still have my original panel. I may have given it to the upholesterer. Matts the cause of countless people having countless sleepless nights !.....lol.........I wish I had his stills, time and patience ( don't get a big head Matt ). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 24 Author Share Posted May 24 So Kevin, from what you are saying, The hole really doesn't have to be that big.....only enough to get the window winder and door opener square bit through. So the spring is pushing everything else inwards towards the inside of the car ? I think I'm going to have a sleepless night thinking about this one......It's Matt's fault ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullfrog_eng Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 Not sure they are all done the same, but with the DA, the spring definitely passes through the door card and presses the wadding and (in my case) fabric against the escutcheon, that is, the hole in the door card is roughly the size of the spring. I recon, though, that I have seen others done as Kevin says. Be interesting to see if you still have one of your old ones that can tell us. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullfrog_eng Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 Just had a look at my 1936 DeSoto (Richards body) out of interest and the large end of the spring presses against the door card and does not pass through it, so only a small hole needed. What does all this mean? Maybe depends on the flexibility of the door card you are using. I think I would prefer to press on the door card if you can get away with it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 Bullfrog, that is correct. And as stated it's all Matt's fault. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 4 hours ago, Ian_Greenlaw said: I'll post a photo when I get home if I still have my original panel. I may have given it to the upholesterer. Matts the cause of countless people having countless sleepless nights !.....lol.........I wish I had his stills, time and patience ( don't get a big head Matt ). I’m taking no responsibility for anyone’s sleepless nights my beautiful wife blames me for all her sleepless nights already. Apparently I snore but I’ve never heard it. 😂🤣 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin bc Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 Ian Found this drawing for a Chev Seville on the net, I think it was. the offical US name for those springs is "Handle Tension Spring", In its modern form on this vehicle the spring is doing the same as our cars by keeping the door panel and crank handle washer pressed up against the handle,so not much has changed in 70-80 years on some parts of a car. Kevin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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