1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Thanks again Kevin. That actually makes it really clear.

I went out but the old door cards are gone. What the upholsterer has done is on the card, cut a reallylarge circular hole for the window winder and a tiny hole for the door lock....I can't win :(.....I may have to support the window winder hole somehow.

 

Oh well....keep plodding along.

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Heres an interesting pic...........

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Check out the spring direction.....hmmmmm

[Bullfrog_eng]

Will be really interested how you get on. I am still probably a couple of weeks away from putting this into practice for myself. I have been giving it a lot of thought, but it is the doing that counts.

[Kevin bc]

Ian

I reckon that means "Take your pick" or one is LH drive & the other is RH Drive

Kevin

[Kevin bc]

Ian

I guess there are a few IFs here, with regards to the springs being through the backing card

 

If you have leather then the spring resting on the leather is unlikely to show through the leather, and cause any unsightly ring around the door handle.

If you have material lining then the spring against the material would likely show through the material as a prominent ring around the handle.

If you have round etruchions then you might not see any ring, depending on the diameter of the etruchion

If you have rectangular etruchions as I do then then you would likely see some of the ring  either side of the etruchion sides.

Kevin

[Ian_Greenlaw]

And to top it off I have a large hole on the window winder and a small hole on the door opener......just to confuse me further.

[knobless]

On 9/17/2013 at 5:00 PM, 1936 D2 said:

My 1936 car was an un-molested original when I first got it in 1983. (I am the third owner and know the full owner history). The car's top did not have a gasket that was apparent on the outside. The original application for the steel insert top on the '36 was very much like Ian showed in post #445. It has an inner simple rubber gasket and then the top seam was filled with a flowing sealer. The final effect was that the sealed area was either flat with the top surfaces or actually dipped inward just a bit. The over all idea being that water would flow off the top and not get backed up behind a thicker gasket that was sticking up from the surface area.

So, in other words, I do not think that the gasket style that "knobless" showed is correct for the later insert tops like the '36's steel insert top. That thicker gasket style MAY have been associated with the prior cloth insert tops (1935 and earlier - and also the 1936 7 passenger sedan "Limo") but I have no first hand knowledge of that fact.

(Sorry for the hi-jack Ian).

--- 1936 Steel Insert Top Sealer. --- 1936 Cloth Insert Top Gasket.

 

Here is the seal for 36 Dodge/ Plymouth steel insert tops, 1 piece takes the place of rubber washers found under the insert too, fits extremely well, sold many,,,,,

 

Edited June 20, 2021 by knobless (see edit history)

[rageracing]

I was wondering what are you going to use for dust shield between the trans and the top crossmember.  Need to get something for mine 

[knobless]

30 minutes ago, rageracing said:

I was wondering what are you going to use for dust shield between the trans and the top crossmember.  Need to get something for mine 

Cant picture what your talking about?  A top” dust shield, I have the bottom one, 

 

[knobless]

On 5/23/2021 at 7:05 AM, Bullfrog_eng said:

Had a phone call from a mate who misunderstood what I meant (it happens a lot!!!).

This may help. This is the way I THINK it goes. And again, if anyone can confirm or otherwise, that would be appreciated.

 

Spring goes behind esconshion “ and against fabric

 

[rageracing]

The dust cover that goes between the opening and the trans and the bottom of where the shifter goes.  

[rageracing]

They each have a ring where it would have centered on 

[knobless]

1 minute ago, rageracing said:

They each have a ring where it would have centered on 

Yes, correct two piece top cover, you have both pieces? Then you just missing the rubber boot, cup,,,

[rageracing]

17 minutes ago, knobless said:

Yes, correct two piece top cover, you have both pieces? Then you just missing the rubber boot, cup,,,

Not sure what you mean by two piece top cover.  Both rings looked to be stamped into the trans and crossmember.  The top of the trans is two pieces if that’s what you mean.  Anywhere to source the rubber boot and cups?  Thanks! 

[knobless]

11 hours ago, rageracing said:

Not sure what you mean by two piece top cover.  Both rings looked to be stamped into the trans and crossmember.  The top of the trans is two pieces if that’s what you mean.  Anywhere to source the rubber boot and cups?  Thanks! 

Smaller cover piece is under the dust it looks in your picture, as for other dust covers, there is none, mines been broken down from original, and going back the same as for boot, you have 2 small one that goes onto shifter, and interior “ Finish” boot that goes over interior carpet, as for source, Andy Bernbaum,  maybe moparpro ?

 

 

Edited July 4, 2021 by knobless
Added photo (see edit history)

[ply33]

I used a short length of radiator hose which had an ID large enough to fit over the locating rings. Seems to do the job of keeping gunk out of the transmission and while radiator hose is not designed for oil/gear lube contact seems to be holding up okay for this last twenty years.

[knobless]

4 hours ago, ply33 said:

I used a short length of radiator hose which had an ID large enough to fit over the locating rings. Seems to do the job of keeping gunk out of the transmission and while radiator hose is not designed for oil/gear lube contact seems to be holding up okay for this last twenty years.

Looking for throw out bearing spring, any sources?

[knobless]

Sometimes the remedy is only a question away, dust shield for trans, my option/ remedy/ product,  first pictures of seal, 3rd photo seal “ sandwiched” between trans and crossmember with shift bar accesss,,,,making them for all interested,,,,also waterproof”””

Edited July 7, 2021 by knobless (see edit history)

[rageracing]

27 minutes ago, knobless said:

Sometimes the remedy is only a question away, dust shield for trans, my option/ remedy/ product,  first pictures of seal, 3rd photo seal “ sandwiched” between trans and crossmember with shift bar accesss,,,,making them for all interested,,,,

I’ll buy 2 if you have them, my 33 pickup needs one too.

[knobless]

5 minutes ago, rageracing said:

I’ll buy 2 if you have them, my 33 pickup needs one too.

$5 ea plus shipping, need location, but will ship cheapest way I can,,,,,

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Sorry I've been off the forum for a while, a lot of things going on as well as leading up to the end of financial year.

We run a small internet business from home as well as working which has exploded during Corona so I've had to get another storage shed built.

I'm not building it but wiring, finishing and painting all takes a long time.

here's a few shots. Its basically double the floor space of the shed next to it.

For those that love a bit of detail........notice the dog kennel in the forth photo.....he has his own deck and porch light.

This weekend coming I'll be back on the Dodge, I promise !

[knobless]

Sorry to hear of your Mom passing Ian, love the added carpentry handy work, work has slowed to a crawl on mine, also, very busy with working, just hit the big “ 65” but still pushing always need more cash for the hobby, Hoping all else is well, keep at it, you have passed on a lot of knowledge with your restoration Thread, Thank you!

 

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Thanks Steve,

Still sorting out Estate items which will go on for another 12 months I think.

I will get the car finished.....mines now not about money.....everything has been paid for, but more so time.....never enough !!

Sometimes I get home after work and I'm absolutely buggered.....I think I'm wearing out.

I'll be back to the car this week so still pushing along.

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Been a while since I've posted mainly due to Covid lockdowns and end of financial year and Estate Returns etc.... think there's light at the end of the tunnel.

 

I've been slowly having to redo all the brakes due to the poor car sitting so long everything has locked up. Finished the back ones and started on the front. Found that my nifty brake adjustment arm tool was too short. Pinched a bracket we use at work ( we call the boomerangs ) and modified it to suit. Actually worked out quite well.

When I finally was able to get the pistons out of the brake cylinder it wasn't a very nice colour. Cleaned them up and repolished the pistons.

Adjusted the brakes so now all 4 are done. Couldn't work out why the brake shoes weren't pulling back in place. Checked the bolts were in ok and then looked up and realised I hadn't put the spring back on. I went inside and had a cup of coffee !

All I need is my brother to help bleed them ( which I can't do due to lockdown ). You can see why this is so frustrating. Before I put the wheel back on I refed the horn wire so now this should drop the voltage down to 6volts per horn and shouldn't overload the wiring.

I've been trying to contact the guy whos doing the rope finishing of the passenger assist straps and the cord that mounts behind the front seat but he never returnes my calls. Finally got hold of him ( as he has some of my original parts ) and he said he'd send me some photos. Still waiting !! I need these to finish of some of the interior as these chrome fitting hold a part of the interior panel in place.

[Mattml430]

Looking good mate hopefully we’ll be past all these lockdowns soon and we can go on a rally or 2. 

[Ian_Greenlaw]

If I ever get mine finished......hopefully I'm still alive by then !

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Righto chaps,

Cast your minds back to when I posed the question of the springs for the interior door handles.

Ok so today I bit the bullet....its taken a long time, trust me.

First I checked the spring and the escutcheon plate for fit. Found the spring was slightly too large in diameter.

Applied a bit of heat and gently nudged them to make the end a bit smaller.

( didnt take a photo as cant hold a blow torch, spring and phone or the garage would have caught on fire )

Removed the garnish mould and then the upholstered panel.

Lay the upholstered panel on a clean cloth and sat the springs over the holes and marked location with a pen.

Using a small chisel gently tapped around the full circle ( chisel tapped a bit hard and went through with a small slit which will be hidden by the escutcheon plate thankfully ! )

Ran my finger around in the inside to seperate the padding from the backing board. Second hole I used a tongue depresser to protect the leather.

Using vice grips I broked the chiseled board away and neatened it up with a broken hachsaw blade I had which did the job perfectly.

Checked both springs for fit.

Slightly opened the small end of the spring and rolled onto the black plastic on the inside of the door which held them in place.

Reinstalled the upholstered panel and you can see it bulging.

Installed the window winder and door opener handles and reinstalled the garnish mould.

I did do a dry run of the handles to make sure they all fitted properly. Glad I did as the retaining pin was too long and had to be cut down slightly.

1 down and three to go

[Mattml430]

It’s going to look absolutely beautiful Ian your doing an amazing job. 
 

I love that upholstery work. 

[knobless]

Just a quick question, when I remove my door panels the springs had the smaller ends facing the interior, the larger ends rested against the window and door mechanisms, hummmmmmm

[knobless]

Edited October 16, 2021 by knobless
Pictures (see edit history)

[knobless]

Some frontward some backward hummm your way makes more sense, someone must have had the panels off before me, I’m sure,,,, nice job Ian,,,,

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Hi Steve,

Its weird, I know. Have a look at the schematic at the top of page 31 of this thread. One spring is one way and the other spring is the other way.

You right though, what confused me is that the narrow part of the spring fits perfectly in the inside of the escutcheon plate.

I think the way I did it puts less strain on the lining material as the tension is spread more evenly with the wider part of the spring.

 

[wangwilko]

Hi  Ian, love your work. Just jumping back a bit, where did you get the brake alignment tool from or did you make one up?

I am in Auz and doing a 1936 Desoto.

Peter

[Kevin bc]

Ian

Kevin BC here,

Just reading up you latest bits and pieces about the window handles and springs, and all things Dodgey, and came across the tool you built to set the brake linings, I have attached a page from my 1930 DC Dodge 8 handbook about setting the brake linings.

The linings do not have the same clearance all the way round the wheel, the bottom basically is fixed,  once you have set the clearance, but the top varies as the brakes are applied, so this causes more movement at the top, and a smaller movement at the bottom, so a 12thou gap at the top and a 6 thou gap at the bottom is stated. If you have the same gap top and bottom, you will finish up with linings that wear

thinner at the top and less or no wear at the bottom. This would also mean only 1/2 the lining would be in good contact with the drum, until the brakes bed in

In pulling brakes to bits you might have come across uneven thickness of linings, and wondered why they had worn like that, well it is because they were installed with the same gap all the way round.

 

Looking at your tool you can still use it to set them up with two different clearances, you will just have to do it two times with the different clearances, the job just becomes a bigger PAIN.

 

When I pulled my brakes apart, the linings were worn uneven, worn out at the top, and plenty of meat at the bottom, on a couple of the wheels, now I know why, but it took me 40 years to find out, and I spent days setting new ones  up , as I used 2 diff size feeler gauges top & bottom poking them through the adjusting holes in my drums. Dont' know what year Dodges had the small holes in the drums that a feeler guage fits through to set the clearances, but it sure helped to get the gaps right. Don't know how you would set them if the drums don't have the access hole to put the feeler gauges through. The hole is about 1/2 long with a screwed on plate covering it, just big enough to get a feeler gauge in

Hope this info is of use  to many people in the future

 

regards

Kevin BC

[ply33]

4 hours ago, Kevin bc said:

. . .

Looking at your tool you can still use it to set them up with two different clearances, you will just have to do it two times with the different clearances, the job just becomes a bigger PAIN. . .

 

If his tool is set for the smaller clearance then he can set the larger clearance at the same time by having a feeler gauge between the tool and the shoe.

 

I am lucky to have picked up an AMMCO 1750 tool a long time ago. Even with that tool, I find it easier to set it once for the smaller clearance then use a feeler gauge to set the larger clearance.

 

Yikes! I just did a quick search on AMMCO 1750 and am astounded at the asking prices I am seeing. Maybe I ought to move mine out of the garage and into a safety deposit box.

[knobless]

4 hours ago, ply33 said:

 

If his tool is set for the smaller clearance then he can set the larger clearance at the same time by having a feeler gauge between the tool and the shoe.

 

I am lucky to have picked up an AMMCO 1750 tool a long time ago. Even with that tool, I find it easier to set it once for the smaller clearance then use a feeler gauge to set the larger clearance.

 

Yikes! I just did a quick search on AMMCO 1750 and am astounded at the asking prices I am seeing. Maybe I ought to move mine out of the garage and into a safety deposit box.

Just bought one $100, did the adjustment and now? How often do you need shoes, may rent mine out,HAHA

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Great info guys.....love this forum as you never know whats going to be posted and see ideas and info other people have.

 

Peter....this is where I got that brake tool from :

 

 

 

[Ian_Greenlaw]

It has a video of him using it so you can see if its right for you. I found that the arm wasn't long enough for the front brakes so I made a matching arm.

[Ian_Greenlaw]

So I've been looking at some way to get the passenger assist straps made to resemble the original ones ( which were non existent in my car )

Now here is where the problem lies.....there are so many different variations its confusing.

What you might see in a brochure and what are in cars are two different things.

As one member pointed out there were often 8 to 10 companies making different things for cars and they were chopped and changed depending on who they used at the time.

I had some new chrome "mounts/holders" which we used.

So using a bit of poetic licence, I got some fabric tube ( from my leather supplier ) and found a guy who does ship rigging.  A wooden ball ( that we sell as a business in Australia ) and another wooden peg stand ( that we also sell ) and working with him with pictures of numerous styles in cars we came up with this....I can trim the bottom to suit or leave it as it is. The next job is the rope travel rug holder that sits behind and mounted to the back of the front seat.