Ian_Greenlaw

1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration

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Hi Ian I'm back on forum it's been a while ! And I'm pretty much sorted the 2 gear jumping out when on de-cell it was end play on main shaft ,while it's apart trying to find another synchro ring or assembly it's a T86 with R6 overdrive.

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Steve,

Here are a few shots of the engine bracket. I actually have 3 of them. One on the car and two spares. The one on the car has the little "plaque" and the other two are stamped on it. Don't know if this was an export thing but it had the holes drilled for it.

The other photo is of my "spares" that came with the car....if you need something, just ask and I'll have a look.

Cheers

Ian

Hi Ian

Finally got around to swapping window channel, re-cut notches and re-drill pin to line up with locking arm, everything works great and the roller fits as it should and works too, thanks again for the channel, let me know if you need anything.....

Still fiddeling with aprons ,, the more I look at the ones I have they are really not that bad after cleaning up, I may just repair them, less work anywhoo...

Steve

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Hi guys,

Window channel looks good, glad I could help. glad to see your lever etc are pitted too.........and I thought it was just mine !!!. I'm still getting my too front frames back to some reasonable order. Mine were very pitted around the corners. also waiting on the chroming guy to finish my rear bumper, everything else is done so as soon as that arrives I can fit it. My window glass guy came over the other day and he's tweeting the rear window rubber he made for me, and again once done I can fit into the car. I've started with a bailey channel I bought and hopefully I'll get one fitted this weekend among a million other jobs I have to do. I'll post some pics when done.

Tony, glad to see your alive.......I keep looking at the rear window.....what a fit !!

Cheers

Ian

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Allrighty then,

Still plodding along.

I'm tackling the windows in the rear door at the moment. I've had the glass made and I removed the original glass from one of the channels and I couldn't believe the amount of much I got from it.

Cleaned up and painted the channel as well as both window winders and installed both window winders after applying some new grease. Also bent the bailey channel to suit. Its one thing getting the glass in but then to get the Bailey Channel in, in one piece is proving to be a bit of a task. Looks good once its in but still having trouble getting it in when the glass is already in there. Must be a trick to it.

I think my rear bumper will be ready Thursday so going over to pick it up.

Cheers

Ian

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Hey all,

Went and picked up my rear bumper from the platers yesterday. Also my new bumper bar bolts had sitting here a while so buffed them up. Mounted the irons in place then for once everything bolted according to plan ! I also picked up the two rear tail light housings that he double copper dipped so now I can start working on these as well. I also anchored the rear window and using black polyeurathane I put some in the channel and aligned it up. I did cut about 1/4" off each end of the channel so it won't catch on the bailey channel when installed. Overall not a bad days work !

Cheers

Ian

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Hey all,

A few more small steps done.

My wife sewed the covers that go over the door lock arms, I guess they were to stop vibration rattles or if they ever touched the glass wouldn't rattle. Also cleaned out the second rear door channel, primed and painted. Its now mounted on the glass with polyeurathane and drying. Did a bit more work on the taillights but still have a long way to go. With the help of my brother we finally got the Bailey Channel in the rear door with the glass in. Now all I have to do if fix it in place then start on the other side.

Cheers

Ian

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Sorry guys its been a while since I posted and have been working furiously on the car trying to get it finished but looks like the finances took a hit and it will hopefully be next year.

The next phase was to hand strip the body panels of all paint. It was suggested I do the outside but hand which is a lot gentler, but the undersides I should get them bead blasted. So commenced the entire body of painting with paint stripper and using a "strip and clean" disc on a polishing machine I was able to do a reasonable job. I used a wire wheel in a drill to get into the hard and tricky areas. One interesting this was that after nearly 80 years, not one spec of rust in the doors. The other problem I had was that the rear of the car was belted in as through whoever drove it last regularly reversed into everything they could find. This would have to be replaced once at the body shop. I actually enjoyed the stripping as you could see the weld seams and the car actually became to look a consistent colour ( polished steel ). I then coated the bare steel with WD40 to prevent rusting. I did uncover some rust areas in the lower cowl and wheel arches but nothing major at this point.

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Oh I found these photos of the rear section and you can see what I mean't that someone reversed into things ! Maybe the reverse camera ( wife ) wasn't working ! ha

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As little kid in New Zealand I remember seeing people reversng Prewar cars by leaning out the drivers door,hanging onto the wheel and moving backwards,I haven't seen anyone use that technique for decades .On early American cars it was the only to see behind you because of the small back window. Looking at that damage, someone has been looking out the back by peering out the drivers window ....and hit something on the passenger side.

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It is more noticeable on the passenger side isn't it. The hole where the rear bumper bolt goes through was completely torn open which probably explains why the rear bumper looks a little worse for wear and the bumper irons are bent upwards.

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That dented area reminds me of the tail pans on '35 Chevys which are always banged up. I'm sure you'll ping and ding that back to mirror smooth. Keep at 'er. Wonderful job.

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Ok, so after I finished all the panels I took one load at a time to the sandblaster to get the inside of all panels blasted and etch primed. I didn't take many shots of the panels but have a nice one of the inside of the main body ( before and after ). The blasting did reveal some rusted areas that require repair so when I send it off to the body guy we'll attack each one in turn.

Cheers

Ian

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Bit more progress, got the bonnet back from the body shop which had to have a bit of mild work done to it so I temporarily fitted the new hinge that I got on Ebay and even without the paint it came up looking really nice. A this point also I sent off the steering wheel to a company that specialises in them. They put a very faint smoke in it but happy with the result.

Cheers

Ian

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Hey all,

Finally got the Bailey Channel fitted into place.

The steps I used were as follows incase anyone is interested and tackles this.

First using polyeurathane, glue the window to the channel bar making sure the bar and the window are the right way around.

Once dried and using the glass as a template and with both hands, SLOWLY bend the bailey channel to suit. Once this is done you can then insert this in the door and check for the correct length. Remove and set aside.

Remember to put low adheasive masking tape around the painted surface of the door window opening.

Grease the winding mechanism and attach to the inside of the door.

Then wind the winder up so the arm is protruding above the opening in the door.

Next insert the window and glass assembly into the winder arm that is protruding above the opening in the door and gently proceed to wind the window down inside the door while holding and centering it on the way down.

Next insert the Bailey Channel and again gently push evenly down the sides of the glass into the supporting metal channels in the door. Now these will catch at the top of the channels so you will need to tease these into the top of the supporting metal channels. I was able to access this point through the door lock tongue hole in the side of the door. I used a nifty little plastic trim tool from a set I bought on ebay for about $10.

Once the channel has been lowered I again used these tools to gently open up a space between the bailey channel and the door frame so I could put in some dabs of polyeurathane.

Once this is done and pushing the bailey channel so the stainless steel beed aligns up with the door frame I then used 3 quick release clamps to keep one side in place.

This stuff takes approx. a week to reach full strength so you have to wait.

Repeat for the top of the door and then the other side.

After all three have been done and all clamps removed, remove the tape, clean the window and the end result looks pretty good.

It is a long time to wait for each side but I think the end result is worth it.

Also I retapped the holes for the door handle attaching screws as with cleaning, painting etc these were full of muck.

Hope you found this interesting.

Cheers

Ian

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Slight amendment to above. Put the door lock in prior to the bailey channel and after the window otherwise you can't get it around the channel once it's in.....bugger !!!! I learnt the hard way. Had to pull the bottom of the channel out and slip it in that way.

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Hey all,

A few more small steps done.

My wife sewed the covers that go over the door lock arms, I guess they were to stop vibration rattles or if they ever touched the glass wouldn't rattle. Also cleaned out the second rear door channel, primed and painted. Its now mounted on the glass with polyeurathane and drying. Did a bit more work on the taillights but still have a long way to go. With the help of my brother we finally got the Bailey Channel in the rear door with the glass in. Now all I have to do if fix it in place then start on the other side.

Cheers

Ian

Hi Ian, sent out your lens, also got around to getting some pictures of aftermarket tail light springs and housing install, its a little involved to do but when complete you have all new springs,

As in pictures, 1 each side 1 at bottom holds lens nice and snug,,, bought the replacement off Countrytraveler" Dave, CA. they are made for different model but I was able to adapt them to fit 34 Dodge,,,,

Alligator clip just to hold in place ran out of small nut/bolts.....

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Hi all,

Steve, thanks for that and let me know what I owe you. The insides of those tail lights look new....as always you do a great job !

I haven't been sitting around....I've actually finished 2 rear door including handles. I must say holding a handle does have a nice feel about it. Both rear door locks are in place as are the windows and winders. I haven't put the striker plates on yet as I'm constantly opening and closing the doors.

Had one slight hiccup. The left side rear wind out window all of a sudden developed a chip in it near the top. Just when I thought I was home and hosed with the wind out windows. Never mind, two steps forward and one step back !

Cheers

Ian

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Hi All,

I shipped all the panels to the body shop now that all the grinding and blasting has been completed. The first job tackled was the banged up area at the rear of the car. The inner panel had to be cut away and repaired and while that was off the banged up area was cut and a new piece made ( well above my pay grade to do this type of work ! ). Ive posted a before and after shot. The was also a hole in the middle of the rear of the car probably used for the rear spare tyre mount and mine had a push in plug. This was removed and steel filled.

Also some of the rust in the rear wheel wells was cut out and repaired. Another interesting thing was the wells for the spare wheels in the front guards. When he lifted the guard up it fell on the ground. We decided to put extra welds on both sides just in case. Imagine driving down the road and the spare tyre in the front guard giving way !

Rust also in the cowl at the front had to be repaired. There were also a few sections in side the car that needed repairing.

I was sort of running a relay at this point where once a panel was repaired I took it to the painter who put a protective coating on it in a two pack primer and then I returned it back to the body shop and it was put into storage until all panels were completed so he could do a temporary trial fitting.

Cheers

Ian

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Hi Ian, sent out your lens, also got around to getting some pictures of aftermarket tail light springs and housing install, its a little involved to do but when complete you have all new springs,

As in pictures, 1 each side 1 at bottom holds lens nice and snug,,, bought the replacement off Countrytraveler" Dave, CA. they are made for different model but I was able to adapt them to fit 34 Dodge,,,,

Alligator clip just to hold in place ran out of small nut/bolts.....

3rd photo, completed upgrade to new lens springs, these are from Dave: "countrytraveler" adapted to fit 1934 Dodge, now I just have to find correct lens all 33/34 Plymouth are not correct size must be another 1 year" fit for 34 Dodge, aprox is 3 1/2" if anyone knows let me know who has them,

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Edited by knobless (see edit history)

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Hi Steve,

Nice work..i now have 3 tail lamp internals of which I can make 2 complete ones. That coupled with the two tail lamp bodies I should have 2 good lamps when I'm finished.

....From what I've seen the 34s have a unique tail light lens and neither the 33 or 35s seem to fit.

would it be ok if I sent you some money to pass on to Jack for me ? if ok I'll include the postage for the lens you sent me.

I went to pick up the front door window frames from the electroplated the other day but they still had pitting in them so he's going to redo them but now won't be finished until mid January. Never mind always have something else to work on.

Having the two rear doors finished has really spurred me along again and as I have about a week and a half off I'm going to try and get some more done.

Cheers

Ian

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Hi Steve,

Nice work..i now have 3 tail lamp internals of which I can make 2 complete ones. That coupled with the two tail lamp bodies I should have 2 good lamps when I'm finished.

....From what I've seen the 34s have a unique tail light lens and neither the 33 or 35s seem to fit.

would it be ok if I sent you some money to pass on to Jack for me ? if ok I'll include the postage for the lens you sent me.

I went to pick up the front door window frames from the electroplated the other day but they still had pitting in them so he's going to redo them but now won't be finished until mid January. Never mind always have something else to work on.

Having the two rear doors finished has really spurred me along again and as I have about a week and a half off I'm going to try and get some more done.

Cheers

Ian

Yes thats fine Ian, I know I have his address somewhere or if you have it post it to me,,,, let me know when you send it so I can keep an eye out for it, I too have to touch base with Jack again looking for some other small parts,,,

Steve

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Hey all,

A bit more repair work on the rear body bolt holes where rust had eaten away a few small areas.

At this point I brought the chassis over to the body shop and we sat the main body on to get a good idea of the fit. Seemed to fit reasonably well.

Next stage is to get all the panels on for the trial fit. Once done then the main body has to go off and get its two pack undercoat done.

Also received a new accelerator pedal in the post ( my original was very well worn to a point it looked melted ! )

After a long wait my front winged emblem also arrived in the mail which had been completely restored. Done in the traditional Cloisonné method....very happy with that one.

I volunteered to go on a school camp with my daughter to Soverign Hill which is a replica gold mining town and we had to get dressed up in period clothes. We had an absolute blast.

Cheers

Ian

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Dodge Badge.pdf

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Hi Ian

Great job on the car so far. Who did the Dodge badge for you and what was the cost like?

David

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Great job on the outing with your daughter! Cars come and cars go, but quality time with your kids while they're young is priceless.

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