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About rageracing

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  1. Not bad to do. I’ve done them on others before. I take the spindle to a machine shop where they can hone the bushing out to be round and correct fit.
  2. I think for now pull one side apart to measure good and match a set up.
  3. Finally trying to get some time with the truck. Had the steering box rebuilt. I was really sloppy and was missing internal parts. The tie rods, drag links and king pins are bad. Especially the drag link, I don’t know how it actually stayed together to be honest. Is the parts interchangeable with the 33 dodge cars. Rare parts doesn’t list the parts for the 33 HC?
  4. Yes I am still looking for them
  5. I put one on my 34 Pe and could never keep it working. It would just lose spark and I even tried it when I ran the motor on a test stand. No idea and they couldn’t tell me why either
  6. For engine oil I run brad penn “green oil” 20w/50 in my motors. It has the higher zinc and seems to really stick to the engine parts. I’ve torn them apart after sitting for over a year and everything still had a coating of oil on it. Gear oil I use lubriplate
  7. I have heard people say one way or another and I tried both but to put the struts underneath made things fit better so I went with that way.
  8. 33 pickup, does the hood struts go between the radiator shell and radiator or do they go underneath the radiator tab. They have a countersink in them like they would go between.
  9. I had to use my big slide hammer to get mine out the first time. The race must have been rusted in pretty bad
  10. When I rebuilt my 34 rear I used a slide hammer to pull axles and inner bearing races and inner oil seals. I went to a bearing and seal store and picked up new modern seals and timkin bearings. My rear has the shims behind the inner race so I installed everything with no shims, used a dial indicator on magnetic base to figure out the end play. Local sheet metal shop lazered me out the correct shim for each side out of shim stock and I put back together. The butter grease seal I took apart the original sheet metal one and pressed in a new seal I got from bearing and seal store. The sheet m
  11. I moved the driver's seat back in the sedan, that should work. Any ideas for a pickup?
  12. I need 19 and 23. I got the pedal and floorboards in. I have them adjusted what I believe is correct. The standard pedal adjustment is 1 1/8" at the top. Is that to where the throwout bearing bearing first contacts the fingers? The book says before resistance so that is how I took it. The issue I have is being 6'4" with long legs, I have a hard time getting my foot on the pedals. My knee gets stuck between the door and steering wheel. I need to get them lower if possible
  13. The thick rubber piece is what I'm guessing should be on the outside of the floor board? Also I need the clutch release fork lever lock (388055) and spring pull back bracket (600915). Any ideas where I could find those?
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