Kevin bc

John Is the transmission knob part 16 still available, can you get back to me if it is, if you send to Australia regards Kevin BC

Just at the stage of priming the bonnet on my 1930 DC dodge Phaeton, and I noticed a insert in one of the side pieces, where it joins onto the top piece. There is not a similar piece on the other side piece. My thoughts are that it is probally an "anti rattle insert" , or a " wedge to align the bonnet pieces correctly", It is reasonably loose fitting, and can be moved slightly with the fingers. Looks like it is just a piece of steel or copper bent into a U shape, and is lightly crimped over the bonnet side. It looks as though it would bear on the hinge pin Members let me know your thoughts. I am going to re assemble it as is,but I'm just interested to know what it is actually for. My DC sedan, does not have this insert on either side of the bonnet Kevin BC

Just an observation, look at the tires on the ice cream trucks. Looks like the nice surfaced roads didn,t go too far, as they all have mud on their sidewalls, with the exception of the traytop at the left of the photo. Uniforms and trucks look pretty clean , and ready to go Kevin BC

Ian Kevin BC here, was that "A Class Metal finishers" that did your horns here in Adelaide, if it was I'll just give them a plug , as I use them, just sent the 6 wheel bars for the spare tire wells down to them ,very badly pitted, thought they would never get them perfect, but they came back, with not a pit to be seen, they do an excellent job, apparently do defence work as well , which you don't get if your work is not up to par. They are not the cheapest, but the price is reflected in the quality of their work. Kevin

Keiser Kevin BC from down under near the rally. John would be right, that there are no 31's around our neck of the woods, I have two 30 Dc's, the first I picked up in 1969, and the second in 1982, we think their were only about around 50 DC's bought to Australia from Canada?? in Mechanical Kit form in 1930, due to the depression, plus a handful of Budd Coupes and roadsters.(4 Budd Coupes came in apparently, there appears to be a few more roadsters than that), plus I know of one DC Budd sedan restored in Sydney. 1931/2 would have been at the peak of the depression, and it looks like there were no bulk imports of 31's , could have been a few Budd sedans cars privately imported. have seen a few 32 bits. I have been a DC man since 69 , and can say that I have never seen any 31,s in my travels, or even bits from one. Parts have not been a problem for my Dc's as no one has wanted the parts that were around.I have sold a few Budd parts that I got at swap meets back to the US, as other than mechanicals , very few Budd parts will interchange, even door handles are different, sidelights are different, bonnets and latches are different, doors wont interchange, steering box is different(worm turns the other way), sunvisors are different too, dash is separate and removable on Aus car, whereas on a Budd car it is part of the Cowl, plus the windscreen headboard is wood, and has a pressed steel winder mechanism, unlike the Budd one with its diecast cogs. The DC's in Australia had bodies(built of wood framing, built by Richards body builders in Adelaide, on them, and I have seen photos of several DC ambulances built in Melbourne. regards Kevin

Minnibago I wonder if the rim was inserted at a too sharp an angle to start with, I have just changed a tube recently, and am trying to remember the event as the rim slipped on quite easily, I am pretty certain I didnt have the rim at such a sharp angle as I replaced the rim, having said that the lip on my rim is like a roll not a acute lip like the wheel in question has , so thats my reasoning for thinking in this case the angle was too great and it is stuck across that lip , and I definetly think those bolts have to come out, before there will be any success,I think one of those bolts must be fouling in a hole or on the locating piece of metal if it has one as mine does. I also wonder if the rim could be out of round???, and the wheel has just hit the narrowest part of the rim. I just went and checked one of my rims, and discovered that you cannot remove my rims without taking the bolts out as one hole in the wheel rim has a steel cover over it, and if bolt is not removed the rim would sit on top of the bolt and not seat into the rim, and cause the problem at hand maybe H Burgh sorry for talking around you, but we are trying to brainstorm your problem and get a solution for you Kevin

Kevin BC here If I remember correctly with my Dodge DC wheels, I found that in my case it was neccessary to have all the bolts removed to replace the rim, I think it just made it a lot easier, but I still had to use a rubber hammer to just tap the rim into place, as the rims do not settle in a 100% round shape, when they are snapped shut, and dont settle in place till they are all bolted up tight.Having to insert the valve stem first thus putting the rim at an angle to the wheel means you have two slightly different diameters in play which causes the slight jam between the rim and the hub, and this is where the rubber hammer comes into play.I USALLY GIVE THEM QUITE A WACK TO GET THEM TO POP INTO PLACE I presume that if the bolts are still in there the angle of the holes may foul the the bolts adding more pressure to the problem. Removing the bolts to take it off make it easier too I found, once again just give them a hit with the rubber hammer, and they will pop out easily. The threads on the bolts, are pretty coarse and forgiving of a rubber hammer.

Axial Kevin BC here again Just looking at your photographs again and another observation. The fuel line from the pump to the carbi, runs very close to the exhaust manifold at the front. It may have been rerouted when the heater was installed?. If you live in a colder area of the states probally not a problem, but here in Australia we have to keep the line as far away from the manifold as possible, other wise we can have trouble with vaporisation of the fuel( especially the rubbish fuel we get these days}. The DC fuel line comes out of the pump, turns right and heads straight up to the carbi (line as short as possible). Once again a check of a handbook should verify the placement of the fuel line on your vehicle. regards Kevin BC

Just a question to to any DG owners out there,, I noticed in the photos of the sedan, that the speedo is on the right side of the instrument panel, and the ignition switch on the left. Would work well here in Australia, but wouldn't you want the speedo on the left hand end of the instrument panel more in front of the driver in the US, as they are fairly hard to read at the best of times, without being half way across the car. Is it in the correct position?. I guess someone with a DG handbook should be able to set me straight. On the 1930 DC8 the speedo and ignition switch are either side of centre, so can be switched around easilyto suit right hand drive here in Australia. Just an observation Kevin BC South Australia Down under

Axial Nice car , I have a 1930 Dc Dodge 8, your car looks very origonal around the motor area, it has the country aircleaner, which mine has, I presume the cleaner is supposed to filter more dust out than the round city type,. Not a lot of DKs around, as I guess it was depression time, and the extra money wasn't around to spend on more expensive cars. I have attached a photo of a pretty standard DK coupe that I downloaded off the net a few years ago as I thought it worthy of keeping it for someone one day Happy motoring Kevin BC

Kevin BC here from Sth Aus I have two DC Dodges, a sedan on the road and a Phaeton half restored. I can get you a brass crank hole cover cast up, at a foundery about 30 kms from me at Callington in the Adelaide Hills. I have a blank , waiting for the Phaeton, I have to go down to the foundery in a couple of weeks to pick up a set of bumper over riders, and a set of outside door handle back plates. I can take the blank with me and get one cast up for you, I would probaly get two cast up to have a spare, you never know when someone wants one???. It would need some work on it to get it to chroming stage, and the wire retainer would need a thread tapped into the cover to hold the bracket to it. The wire retainer is made from a piece of flat steel.I will dig it out tomorrow and send a photo. Kevin BC

Kevin BC here There is a seal Company I deal with in Melbourne, and they have supplied most of the the bearings and seals for my DC, with the exception of one bearing cone in the steering box, which I had to have made up , as they said they had the last one in the world, and I needed TWO.. they are "The AA bearing Company" (contact@aabearings.com.au) I know they definetly had the axle grease seals ,but I don't know about the inner oil seals , as I know I searched for many years for them, and a set popped up on Ebay one day, maybe worth a try Kevin

Some interesting photos from South Australia down under, A 1930 Dodge DC ambulance in Melbourne, would appear there were several made, as there is a photo around of 5/6 parked in a row. Cars in Main Street of Murray Bridge in Country south Australia where I grew up in the mid 1920's Car bodies and bits in Richards Factory Adelaide , appears to be going to a Company in Perth(not a lot of security on that lot) would have been transported by rail 2000 miles, and 3 railway gauge changes at that time. Appears they might have sent the cars unassembled to Perth.? Couple bodies loaded on truck at Richards - no modern assembly lines here in Adelaide

Kevin BC here . Another option which I used on my DC is to run a wire in where the centre wire comes in and put it under one of the cap screws. If you put it on the fuel line then you are relying on the connection between the fuel line , the tank through the screw, to the unit. that makes a few places that a dry joint can happen. Make sure there is no paint under the screw on the unit. the idea behind this is you want an earth to the unit not the tank. Kevin BC

rjp I have two 1930 Dodge 8 's a sedan and a phaeton, they are rare cars and I have been communicating with Dodge 8 owners in Australia , Canada ,and the US for as long as the net has been working , and the members of the Forum have more than enough info on most issues that will confront you. there will always be a difference of opinions on some issues but the owners and members will always be ready to help Kevin BC from Down under