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Kevin bc

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About Kevin bc

  • Birthday 09/26/1948

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  1. Rich Kevin BC here The rear seat squab I believe should be mounted hinged at the bottom to the floor, with a stud tag at the top centre to clip to the rear rail, as the side curtains when not in use , are supposed to reside in that cavity I have been told. Some one may have more info on this subject. I believe this would be correct , because "Where else could they fit on a nice sunny day with the roof down, with the Aussie breeze in your hair, might help get the Covid germs ??? I havent, actually seen it on a tourer, but the rear seat in my 1930 DC Dodge was mounted this way on a wooden riser about 100mm long with the hinge attached to it, and stud secured at the top. I dont know if it was intended as a space to keep some tools or other bits and pieces for a sedan. Ill see if I have a photo of the mount Kevin BC
  2. Matt Whilst looking at your latest additions , the side curtains, I noticed the mounts for the the side curtains ( apparently known as Dawson Plugs), did you have them in the car or did you procure them. I have been searching all afternoon, and have had no joy other then some for a 1930 Caddy at about $80 each, or some A ford ones which don't look right for a Dodge. Will make some if can't buy them , but thought they would be reproduced by someone, do you know of any suppliers. Matt do you realise that soon you are going to run out of things to do after tea??? Kevin BC
  3. Ian I guess there are a few IFs here, with regards to the springs being through the backing card If you have leather then the spring resting on the leather is unlikely to show through the leather, and cause any unsightly ring around the door handle. If you have material lining then the spring against the material would likely show through the material as a prominent ring around the handle. If you have round etruchions then you might not see any ring, depending on the diameter of the etruchion If you have rectangular etruchions as I do then then you would likely see some of the ring either side of the etruchion sides. Kevin
  4. Ian I reckon that means "Take your pick" or one is LH drive & the other is RH Drive Kevin
  5. Ian Found this drawing for a Chev Seville on the net, I think it was. the offical US name for those springs is "Handle Tension Spring", In its modern form on this vehicle the spring is doing the same as our cars by keeping the door panel and crank handle washer pressed up against the handle,so not much has changed in 70-80 years on some parts of a car. Kevin
  6. Ian I might have confused the issue with those two photos, the rear panel with the wadding shown through has had the backing cut away, so as you say the spring would have rested against the material/leather and kept the material/leather pressed against the etruschion . I don't think this is how it was intended.I think they did this to get the clearance to get the pin in the hole easily.It shouldn't have been done that way. Motor trimmer taking shortcuts. It should be as in the top photo where you can see the spring was resting on the backing cardboard which would then push the cardboard/material/leather against the etruschion. If you look at the etruschion the points on the circumference should be big enough to pierce the material and into the cardboard to stop them turning , if there is no cardboard there the etruschion would not hold in the material, and would finish up turning with the handle. This way you have the max force pressing back against the etruschion. ie spring, cardboard,and material/leather. Its quite hard to get the tags of the etruschion to pierce the leather/material/cardboard, so I actually maked the spots and made 4 little incisions through the leather into the backing with a Stanley knife to make sure they would pierce the leather and card to lock into place. Its funny how a little spring can make so much conversation, its no wonder we can make a restoration last for years, Matts the exception I reckon Kevin
  7. Ian Your last few words prompted me to go and pull my old door skins out of their hidyhole - new I kept them for a reason. I can now say for certain the big end goes towards the handle , as you can see in the picture a large imprint in the cardboard, also note that they have cutout some of the cardboard thickness ,I guess for the same reason I talked about above. Picture 349 is a rear door, looks like they cut out all the cardboard to get it to fit, and the other photos have part of the cardboard cutout on a front door. The orig cardboard was thicker than what I remembered. Just to add something else I have also kept most of the old timber from my 1930 DC8 Tourer, if anyone ever finds another DC8 Tourer and needs a pattern, it may be in my shed Kevin
  8. Ian Whilst on this topic of door handle springs, I also came across a situation with mine created by todays changes to re trimming of our old cars. You would have found when taking the trim apart that the card they used back then was only about 1mm cardboard, with some wadding and the material or leather over that. However the trimmers of today like to use thin board of about 2-4mm as the backing, which gives a nice solid backing ,and a beautiful smooth flat finish of the door panels. This is where the problem can occur, you need a certain depth of free moving area on your mechanism stalk to push the etruschion in towards the door to drop the pin in to secure the handles. In my case you have the thickness of etruschion (10mm), new door panel(4-5mm), and spring in compressed state(4mm),around about19mm you need to be able to move etruschion in to drop the pin in to secure the handle. My old panel was only 2mm thick not 5mm like the new one, so I lost 3mm of movement along the shaft, and couln't get the pins in. After pondering the problem for a few days and many attempts to get those little pins in, and breaking out one of the pin holes in a handle , I succeded by taking the panel off, and on the back of the panel around the holes ground out a circle with a Dremmel grinder to the size of the spring diameter(large end), and took about 3mm of the material out of the board, leaving enough to hold the pressure of the spring . This allowed me to push everthing back about an extra 3mm towards the door which then gave me enough room to drop the pin in to secure the handle. I found using a small diameter long shank punch made inserting the pin easier. I guess if you use thin backing or get your trimmer to use thin backing, then there wont be a problem, but I thought the potential problem just needs to be bought to peoples attention, as it wasted a lot of my time finding a solution Kevin
  9. Ian The spring keeps the pressure on the door card as it presses against the little triangular tags on the etrushion (Spelling is bad), which stops it from turning with the winder or door handle, and cutting grooves in the material as the handles operate, basically there to stop the etruschions turning.When you assemble the door handles you have to press the etruschions into the materiel to make 4 little slits for the etruschion pins to stick into, making sure they are pointing in the correct position if like mine on the Dodge 8 they are sqaurish in nature and only fit in one position, if they are round position doesn't matter. The result of not having them there is that over time you may get the etruschions turning and cutting through the material, especially the drivers door which gets more use. Mine were 70+ yrs old when pulled apart and the etruschions where still where they were put when the car was built Kevin BC Kevin BC
  10. Matt Kevin BC again 99% of alternators are negative ground ie Positive battery(Modern cars since the mid 60's). Our cars are positive earth ie Negative battery. If a alternator is hooked up to our cars with neg battery, they won't work, and the diodes can be damaged I just read. I don't know how they configure the alternators to work on our cars, perhaps the diodes have to be reversed in the alternator. This could be the problem in your case, the alternator would test ok on the test bench, as the tech person would hook it up correctly,and away it would go, but as soon as you hook it up in the car its the wrong polarity, and no go, if your car is Negative battery. They talk about changing the polarity of the battery to fit an alternator , but that would add confusion as I think all your gauges, petrol tank unit, connections would then have to be their wiring reversed, and the coil connected reversed, which would confuse anyone trying to trouble shoot later. Hope this info is of use regards Kevin
  11. Matt Kevin BC here. Talking of Earths, does your car have an rear engine mount earth strap, between the chassis ' and the bell housing assembly, this has been a problem on DC8's, too much paint on everything, and no path for those little electrons to run through, even though the motor is solid mounted at the front. Some people forget to put that braided strap back Us restorers can be over diligent in applying that paint stuff regards Kevin BC
  12. Matt Kevin BC here It can be painful with this rego business, I did a lot of chasing around here in Sth Aus as the police used to be able to certify the old cars ,but when I went to the local station the officer said all the paperwork had been removed 2 weeks before & I would have to take it to Adelaide for inspection. I had to round up Bullfrog and his 4 wheel drive and we loaded up my 30 Dc Dodge and off we went. Got down to the site unloaded the car , drove it in when my name was called, the guy with a clipboard asked to see the engine number, wrote it down, asked about the straight 8 engine, asked if I had a chassis No, which I had never found , said thats OK I'll put the engine No down as a chassis No, then told us to go and put it back on the trailer while he checked the computor. When we got back he said there was no records of the car on the computor, which I already new as the Rego people have had about 4 system changes over the last 40 years, and all the old info is GONE. Perhaps you should slip over the border, into Sth Aust, and get it registered(Only Joking), and have a beer after all your hard work For all the overseas members, there is great rivalry between all the Australian States, and each states Govt do all things differently. Anyway hope you get it sorted soon Kevin BC
  13. Kevin BC here These are pillars off a Australian 1930 DC Dodge 8 Phaeton, that I am doing up, have not done a car with folding windscreen before, my question is "Should the tapered wedges sit flush with the faces of the pillar" , or should they be a little proud. Question 2 is "How and what fastens the bottom two pillar pieces together, there is a thrust washer on the outside that has a CS screw in it , but does this screw, thread into these thrust wedges or does it have a nut on the inside of the pillar. The gaping hole in the centre of the old wedge is connected with getting the vacumn to the wiper, so I,m presuming a nut on the inside of the pillar, with perhaps another thrust washer. This piece comes from another Dodge pillar I have, so that is why it isn't a good fit.The pillars came minus the fittings so I have been scrounging the bits, have got all the top pieces, its mainly the securing method of the lower pivots that I'm short of information Does anyone have a photo of all the bits needed. Kevin BC
  14. Info for Matt See you like the wheel painting frame, another easy idea if you have a spare front axle is to mount it on a table, and slip some old bearings in the wheels and spin them on the axle, but you are limited to 2 at a time. regards Kevin BC
  15. Kevin BC here Do you have a earth strap between the motor and the chassis, my Dodge 8,s both have a strap from the engine rear mount/bel housing to the chassis, by passing the rear engine mount to give the motor a good earth, it is not relying on the front solid mount of the motor which could have paint , or rust preventing a good earth though the front mount, which is the only contact of the motor to the chassis. regards Kevin
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