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1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration


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I've heated them up before but I thought I'd give the dishwashing liquid a go this time.

Trouble I had was while I was fitting them I forgot I'd removed the brakes and backing plates so I must have pressed the brake pedal a bit and I had a puddle of brake fluid at the back of the car. Rookie mistake !!!!! I had to laugh though....I thought....you idiot !

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I put the luggage rack grommets on easily with just hit water and-or hair dryer 

 

I was always so told not to use WD-40 on rubber pads .. but I used to put grease on motorcycle tank pads to slide them in .  
 

but yea .. restoring rubber with grease is probably not good .. 

 

 

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Ian .. I boil hot water in a pot .  Then set the parts in to soak .. I forgot if I used a little grease For the luggage rack grommets .. tho I hope I did   .. I’ve never (in my motorcycle years anyway) had grease discolor rubber .. Or anything else .. do you think the dishwasher liquid did it ?? Strange
 

 

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When I inserted the rubber in the DA windscreen frame I used Wurth Rubber Care. Comes in a spray can and was recommended in another old thread (by 1930, if I remember correctly). It is quite dear, but by far the best I have used in rubber. The windscreen frame had extensive repairs (by me) and was a very tight fit in a number of places. Tried lots of different detergents and stuff at the time and all were unsuccessful. The rubber care worked and worked well. Wurth a try (pun intended!) if something is giving you a really hard time.

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On 10/12/2020 at 1:06 AM, Ian_Greenlaw said:

Bit the bullet and though I'd better pull the rear drum and brakes off to replace the cracked banjo fitting. Chocked the rear of the car, got the tyres off and removed everything. You can see the damage the brake fluid has done over time. Glad I found it now rather then when the car is finished. Taken the backing plate to a blaster and then I'll get them repainted. I'm glad I bought a drum puller !....boy they let go with a bang but didn't have too much trouble. Took more time to get the brake springs off.

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I am going through something similar on my ‘33 brakes. Imagine my surprise to find that the nut on the back of the plate didn’t move the cam on the front of the plate. I had it spot welded in three or four places and that seems to have fixed the problem. Zeke

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Always problems, isn't there !

Thought I'd better strip the brake cylinders down just to check on them. Looks like I better do all 4. Lucky I had them sleaved in stainless steel. Once I got the pistons out it literally wiped clean internally.

Now the question I have is there any way to clean up the pistons. There not damaged just a little crusty....only word I could use to describe them.

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6 hours ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:

Always problems, isn't there !

Thought I'd better strip the brake cylinders down just to check on them. Looks like I better do all 4. Lucky I had them sleaved in stainless steel. Once I got the pistons out it literally wiped clean internally.

Now the question I have is there any way to clean up the pistons. There not damaged just a little crusty....only word I could use to describe them.

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I used the finest grade steel wool (0000) and basically polished mine. A little effort but effective. Zeke

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Thanks guys, great suggestions. I'll see which one I can get first. Have to work around the lockdown !!!

 

Picked up the brake backing plates from the blaster and dropped them off to the painter.....some days I don't know which way I'm facing with all the things happening at one time.

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Can’t give anything very objective or analytic.. have never seen discoloration like that .. have to question the quality - composition of the material ... and Perhaps  compare to other rubber products from same manufacturer and different manufacturers to understand  .. geez .. 

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Ian, further to my recent comment on Wurth Rubber Care and now in reference to the gear shift boot, the rubber corners on my bonnet developed a white film. It looks like your boot has the same, but I am not sure of the brown stuff. Anyway, I treated the rubber corners with the Wurth Rubber Care and the white film wiped off. Sprayed a bit more on and left it for a couple of days. The "liquid" is now gone and the corners again look like new. I don't know what happens to the liquid rubber care, if it evaporates or is absorbed by the rubber, but it goes away. Did not want to comment again till I had tried it, as all I had used it for in the past was to make rubber slippery. As I said, not cheap, but goes a long way. Just checked and now $42 on line, but I see there is a stick version as well now. Have not used that but.

John

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New thread: I’ve installed my luggage rack but it won’t fold out .. I’m thinking it must be friction at the two bolts that fasten the short straight lower arm to the rack Itself 
 

what types of bolts does one use to allow it to swing freely .. ?

 

is the installation otherwise ok ? 
 

tx .. les

 

1934 dodge DR 4-door

 

 

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Thanks for the info. I'll see what I can find over here.

 

Les, Go to page 14 of this thread. Have a look at the photo's etc. I know I've put a bolt through to prevent the luggage rack from being lowered as I was worried eventually it might vibrate loose.

Check out the photos and I'll have a look when I get home and do some comparisons for you.

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Ian, thx! I’ve looked at your photos many times !! They are my savior and i think  the installation is correct ,.. but I’m thinking that the threaded bolts I put in may be impeding the the ability of the rack to rotate .. it’s crazy ! 

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Hi Les,

Here's a few more shots with closeups. The first photo has an arrow which shows the bolt I put in to lock the luggage rack in position. I think there was a pin originally so that when pulled out you could lower the rack. The bolt pics maybe what you are missing ?

Post a photo of what your looking at in relation to the bracket arms. So many different terms I get confused. Another thing you may not have are support arms so when the luggage rack is lowered ( permantely ) there are two arms that bolt to the rack at each end which then bolt to the bumper bar. A lot of people don't even know these exist.

The little rubber piece you'll see in the 7th photo I put there to stop the rack vibrating.

Let me know how you go. Easy to get photos now I have a hoist !!!!

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These are the supports so when the luggage rack is folded down and you put heavy things on it ( and the rack is down in a permanent position ) these bolt to the rack and the bumper bar bolts. The rack has to be DOWN for these to fit. You can't have these fitted if you have the rack up ( unless you want them just hanging there incase you put the rack down ).

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They fasten to the bumper bolt ..  but where on the luggage rack ? 
 

i “remember” the rack folding up and down when they were on .. ???  Hen I dust examines the car .. My pictures  suggest they were attached to the end of the horizontal support rod  .. ?? 
 

any of that make sense ?? 

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They fasten to the bumper bolt ..  but where on the luggage rack ? 
 

i “remember” the rack folding up and down when they were on .. ???  Hen I dust examines the car .. My pictures  suggest they were attached to the end of the horizontal support rod  .. ?? 
 

any of that make sense ?? 

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I checked the fitting and it seems they would fit near the end of the rod .. either inside or outside .. most likely outside ... where the rod goes thru the main bracket 

 

to me that makes sense since it would give the rack some triangular support and be permanent .. 
 

funny ... 

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10 minutes ago, Lescor said:

They fasten to the bumper bolt ..  but where on the luggage rack ? 
 

i “remember” the rack folding up and down when they were on .. ???  Hen I dust examines the car .. My pictures  suggest they were attached to the end of the horizontal support rod  .. ?? 
 

any of that make sense ?? 

 

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Yes it as appears that the supports pictured above are the correct length and angle to bolt onto the bumper bracket and then bolt into the the luggage rack rod .. 

 

now I have to take the bumper off and see where it can attach with out interfering with the bracket cover plates .. and/or allowing the bracket covers to fit .. I think you know what I’m referring to .??:)))

 

geez .. 

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Decided to pull all the temporary wiring out of the car. Connected all its own wiring and started to test a few things. As soon as I connected the battery up the horns started to go off ( damn near gave me a heart attack ). Hmmmm, considering the horn button on the steering wheel isn't connected is a bit odd. Anyhow, pulled the wires for the horn off the live terminal and that shut them up. Tested a few things....headlights tested ok. Looked a bit dull until I stood in front of them now all I can see are spots ! Tested the lights on the instrument panel, they look pretty cool. Interior light tested ok. The wipers didn't work, then I realised I haven't put a fuse in the connector. Did that and they worked too. So far so good. Rear tail lights lit up. ( can't check the brake lights as no brake cylinders on the back...still waiting for the painter to redo the backing plates ). Tried the indicators.....nope, nothing. Checked all the connections and still nothing. tested with my multimeter and got power everywhere. I'll leave that for another day. A milestone reached so happy with the wiring I've done and what is working.

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8 hours ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:

. . . The wipers didn't work, then I realised I haven't put a fuse in the connector. Did that and they worked too. . . 

You have electric wipers on your '34 Dodge?

 

Is that something the Australian cars had that we missed out on in the United States? Or was that retrofitted later by some previous owner?

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Always something, isn't there Les !!!

 

Ply33 - Originals on the Dodge were vaccum. Mine didn't have any when I got the car but the previous owner had some smallish 6v ones. Its taken a lot of work due to the distance between the body and the header panel as most will simply not fit in the space. Once finished the only thing different will be the missing vaccum hose. Interesting thing, my body ( Budd Body ) only came with one wiper arm hole over the drivers side. The guy that did the body work put one over the passenger side to even them up. I bought a switch which has a similar pull button as the vaccum switches that sits in the same place as the header panel. When everything is finished it should look the part.

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Ian .. Do you have a picture showing how the windshield hinge mounts to the windshield frame 

 

the large flange seems to screw into the interior header area where the are two holes Spaced 2 1/4” apart  .. that leaves the small flange with two holes to fasten to the windshield .. right?? 
 

tx .. les 
 

 

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