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1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration


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I've heated them up before but I thought I'd give the dishwashing liquid a go this time.

Trouble I had was while I was fitting them I forgot I'd removed the brakes and backing plates so I must have pressed the brake pedal a bit and I had a puddle of brake fluid at the back of the car. Rookie mistake !!!!! I had to laugh though....I thought....you idiot !

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I put the luggage rack grommets on easily with just hit water and-or hair dryer 

 

I was always so told not to use WD-40 on rubber pads .. but I used to put grease on motorcycle tank pads to slide them in .  
 

but yea .. restoring rubber with grease is probably not good .. 

 

 

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I used a tine bit of dishwashing liquid on my luggage rack grommets only because I couldn't find a mug that would fit them in. So far so good, no discolouration.

I pulled out the gear shift grommet and part of it has gone brown. I'll post a pic later to see if anyone has a cure !

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Ian .. I boil hot water in a pot .  Then set the parts in to soak .. I forgot if I used a little grease For the luggage rack grommets .. tho I hope I did   .. I’ve never (in my motorcycle years anyway) had grease discolor rubber .. Or anything else .. do you think the dishwasher liquid did it ?? Strange
 

 

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We may have to consider that there are different qualities of repop rubber .. different compositions .. I don’t know anything specific .. but that could be a factor .. all my MC stuff came from one fabricator and he was good . 

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When I inserted the rubber in the DA windscreen frame I used Wurth Rubber Care. Comes in a spray can and was recommended in another old thread (by 1930, if I remember correctly). It is quite dear, but by far the best I have used in rubber. The windscreen frame had extensive repairs (by me) and was a very tight fit in a number of places. Tried lots of different detergents and stuff at the time and all were unsuccessful. The rubber care worked and worked well. Wurth a try (pun intended!) if something is giving you a really hard time.

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On 10/12/2020 at 1:06 AM, Ian_Greenlaw said:

Bit the bullet and though I'd better pull the rear drum and brakes off to replace the cracked banjo fitting. Chocked the rear of the car, got the tyres off and removed everything. You can see the damage the brake fluid has done over time. Glad I found it now rather then when the car is finished. Taken the backing plate to a blaster and then I'll get them repainted. I'm glad I bought a drum puller !....boy they let go with a bang but didn't have too much trouble. Took more time to get the brake springs off.

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I am going through something similar on my ‘33 brakes. Imagine my surprise to find that the nut on the back of the plate didn’t move the cam on the front of the plate. I had it spot welded in three or four places and that seems to have fixed the problem. Zeke

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Always problems, isn't there !

Thought I'd better strip the brake cylinders down just to check on them. Looks like I better do all 4. Lucky I had them sleaved in stainless steel. Once I got the pistons out it literally wiped clean internally.

Now the question I have is there any way to clean up the pistons. There not damaged just a little crusty....only word I could use to describe them.

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6 hours ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:

Always problems, isn't there !

Thought I'd better strip the brake cylinders down just to check on them. Looks like I better do all 4. Lucky I had them sleaved in stainless steel. Once I got the pistons out it literally wiped clean internally.

Now the question I have is there any way to clean up the pistons. There not damaged just a little crusty....only word I could use to describe them.

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I used the finest grade steel wool (0000) and basically polished mine. A little effort but effective. Zeke

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Thanks guys, great suggestions. I'll see which one I can get first. Have to work around the lockdown !!!

 

Picked up the brake backing plates from the blaster and dropped them off to the painter.....some days I don't know which way I'm facing with all the things happening at one time.

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Can’t give anything very objective or analytic.. have never seen discoloration like that .. have to question the quality - composition of the material ... and Perhaps  compare to other rubber products from same manufacturer and different manufacturers to understand  .. geez .. 

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Ian, further to my recent comment on Wurth Rubber Care and now in reference to the gear shift boot, the rubber corners on my bonnet developed a white film. It looks like your boot has the same, but I am not sure of the brown stuff. Anyway, I treated the rubber corners with the Wurth Rubber Care and the white film wiped off. Sprayed a bit more on and left it for a couple of days. The "liquid" is now gone and the corners again look like new. I don't know what happens to the liquid rubber care, if it evaporates or is absorbed by the rubber, but it goes away. Did not want to comment again till I had tried it, as all I had used it for in the past was to make rubber slippery. As I said, not cheap, but goes a long way. Just checked and now $42 on line, but I see there is a stick version as well now. Have not used that but.

John

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New thread: I’ve installed my luggage rack but it won’t fold out .. I’m thinking it must be friction at the two bolts that fasten the short straight lower arm to the rack Itself 
 

what types of bolts does one use to allow it to swing freely .. ?

 

is the installation otherwise ok ? 
 

tx .. les

 

1934 dodge DR 4-door

 

 

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Thanks for the info. I'll see what I can find over here.

 

Les, Go to page 14 of this thread. Have a look at the photo's etc. I know I've put a bolt through to prevent the luggage rack from being lowered as I was worried eventually it might vibrate loose.

Check out the photos and I'll have a look when I get home and do some comparisons for you.

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Ian, thx! I’ve looked at your photos many times !! They are my savior and i think  the installation is correct ,.. but I’m thinking that the threaded bolts I put in may be impeding the the ability of the rack to rotate .. it’s crazy ! 

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Ian ..  another puzzle is that the luggage bracket arms that bolt into the frame below the rear end have 3/4 holes in them .. mid shaft .. what is the purpose? 
 

i have nothing that fits there ! 
 

Les 

 

 

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Hi Les,

Here's a few more shots with closeups. The first photo has an arrow which shows the bolt I put in to lock the luggage rack in position. I think there was a pin originally so that when pulled out you could lower the rack. The bolt pics maybe what you are missing ?

Post a photo of what your looking at in relation to the bracket arms. So many different terms I get confused. Another thing you may not have are support arms so when the luggage rack is lowered ( permantely ) there are two arms that bolt to the rack at each end which then bolt to the bumper bar. A lot of people don't even know these exist.

The little rubber piece you'll see in the 7th photo I put there to stop the rack vibrating.

Let me know how you go. Easy to get photos now I have a hoist !!!!

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