Ian_Greenlaw Posted October 14, 2020 Author Share Posted October 14, 2020 I've heated them up before but I thought I'd give the dishwashing liquid a go this time. Trouble I had was while I was fitting them I forgot I'd removed the brakes and backing plates so I must have pressed the brake pedal a bit and I had a puddle of brake fluid at the back of the car. Rookie mistake !!!!! I had to laugh though....I thought....you idiot ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lescor Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 I put the luggage rack grommets on easily with just hit water and-or hair dryer I was always so told not to use WD-40 on rubber pads .. but I used to put grease on motorcycle tank pads to slide them in . but yea .. restoring rubber with grease is probably not good .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted October 14, 2020 Author Share Posted October 14, 2020 I used a tine bit of dishwashing liquid on my luggage rack grommets only because I couldn't find a mug that would fit them in. So far so good, no discolouration. I pulled out the gear shift grommet and part of it has gone brown. I'll post a pic later to see if anyone has a cure ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lescor Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 Ian .. I boil hot water in a pot . Then set the parts in to soak .. I forgot if I used a little grease For the luggage rack grommets .. tho I hope I did .. I’ve never (in my motorcycle years anyway) had grease discolor rubber .. Or anything else .. do you think the dishwasher liquid did it ?? Strange Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lescor Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 We may have to consider that there are different qualities of repop rubber .. different compositions .. I don’t know anything specific .. but that could be a factor .. all my MC stuff came from one fabricator and he was good . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullfrog_eng Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 When I inserted the rubber in the DA windscreen frame I used Wurth Rubber Care. Comes in a spray can and was recommended in another old thread (by 1930, if I remember correctly). It is quite dear, but by far the best I have used in rubber. The windscreen frame had extensive repairs (by me) and was a very tight fit in a number of places. Tried lots of different detergents and stuff at the time and all were unsuccessful. The rubber care worked and worked well. Wurth a try (pun intended!) if something is giving you a really hard time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeke01 Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 On 10/12/2020 at 1:06 AM, Ian_Greenlaw said: Bit the bullet and though I'd better pull the rear drum and brakes off to replace the cracked banjo fitting. Chocked the rear of the car, got the tyres off and removed everything. You can see the damage the brake fluid has done over time. Glad I found it now rather then when the car is finished. Taken the backing plate to a blaster and then I'll get them repainted. I'm glad I bought a drum puller !....boy they let go with a bang but didn't have too much trouble. Took more time to get the brake springs off. I am going through something similar on my ‘33 brakes. Imagine my surprise to find that the nut on the back of the plate didn’t move the cam on the front of the plate. I had it spot welded in three or four places and that seems to have fixed the problem. Zeke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted October 15, 2020 Author Share Posted October 15, 2020 Always problems, isn't there ! Thought I'd better strip the brake cylinders down just to check on them. Looks like I better do all 4. Lucky I had them sleaved in stainless steel. Once I got the pistons out it literally wiped clean internally. Now the question I have is there any way to clean up the pistons. There not damaged just a little crusty....only word I could use to describe them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeke01 Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 6 hours ago, Ian_Greenlaw said: Always problems, isn't there ! Thought I'd better strip the brake cylinders down just to check on them. Looks like I better do all 4. Lucky I had them sleaved in stainless steel. Once I got the pistons out it literally wiped clean internally. Now the question I have is there any way to clean up the pistons. There not damaged just a little crusty....only word I could use to describe them. I used the finest grade steel wool (0000) and basically polished mine. A little effort but effective. Zeke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 (edited) If you have a bench grinder Ian you can get a scotch-brite wheel to fit one. They clean up parts beautifully without removing any material. Edited October 15, 2020 by Mattml430 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted October 16, 2020 Author Share Posted October 16, 2020 Thanks guys, great suggestions. I'll see which one I can get first. Have to work around the lockdown !!! Picked up the brake backing plates from the blaster and dropped them off to the painter.....some days I don't know which way I'm facing with all the things happening at one time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted October 17, 2020 Author Share Posted October 17, 2020 Here's some photos of the gear shift boot. Its been stored along with a lot of other parts, not wrapped in anything or up against anything. Just looks really odd. Any suggestions ? I've tried Armourall to see if that did anything but looks the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lescor Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 Can’t give anything very objective or analytic.. have never seen discoloration like that .. have to question the quality - composition of the material ... and Perhaps compare to other rubber products from same manufacturer and different manufacturers to understand .. geez .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullfrog_eng Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 Ian, further to my recent comment on Wurth Rubber Care and now in reference to the gear shift boot, the rubber corners on my bonnet developed a white film. It looks like your boot has the same, but I am not sure of the brown stuff. Anyway, I treated the rubber corners with the Wurth Rubber Care and the white film wiped off. Sprayed a bit more on and left it for a couple of days. The "liquid" is now gone and the corners again look like new. I don't know what happens to the liquid rubber care, if it evaporates or is absorbed by the rubber, but it goes away. Did not want to comment again till I had tried it, as all I had used it for in the past was to make rubber slippery. As I said, not cheap, but goes a long way. Just checked and now $42 on line, but I see there is a stick version as well now. Have not used that but. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lescor Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 New thread: I’ve installed my luggage rack but it won’t fold out .. I’m thinking it must be friction at the two bolts that fasten the short straight lower arm to the rack Itself what types of bolts does one use to allow it to swing freely .. ? is the installation otherwise ok ? tx .. les 1934 dodge DR 4-door Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lescor Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 Wurth composition: FYI p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted October 21, 2020 Author Share Posted October 21, 2020 Thanks for the info. I'll see what I can find over here. Les, Go to page 14 of this thread. Have a look at the photo's etc. I know I've put a bolt through to prevent the luggage rack from being lowered as I was worried eventually it might vibrate loose. Check out the photos and I'll have a look when I get home and do some comparisons for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lescor Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 Ian, thx! I’ve looked at your photos many times !! They are my savior and i think the installation is correct ,.. but I’m thinking that the threaded bolts I put in may be impeding the the ability of the rack to rotate .. it’s crazy ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lescor Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 Ian .. another puzzle is that the luggage bracket arms that bolt into the frame below the rear end have 3/4 holes in them .. mid shaft .. what is the purpose? i have nothing that fits there ! Les Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted October 21, 2020 Author Share Posted October 21, 2020 Hi Les, Here's a few more shots with closeups. The first photo has an arrow which shows the bolt I put in to lock the luggage rack in position. I think there was a pin originally so that when pulled out you could lower the rack. The bolt pics maybe what you are missing ? Post a photo of what your looking at in relation to the bracket arms. So many different terms I get confused. Another thing you may not have are support arms so when the luggage rack is lowered ( permantely ) there are two arms that bolt to the rack at each end which then bolt to the bumper bar. A lot of people don't even know these exist. The little rubber piece you'll see in the 7th photo I put there to stop the rack vibrating. Let me know how you go. Easy to get photos now I have a hoist !!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted October 21, 2020 Author Share Posted October 21, 2020 Your like me....pictures are gold arn't they !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 North of the equator we call them shoulder bolts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lescor Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 Ian .. do you recognize these .?? don’t have a clue .. could they be the luggage rack supports? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lescor Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 Yep .. thru are the luggage rack supports .. I found the pic I’m my original archives Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted October 22, 2020 Author Share Posted October 22, 2020 These are the supports so when the luggage rack is folded down and you put heavy things on it ( and the rack is down in a permanent position ) these bolt to the rack and the bumper bar bolts. The rack has to be DOWN for these to fit. You can't have these fitted if you have the rack up ( unless you want them just hanging there incase you put the rack down ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lescor Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 They fasten to the bumper bolt .. but where on the luggage rack ? i “remember” the rack folding up and down when they were on .. ??? Hen I dust examines the car .. My pictures suggest they were attached to the end of the horizontal support rod .. ?? any of that make sense ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lescor Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 Of course maybe I removed the bumper and hardware first?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lescor Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 They fasten to the bumper bolt .. but where on the luggage rack ? i “remember” the rack folding up and down when they were on .. ??? Hen I dust examines the car .. My pictures suggest they were attached to the end of the horizontal support rod .. ?? any of that make sense ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lescor Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 I checked the fitting and it seems they would fit near the end of the rod .. either inside or outside .. most likely outside ... where the rod goes thru the main bracket to me that makes sense since it would give the rack some triangular support and be permanent .. funny ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lescor Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 Here are the two photos from original purchase .. not that it means they are correct .. .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lescor Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 10 minutes ago, Lescor said: They fasten to the bumper bolt .. but where on the luggage rack ? i “remember” the rack folding up and down when they were on .. ??? Hen I dust examines the car .. My pictures suggest they were attached to the end of the horizontal support rod .. ?? any of that make sense ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted October 23, 2020 Author Share Posted October 23, 2020 That sounds right. The rod that goes through the rack brackets and then onto the bumper bar brackets. Does that fit your brackets ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lescor Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 Yes it as appears that the supports pictured above are the correct length and angle to bolt onto the bumper bracket and then bolt into the the luggage rack rod .. now I have to take the bumper off and see where it can attach with out interfering with the bracket cover plates .. and/or allowing the bracket covers to fit .. I think you know what I’m referring to .??:))) geez .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted October 24, 2020 Author Share Posted October 24, 2020 Decided to pull all the temporary wiring out of the car. Connected all its own wiring and started to test a few things. As soon as I connected the battery up the horns started to go off ( damn near gave me a heart attack ). Hmmmm, considering the horn button on the steering wheel isn't connected is a bit odd. Anyhow, pulled the wires for the horn off the live terminal and that shut them up. Tested a few things....headlights tested ok. Looked a bit dull until I stood in front of them now all I can see are spots ! Tested the lights on the instrument panel, they look pretty cool. Interior light tested ok. The wipers didn't work, then I realised I haven't put a fuse in the connector. Did that and they worked too. So far so good. Rear tail lights lit up. ( can't check the brake lights as no brake cylinders on the back...still waiting for the painter to redo the backing plates ). Tried the indicators.....nope, nothing. Checked all the connections and still nothing. tested with my multimeter and got power everywhere. I'll leave that for another day. A milestone reached so happy with the wiring I've done and what is working. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 8 hours ago, Ian_Greenlaw said: . . . The wipers didn't work, then I realised I haven't put a fuse in the connector. Did that and they worked too. . . You have electric wipers on your '34 Dodge? Is that something the Australian cars had that we missed out on in the United States? Or was that retrofitted later by some previous owner? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lescor Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 Trunk rack support mounting: pictures should do the trick support fits without stress .. attached behind the bumper bracket .. les Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lescor Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 Due to minimal clearance with the body the supporting arm might best be attached OUTSIDE the bumper bracket .. this may interfere with placement of the base cap and cover Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted October 25, 2020 Author Share Posted October 25, 2020 Always something, isn't there Les !!! Ply33 - Originals on the Dodge were vaccum. Mine didn't have any when I got the car but the previous owner had some smallish 6v ones. Its taken a lot of work due to the distance between the body and the header panel as most will simply not fit in the space. Once finished the only thing different will be the missing vaccum hose. Interesting thing, my body ( Budd Body ) only came with one wiper arm hole over the drivers side. The guy that did the body work put one over the passenger side to even them up. I bought a switch which has a similar pull button as the vaccum switches that sits in the same place as the header panel. When everything is finished it should look the part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lescor Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 Ian .. Do you have a picture showing how the windshield hinge mounts to the windshield frame the large flange seems to screw into the interior header area where the are two holes Spaced 2 1/4” apart .. that leaves the small flange with two holes to fasten to the windshield .. right?? tx .. les Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted October 26, 2020 Author Share Posted October 26, 2020 Hi Les, Leave it with me as I haven't mounted the header board so I should be able to get some sort of a shot for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now