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About Bullfrog_eng

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  • Birthday 11/25/1952

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    Murray Bridge, South Australia

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  1. Couple of pictures from different DA's that I have seen (note that they have different rim clamps). Hope it helps.
  2. I am restoring a trunk manufactured by the Watts-Morehouse Company, please see photos. My problem (at the moment!!) is that part of the lid “stay” has been broken off and is missing. At this stage I am not sure if it is actually a stay or if it is just intended to stop the lid opening too far. I have seen a photo that shows one at each side of the trunk, but it is very unclear. Mine, however only has one on the right hand side of the trunk, please see arrows on the second photo, showing what is left of my stay (if that is what it is) and the mounting point on the lid. I am hopeful that someone here may have a similar trunk and could take a photo of the complete “stay” so that I can make a new one. Overall measurement would also be helpful. Any help most appreciated. John
  3. I know much , if not all of this may not be applicable to your steering box, but may be worth a read. Not sure if yours is the same, but the most important thing to realize with the DA box is that free play must be minimal in the "straight ahead" position but increases dramatically towards either right or left lock. This is normal to ensure that the car does not wander when driving on a straight road. Good luck
  4. Appreciate the update, I have been wondering as well. Good luck.
  5. Lucky indeed. Thanks, from all this information and photos I feel I have a pretty clear grasp of what it SHOULD look like and realise the tube in my mate's vehicle has been butchered. The front section on the RHS of the engine has been broken away and the water gallery behind exposed, the tube is actually bent back around the casting, leaving a hole big enough to easily put your thumb through (if your thumb is flexible enough to get there!!). This I feel is allowing too much water to bypass the water distribution tube. The only real fix is to replace the tube, which is probably a good thing as I think we will wreck it to get it out. As it is wrecked already, this is not a problem. Thanks everyone for your help. John
  6. Thanks, I had not found that thread and it is very helpful. Have modified your photo to show what I am talking about. "Tabs" is obviously the tabs to stop the tube going back too far, but my concern is the point I have marked "A". Does the tube finish flush at the front of the block? At this point I can put my finger into the water jacket to the left (right side of engine) as the tube finishes back about 3/4 inch from front of block on that side. Are tubes available in Australia? Thanks for your help.
  7. Now I don't profess to know much about Packards, but have just been helping a mate (who also does not know much!) with his 1946 Clipper. He has an overheating problem and I know this has been raised before, but I have not been able to find any pictures of the water distribution tubes. I am familiar with the Dodge situation, but not specifically Packard. The water pump has been removed and I attempted to remove the distribution tube, but it is stuck and I feel any more attempts will damage it. But my question is this. When standing at the front of the car looking towards the rear, the water distribution tube has tabs bent towards the left of the car which would be behind the water pump, to stop the tube going any further in. To the right of the car, there are no tabs and a gap that one can put your finger in into the water jacket. Is this right? It would seem to bypass water from going through the tube and into the head. Sorry, I have no photos, and the car is some distance away. Hope someone can enlighten a couple of poor Aussi dills. Thanks, John
  8. Very sorry to hear that. It's a bugger, this getting old business. My wife says "I thought getting old would take longer". Hope you get some good luck soon.
  9. Glad to see you had success. Yes, that Cord is certainly a beauty.
  10. Tube method should work, also have often found heating and chilling (with water) helps, particularly if you can work out which studs are stuck. Heat stud and area of manifold directly adjacent to it, get stud red hot. Use oxy torch or similar. Then chill with water and let it cool down completely. May require a couple of attempts. If you need a few attempts, it may not do the stud much good, but if it is that bad you may need to replace the stud anyway. See what it looks like when you get it apart. Good luck. John
  11. Ken, I for one find this stuff very interesting, not to mention helpful in showing perhaps other methods in doing things that I may not have thought of. Good luck and keep at it. John
  12. No problem Ron. I believe they are the same regardless of Richards or Budd bodies, so presumably they came out with the chassis for Richards. I have one of each and they are identical.