Bullfrog_eng

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About Bullfrog_eng

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  • Birthday 11/25/1952

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  • Location:
    Murray Bridge, South Australia

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  1. I agree it MAY be a condenser. I had been playing with cars for 40 years before I encountered a crook condenser, actually two in quick succession. The first one nearly drove me round the bend over several months, seemed just like fuel starvation, but very intermittent. I had the carbi off so many times, I considered putting wing nuts on it!! Mate told me to change the condenser and that fixed it straight away. Easy to replace and won't cost much to prove one way or the other.
  2. Yep, that looks more like it. I had not attempted the rear ones as I was convinced the measurements I had for the front were wrong, and thanks to you, I know they were. In actual fact, the measurements I had for the rear were not far wrong. All good now. Thanks again Bob.
  3. Thanks Bob, that is a big help. Will have a look this morning and let you know how I get on.
  4. Still have not got any info on the straps. Would really appreciate anyone with a DA taking a couple of quick measurements for me (rear are longer than front I believe). Many thanks. John
  5. I am making up some shock absorber straps for my 1929 DA. I have some measurements, but I do not remember where they came from and I am not sure they are correct. I have made up one strap for the front and to me it looks a bit long. Can anyone advise the correct measurements and how the measurements are taken please? Thanks, John
  6. Matt, I do my own zinc plating, but it is fairly easy as most of the stuff I do is relatively small (nuts, bolts, brackets, wheel nuts and clamps, etc.) and can be done in a 10 litre bucket. For much the same reason as you do your plating, plus it is about a 200 Km return trip to visit the platers. But I have never got into nickel. But here is another incentive for you (in case you need one!) I recently had my front and rear bumpers chromed, along with the clamp plates and a couple of other minor bits. Now the bumpers were pretty rough and I spent a lot of time straightening them, but they came up quite good. They were still very badly pitted, however, and would have needed a lot of work by the platers, not to mention many coats of copper, before chroming. Cost, $2660!! They now do look good though.
  7. Good one! I had never thought of doing that, but I wish I had. My panel work is finished, at least for a while. Keep it in mind though for next time.
  8. Bob, I think the carb that Myers supply is produced by Glen Smith in Queensland, Australia. It is worth noting that as well as complete carburetors, he can supply parts, for example just the bowl top. In other words, if yours is not bad, but only needs a new bowl top, he can supply it. That is what I did, the throat was OK, but there were some parts that Glen suggested strengthening with Devcon Plastic Steel and I then replaced the base and float top with his reproductions. Have a look at his site https://vintageandclassicreproductions.com/ It is worth noting that with the state of the exchange rate (at the moment $1 US = $1.59AUS) it may not be as bad as you think. I have also seen some that were in pretty good condition and some that were absolutely stuffed. I suspect this may be dependent on the environment that they have been in. My suggestion would be to keep using yours if it is not too bad and/or upgrade the bits that are not too good. Picking up spares from swap meets/ebay is also a good idea, as you sometimes see some pretty bad ones for sale, but fittings, jets, etc are OK and if you do need a Glen Smith repro, you will need to supply those bits anyway. Hope that helps. John
  9. Looks to be coming along nicely, Ian. Is that someone locally doing the woodgrain? John
  10. Great looking sign. I have not seen one like it in Australia but they could be around. A couple of years ago someone posted one similar on this forum and Taylormade expertly reproduced a perfected copy. As I am unlikely to come across one (or be able to afford it if I did!!!), I had a copy made for my shed. Looks nearly as good as the bloke holding it. John
  11. Some years ago, I wanted to have my DA springs reset. I went to Industrial Springs in Adelaide (who I had used before for a number of different spring issues) but they convinced me to have a new set made. They had all the data on early vehicle springs and were able to manufacture a new set from their records to OEM specs. Unfortunately Industrial Springs closed down a few years ago, however I understand that Sealeys Spring Works in Mount Gambier (in the South East of South Australia) bought some of Industrial Springs equipment and also their spring specifications when they closed down. Spoke to the owner of the business a couple of years ago and he seemed very helpful. They claim to have been manufacturing springs for over a century. May be worth a phone call if you can't get what you want locally (https://www.sealeysspringworks.com.au/) John
  12. That's a very significant milestone, good luck to you. Have they indicated how long it might take?
  13. Sounds like an offer too good to refuse. Would love a copy thanks.John Bullfrog.eng@gmail.com
  14. Thanks, I missed it. Looked a number of times, too. Wife would say I should have had a girls look!! The only manual I have is the copy I got from the Chrysler Historical collection (USA) around 45 years ago so I would think it is the same as the one you have, it is certainly left hand drive. I have never seen an "Export" or RHD version and do not know if they exist or not, although DA manuals are pretty rare over here anyway. I have probably only seen a couple in that time. Because of the relatively low numbers exported to Australia, most makes just used the USA version, although I cannot say if Dodge did so. For example, I have an owners manual for a 1936 DeSoto (I have the car as well) and am pretty sure it is the manual that came with the car from new and it is a Richards (Australian) bodied car as well. Again, thanks for putting me straight.
  15. Thanks for replies on oil quantity. I could not find any quantity listed in the owners manual and from past experiences I am reluctant to trust dip stick alone. Who knows that it is the correct dip stick for that engine or has not been modified. I want to fill an engine that has been reconditioned so there is no sludge. Thanks again.