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Bullfrog_eng

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About Bullfrog_eng

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  • Location:
    Murray Bridge, South Australia

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  1. Looking great, but if the weather is anything like here (and I will send it across) your primer will take a couple of weeks to dry!! Hell, I was cold in the shed today.
  2. Photo of mine painted to match the car.
  3. Thanks, Senator. Yours looks slightly different to mine, but only very slightly and in better condition too. I thought mine was not too bad until I stipped it to restore. Never the less, it has come up quite good and is now mounted on my DA Dodge. One of my latches was not repairable, so I have had to use some that were similar but slightly smaller. They turned out OK as well. I eventually gave up on the stay that holds open the lid and have used a piece of chain as a temporary measure. A close up of one of your stays would be really appreciated. Tomorrow I will take a photo of my tr
  4. This is what I used. It is the original filter that was fitted to my DA, it is one with a removable cartridge that can be cleaned (some were not able to be dismantled, ie. throw away type), but modified. Glenn Smith (Vintage and Classic Reproductions) used to produce a reproduction top that is machined to take a modern filter. Looks just like it did but works a lot better!! I do not see one in his current catalogue, but if he made them once, I would think he would still do so. First picture shows original dismantled (the three parts to the left, with a "throw away type on the right),
  5. I agree it MAY be a condenser. I had been playing with cars for 40 years before I encountered a crook condenser, actually two in quick succession. The first one nearly drove me round the bend over several months, seemed just like fuel starvation, but very intermittent. I had the carbi off so many times, I considered putting wing nuts on it!! Mate told me to change the condenser and that fixed it straight away. Easy to replace and won't cost much to prove one way or the other.
  6. Yep, that looks more like it. I had not attempted the rear ones as I was convinced the measurements I had for the front were wrong, and thanks to you, I know they were. In actual fact, the measurements I had for the rear were not far wrong. All good now. Thanks again Bob.
  7. Thanks Bob, that is a big help. Will have a look this morning and let you know how I get on.
  8. Still have not got any info on the straps. Would really appreciate anyone with a DA taking a couple of quick measurements for me (rear are longer than front I believe). Many thanks. John
  9. I am making up some shock absorber straps for my 1929 DA. I have some measurements, but I do not remember where they came from and I am not sure they are correct. I have made up one strap for the front and to me it looks a bit long. Can anyone advise the correct measurements and how the measurements are taken please? Thanks, John
  10. Matt, I do my own zinc plating, but it is fairly easy as most of the stuff I do is relatively small (nuts, bolts, brackets, wheel nuts and clamps, etc.) and can be done in a 10 litre bucket. For much the same reason as you do your plating, plus it is about a 200 Km return trip to visit the platers. But I have never got into nickel. But here is another incentive for you (in case you need one!) I recently had my front and rear bumpers chromed, along with the clamp plates and a couple of other minor bits. Now the bumpers were pretty rough and I spent a lot of time straightening them, b
  11. Good one! I had never thought of doing that, but I wish I had. My panel work is finished, at least for a while. Keep it in mind though for next time.
  12. Bob, I think the carb that Myers supply is produced by Glen Smith in Queensland, Australia. It is worth noting that as well as complete carburetors, he can supply parts, for example just the bowl top. In other words, if yours is not bad, but only needs a new bowl top, he can supply it. That is what I did, the throat was OK, but there were some parts that Glen suggested strengthening with Devcon Plastic Steel and I then replaced the base and float top with his reproductions. Have a look at his site https://vintageandclassicreproductions.com/ It is worth noting that with the state
  13. Looks to be coming along nicely, Ian. Is that someone locally doing the woodgrain? John
  14. Great looking sign. I have not seen one like it in Australia but they could be around. A couple of years ago someone posted one similar on this forum and Taylormade expertly reproduced a perfected copy. As I am unlikely to come across one (or be able to afford it if I did!!!), I had a copy made for my shed. Looks nearly as good as the bloke holding it. John
  15. Some years ago, I wanted to have my DA springs reset. I went to Industrial Springs in Adelaide (who I had used before for a number of different spring issues) but they convinced me to have a new set made. They had all the data on early vehicle springs and were able to manufacture a new set from their records to OEM specs. Unfortunately Industrial Springs closed down a few years ago, however I understand that Sealeys Spring Works in Mount Gambier (in the South East of South Australia) bought some of Industrial Springs equipment and also their spring specifications when they closed down. Sp
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