Bullfrog_eng

Some years ago, I wanted to have my DA springs reset. I went to Industrial Springs in Adelaide (who I had used before for a number of different spring issues) but they convinced me to have a new set made. They had all the data on early vehicle springs and were able to manufacture a new set from their records to OEM specs. Unfortunately Industrial Springs closed down a few years ago, however I understand that Sealeys Spring Works in Mount Gambier (in the South East of South Australia) bought some of Industrial Springs equipment and also their spring specifications when they closed down. Spoke to the owner of the business a couple of years ago and he seemed very helpful. They claim to have been manufacturing springs for over a century. May be worth a phone call if you can't get what you want locally (https://www.sealeysspringworks.com.au/) John

That's a very significant milestone, good luck to you. Have they indicated how long it might take?

Sounds like an offer too good to refuse. Would love a copy thanks.John Bullfrog.eng@gmail.com

Thanks, I missed it. Looked a number of times, too. Wife would say I should have had a girls look!! The only manual I have is the copy I got from the Chrysler Historical collection (USA) around 45 years ago so I would think it is the same as the one you have, it is certainly left hand drive. I have never seen an "Export" or RHD version and do not know if they exist or not, although DA manuals are pretty rare over here anyway. I have probably only seen a couple in that time. Because of the relatively low numbers exported to Australia, most makes just used the USA version, although I cannot say if Dodge did so. For example, I have an owners manual for a 1936 DeSoto (I have the car as well) and am pretty sure it is the manual that came with the car from new and it is a Richards (Australian) bodied car as well. Again, thanks for putting me straight.

Thanks for replies on oil quantity. I could not find any quantity listed in the owners manual and from past experiences I am reluctant to trust dip stick alone. Who knows that it is the correct dip stick for that engine or has not been modified. I want to fill an engine that has been reconditioned so there is no sludge. Thanks again.

While on this subject, can anyone advise quantity of oil the DA engine holds (with/without filter). Cannot see in any of the info I have what this should be. Thanks.

Couple of pictures from different DA's that I have seen (note that they have different rim clamps). Hope it helps.

I am restoring a trunk manufactured by the Watts-Morehouse Company, please see photos. My problem (at the moment!!) is that part of the lid “stay” has been broken off and is missing. At this stage I am not sure if it is actually a stay or if it is just intended to stop the lid opening too far. I have seen a photo that shows one at each side of the trunk, but it is very unclear. Mine, however only has one on the right hand side of the trunk, please see arrows on the second photo, showing what is left of my stay (if that is what it is) and the mounting point on the lid. I am hopeful that someone here may have a similar trunk and could take a photo of the complete “stay” so that I can make a new one. Overall measurement would also be helpful. Any help most appreciated. John

That's fantastic. All the best

I know much , if not all of this may not be applicable to your steering box, but may be worth a read. Not sure if yours is the same, but the most important thing to realize with the DA box is that free play must be minimal in the "straight ahead" position but increases dramatically towards either right or left lock. This is normal to ensure that the car does not wander when driving on a straight road. Good luck

Appreciate the update, I have been wondering as well. Good luck.

Lucky indeed. Thanks, from all this information and photos I feel I have a pretty clear grasp of what it SHOULD look like and realise the tube in my mate's vehicle has been butchered. The front section on the RHS of the engine has been broken away and the water gallery behind exposed, the tube is actually bent back around the casting, leaving a hole big enough to easily put your thumb through (if your thumb is flexible enough to get there!!). This I feel is allowing too much water to bypass the water distribution tube. The only real fix is to replace the tube, which is probably a good thing as I think we will wreck it to get it out. As it is wrecked already, this is not a problem. Thanks everyone for your help. John

And slippin away from me.

Let's not talk about age!! Thanks

Thanks, I had not found that thread and it is very helpful. Have modified your photo to show what I am talking about. "Tabs" is obviously the tabs to stop the tube going back too far, but my concern is the point I have marked "A". Does the tube finish flush at the front of the block? At this point I can put my finger into the water jacket to the left (right side of engine) as the tube finishes back about 3/4 inch from front of block on that side. Are tubes available in Australia? Thanks for your help.