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Bullfrog_eng

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Everything posted by Bullfrog_eng

  1. Richard, John may have already sent you this info, but I think what you are looking for is Did this for my DA and works well so far, but I have only driven a few hundred yards!!
  2. What bad luck, I'm at a loss to know what to say. Feel your pain, best wishes. John
  3. Don't pretend to know much about 4 cyl Dodges, but over the years have found a partially blocked main jet can show those symptoms. Revs OK on no load but does not get enough fuel under load, so backfires, etc. Just a thought. John
  4. Ron, the last one I bought from my local Autopro shop. If you can't get one local let me know and I will send one over. John
  5. In case someone is not sure what I mean, here is an example of the "sock" type.
  6. I have always added a "sock" to the top radiator hose when rebuilding an engine or cooling system to catch any of the bits of rust and gunk that seem to remain regardless of how well I think I have cleaned everything. I would hate to have anything clog up a nice clean radiator. There are a number of filters available as well, but I prefer the "sock" type that are made for the job because they are almost unnoticable in an old cooling system. The filter type look too modern for me (like phillip head screws!! )
  7. Will be really interested how you get on. I am still probably a couple of weeks away from putting this into practice for myself. I have been giving it a lot of thought, but it is the doing that counts.
  8. Just had a look at my 1936 DeSoto (Richards body) out of interest and the large end of the spring presses against the door card and does not pass through it, so only a small hole needed. What does all this mean? Maybe depends on the flexibility of the door card you are using. I think I would prefer to press on the door card if you can get away with it.
  9. Not sure they are all done the same, but with the DA, the spring definitely passes through the door card and presses the wadding and (in my case) fabric against the escutcheon, that is, the hole in the door card is roughly the size of the spring. I recon, though, that I have seen others done as Kevin says. Be interesting to see if you still have one of your old ones that can tell us.
  10. Ian, as Kevin says, but you may be able to work them in through the holes that you have for the handle/winders by "winding" them in. They need to push the fabric/leather against the escutcheon which in turn presses against the winder/handle so it is all tight with no gaps. In theory the springs should be fitted before/as the door cards are fitted, but you may be lucky. My DA is at the motor trimmer at the moment but I have tried with my old door cards and I recon I would be able to get the springs in through the holes if I had to. The holes in the door cards need to be large enough for the springs to poke trough the door cards and bear on the fabric/leather though. Gee, I hope I have explained this OK. Have added a photo of one of my old door cards, this is the door side, fabric is on the other side but you can see where it is folded over onto the back where the A is. Good luck.
  11. Had a phone call from a mate who misunderstood what I meant (it happens a lot!!!). This may help. This is the way I THINK it goes. And again, if anyone can confirm or otherwise, that would be appreciated.
  12. Ian, I asked the same question re my DA. I THINK the springs go as you have shown them, but I had hoped someone could confirm that. Certainly looking good! John
  13. Thanks, yes I had thought of that and may still do so, I just wondered if anyone knew of a source of bits. But you are right, it is the best option I have at this stage.
  14. Decided it was time to organise some window blinds for the DA, so they are ready when it comes back from the motor trimmer. The problem is that I only have two, one for the rear side window, one for the rear window. I do have a complete set (6 ends) of Dodge original blind holders though. I also have a couple of household type Holland/roller blinds that I have collected over the years, but again I have only two, not three. The originals are about 19mm outside diameter of the tube, the household type are about 25.5mm diameter. This would be OK, and they are long enough that I could make three out of the tube that I have, but I would need another pair of ends, with the spring mechanism as well. That is where I run into problems. It seems almost all the modern blinds are about 38 or 45mm diameter and in my opinion they are just too large. I have had a look on line and the only 26 mm mechanisms/end that I can find are the chain drive type, which look wrong. The larger tube blinds look wrong too, so I am stuck at the moment. Have been looking in second hand shops around her, but have not found any yet. I also don't want to have a mixture of the two sizes, as that would not look right either. Obviously the household type I have are old and not commonly used anymore. I am not worried about the Fabric as I can get that OK. So, I either need another complete tube/mechanism in the original DA size of 19mm, or a pair of ends/mechanism in the 25,5mm size. Does anyone know where they may be available? Thanks, John
  15. From the manual. I think my pressure is too high also, but I have not touched anything yet, as I want to take the car on a decent run to make sure it is properly warmed up. Can't do that yet as it is not registered for road use. I am also unsure of the accuracy of the standard gauge, so will use a suitable accurate one when I adjust it. Will be interested how you get on. John
  16. Ron,it is about 4mm thick and flat. It is just normal flat belting used on stationary engines, machinery etc. comes in various thicknesses though, as well as widths of course. What I used was a bit wider, but cut down OK to the size I wanted. Being belting, it is very strong and good for when you want to put screws through it or whatever.
  17. Bob, I used some flat belt material, used on some farm machinery. I riveted the metal cross piece (as in photos above) to it then covered the strap with large electrical shrink sleeve, because I did not think the strap looked that good in its natural state. It is nice and stiff, so pushes into the door nicely and does not "kink". I bought the strap from my bearing/machinery parts supply place an the shrink sleeve from an electrical goods supplier that supplies to the trades. Good luck, John
  18. With Cyl 1 on TDC (firing). adjust valves Cyl 1 Both Cyl 2 I/L Cyl 3 Ex Cyl 4 I/L Cyl 5 Both With Cyl 6 on TDC (firing). adjust valves Cyl 2 Both Cyl 3 I/L Cyl 4 Ex Cyl 5 I/L Cyl 6 Both The above lists the valves in cylinder numbers, rather than valves "1-12". Note some valves listed twice. You do not need to adjust twice, once is enough, thanks very much!!!! I adjusted mine before I fitted the front fenders, so I know where you are coming from. I also adjusted "cold", for a couple of reasons. The owners manual says "warm", whatever that is. To adjust "hot" I figured would bet detrimental to my hands, but as well, I found that the adjustments are so tedious and took me so long to do, the engine would be cold by the time I finished anyway. Better to have everything at the same temperature to make sure all adjustments done on a level playing field. I set my I/L at 8 thou, Ex 10 thou. Hope this helps, good luck. John
  19. Matt, I am confused just what my Blue actually looks like, it changes depending on what light falls on it!! You are right though, looks similar to what you have used. I cheated with the striping. I used a Beugler tool on the wheels, but tape on the body. I tried the Beugler on the body, but had difficulty doing the large curve on the cowl. I think I am just too stiff an old bugger to be able to do it smoothly these days. I used "Finesse Stencil striping tape". It works great, I used a similar tape years ago, was OK if you sprayed the paint on, but if you brushed it on it would bleed under the tape and leave a jagged edge. This Finesse stuff is brilliant, I used sign writing paint and it brushes on fine with no bleed. Means there is no masking up, the tape is two strips with a top tape, put it in place then peel off the top tape and you are left with the two strips of tape to brush the paint between, lots of different types and thicknesses. I have not found anywhere in Australia to buy it, but Jacksons art supplies in the UK are very good to deal with and very prompt, but Covid slowed the last postage down a lot. Tried a couple of places in US for the same stuff but postage terribly expensive and customers service seemed unknown to them. Sorry if you have a better solution to all this, feel free to disregard, because your Victory looks great. John
  20. Here is a photo of how I did mine. They are as close as I could get to what I have seen in photos and also the very original DA that I know of. Bearing in mind of course that each one was probably a bit different anyway. Also period picture of phaeton (again not that good quality) which would appear to have only one stripe.
  21. Yes, not a very good photo in that it is not really clear enough and even worse after I scanned it!. If you look closely, though, the pin stripes are quite thin, about 1/8 inch, but do not "separate" the colours. They are entirely on the swage itself, both at the top and bottom of the swage about 3/16 inch in from the "crease", so that there are two pin stripes when they converge on the bonnet. Have tried to zoom in a bit , not sure if this will show a bit better. I have seen a very original Budd DA with original paint and it was done just as in the photo. But as I said, Richards may have done entirely differently.
  22. Matt, not really much help as it is a Budd body, but here is a photo of a sedan I got from Chrysler historical probably 50 years ago. Have no idea what Richards did. By the way, love the picture (on page 2) of the painted wheels on a Richards waste skip. Deliberate?
  23. Someone from England is called a "Pom" in Australia, thus "Pommy Car" is one that originated in England. Mind you, I like the idea that we all have our own terms for things, maintains our sense of identity. Occurs within countries as well of course, some time back I worked in Sydney in my lifelong industry (Telecommunications) and they also had different names for things. Took me months to work some of them out.
  24. You blokes should get a Pommy (British) car as well to really help the confusion. Meaning the same thing of course are Wings/Mudguards/Fenders, Lights/Windows, Boots/Gaiters, etc. etc. Really keeps you on your toes. Maybe that's why I sold my Pommy car!
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