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1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration


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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Jesse,

You never know.....as the title says....slow progress !!!

Got the copper pipe and bent it to the correct shape.

Now if I thought about it earlier this should have been one of the first things I put in the car....not one of the last.

So it took my brother and I about an hour to position it in such a place we could get it through the firewall.

I'll have to remove the holding clamp when I put the grommet surround on it but at least its set up for the time being.

When I finished that I was able to set up and install the right side block and surround around the choke cables.

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  • 3 months later...

Well thought I was being clever and fitting the temperature sensor in the block. I forgot about the solid surround for the grommet didn't I !!

Drain the radiator, pull the sensor out and feed it through the surround and put it back again. Lesson learned.

 

I went to straighten the free wheeling cable that was given to me by Tony ( Tinkeys ) and of course it snaps when I tried to straighten it didn't it.

Found a guy who recommended me to another guy about where to get one made. Dropped it off and the next day I get a phone call....its ready to pick up !

 

Fitted it in the car ( the dash board fitting first ) so that now completes the control knobs fitted to the dash. :)

 

Also found a guy in New Zealand that does hubcaps and he's made a die for the 34's, so I'm in the process of following that up.

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2 hours ago, Taylormade said:

Looking good!  Do you have the rubber insert for the surround?  Mine are in bad shape.  I was thinking about casting my own since it's a simple shape.

 

Looks like the same shape holder as for my '33 Plymouth (though I thought mine should be painted black rather than being plated). I've also considered casting my own from something like Flexane. Any chance we can team up on that?

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13 hours ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:

Well thought I was being clever and fitting the temperature sensor in the block. I forgot about the solid surround for the grommet didn't I !!

Drain the radiator, pull the sensor out and feed it through the surround and put it back again. Lesson learned.

 

I went to straighten the free wheeling cable that was given to me by Tony ( Tinkeys ) and of course it snaps when I tried to straighten it didn't it.

Found a guy who recommended me to another guy about where to get one made. Dropped it off and the next day I get a phone call....its ready to pick up !

 

Fitted it in the car ( the dash board fitting first ) so that now completes the control knobs fitted to the dash. :)

 

Also found a guy in New Zealand that does hubcaps and he's made a die for the 34's, so I'm in the process of following that up.

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Nice work. Can you take a picture with the windshield crank being the main focus?  We're looking to reproduce them.

Thanks

Dave

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12 hours ago, ply33 said:

 

Looks like the same shape holder as for my '33 Plymouth (though I thought mine should be painted black rather than being plated). I've also considered casting my own from something like Flexane. Any chance we can team up on that?

Sure.  I cast some Flexane spring bumpers for my 29 Plymouth years ago, and they were bonded to a steel plate.  These should be a breeze.  I'll take some measurements and get back to you.

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Hi Dave,

I've taken a few shots so you can get a good look at it. Hope this helps !!

 

Richard. My grommets were in one piece but in halves so I've opted to use the originals and use polyeurethane to seal them once all the cables are in place.

I've used it before and dries solid and is flexable enough to allow for vibration.

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Back to it....finally.

This task today was to install the rubber grommet ( the two pieces I have ) without scratching the firewall.

I think I got all 3 connections through the block ok and everything is tightened up.

Last week I sent away my hubcap bases to a guy in New Zealand who is making new skins for them. I'll post pictures when I get them back.

Has anyone remade the little rollers that sit inside the drivers and passenger front doors ? I have the right size tubing but the hole is too big and I need some sort of round spacer.

 

Cheers

Ian

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Finally connected the oil pressure gauge line both behind the instrument panel and into the block. The red wire in front will disappear once the correct wiring is hooked up.

Also pulled apart the wind out window that cracked and I'll replace that as soon as I get a new one.

 

This is a 1934 Chrysler Roadster that the guy who did my body work owns. He's put it together temporarily so he can find a buyer. ( $40k to $50k ). Body is done and a lot of hard to find things too !

 

Cheers

 

Ian

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  • 1 year later...

G'day Ian.

Going back to page 18, you used Selleys D-Mastic to seal your roof insert. Two questions, roughly how much did you use, was one tube (400 gm) enough? Also, has this skinned off enough to be not damaged by washing, chamois, etc.

About to tackle this for the DA, not something I am looking forward to I must admit!

Thanks,

John

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  • 5 months later...
  • 10 months later...

Sorry guys its been a while since I posted. Family and life really gets in the way sometimes as you probably know very well !! Visited my Niece while in London and she's getting married next year and has asked if she could ride in the Dodge. Now I'm really under the pump !!

Getting back into it so here we go......two jobs I have not been looking forward to doing :

First I had to replaced the cracked rear glass in the wind out window due to it binding on the rubber seal when wound in. I pulled the existing frame out and got the glass out of the frame and has a new piece made. Reinstalled it in the frame and reinstalled it. It took two full days of constantly adjusting the rubber seal to get it in a position so the window would not bind on the rubber seal. Once completed I filled the gaps between the rubber seal and the body with Black Polyurethane and then used my daughters facial wipes ( much to their disgust ) soaked in Kerosene to smooth it over and give the blended appearance so it all looks one piece. Now dry works like a charm.

Second and one I' admit I've been avoiding was to replace the damaged lever and cam on the front passenger and driver side windows. When we first peened the brass pin over that holds these in place we chipped the chrome work on both the lever and cam. I had to grind the lever off and remove the pin and then grind the cam off as well, had strip them back and fine sand them and have them replated. Use some brass rounds for a pin and reshaped the ends to fit through the holes in the lever and cam. Peened them over very carefully this time and hope this will do the trick.

The front windows have a weird mechanism where when you wind the window down the entire frame drops down, HOWEVER, when the vent window is open and you wind the window down, a locking mechanism activates only allowing the fixed glass portion to wind down. Clever design but a pain in the bum to get working properly. Not only that but all the felt channels and windstrips need to be replaced. Anyone done these on a 34 that has pics ? I have the bailey channel to go inside the door frame but still working on the window. I bough the robbers seals for the vent windows 8 years ago and they fitted like a dream !!

I'll keep you updated.

 

Cheers

Ian  

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1 hour ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:

I keep getting a message I can only upload 9.77mb....is that per post or day....anyone know ?

That is max. photo size and max. total of photo sizes in the post. To post more, leave the topic, go back to Home, come back in again and do another post. Or reduce your photo sizes to about 2000 px across or less.

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11 hours ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:

I keep getting a message I can only upload 9.77mb....is that per post or day....anyone know ?

Maybe shrink the pictures may help, You have been busy, don’t forget the little felt sleeves that go on the window arms, seems to be an anti rattle, application only found one on the front passenger door, the rest must have been remove some time ago, you know that old saying,,,, “ One step forward and 3 steps back””””your 34 looks great nice work,,,

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Thanks guys, I'll give the picture shrinking thing a go. These are the two pictures from the above post I missed.

Steve do you mean the thing that was tack welded to the window frame that had some sort of fabric on it or what was inside the lower part of the window frames ?

The other thing I have to tackle is the anti rattle roller thing ( sorry about the blurry picture ). This has been permanently fitted with the pin holders bent in place. I have to replace the rubber rollers as these are cracked and falling apart.

 

Cheers

Ian

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Actually, Steve, the second photo. You can see the channel inside the window frame from the lever to the left side of the photo. This is where that felt weather stuff was too. I have some sticky backed replacement stuff but not sure how durable the sticky side is.

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Another reason for not working on the Dodge was that our friends were in a pretty bad accident just before Xmas. They had to be cut out of the car. Fortunately only a few broken bones but they have only just finished rehab to get them back on their feet. Spent a bit of time with them. A B-Double Truck hit them head on. Unlicenced, over .05 and on Ice. Model citizen ! As soon as this happened I went out with my daughter and we bought her a safer car than that she was driving. If your trying to guess what car it is, it was a new Toyota RAV 4.

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Ok, so I went to see a guy who sells a small amount of channel etc and I bought some from him. I fits perfectly in the straight part of the frame but not the top and curved part. I've decided to use the channel on one side and felt on the other two sides. Did a temp fitting and everything seems to be ok. I used the same black polyurethane by running a thick bead down the core of the frame channel then a thinner bead on each side and pressed the felt channel in place. I then used the felt strip and doing the same procedure I forced it into the frame but this side I used the old vent window glass as a template to hold the felt in and then clamped it. It will have to wait a week to completely cure then I can see how well it went.

 

Cheers

Ian

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These are some photos of the old original frames. You can see the old weatherstrip on the out side of the frame and the stuff on the inside of the frame as well. Has anyone replaced this and if so with what ?

Also are a few pics of the anti rattle rollers. I believe the one sitting on top of the door goes inside as the screw hole align up. Again anyone got photos of these they can share or ideas ?

 

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Attached are 2 pics of window rollers on my 34 Plymouth PE which appears to be same set up as dodge. 

1st pic is from outside looking in with trim molding unscrewed and moved aside.

2nd pic is from inside looking out which also shows the outer roller which appears to attach from the underside - going to be a fun job putting new rubbers on both.

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I've had to gently prise open one side of the inside roller and remove the sleeve that goes over the metal rod that you can see in the photo. Now all I have to do is get something to replace it ( nothing I have at the moment suits ) and reinstall it without breaking or scratching anything. If your going to repaint your car Steve ( knobless ) fix this first and tape it up prior to painting. All these little things I missed out on as I didn't pull the car to pieces in the first place.

Thanks heaps for the photos guys.....another problem solved.

I have another 4 clip fittings that I have no idea where they belong so I'll post that photo over the next few days.

 

Cheers

Ian

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After the Polyurethane dried I cut along the edge with a scalpel so once done this gave me a good starting point for the curved bit using the template I made. This gave a fairly neat edge...trick is to have a sharp scalpel !! Then using my template and again filling the inside with polyurethane and two smooth beads lining the sides I was able to get the felt to sit inside the channel. I used a few clamps to really compress it in place so now I have to wait a while until it dries to see if it worked.

 

Cheers

Ian

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The moment of truth !! Cut along the felt with a sharp scalpel and it was actually easier than I thought. The only issue I had was getting the wooden template out of the window because along the line some of the polyurethane must have got onto the wood and dried. Using a pair of mutligrips I grabbed the wood and gently tapped the multigrips down and out she came ! So far so good. Now I have to get some felt in the two sides where the window winds up and down at the base of the frame.

 

Cheers

 

Ian

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