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1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration


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When bending the Bailey Channel you find sometimes that the felt won't bend with it and tears across the curved area. Used some of the glue I had and stuck it back and clamped in place using small bulldog clips. Also after relubricating the door lock I was able to get it set up and working properly. Found a grommet I had and spliced it in half. Used this as it protects the paintwork from the outer trim ring and give it a nice finished look.

 

Cheers

Ian

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Finally got all the spring loaded dovetail keepers in place and striker plates so now all the doors shut and lock. Apart from a few adjustments I can now focus on the firewall insulation, steering wheel and getting it ready to send to the Upholsterers. Another big step, all my seats and whatever ws left of the interior was picked up the other day.

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Ok.....still plugging along.

Found the original firewall liner. I was at the Motorclassica car show and they had a display of firewall material that acted as both a liner and soundproofer. Bought a length not realising I have enough for 3 cars so I may use it elsewhere in the car. The guy who owned my car before me cut out a piece of Fibre Pin Up Board and some suedo timber lining board. Imagine trying to get this around the coil and all the wires and cables coming in from the engine bay.  Located suitable screws on the other side of the firewall and replaced with longer ones where necessary. Using the original liner I made up a cardboard template and did a trial fit adjusting here and there. Had to cut one piece out where the front vent drainage tube goes. Layed the cardboard template over the new material and cut this out making slits from the top down to the various holes where the cables protrude. Marked where the bolts went and drilled holes in for them to fit through. After only a few small adjustments it actually fitted better than I thought. I'll probably use some Nylock nuts so the wont come undone with any vibration.

Another task done.

 

Cheers

Ian

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On my '33 Plymouth that is held in place with some metal clips that have a large button head. I think I saw a supplier of those a while back (I reused my original so I didn't pay much attention). Maybe Restoration Specialties as a possible supplier.

 

If you'd like, I can see if I can remove one from my car and get measurements, etc.

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I see you have the nuts on the inside. Should they be there?

 

In my 1939 Studebaker, the liner was fitted in the factory using very long machine screws pushed through from the inside (large washer under the head inside, of course). The person in the engine bay then put the nut on and between them they tightened it. Then the extra length of machine screw was chopped off with wire cutters, just off the nut on the engine side! Fast and scruffy.

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Wow, you'd think the inside of the firewall didn't warrant much attention so I assumed the nut would be there. I think a nice polished head in the engine bay looks nicer than a cut off thread ! who would have known...

 

Thnaks Ply33, a pic of the clips is always helpful.

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To cover over the battery hole in the floor I had a 3mm stainless steel plate made. Using furniture caster holders, I cut one side off so they fitted between where the hole is going and the edge of the timber. Tapped them in place, drilled a hole from the top and polished the top as well as I could. Once the carpet goes in you won't really see this but wanted to make it as strong as possible. I ligned the underside with some very thin stick on felt tape to avoid any rattling.

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3 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

I see you have the nuts on the inside. Should they be there?

 

In my 1939 Studebaker, the liner was fitted in the factory using very long machine screws pushed through from the inside (large washer under the head inside, of course). The person in the engine bay then put the nut on and between them they tightened it. Then the extra length of machine screw was chopped off with wire cutters, just off the nut on the engine side! Fast and scruffy.


That’s the same way they did it on my REO’s. Couldn’t be any uglier, but it’s original. 

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12 hours ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:

Ok.....still plugging along.

Found the original firewall liner. I was at the Motorclassica car show and they had a display of firewall material that acted as both a liner and soundproofer. Bought a length not realising I have enough for 3 cars so I may use it elsewhere in the car. The guy who owned my car before me cut out a piece of Fibre Pin Up Board and some suedo timber lining board. Imagine trying to get this around the coil and all the wires and cables coming in from the engine bay.  Located suitable screws on the other side of the firewall and replaced with longer ones where necessary. Using the original liner I made up a cardboard template and did a trial fit adjusting here and there. Had to cut one piece out where the front vent drainage tube goes. Layed the cardboard template over the new material and cut this out making slits from the top down to the various holes where the cables protrude. Marked where the bolts went and drilled holes in for them to fit through. After only a few small adjustments it actually fitted better than I thought. I'll probably use some Nylock nuts so the wont come undone with any vibration.

Another task done.

 

Cheers

Ian

 

(Not an Endorsement)

 

Here is a potential source for a reproduction pre-cut firewall...material is ABS plastic, not original material...they also have every other piece of trim and installation you would need, i.e. Door, trunk, floor, roof....all made of ABS plastic.

 

I think your firewall is on the top of page 22 in the below link.

 

https://www.quietride.com/web/viewer.html?file=https://www.quietride.com/catalogpdfs/mopar_cars_28_48_catalog.pdf

 

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Interesting catalogue, I'll save this and have a good look through it. Your correct, the one on top of page 22 is for the 34 DR model. I'd have to modify it slightly as there are no cutouts for the 2 spare wheel support brackets which sit under the dash on each side ( if you look at my pictures you'll see them cut out on the sides. Also I'd have to cut out the steering column housing as mine is a right hand drive. Freight would also add a significant amount to it. This is why I have to try and source things locally as freight is a killer to get things into this country.

Many thanks for posting this catalogue.....very interesting.

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(Not an Endorsement) 

 

Sure, happy to help Ian.

 

I have worked with them in the past, and they will modify any openings you need, be it LHD or RHD, heater hoses, etc... Just give them the dimensions and location.

 

In fact, I actually screwed up on one set of kick panels (wrong measurements), and they did a do-over for 1/2 price...

 

They are here in Stockton, NorCal, weight is not an issue, weighed less than 10 lbs, problem was dimensions, comes in a big box...

 

Lookin' Great!

Edited by Surf City '38 (see edit history)
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I try and get as close to original as I can get, but having limited funds ( as we all do ) and an even more limited amount of suppliers in Australia, it is tricky trying the get the result I expect.

i did purchase some items many years ago hoping that when the time came that everything fitted in place. Not everything has gone to plan but some things I absolutely thrilled with the result.

One item is the sill covers. I found a guy in the States who made replica ones even with the etched Dodge Emblem. I bought those around 9 years ago. I'll post some pics of those little beauties when I remember where I put them.

Some of the guys that have made things for the car are no longer with us which is sad as those a truly good tradesmen.

 

More to come !!

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Found some original size tubing for the other anti rattle window rollers for the front doors. To get them straight I used bamboo skewers inside them an put them in the microwave for 5 seconds. That heated them up enough to straighten them out. Inserted the two rods and gently tapped them back into the repainted holders. Only problem is they dont seem to fit between the inner door panel to the window...they're about 1/4" too big.....another problem to sort out ! Installed the four little clips that I had that this forum helped me out where they went too. Found and polished the two rear window winder handles and the two front vent window winder handles.

 

Cheers

Ian

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My door sill cover were made by :

 

Donald Kuehn

Door Sills LLC,

I have 2 addresses :

302 Legion Place, Haledon, NJ 07508

United States

or

81 Graham Avenue, North Haledon, NJ 07508

United States

 

Phone (973) 423-1196

 

I bought mine in 2011 and cost me USD$270 which included shipping.

Probably cost a little bit more now !

 

Hope this helps

 

Ian

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well finally the old girl moved and is on her way to the Upholsterer. Been a while since she's seen daylight.

Now I can finally sort out whats left to do and all the finishing pieces.

Hopefully catch up with a fellow 34 owner on Wednesday and going to see someone about an exhaust system.

I literally did not have one that came with the car.

 

Cheers

Ian

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They said 3 months. That allows for them to do other already prebooked jobs etc....also give me time to work on and have ready a number of smaller but fiddly parts.

I'm glad you didn't ask how much......I might end up with the bum ripped out of my pants !

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  • 4 weeks later...

Not a huge amount to report with Xmas and work in the way. When I got the car there was no roof lining, no carpet and one door trim in tact. The seats were badly deteriorated and a few things had been living in them. The upholsterer pulled the front seat apart, blasted and powdercoated it. The other seats are being pullled apart slowly. We've decided on leather for the seats, A light grey for the headlining and a charcoal carpet. Just waiting on them coming back from holidays. The guy doing the hubcaps said due to them being so deep dished they are splitting his molds so he won't be able to make new skins for them. I'll start having a crack at restoring these myself.

 

Cheers

Ian

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4 hours ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:

The guy doing the hubcaps said due to them being so deep dished they are splitting his molds so he won't be able to make new skins for them. I'll start having a crack at restoring these myself.

 

Hi Ian, I have not been able to locate a USA based hub cap restorer, I even reached out to the fellow in NZ, but had no reply.

 

Would you share the name/email of the person you found down there or PM me the contact email. Thanks. Merry Chrissy.

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3 hours ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:

HI,

His name is Dave Patten Replica Manufacturing Ltd, 160 New York Street, Martinborough, NZ Tel 027 247 7956 Email dave.patten@wise.net.au

 

Here's a link to his web site :

http://www.replicahubcaps.co.nz/

 

Cheers

Ian

 

I thought "Great! I should add that to my vendors list". So went to my website, clicked the log in and pulled up the form for editing vendors. And it was already there. Old age is setting in.

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6 hours ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:

HI,

His name is Dave Patten Replica Manufacturing Ltd, 160 New York Street, Martinborough, NZ Tel 027 247 7956 Email dave.patten@wise.net.au

 

Here's a link to his web site :

http://www.replicahubcaps.co.nz/

 

Cheers

Ian

 

 

Yea, that's the fellow I emailed a few months back, and still have not had a reply.

 

I will try again, thanks Ian!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Bit further on the progression of the car. The upholsterer has now cleaned the stripped seats repaired any damaged springs etc...

They then attach what looks like "shade cloth" to the underside to protect the base of the seat.

He made a temporary cover for the seats in black vinyl to get an idea of the pleating pattern in the seats. The buttons have not been installed as this will be done on final assembly.

He does this so he gets and acurate pattern for the seats before he cuts into the leather.......good idea I say !!!

Next step is to start on the headlining.

The guys doing the woodgrain effect on the garnish molds also came back to me and they have base coated all of these. They've done the woodgrain look and once dry will be giving it 2 coats of clear.

Slowly but surely getting there.

 

Cheers

Ian

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Hi John,

Its a guy in Williamstown from a company called Charles Restorations.......google them and you'll see the work that they do.

Wish I could do body work like some of these guys........oh well !!

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Hi Ian, great job have been looking at progress. I may need to pick your brains on people you used for pin strips and woodgrain etc.

I am located in Wangaratta, Victoria.

Peter

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Hi Peter,

The guys doing the woodgraining are not doing small jobs anymore. They do high end full restorations....$100,000 up to $1,000,000. I only saw one of their cars at the motorclassica a number of years ago and asked if they'd do mine. I was lucky I'm the last small job they are doing. I believe Wayne's Woodgraining does a good job. He's in Syndney...02 49573696 or 0407017919.

 

The guy who did the pin striping works with the guy whopainted my car. His name is Dave 0433178708 and his mate Simon.......Dave calls him Simple Simon....ha.....he does the pin striping.

 

Both do a brilliant job.

 

Let me know if you need some more leeds......I'll help where I can.

 

Cheers

Ian

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Hey all,

A bit more progress.... Upholsterer made up some paper templates to get a feel as to the fit of boards he's going to make up. Cut out one of the door backing boards which has a lot of detail drawn on it. There's a lot of indented work and curved pleating ( I suppose you call it that ). He made up a sample wher he cut foam, glued a piece of leather, cut again, glued again etc etc and this gave him an idea of how the indentations would look. Its not the interior colour but just a trial. He needs the garnish molds so he can get the backing board correct height. Baby steps but starting to take shape.

 

Cheers

Ian

 

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Bit more progress.

Bit more testing with the black vinyl and buttons. Original patterns and new boards being marked up and ready to cut out. Sewn leather for the bottom of the rear seat and the rear seat started on. Also picked up the garnish moulds and dropped the door ones off to the upholsterer.

 

Cheers

Ian

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Hi all,

Still chugging along. Thought about the bonnet bump stops and I wasn't really happy with the way they sat. I bought some new ( and expensive ) ones from Steele Rubber. These are the ones with the rivet in them. You can see how they really don't fit. The thickness is also vastly different. There are also two types on the 34 so after parting with $110 I feel better I have the correct ones as I really want the bonnet sides protected.

 

Cheers

Ian

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Hey all,

Dropped into the Upholsterer for my weeky visit to the ole girl. Nothing much happening until I opened the car up and they've done a test fitting of the rear seat. The button haven't been done and a few adjustments to do but overall good progress. The previous owner of the business comes in a day or so to help and give advice.

 

Cheers

Ian

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  • 1 month later...

Hi all,

Bit of an update. While the car is still in the Upholstory shop I've been working on some small projects until she comes back. I've had made up some brackets that I measured and designed to anchor the number plates to the bumper bar iron bolts. I have to finish polishing them and cleaning them up. I also had to bend one slightly so it fits around the bumper bar.

The upholsterer has also made some progress. The front seat is 3/4 done, the carpet is almost finished. They are having trouble with the indented door panels to get the leather to sit tightly. They can do a small area as per the sample in a previous post but a larger area is not holding its shape. They are trying a stiched option. I think it will all work out in the end but have to compromise a bit otherwise the cost will escalate out of control.

 

Cheers

Ian

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi All,

Went and checked on the ole girl today ( dodgng the virus on the way ! ) and a bit more progress. He formed up the rear seat arm rests, made a temproary support to get the size, the completed it with a more solid construction. He's also made some templates for the trim pieces that go above the doors and the pillars on the sides of the doors.

 

Next he said I'll see a big improvement as he's going to fill in the rear luggage section and start to finish off the pieces that go from the headlining to the base of the windows.

 

Also took my hubcap skins to a guy not far from me who after an hour took all the dints out of one of the skins. Next is coppering and then some adjusting and finally plating.

 

Cheers

Ian

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