Ian_Greenlaw

1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration

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Rolls must have gotten a boat load of cap screws they needed to get rid of?....... :rolleyes:

Even the rear end is a beautiful thing.

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Benefits of AACA Membership.

Hey All,

Started work on the operating mechanisem of the rear 1/4 vent wind out windows. Found that I was missing a small steel block that housed the pivot for the bottom of the window. I found one but one was missing. Got a friend of mine to get me small piece of steel and ten I drilled one hole then drilled and tapped the other hole. Found a spare counter sunk metal thread and cut it down to suit so should be ready to see if everything fits together in the car soon.

I also was able to just get a rivet in the top of the ignition switch mounting bracket ( only just as the bracket sits close to the top of the inside of the dash ) that was cut out at some stage, so now all I have to do is mount the bottom feet of the bracket and that will be another job done.

Ian

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Ian do you have the rubber for the front vent windows seller on ebay has right and left for $135.00 if interested let me know Frank

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hi Frank,

yep I have mine. I bought them 6 years ago on eBay for $80.... new ones.

Many thanks fir the offer.

Ian

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Ian--Well I finally found the steering column bracket for my 34 Plymouth PE and it is mounted with the open end up--I marked it with an arrow when I took it off. Attached is a photo and, while it is a different style than that on your Dodge, one can assume that the installation was similar. Looks like yours is mounted correctly. They really don't fit well, particularly with the rubber seal in place. SMBpost-89602-143142516065_thumb.jpg

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Righto Scott,

Heres a pic of mine and a pic of Ken Sobel's car. Why does somethings so small cause so much confusion ?

Anywho have a look and see what you think. Anyone else with a 34 want to chip in ?

Ian

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Hi Guys,

Did a trail fitting of the right side wind out quarter window.

Seems to fit ok so I inserted the pivot while the frame was upside down, then the steel bar that holds the pivot in place turned it over and tightened the retaining screw and the frame is ready to go in. New screws and also some polyeurathane to seal it in and tightened everything up.

I'll wait to it dries before shutting the window and everything was greased properly before assembly.

Cheers

Ian

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Hey all,

Cleaned up the horn workings. A resident electronic genius at work tested them and replaced Capacitors on both of them. A few more bits to clean up on the horns and the body can be reassembled.

Also mounted a steering column cover plate ( I think its in right ), then the rubber grommet, checked the dimmer switch and cleaned that up too. I kept dropping screws between the body frame and the inner cowl so instead of using my daughters skinny fingers I made up a rubber block that fitted nicely in the gap.

Cheers

Ian

Hi Ian

This may be the piece you are missing, fits under the columb and has area for brake and clutch pedal shafts and 2 screw holes that secure to firewall, notice small indent on both sides fits floor board..

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Hi Ian

This may be the piece you are missing, fits under the columb and has area for brake and clutch pedal shafts and 2 screw holes that secure to firewall, notice small indent on both sides fits floor board..

I have also started making block off plates, all types if any one is looking I am doing these on the cheap exact copies, unpainted or primed up to customer I have as yet to determine costs but they will be cheap, they include block off for steering colmb, plate,( right or left hand drive ) under colmb blocking plate,( as pictured here, as well as e- brake block off plates, along with other needs. let me know if anyone needs .

I also do wood working as in roof frames, Have patterns for both 33 plymouth 2 door as well as 34 Dodge 4 door again they will be cheap in price but not quality, Thanks

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Edited by knobless (see edit history)

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Is that the original one for the handbrake ? I haven't got to that area yet and was wondering what to do there.

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Is that the original one for the handbrake ? I haven't got to that area yet and was wondering what to do there.

yes, Ian original

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what's the one in the third picture for ? I don't recognise it.

I have to check the one under the steering column to see if it will fit but from memory mine looks off centre.

ill take some shots over the weekend if it looks different.

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what's the one in the third picture for ? I don't recognise it.

I have to check the one under the steering column to see if it will fit but from memory mine looks off centre.

ill take some shots over the weekend if it looks different.

Ian

The third picture came with parts from 33 plymouth coupe, sold the original pcs. and just made up some spares, I'll have to see , I know it has the same floor board bend as the rest of them so it is a block off for something...the guy who bought it knew. I should have ask ed him,,,oh well more research.....

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Ian

The third picture came with parts from 33 plymouth coupe, sold the original pcs. and just made up some spares, I'll have to see , I know it has the same floor board bend as the rest of them so it is a block off for something...the guy who bought it knew. I should have ask ed him,,,oh well more research.....

It looks to fit the Starter area as a block off?? still checking around, a few more plates...

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what's the one in the third picture for ? I don't recognise it.

I have to check the one under the steering column to see if it will fit but from memory mine looks off centre.

ill take some shots over the weekend if it looks different.

Found it Ian,,, it the block off plate for 33 plymouth steering columb.......

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Edited by knobless
add info and picture (see edit history)

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Hey all,

Haven't been slacking off, just doing about 10 different things at once. Started feeding the wires through the headlight stalk as well as the horn wires. I pulled apart my headlight, cleaned up the bolt support brackets, got my repro horn brackets I had made, put a new grommet in and installed both headlight buckets. Happy with the result and even used a few flannelette pillow cases to protect them which fit perfectly.

I'm making a new floor plate that goes around the handbrake lever that Steve ( knobless on this forum ) was good enough to sent me a picture. Again mine was non existent so don't know what happened to it.

Cheers

Ian

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Hey all,

Haven't been slacking off, just doing about 10 different things at once. Started feeding the wires through the headlight stalk as well as the horn wires. I pulled apart my headlight, cleaned up the bolt support brackets, got my repro horn brackets I had made, put a new grommet in and installed both headlight buckets. Happy with the result and even used a few flannelette pillow cases to protect them which fit perfectly.

I'm making a new floor plate that goes around the handbrake lever that Steve ( knobless on this forum ) was good enough to sent me a picture. Again mine was non existent so don't know what happened to it.

Cheers

Ian

While you have the steel out Ian, maybe a few new splash aprons too....finished the tough one just the easy one left to do, a little filing and fine tuning, some primer and paint them up.....

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While you have the steel out Ian, maybe a few new splash aprons too....finished the tough one just the easy one left to do, a little filing and fine tuning, some primer and paint them up.....

Here are a few more photos, the hydraulic punch works good to remove alot of material at once......

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Hi Steve,

my word....you do good metal work !!! Hydraulic Punch too......I have a hacksaw, tin snips and a Dremel.....not quite the same.... I'm lucky as my splash aprons are in excellent condition, powder coated and ready to go.

Ill post a few pics of my handy metal work when I'm finished, that way I can embarrass my self even more ! ha

Ian

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Finished my plate for the floor. What I did was I used this old no standing sign. Marked the pattern I needed based on Steve's photo ( thanks Steve ). To get the arc approximate I traced around a washer drilled the holes and wacked it in the vice and then bent to the correct angle. A coat of etch primer and the Gloss Black it came up looking ok. You'll probably agree best use of a no standing sign !!! Also cleaned up a couple of the trim mounting timbers and was able to put one in as the other window isn't fitted yet.

Cheers

Ian

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Finished my plate for the floor. What I did was I used this old no standing sign. Marked the pattern I needed based on Steve's photo ( thanks Steve ). To get the arc approximate I traced around a washer drilled the holes and wacked it in the vice and then bent to the correct angle. A coat of etch primer and the Gloss Black it came up looking ok. You'll probably agree best use of a no standing sign !!! Also cleaned up a couple of the trim mounting timbers and was able to put one in as the other window isn't fitted yet.

Cheers

Ian

Good job,Ian

Also any more pictures of the rear wood (timbers) I can't remember removing these on mine, so maybe I can get an idea of size and shape from your photos,

on a lighter note: does this mean if I travel through an area missing street signs, should I take it this is most likley an area where alot of old car restorer's live. haha....

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You are not the only one to use street signs .. I saw a documentary that included a Ferrari made just after the war had ended ... on the inside of the aluminium panel was a large road sign ... due to the shortage of material, the workers would steal them at night ... at least it was not that one on your garage that said "1934 Dodge Parking Only "

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