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1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration


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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, so today was "why the hell don't these indicators work" day !

Absolutely dead. Started with the flasher unit and found I had the L and the P terminals back to front....fixed that and finally I had the ticking noise from the flasher unit. No lights but the flasher was ticking. I actually had a quick look on Utube and found a guy installing a similar one on a 1950 Chev but what he said led me off to check. He said the switch assembly had to be grounded on the steering shaft. My shaft was painted and I had a rubber surround on the clamp to protect the paint work. I rigged up a temporary earth wire and I have lights ! I didn't want to have an earth wire screwed to the side so I pulled apart the unit and at the bottom you'll see a mounting screw. Again connected a temporary earth wire to check and this worked fine. Made up an earth wire and hid it in the base opening where the rest of the wires came out. Again set up temporary wires to the whole lot at everything worked except the two front indicators were swapped around. Got under neath the dash and found the wires that went to the front and cut, swapped and rejoined them. So now I've got to a point where only the front indicators are not working and this is only because of an earth problem. I do have earth where the bumper bar iron spacers are so I'll have to remove the bumper bar and make sure there is an earth contact all the way to the indicators.

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Your absolutely right that 90% are ground issues.

Not sure if I posted where I got my front indicators from. ....my neighbour had a really big skip in his yard and I asked him if I could chuck a couple of old printers in it. Sure, no problem he said but he'll be away for the weekend. Anyhow I turfed the printers in the skip and something caught my eye in reflecting the sun. Dug it out and it was an indicator....new from the looks of things and it had a rather large body which suited the shape of the headlight. Not wasting any time I jumped in the skip to search for the second one ( hoping they came in pairs ). Sure enough, I found the second one under a few pot plants and grass. Again looked new. Gave them a bit of a polish and put them away until I needed them. When I went to install them, stamped in the orange part was "Harley Davidson - Made in the USA". Worth hopping around in someones skip. Who knows what else was in there !

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18 minutes ago, Taylormade said:

What, exactly, is a skip

A Dumpster, a large garbage container.

 

I love it that the OP called this a "Body Off" restoration.  I cannot see how you can have a frame off restoration as most people refer to it..  To get to the frame you need to remove the body.😊😊😊

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FRONT fender (sidemount) installation: looks as if I may do this solo .. can you provide as my advice as to a safe and good fitting?  ... I may have to do this alone .. so wanna be careful 

 

my radiator shell is chromed and painted and the grill is ready to install 

 

maybe a few pointers !

 

tx .. les 

 

 

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Hi Les,

From memory I had my radiator installed first and I remember undoing it to get the fenders to sit properly. I don't think theres any trick to it but I did have a lot of flanelette sheets for coverage and protection while I was working around the car. Sidemount ? not 100% sure what your referring to. Post some pics .....I love pics !!

 

Richard....Sorry I should remember we have different terminology for things....like blinkers and indicators. My son called me a "Bin Rat" for rummaging through the "Skip"

 

Anyhow, my brother came over yesterday and we set about reinstalling the fuel tank. Blocked everything off and put a bit of fuel in it and swished it around. Only leaked from where the fuel guage mechanism is mounted. Removed that and thought I'd better make a new gasket. Cut one out and punched holes in it. I probably didn't need it but I put a very slight smear of aviation gasket maker on the top and bottom of the gasket and then screwed into place. Took a while to get the tank back in as I had to drop the exhaust but we go there in the end.

 

After that we tackled the front indicators as they wern't working. We did know it was an earth issue. The powder coating on the bumper bar irons were causing a non contact. Ground a ring around where one of the packing washers sits and after a few tries worked as it should. Funny thing was by doing that it must have grounded the front bumperbar so the other indicator work straight away.

 

Overall a few more things off the list. Next electrical thing to sort out are the horns then apart from turning over the engine thats the bulk of it done.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Been a little frustrating over the last week or so. Tried to install the rear 1/4 window garnish mold and found that when the upholsterer made the side pieces that run from the front to the rear of the car they just didn't curve down enough and there is a gap above the garnish mold. Also the window winder hole was made too big so he's been back and removed them and remade them. When I got them back he made to top too short and you could see the tacking staples so back they went again. Got them back again and refitted and this time one of the anchor lugs was in the wrong spot causing it to bow. Also he didn't adjust the height at one end so its covering over half the weathercord. Back they go again....hmmmmm.......they just don't listen sometimes. Anyhow I'm hoping to get them back this week coming and try again.

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32 minutes ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:

Thanks guys,

Still got a lot of problems to go.....

My wife gave me an ultimatium.......move the Dodge stuff out of the loungeroom for the Christmas Tree or else !!!

The nerve of some people !

Just throw some Christmas gift wrap around them....tag that says “from Santa to a very good boy“...good to go 

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Started working back on the rear wheel brake pistons and backing plates. The stainless resleeving looked new so did everything else except the poor old pistons. I couldn't get the bench grinder scotch-Brite wheel Matt suggested so I went with the super fine steel wool. They actually polished up really well....bugger of a job but very happy. Reassembled the brake cylinders and used the Stat-O-Seal washers Taylormade suggested so now they are ready to reinstall.

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Thanks Matt,

I'll give them a try.

 

 

Ok guys, I'm after a bit of advice.

There are ends of two countershafts protruding at the rear of the gearbox. I'm leaking transmission fluid from these. Even with the car not running at the moment, there are still some patches of fluid on the concrete. Can these be sealed ? ( I'm praying I don't have to remove the gearbox as last time it nearly gave me a hernia ! )

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I tried everything under the sun and never got this area totally leak free.  Several pages on my Daphne restoration thread dealing with this problem and the frustration involved.  Now it seeps slightly, but once I’m driving around - who knows?  Aside from machining groves in the case to take o-rings, I couldn’t figure any other way to stop leaks.  I took my tranny out three times trying to fix it.

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1 hour ago, dmgoulet said:

I have the same trans leak on my 35 KC.  Not sure if a higher weight gear oil than 90w would help or cause other issues.   Hopefully someone will have a viable solution

 

Did the recommended lubricant change between '33 and '35?

 

The Instruction Book for my '33 Plymouth PD calls for 110 weight in summer. 90 weight in winter. From experience, it shifts better with the heavier weight lubricant.

 

I have enough of a leak on my rear main seal in the engine that it would be hard to tell if the transmission itself were leaking. . .

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3 hours ago, dmgoulet said:

The 34-36 KC/LC service manual calls for SAE 160 for summer and SAE 90 for winter. 

 

I currently have 90 in mine right now. 

 

Wonder if anyone has tried 160!

I don’t know where you can get 160. I use 140, available in my local stores, in mine.

 

I almost never have an occasion to drive it in below freezing temperatures but it can be quite warm sometimes so I figure the lubricant they called out for summer is best.

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Thankyou for all the responses, this really helps. Interesting to note a number of people saying that they have the same issue and it still leaks.

I will try a heavier fluid to see how it goes.

 

A number of years ago I remember somewhere, someone writing about this. This guy basically made two cups from washers ( large hole to go over the shafts and a thin edge ) he built them up until it covered the shaft and then made a cap from a round piece of metal. Used a oil impervious compound to join the washers and to "glue" it in place ( I assume he drained the fluid to a level so it wouldn't leak ) and then he applied the compound. The end result was the shaft ends we completely covered and and fluid that leaked stayed within these "cups".

 

Just another angle on a problem.....food for thought.

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3 hours ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:

 

Got one brake backing plate on, completed cylinder and shoes.......and finally that spring.

Must be a trick to it.....surely.

Just have to adjust the shoes then move on to the next one.

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Looking good Ian. 
I normally put the spring on both before putting them on the backing plate. Fit it to the bottom adjusters first , then put one side onto the cylinder and then you can pull the other side across easily and slip it onto the opposite side of the cylinder. 
then the pins can be fitted in. 
That’s how I do it , someone might have a better way. 

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9 hours ago, Mattml430 said:

Looking good Ian. 
I normally put the spring on both before putting them on the backing plate. Fit it to the bottom adjusters first , then put one side onto the cylinder and then you can pull the other side across easily and slip it onto the opposite side of the cylinder. 
then the pins can be fitted in. 
That’s how I do it , someone might have a better way. 

 

Hmmm. I'll have to try it that way next time. I just picked up a brake tool at my local auto supply, not really sure of the name, but it does the job of removing and installing the springs.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 12/20/2020 at 5:51 PM, Ian_Greenlaw said:

OMG Matt, you need one of those brake spring thingo's.....took all of 10 seconds to put the spring on.......my most treasured posession now !

I’ll keep an eye out for one Ian. Where did you pick yours up. It sounds like a great tool. 

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On 12/20/2020 at 5:51 PM, Ian_Greenlaw said:

OMG Matt, you need one of those brake spring thingo's.....took all of 10 seconds to put the spring on.......my most treasured posession now !

Rich came bearing gifts on Thursday Ian and bought me a set of pliers so I might have to pull mine apart just to see how well they work. Cheers Rich. 
 

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