• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

17 Good

About dmgoulet

  • Rank
  • Birthday 08/10/1962

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Maumelle, AR

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi all. Trying to determine the correct height the rear of the engine/trans is supposed to be (factory height). The crossmember in this picture was made from splicing parts from several sources and to replicate what was seen in a photo. The problem I am having is that the floorboards are hitting the trans. I am trying to determine if trans needs to go lower or cab needs more shimming. Does anyone have original crossmember installed that they can measure the distance from bottom of frame to bottom flat on crossmember?
  2. Hi all. Still having a bit of trouble deciding if the rear of the engine/trans is too high, or if I need to raise my cab up some more. Since my dad and I made the rear crossmember from pieces obtained in the distant past from members here, I am wondering if anyone can provide me some simple measurements. I just put a straight-edge (my 4' level) in the groove of the under-side of the rear crossmember. From that, I measured the distance between the bottom of the frame rails to the top edge of my straight-edge. I measured 1-5/8" on both sides. Can anyone possibly confirm if I am too high or too low? Here is an image of what it looks like. Only problem is that the top of the transmission is too high that the metal plate that screws to the wood floor board wont sit flush against the board. any help is greatly appreciated. Dennis
  3. Haven't posted in awhile. Been working on required maintenance on the house and my 97 Dakota was demanding some attention. I have been collecting pieces-parts for the instrument cluster. It's now fully functional, but needs a few finishing touches... paint the bracket, find some material that goes on the guages that the instrument lamp shines through, and make some cork rings to seal the glass lenses. I couldn't find the exact ignition coil lock switch, but found one that I modified to work, and it came with the door lock cylinder with matching keys. I delled a hole thru the cluster bracket and welded a steel screw to it thru the hole to hold the key switch in place On my agenda is to get my broken loose fuel tank baffle repaired and have the tank sealed...luckily it is actually in good structural condition. Also am still twiddling with aligning the front end body panels/parts (front fenders, radiator and shell, running boards and skirts, and the hood and cab) it's close, but something is up because I cannot get everything to meet up with all mounting holes without oxerflexing some things... and I want to get the electrical hooked up so I can fire the motor...I have been cranking it with the starter to keep the oil pushed around.
  4. I spent some of my childhood in Pyatt, AR, and went to UofA Fayetteville for two years. now in Little Rock area. Good to hear you found your frame number. I got my build sheet from Chrysler a couple years ago. I didn't have any tags on the firewall, only the engine number from the registration... the original engine is long gone, but I got a 230cid and gathered correct mounts, bell housing and trans..
  5. Hi OzarkDodgeMan. I have a 35 as well. it took me awhile to find my number on the frame. it is on the left side of the frame just aft of the rear shackle of the front spring. I had to use a flashlight in a dark garage to find any identify the numbers because the impressions were light. What part of the Ozarks?
  6. Finally something new to share on my project. I purchased a wire harness from RIWire and carefully pulled the correct portion into the cab. In an earlier post, I indicated I found headlight bucket connectors and the bucket wire harness. I rebuilt the sockets and connectors. They are alive!!!!! Parking lights and headlights work
  7. I did notice the numbers on the connector, and I recall seeing the numbers on the wiring schematic in my manual. I doubt I can remove these terminals from the ends of these wires as they are crimped on. I have purchased the semi-spherical ones, but haven't located the flat ones.
  8. well, I managed to find some beat up headlight buckets on ebay that had the connectors still in place. I bought it them for under 60 bucks. I pulled the connectors out and gave them a bit of cleaning. Got some headlight bucket wiring from Mac's as suggested, Now that I have all the parts needed for this, I can start restore of the headlight buckets, harness, and reflectors. I bought some lenses that are in great shape too. Ever so slow progression.
  9. Question: Does anyone have a source or an alternative for the headlight bucket to wire harness connectors? I found a picture of what they probably look like that I have included. Thanks, Dennis
  10. Thanks Dave. I couldn't find that picture that you posted
  11. It will be hard to make out, but on the driver side of the frame between the rear shackle of the front spring and the running board front bracket you will/should find the frame serial number stamped. numbers are about 3/4" tall and (for me) very hard to spot.. I've attached pictures of my gauges.
  12. My 35 truck (series 2) dash is different. glove box door and faux door on driver side is rounded ends
  13. I have been getting some things completed. Clutch fork boot: Made a snap in ring from some thick sheet metal and found a pattern online to make the boot using g black leather. Welded holes and mating surfaces on clutch and brake pedal linkages and re-drilled/machined to operate smoothly. My dad machined a new shaft for the pedals and machined pedal bushings to solid-up the pedals. I fabricated some new front cab wood mounts from 7/8" ash board. Using two on each side (stacked) gave me a 1/4" space between the top of the frame and the lower lip of the cab. Using 1/4" oak shims at the rear cab mounts squared things up. It does look like my rear crossmember is holding the trans up too high into the cab... I will need to lower it... which means my clutch torque shaft pivot bracket will need to be modified. The joy of it all!!! I did crank the engine over via the foot starter pedal... good to see that I got that right. cranking without plugs in to circulate oil has revealed a couple oil leaks... I think it is the front and rear oil pan gaskets that are not sealing well. I'm still fitting body parts and learning how to do body work. There are some things I will need to get a professional to do... the lower cab sheet metal is rusted away... I know patch panels are available... Finances are holding me back for now. 20160605_133430.mp4
  14. I have the lacing on the cab surface, but not on the radiator shell. I have a few screws spun in at a couple locations to account for it though