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dmgoulet

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About dmgoulet

  • Birthday 08/10/1962

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  1. Hi Dave. Sorta chuggin' along. Having knee issues so motivation is low. Some time ago I scrounged up NOS wheel hubs and drums already riveted together... I was having trouble adjusting the brake shoes. I thought maybe the drums were out of round. It ended up the drums were not concentric with the hubs. Brought them up to my dad as he has a buddy that has a lathe to turn them. I have been slowly gathering replacement skins for the bottom edges of the cab. The areas for and aft of the cab doors are not all that great. I've been slowly tackling some if the body work... I will probably need to seek someone who has the proper tools for some of the issues. I've been firing up the motor about once a week for about 15 minutes. I've noticed my oil pressure is always 15psi...I tried another mechanical gauge which showed the same thing. It's either the pump or the pressure regulator... the mo tg or only has about 10k miles on it as I drove the truck around awhile before the trans case cracked...which is when I parked it and started the restore... that was almost 20 years ago.
  2. Hi all. Thought I'd submit an update since it has been awhile. I've been watching alot of videos on body panel repairs so that I might be able to tackle the more complicated repairs. Started working on the running board skirt. It wasn't all that bad to begin with, but did need attention. I still have a bit more to do on it. Notice the ripples: Most of the ripples worked out: Got these running boards from a vendor on ebay. These are very sturdy and the rubber seems very thick.
  3. How badly damaged is the fuel tank? I cut mine open to re-secure the baffle. It hadn't had fuel in it for more than 10 years so I wasnt concerned about exploding. There are some after-market tanks that would fit, but didnt see any with filler tube in correct location. 16" artillery rims would be correct for your truck. I'm looking for some for mine. Door latch springs can be found at Bernbaums or Robert's Motors, or even on ebay. I've seen photos of 35 KCs with different headlight buckets. I opted for Depress Beam ones as they seemed to be on most of the photos I found.
  4. I'll start with clamps. If I have issues I can weld
  5. Definately cheating a bit here. I didnt have original exhaust hangers or the brackets, but several available images to fashion some. I didnt have proper tools to make the hanger that wrapped around the exhaust pipe, but this will work. I have to make a tailpipe hanger. I believe there is enough clearance from the fuel tank.
  6. here is a section from the Parts List manual. It lists a lining (5 yards) as swell as anti-squeak (5 yards)... which seems excessive... so maybe it was thinner and wrapped around the tank? I figured to just put it on the inner side of the support strap and at the locations where the tank met the crossmember. what was there before was pieces of bicycle inner-tube on the straps only... which was surely not what was supposed to be there. There is no heat shield. I've not dove into the exhaust yet. some of the pictures I have in my manuals show the exhaust going down the right side of the frame and exiting the rear between the tank and the outer frame rail.. but my tank goes from rail to rail... so maybe it needs to route to the right some more to exit out the right rear?!! Dennis
  7. Its been awhile since I last posted... My fuel tank had a problem that required resolution. The baffle had broke loose and sheered the float shaft off the sending unit. I did find a replacement sending unit, but had to figure out what to do about the baffle. The tank had not had fuel in it since before 2005, and I had washed it out when it was emptied and left open all this time. A couple weeks ago I took the plunge and cut open a 6" flap in the top of the tank. Inside the tank was quite clean. I re-positioned the baffle back in its original location and did several spot welds at the two lower corners where it met the tank wall. I knocked out what dents/dings I could and slowly spot welded the flap to close the tank. some scrubbing and sanding to clean up the outside before some primer and a jet-black final coat. I found some 1" felt 'anti-squeak' strips (for a Jeep fuel tank) and cut them to sized I thought i required. I used some 3M Super 77 adhesive to attach them to the underside of the frame, and surfaced one side of the tank straps with the felt. Tank is finally in the frame after at least 16 years. Need to get a fitting to attach the fuel line to the tank. I am missing one of the bulk-head connectors at the front right where the fuel line goes from the outside of the frame to the engine area. I found a different bulk-head connector that will work, but its a mismatch and quite ugly. I need make fuel lines that go from point to point rather than used pre-fab lines pieced together. Luckily I have the spring-like protector for the part of the fuel line where it runs the outside of the frame at the front wheel.
  8. The 34-36 KC/LC service manual calls for SAE 160 for summer and SAE 90 for winter. I currently have 90 in mine right now. Wonder if anyone has tried 160!
  9. I have the same trans leak on my 35 KC. Not sure if a higher weight gear oil than 90w would help or cause other issues. Hopefully someone will have a viable solution
  10. Hi Jolly_John. I am certain this is the crossmember just forward of the bell housing on the truck you indicated.. you can see it in the image here.
  11. I just checked my measurements. from the center of the top bolt of the crossmember to the bottom of the frame is 3-1/2", and from the bottom edge of the crossmember to the the bottom of the frame is 3-1/2" for a total of 7"... based on your measurement, I am 3/8" too high in the frame. To fix easy, I will cut the end plates off and create new ones to allow me to lower the crossmember. thanks much.. this will give me the clearance I need where the top of the trans is up too high where the metal floor plate mounts to the wood floor board.
  12. Awesome! Thanks much. This should allow me to confirm if mine is somewhat correct
  13. Awesome. Thanks much. Nice truck.
  14. I have asked in the truck forum, but got similar responses. This additional photo is from the service manual and my serial number falls in t bgg e range for this style. I am 100% positive I'm on the right style, just dont have correct dimensions somewhere. Also including actual partial pictures of my frame and crossmember
  15. I have a 35 KC pickup with the frame identical to the one shown in this attached photo (not mine). The rear crossmember shown supporting the bell housing was missing from my truck, lost when a V8 engine was installed in the 60's. I managed to scrape up pieces to make one, but I'm not certain that it is correct. The trans will hit the floorboard. Either the trans needs to go down, or the cab needs to go up. If I raise the cab, it creates alignment issues with other body parts. I figure if someone else has the same frame and crossmember configuration, maybe they could provide a measurement. I'm hoping someone could provide a measurement by placing a straight edge in the underside 'U' of the crossmember and provided the distance from the top of the straight edge to the bottom of the frame rail. Thanks in advance.
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