Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by dmgoulet

  1. The 34-36 KC/LC service manual calls for SAE 160 for summer and SAE 90 for winter. I currently have 90 in mine right now. Wonder if anyone has tried 160!
  2. I have the same trans leak on my 35 KC. Not sure if a higher weight gear oil than 90w would help or cause other issues. Hopefully someone will have a viable solution
  3. Hi Jolly_John. I am certain this is the crossmember just forward of the bell housing on the truck you indicated.. you can see it in the image here.
  4. I just checked my measurements. from the center of the top bolt of the crossmember to the bottom of the frame is 3-1/2", and from the bottom edge of the crossmember to the the bottom of the frame is 3-1/2" for a total of 7"... based on your measurement, I am 3/8" too high in the frame. To fix easy, I will cut the end plates off and create new ones to allow me to lower the crossmember. thanks much.. this will give me the clearance I need where the top of the trans is up too high where the metal floor plate mounts to the wood floor board.
  5. Awesome! Thanks much. This should allow me to confirm if mine is somewhat correct
  6. Awesome. Thanks much. Nice truck.
  7. I have asked in the truck forum, but got similar responses. This additional photo is from the service manual and my serial number falls in t bgg e range for this style. I am 100% positive I'm on the right style, just dont have correct dimensions somewhere. Also including actual partial pictures of my frame and crossmember
  8. I have a 35 KC pickup with the frame identical to the one shown in this attached photo (not mine). The rear crossmember shown supporting the bell housing was missing from my truck, lost when a V8 engine was installed in the 60's. I managed to scrape up pieces to make one, but I'm not certain that it is correct. The trans will hit the floorboard. Either the trans needs to go down, or the cab needs to go up. If I raise the cab, it creates alignment issues with other body parts. I figure if someone else has the same frame and crossmember configuration, maybe they c
  9. Slow but steady work in progress. Adjusted the TC-4301a regulator using the Autolite generator/regulator manual. Prior to adjusting, I was only getting 6.5 volts at the battery. At high idle, just below 8v, and low idle, down to 7v. I rebuilt the generator myself, and I needed to be sure it actually worked. Luckily I succeeded. Another checklist item completed. While running the engine, I noticed it idles rich. High idle for 15 minutes consumed almost 1/4 gallon of fuel. Low idle for same timeframe consumes about the same. I rebuilt the carb a few months ago, but there mu
  10. Try Rhode Island Wire. I bought a complete wire harness and it had these connectors on it. They sell pieces parts as well.
  11. Hi all. Trying to determine the correct height the rear of the engine/trans is supposed to be (factory height). The crossmember in this picture was made from splicing parts from several sources and to replicate what was seen in a photo. The problem I am having is that the floorboards are hitting the trans. I am trying to determine if trans needs to go lower or cab needs more shimming. Does anyone have original crossmember installed that they can measure the distance from bottom of frame to bottom flat on crossmember?
  12. Hi all. Still having a bit of trouble deciding if the rear of the engine/trans is too high, or if I need to raise my cab up some more. Since my dad and I made the rear crossmember from pieces obtained in the distant past from members here, I am wondering if anyone can provide me some simple measurements. I just put a straight-edge (my 4' level) in the groove of the under-side of the rear crossmember. From that, I measured the distance between the bottom of the frame rails to the top edge of my straight-edge. I measured 1-5/8" on both sides. Can anyone possib
  13. Haven't posted in awhile. Been working on required maintenance on the house and my 97 Dakota was demanding some attention. I have been collecting pieces-parts for the instrument cluster. It's now fully functional, but needs a few finishing touches... paint the bracket, find some material that goes on the guages that the instrument lamp shines through, and make some cork rings to seal the glass lenses. I couldn't find the exact ignition coil lock switch, but found one that I modified to work, and it came with the door lock cylinder with matching keys. I delled a hole
  14. I spent some of my childhood in Pyatt, AR, and went to UofA Fayetteville for two years. now in Little Rock area. Good to hear you found your frame number. I got my build sheet from Chrysler a couple years ago. I didn't have any tags on the firewall, only the engine number from the registration... the original engine is long gone, but I got a 230cid and gathered correct mounts, bell housing and trans..
  15. Hi OzarkDodgeMan. I have a 35 as well. it took me awhile to find my number on the frame. it is on the left side of the frame just aft of the rear shackle of the front spring. I had to use a flashlight in a dark garage to find any identify the numbers because the impressions were light. What part of the Ozarks?
  16. Finally something new to share on my project. I purchased a wire harness from RIWire and carefully pulled the correct portion into the cab. In an earlier post, I indicated I found headlight bucket connectors and the bucket wire harness. I rebuilt the sockets and connectors. They are alive!!!!! Parking lights and headlights work
  17. I did notice the numbers on the connector, and I recall seeing the numbers on the wiring schematic in my manual. I doubt I can remove these terminals from the ends of these wires as they are crimped on. I have purchased the semi-spherical ones, but haven't located the flat ones.
  18. well, I managed to find some beat up headlight buckets on ebay that had the connectors still in place. I bought it them for under 60 bucks. I pulled the connectors out and gave them a bit of cleaning. Got some headlight bucket wiring from Mac's as suggested, Now that I have all the parts needed for this, I can start restore of the headlight buckets, harness, and reflectors. I bought some lenses that are in great shape too. Ever so slow progression.
  19. Question: Does anyone have a source or an alternative for the headlight bucket to wire harness connectors? I found a picture of what they probably look like that I have included. Thanks, Dennis
  20. Thanks Dave. I couldn't find that picture that you posted
  21. It will be hard to make out, but on the driver side of the frame between the rear shackle of the front spring and the running board front bracket you will/should find the frame serial number stamped. numbers are about 3/4" tall and (for me) very hard to spot.. I've attached pictures of my gauges.
  22. My 35 truck (series 2) dash is different. glove box door and faux door on driver side is rounded ends
  23. I have been getting some things completed. Clutch fork boot: Made a snap in ring from some thick sheet metal and found a pattern online to make the boot using g black leather. Welded holes and mating surfaces on clutch and brake pedal linkages and re-drilled/machined to operate smoothly. My dad machined a new shaft for the pedals and machined pedal bushings to solid-up the pedals. I fabricated some new front cab wood mounts from 7/8" ash board. Using two on each side (stacked) gave me a 1/4" space between the top of the frame and the lower lip of the cab.
  24. I have the lacing on the cab surface, but not on the radiator shell. I have a few screws spun in at a couple locations to account for it though
  • Create New...