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1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration


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Don’t know about craftsman...... just too damn fussy for my own good !

any idea where the little brackets come from I posted a bit earlier ?

if it makes you feel better I’ve have 3 operations on my spine and my knees are starting to give me grief.

 

i actually went to see my upholsterer today to book my car in. Found out he retired....but still goes to the factory every now and then. I’m hoping he’ll meet me to go over what I need done on the car.

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The little brackets mount on the inside of the door frame to limit the upward travel of the window.

There are 2 posts that are part of the window frame just below the vent windows that are stopped from going higher by the brackets.

They are just below the vent window and are 2 per vent window.

The narrow part goes under and the wider part screws in at topside.

 

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Spent a full day on the car today. Cleaned up the garage, tightened all the body to chassis bolts. Put the last pieces of felt in the window frames. Cleaned up the glass holders for the front windows and got rid of excess polyurethane. Ran a final bead the length of the window. Almost completed the windows now. The last shot is the original fabric covered strips that sit in the window frame where im attaching the felt to.

 

Cheers

Ian

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Hey all,

Found two little brackets that mount inside the front doors to buffer the window frame when being wound down. Rubber buffer was hard and missing one. Found a similar one at the local hardware store and cut it down to suit. Wire brushed the rusty brackets and tapped new holes as the original screws were too small. Should fit a lot better now. Also cleaned and painted the 4 little brackets I couldn't work out what they were for until another member helped me. Painted 2 Windlace retainer brackets too. Cleaned and taped, then painted the window channel bracket. Also taped up both doors ready to install the finished window and frame assembly.

 

Cheers

Ian

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Got a bit further again today. Found all the screws to hold the door lock mechanisms in place. Cleaned them up and painted them. Sprayed the front of the lock that has the barrel lock fitting on it so you may see theis when the car door is open so I thought I'd give it a shot of black. The grub screw to hold the barrel in place is missing so I thought I'd have a crack at making my own one. which fitted in the little hole at the front of the door. Mounted both door locks and installed both door handles I restored earlier after reshaping the rubber pad the escutcheon pad sits on.

 

Cheers

 

Ian

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Hey all,

One of those job you really don't want to do incase you stuff something up.

Inside the doors are the anti rattle rollers. Unfortunately the one that is not removable unless you use force is the one I have to replace.

Took a while but bent the holding clamp away from the holding pin so I could get access to the brass sleeve.

I didn't have a lot of rubber tube to choose from which was the same size so I cheated a bit.

I covered the brass shim with blue heat shrink. This fitted inside some brass tube I had. I then covered this with some red heat shrink which then fitted inside some small aluminium tube which then fitted exactly inside the rubber tube.

Long process but it worked a treat.

Slid it on the holding pin and without breating the holding tab bent them back in position. I'll touch the paint up later but at least they have been repaired.

Probably easier if I'd done it when I stripped the door down, but you live and learn !

 

Cheers

Ian

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I was cringing all the way. I don't know what I would have done if they broke.

Mind you, it took all my effort to bend them the damn things were tough little buggers.

I used a solid core mouse pad to protect everything while I was working on it which helped.

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Back to work on the car again. After I cleaned up the window winding mechanisms I covered them in axle grease. Unlike the door lock mechanisms these literally went in first try. A couple of the machine threads needed a bit of fixing but everything went to plan for once. Next job it to make sure the window glass slides inside the frames I refelted.

 

Cheers

Ian

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Now with the window winders in place time to get back to the windows. One of those jobs you take a deep breath. I'm bending the Bailey Channel and using the window frame and a spray can as the template. Little bit of neatening up but got them bent correctly. I then got my window and removed all the masking tape etc...and cleaned them up. Looking good so far. A few minor adjustments with the window felt lower down and the windows fit in the frames. I think the end result looks pretty good and excited to try and get them in the car. All I have to do now is get them back in the door and attach the winders. I've had a few goes but not going in as planned. Time for a rethink.

 

Cheers

Ian

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  • 2 weeks later...

Bit more to report. Cleaned up the spring loaded keepers for the doors and they seem to be in fairly good condition. I'll fit them later when I get a bit of time.

Tackled the Driver's side front window. Trying to get it in place proved to be a tad difficult. You have to go in on an angle from the inside, slowly maneuvering it from left to right and adjusting the vent window handle so it all fits. Finally got the window winder mechanism in the right slots and got to the last vent window arm assist piece and it dropped into place....yay....one down one to go.

Tried to fit the Bailey Channel bit it wasn't having it. It seems the channel im using is too thick or maybe its just new and not glued in place properly. I'll have to sort this out later.

 

Cheers

Ian

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got to look at the door lock. I had it rechromed a number of years ago and I guess all the much from the electroplaters got inside the cylinder. Soaked it in a bath of penetrine and gradually over a week started to give a bit. Kept going and day by day a little more movement until the key went all the way in and movement was freed up. Compressed air into it to dry it out then loaded it with graphite. Now got a smooth action so I'll install it when I get a minute.

 

Cheers

Ian

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Not sure that graphite is the right lubricant. It will promote galvanic corrosion. It looks like your cylinder is made of steel or similar; mine is Zamac die-cast and corrodes at the drop of a hat. You might be better to wash it out and put some silicon spray in there, the same stuff you use on your segmented garage door wheels etc.. Or some Dry Glide.

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Quiet day today as its the Grand Final long weekend. We have a public holiday for a footy match and one for a horse race ( Melbourne Cup ). Anywho.....Decided to get out some of the items I had rechromed. Decided to check them out and give them a polish to make sure they were ok. Can't wait to fit these little beauties !

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Little bit more to report. Many moons ago I had my shocker restorer guy make me up new arms as mine had almost rusted through. Bought some new rubbers and the local suspension shop up the road gave me the retainers. Had to use a clamp to hold the arm down while I fitted them but in the end very happy with the result.

 

Cheers

Ian

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  • 3 weeks later...

Another milestone reached. I'm now working on the car almost on a daily basis and trying to get it ready for the upholsterer. One of the sticking points I've had was the wipers. Not having any original parts the previous owner came upon two 6v electric wiper motors. First step was to sort out a similar looking switch. This meant creating a bracket and mounting the switch leaving enough room for the motor. Also as the car is now 12 volt the voltage has to be stepped down to 6v for the motors. Bought a switch and using a thick piece of aluminium mounted this to a suitable spot, bolted it up and made sure it would protrude enough through the header panel. Of 4 wiper motors had to make sure I had the best ones so pulled each one apart and cleaned all the old grease out of them and replaced with new grease. I then took them to a friends house who is our electronics wiz at work and he bench tested them. After buying some step down converters he set about temporary wiring them up. Adjusting the voltage as we went so the little boards didn't overheat. We found running at 5v did the trick. Next step was to get everything home and before I mounted them check they fitted properly and only protruded out of the body enough to hold the wipers which I had. I bought a couple of types of arms years ago so decided to use one of these sets. I found I had to cut both the outer housing shaft and the inner shaft. Someone had already had a go at the outer shaft and this actually proved helpful as this was the perfect length. So I had to pull the front off the motors again to remove the inner shaft. With Dremel in hand and a deep breath cut the first one. I did leave two nuts on to help with the threads but after gently on the wire wheel the actually came up pretty good. I noticed one of the sharft gears was missing half of some of the teeth so pulled a spare one apart and swapped out the inner shaft. Got everything back together again and time to cut the inner shaft to suit the wiper arms. Another deep breath and cut these two. Again not a bad result. Both wiper motors have a similar length. I made up a bridging wire between the two motors and wired in the momentum switch so when the motors are stopped I can adjust one side into position to match the other side. Next step was to mount the two motors after the wires were connected which was the shortest part of the process. after everything seemed to fit I grabbed the header panel and held it in place with one screw. Everything is hidden and all you'll see is the pull switch knob which looks similar to the original one. Problem solved.....tick another one off the list !!

 

Cheers

Ian

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey all,

More work completed over the weekend. Decided it was time to get the other window in ( left side ).Toook a bit of wiggling but finally got it in. The hard part was getting the little tab into the window winder channel. Finally got it in and decided I'll give the Bailey Channel a go. It kept getting stuck 3/4 the way down. After a few choice words and a bit of struggling I found that there was a rivet used to hold the channel gutter in place was jambing up the works. Gentrly prised the Bailey Channel away from the gutter and it slid into place. Next step was to glue the top  horizontal section and one of the vertical sections in place. The stuff I use takes 4 days to cure so I used all my clamps to hold it in place. Looks worse than it really is. Another milestone !!!

 

Cheers

Ian

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Well finally I may have got my two Threads sorted out. I had my original one "slow progress but getting there" and my older one "1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration".

I tried to get them merged so the older one went in front of the newer one. There was an issue with the "code" in the website and they lost my first thread. I then found out it had been fractured throughout this thread.

Bottom line is that if you went back to the start the body is in primer, then its painted, then back in primer....then back to when I bought the car.......but at least its all there.

I've asked to leave everything as it is otherwise I could lose my mind !!

Anywho........I'll keep on posting....and working on the car. My aim is to have it finished for the Motorclassica next year so I'm on it every chance I get.

Once the windows in the front are finished, the wiring is connected ( and the temp wiring disconnected ), steering wheel put on ( and the horn wiring ), freewheeling cable connected and the accelerator linkages sorted, dove tail spring loaded keepers are done I should be ready to take to the Upholsterer.

 

Does anyone have any tips in refitting those spring loaded dove tail keepers ?

 

Cheers

Ian

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Finished gluing the left side door then moved onto the right side door. Kind of ran out of clamps so zipped down to the local shop Hardware Store and grabbed some more. In 4 days time I'll be able to remove them and glue the "inside" door ends. I have a bit of tidying up to do due to the fabric in the Bailey Channel pulls across the curved areas so I'll try and glue these back in place. Had a call from the Upholsterer, the original seats and door panels ( what was left when I bought the car ) is being picked up on the 14th of November and the car is going to them on the 28th November. So basically I have 4 weeks to do a zillion things on the car......no pressure !! 

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Hi Steve,

Yeah, I’m not sure how it was fitted previously. There was a rivet right at the top of the door on the outside that I believe went through the frame into the bailey channel. Have a look and see if there is a little hole top of the door Frame in the channel and in the centre. See if I’m right or not.

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on my 33, the lacing goes over the screw holes front the top middle hinge all the way down the sides covering all holes. 

 

mine was original and to get to the screws I had to tear off the lacing. it will be re-glued and applied when I am done putting engine back in car. 

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On 11/6/2019 at 11:49 AM, Sactownog said:

on my 33, the lacing goes over the screw holes front the top middle hinge all the way down the sides covering all holes. 

 

mine was original and to get to the screws I had to tear off the lacing. it will be re-glued and applied when I am done putting engine back in car. 

 

3 minutes ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:

Would you mind posting a photo ? Its just interesting to see.

 

Cheers

Ian

 

On my '33 Plymouth there is enough slack on the lacing that you can pull it aside to get to the screws that hold the radiator shell to the radiator. Since the lacing is held on with split rivets that is about the only way you can do it. I'll try to get a photo or two.

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7 minutes ago, ply33 said:

On my '33 Plymouth there is enough slack on the lacing that you can pull it aside to get to the screws that hold the radiator shell to the radiator. Since the lacing is held on with split rivets that is about the only way you can do it. I'll try to get a photo or two.

1930 DC is  the same. The split rivets are supposed to be black enamel finish.

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Exactly the same as my 32 Dodge Brothers.  The old lacing pretty much fell apart during deconstruction.  I put the new lacing on the radiator shell with split rivets- it has to be done before inserting the radiator.  The new lacing is flexible enough to peel back - as in ply33’s photo- and install the mounting bolts.

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On 11/7/2019 at 8:49 AM, Sactownog said:

on my 33, the lacing goes over the screw holes front the top middle hinge all the way down the sides covering all holes. 

 

mine was original and to get to the screws I had to tear off the lacing. it will be re-glued and applied when I am done putting engine back in car. 

The Master Parts List shows only split rivets #104449 to hold the lacing to the radiator shell - no glue. Those rivets are oval head split rivets in black enamel finish, 9/64 x 3/8".

 

This is the tool to seat them properly. If you just flatten them, the legs break off.

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