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  1. Good Job Matt, it will be as good as new before you know.
  2. Absolutely right Mike, the early gearbox had the lever for gears and brake at the rear of the box, the later cars at the front. The early speedos were clock face (DB were Marked “LH”) and later drum. The drive at the gearbox also varied in length as development went on. Some stuff you can mix and match and some stuff you cannot. Jack, both the white and black face speedos come up on ebay from time to time, are not cheap and are not usually sold working. I have a black face spare for my 19 tourer and a white face spare for my 17 Roadster both left hand. Please be aware that not all are the same the DB was LH the ford was RH.
  3. The early DB car speedometers were Johns Manville Left Hand rotation, very early were white face then changed to black faced. Perhaps this is the “Mansfield referred to?
  4. I have to say despite the required elbow grease, polished alloy really sets an engine off.
  5. Hi Dereck, The diameter of the collar shaft is one inch, the diameter of the gear shaft is one and 3/8ths inches. Nice photo. I like individuality so you have the wheels how you like. 😊
  6. Hi Dereck, I have a very nice leather bound parts list costing a little more than NZ$99 so hopefully we can make good use of it. I will have a look at an engine I have in the garage first thing tomorrow to see what I can discover that might help. I also have a spare bare crankshaft so I just had a look at it. I am not sure why but the second hole is not shown in the parts book, nor is the pin. This hole is 0.2 inches (1/5) an odd size however the keyways do the driving so it can only there to prevent movement fore and aft. Keep asking the questions. 😊
  7. Keep in touch Dereck, if you need information someone here will have it. On that note no, the pin is straight. Part number 202 if anyone has any NOS. Sadly, no dimension information in the parts book.
  8. Some good points raised here, although perhaps some clarification. The oil pump is gravity fed, the pump is a sliding vane type with a helper spring to keep the vanes in touch with the chamber sides. The pipe size from the sump to the pump is 3/8” The line into the block and oil gauge is 1/4” The chamber referred to is the outer crescent in the above photo. Critical to the operation is the face of the bottom cover shown in photo 2. It can be pitted due to moisture sitting on this plate during the “rest period” in a shed. As pointed out, a gasket fitted to seal this, if too thick, can create a gap so oil can bypass. Also mentioned is that this is a volume pump and the pressure gauge indicates flow rather than a pressure to be achieved, the pressure is created by introducing a restriction into the flow however if the ball and spring regulator (the restriction) is fitted and you have no pressure showing then I would take this to be a concern. If the pump cannot put out enough pressure to lift the ball off it’s seat and show even one psi then the pump is not performing as it should and points to check would be the aforementioned cover plate clearance, the vane wear and the spring tension. In my experience frequent oil changes to maintain the lubrication qualities and remove the contamination not removed by an oil filter as in modern cars is just ahead of greasing regularly to help provide a longer life for our charges. just my thoughts.
  9. “Cheer up” they said, “it could be worse” so I cheered up and sure enough, it got worse.
  10. Egge pistons are fine as are JP, as Alan said local is good sometimes. A point to think about, the situation regarding freight in general is bad and getting worse so the time delay combined with very high freight charges could make the JP more attractive.
  11. That is why we are on here, all of us, to share our knowledge, our experiences and our information. (Remember we are not always right) Some of you have skills that we can only dream of, some have had “this problem” before. We help, we share so that all can have a car as good as we can afford to get it.
  12. Hopefully this illustrated parts breakdown and instructions will help. Follow the directions as written in the Stewart instructions booklet issued by the Detroit lubricator company. Good luck.
  13. If you have removed the carburettor and the vacuum tank is empty it is helpful to prime the system manually by filling the fuel bowl in the carburettor. This will usually be enough to get the car started and a minute or two of running will provide enough vacuum to fill the vacuum tank. Apologies if this has already been done.
  14. Do you have fuel in the bowl? Is the float at the correct level?
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