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Minibago

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Everything posted by Minibago

  1. Absolutely right Mike, the early gearbox had the lever for gears and brake at the rear of the box, the later cars at the front. The early speedos were clock face (DB were Marked “LH”) and later drum. The drive at the gearbox also varied in length as development went on. Some stuff you can mix and match and some stuff you cannot. Jack, both the white and black face speedos come up on ebay from time to time, are not cheap and are not usually sold working. I have a black face spare for my 19 tourer and a white face spare for my 17 Roadster both left hand. Please be aware that not all are the same the DB was LH the ford was RH.
  2. The early DB car speedometers were Johns Manville Left Hand rotation, very early were white face then changed to black faced. Perhaps this is the “Mansfield referred to?
  3. I have to say despite the required elbow grease, polished alloy really sets an engine off.
  4. Hi Dereck, The diameter of the collar shaft is one inch, the diameter of the gear shaft is one and 3/8ths inches. Nice photo. I like individuality so you have the wheels how you like. 😊
  5. Hi Dereck, I have a very nice leather bound parts list costing a little more than NZ$99 so hopefully we can make good use of it. I will have a look at an engine I have in the garage first thing tomorrow to see what I can discover that might help. I also have a spare bare crankshaft so I just had a look at it. I am not sure why but the second hole is not shown in the parts book, nor is the pin. This hole is 0.2 inches (1/5) an odd size however the keyways do the driving so it can only there to prevent movement fore and aft. Keep asking the questions. 😊
  6. Keep in touch Dereck, if you need information someone here will have it. On that note no, the pin is straight. Part number 202 if anyone has any NOS. Sadly, no dimension information in the parts book.
  7. Some good points raised here, although perhaps some clarification. The oil pump is gravity fed, the pump is a sliding vane type with a helper spring to keep the vanes in touch with the chamber sides. The pipe size from the sump to the pump is 3/8” The line into the block and oil gauge is 1/4” The chamber referred to is the outer crescent in the above photo. Critical to the operation is the face of the bottom cover shown in photo 2. It can be pitted due to moisture sitting on this plate during the “rest period” in a shed. As pointed out, a gasket fitted to seal this, if too thick, can create a gap so oil can bypass. Also mentioned is that this is a volume pump and the pressure gauge indicates flow rather than a pressure to be achieved, the pressure is created by introducing a restriction into the flow however if the ball and spring regulator (the restriction) is fitted and you have no pressure showing then I would take this to be a concern. If the pump cannot put out enough pressure to lift the ball off it’s seat and show even one psi then the pump is not performing as it should and points to check would be the aforementioned cover plate clearance, the vane wear and the spring tension. In my experience frequent oil changes to maintain the lubrication qualities and remove the contamination not removed by an oil filter as in modern cars is just ahead of greasing regularly to help provide a longer life for our charges. just my thoughts.
  8. “Cheer up” they said, “it could be worse” so I cheered up and sure enough, it got worse.
  9. Egge pistons are fine as are JP, as Alan said local is good sometimes. A point to think about, the situation regarding freight in general is bad and getting worse so the time delay combined with very high freight charges could make the JP more attractive.
  10. That is why we are on here, all of us, to share our knowledge, our experiences and our information. (Remember we are not always right) Some of you have skills that we can only dream of, some have had “this problem” before. We help, we share so that all can have a car as good as we can afford to get it.
  11. Hopefully this illustrated parts breakdown and instructions will help. Follow the directions as written in the Stewart instructions booklet issued by the Detroit lubricator company. Good luck.
  12. If you have removed the carburettor and the vacuum tank is empty it is helpful to prime the system manually by filling the fuel bowl in the carburettor. This will usually be enough to get the car started and a minute or two of running will provide enough vacuum to fill the vacuum tank. Apologies if this has already been done.
  13. Do you have fuel in the bowl? Is the float at the correct level?
  14. This was posted on this forum previously but the author’s name escapes me. My apologies. I hope it is useful for you. The fine adjustment enriches the mixture when turned clockwise and leans the mixture off when turned anti clockwise.
  15. Once worn whether it is the pin, the gear or the crankshaft the ultimate failure is catastrophic so replacement is important. The oil pump is very small so fitting a filter having a 40 micron restriction is probably not a good idea. If using the correct oil “Not the modern car synthetic oil” then a filter is not necessary. Modern detergent oils are not suitable for these engines. I would not run a car with zero oil pressure. The pressure is set by the ball and spring located in the fitting coming off the block, in this example just behind the water pump. The ball and spring are available new from Myers early Dodge parts. Low oil pressure could be due to the pump being worn, the ball and spring losing tension, incorrect oil or greater than recommended gaps in the bearing caps on the mains and big ends. The oil feed is via splash from a rail coating the inside of the bore (lower) and the crankcase from above and a sort of scoop on the big ends splashing from a raised trough in the sump to help assist in feeding the bearings. I have four psi on my 1917 on start up at idle and when very hot at idle three and a bit rising to four when driving. I change my oil regularly between rallies / tours so maybe every 1,000 miles. Just my thoughts.
  16. I take it this is for those of us who don’t know if we are coming or going? 😂
  17. The multi-plate clutch is normally pretty good to use but perhaps lack of use is to blame. View through the inspection plate on the top of the bell housing to see if oil contamination has affected the plates. I understand there are several methods suggested to try to clean this off without dismantling. Play in various points can also be a factor, I have seen considerable wear in the universal joint at the back of the gearbox cause snatching also differential play won’t help. Limited spares are tucked away home garages so perhaps local members can assist, ask, you may well be surprised. Each state has a solid group of enthusiastic DB owners most willing to assist where we can. The wheel spokes can be checked for security (looseness) and damage but unless loose and/or rotten this design has remarkable strength. The timber will shrink if allowed to dry out so a coating of paint (original) or marine varnish (a more modern preference) will help protect what you have. The early wire spoked wheels were mostly favoured by “townies” as the general roads of the day were cart tracks badly rutted and cut up by the horse and cart traffic and the wire spokes would break much more easily than the wooden version.
  18. No words to say to make things better, be sure you have the support here to carry out the repairs. As mentioned before, just glad to hear no one was seriously injured.
  19. Hi Tristan, The input shaft has a spigot fitting into a bearing at the flywheel end and a bush in the input shaft fits over the output shaft at the other, it passes through the front bearing in the gearbox on the way. Yes there would be end float but no, moving back and forth is not normal. The intermediate gear you refer to is the main culprit for the noise with a combination of wear on the square drive input shaft combined with wear on the gear square drive. This gear works hard in first and second, you will find the noise goes away in top as this gear fits inside the direct drive gear on the output shaft. The correct oil for these gearboxes is very thick almost liquid grease, we use Penrite 250 here in Australia. If thin oil is used wear would be accelerated. Yes, I would recommend the Mechanics Instruction book but it is not as detailed as a workshop manual for a modern car.
  20. Hold the bus, Perhaps the hole on the left is for the choke not a clock?
  21. There is a rubber seal that sits on the lower glass like this. I think I got mine from Tom and Cindy Myers but it should be available from Peter Jackson in Sydney I would think.
  22. Yes, the same Cheney although he is no longer with us. The S.A. Cheney history is fascinating, it just shows what you can do with skill and bucket loads of persistence and a strong self belief.
  23. Hi Matt, Well researched Mark, as I understand the roadster had a lower windscreen (although my 1917 Roadster is normal) and this was fitted to my 1919 Tourer by the very short original driver (ex Canada Cycles sales manager) and yes it has a shorter top screen by about two inches. This creates a number of problems for taller folk, (5 feet 6 & 1/2 😂) with the hood up your head touches the roof and the top rail is right in your eye-line. I found a mangled set of full height posts and had them straightened and tilted back the same as the short set. I purchased a couple of windscreen frames of the correct height but sadly not the correct width from the US and cut and shut to make a good one. Turned out much more user friendly to drive. I believe the door tops were originally metal. There was a clock in mine originally but I changed the dash back to original so the clock, not working, is available. Well done for helping finish another DB car Matt.
  24. The one I posted was for the earliest Dodge Brothers cars sold through Cheney in Adelaide. Cheney was the Sales Manager for Ford Dealer Duncan and Fraser before becoming the very first Dodge Brothers dealer in Australia starting in 1916 and when he left, the company became Waymouth Motors. He moved to Melbourne in 1920 and took up the Chevrolet dealership. I thought you might like to make a plate for Canada Cycle and Motor Co using the similar layout.
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